Builds Won a '74 40 on a coin toss... (1 Viewer)

[ginmtb]

That looks like an old team sensor to me as well. Odd that you ended up with two of them...

I unplugged and will drive today to see if anything goes haywire. Hope I can use that spot. Thanks!

 

[ginmtb]

Sorry here are more product details:

 

[Honger]

This ended up being a pretty expensive setup but it does indeed look purdy. I had also bought a PEX inline 1/4 turn valve which was a much cheaper and easier solution which simply goes inline with the hose. So now I have that piece laying around in the parts bin. But here is the solution:

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Need this because the right angle doesn't clear the bolts of the engine block.

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This I found on MUD can't remember who posted but it is from Napa auto parts.

So was this just for burping or is this also where your heater hot water supply comes from?

 

[ginmtb]

So was this just for burping or is this also where your heater hot water supply comes from?

It shuts off the hot water from circulating into the cab so will help a little bit with temperature in cab... So they say. Still warm in there but I guess every bit helps! So the latter of your response.

 

[ginmtb]

I unplugged and will drive today to see if anything goes haywire. Hope I can use that spot. Thanks!

Okay out and about and I don't notice any issues with it unplugged. I wonder if it is frozen in place and the PO couldn't get it out so decided to put the other one in. Weird that a second wire was run though...

So I just need to order a little adapter and some SS hose for the oil pressure gauge and I should be all set for the gauges. Okay to use PTFE hose for the oil pressure gauge line? SS braided type.

 

[ginmtb]

Well no cruiser work but got the garage all cleaned up and organized. Just need one more bay to put the 75 in... :|

 

[ginmtb]

Well had to have the exhaust reworked as my free exhaust job rubbed/melted a hole in the shock cover and in certain situations rubbed against my tire. And the exhaust smell was pretty strong in the cab with the back open. Got a referral from a friend and the guy did a great job! If you are near Livermore, CA go to Livermore Muffler - Steven is a cool dude and is a one man shop. Nice to support someone like that.

Also I got my oil gauge hose setup so hope to get the gauges installed this weekend. I've figured out how to be able to keep all my stock gauges working in addition to the mechanical ones. Pretty spendy setup for the oil line but definitely more bombproof than the whimpy plastic hose they provide and better than copper too (at least that's what I'm telling myself to justify the extra cost). I'm doing a bulkhead adapter so no hoses actually pass through the firewall - it is a fitting that bolts down to the firewall. Only requires a 3/8" hole which I happened to find buried under a bunch of silicon.

 

[ginmtb]

Finally got the gauges installed! Took forever because my stainless hose solution above did not work. So I ended up getting the old tried and true copper tube. Much cheaper and easy to work with. Turned out nicely, the paint is a very good match and the double sided tape is holding so far. We'll see after some heat and the classic bumpy cruiser ride. Just need to hook up the temperature sending unit and this project is done (barring any unforeseen disasters knock on wood).

 

[Honger]

Finally got the gauges installed! Took forever because my stainless hose solution above did not work. So I ended up getting the old tried and true copper tube. Much cheaper and easy to work with. Turned out nicely, the paint is a very good match and the double sided tape is holding so far. We'll see after some heat and the classic bumpy cruiser ride. Just need to hook up the temperature sending unit and this project is done (barring any unforeseen disasters knock on wood).

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Yeah, that settles it. I'm putting gauges there. =)

 

[ginmtb]

Turns out my doubled sided tape didn't hold up so I ordered some VHB double sided tape that is still very thin (20 mil). Hopefully that will work. Not a lot of surface area to tape it down so needed some stronger tape.

I still need to connect the temp sensor just need a block of time to do that because it will be messy as I'm going to lose some radiator fluid.

Gotta get that done tonight as I'm heading over to @Racer65 's house to try out a couple of things... One might be floor mat related...

 

[Honger]

Gotta get that done tonight as I'm heading over to @Racer65 's house to try out a couple of things... One might be floor mat related...

Cruel...

 

[ginmtb]

Cruel...

Don't tell @Racer65 I smuggled out a photo of the prototype mat... I was sworn to secrecy but needed to share with MUD.

And some porn too:

Amazing how much more refined his 80 is vs. my 74. Actually sounds and rides like a car! Someday maybe...

 

[Racer65]

LOL!

 

[ginmtb]

I decided after seeing @Racer65 's OEM hood and window frame latches I decided to put mine on as well. I was concerned with rust and was waiting to paint them but who knows if or when that was going to happen. Might as well enjoy them (they were sitting in the locker doing nothing). Also I replaced the rubber windshield frame pads too. Man those were a pain had to cut the older rubber off and then unbolt the rusted out nuts and bolts. Was hoping they would sheer but of course none did...

 

[ginmtb]

So I'm not sure what is going on with my oil gauge - it worked upon first connection but after I shut it off no luck. Their tech support suggested there might be an air bubble in the system and to bleed the hose. I did that and then it worked the first time but then stopped working. I'm thinking the gauge is bad. Have requested a new one be sent. We'll see... Does that pressure seem right at idle? Seems low to me but could just be because of the gauge scale.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I never noticed 44's oil pressure dropping at idle, before the rebuild. Now, after the rebuild it drops down at idle, just like my tundra. I'm not sure if it's as low as 18-20 because I only have the stock gauge in 44 and in the tundra... But, it's real low at idle and comes up to the normal range when not idling.

But, it doesn't take a lot of oil pressure when it's idling at 650rpm.

Do you still run the stock oil gauge too?

How does/did it compare at idle?

My GUESS is, you are fine, Mike... Think about how the dissy shaft turns the oil pump... Turns slow at idle... Turns faster and faster as you accelerate.

You could always pickup another gauge and see what it shows... Maybe rent from an auto parts (money back on return) or buy one and return it...

 

[ginmtb]

Okay good to know pressure is probably a non-issue. I do have the stock gauges still connected and I get good pressure readings for the oil always past the half way mark and an occasional drop to about 1/2.

The biggest issue is it doesn't read pressure anymore. Twice it has done that to me - worked on initial install but then after shutting engine down it doesn't read after restarting. Then I bled the line and same thing happened. Works initially but then on subsequent starts no Bueno. So the plan is to have them ship a replacement and test that one out. Kind of a pain since I've taped up my custom bracket and will now have to do it for a third time. Hopefully it is just a defective gauge.

 

[TheHardWay]

Bet you hadn't planned on becoming a test engineer.

 

[78fj40mg]

So I'm not sure what is going on with my oil gauge - it worked upon first connection but after I shut it off no luck. Their tech support suggested there might be an air bubble in the system and to bleed the hose. I did that and then it worked the first time but then stopped working. I'm thinking the gauge is bad. Have requested a new one be sent. We'll see... Does that pressure seem right at idle? Seems low to me but could just be because of the gauge scale.

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Nice gauge cluster!

 

[ginmtb]

Yay finally have a working oil gauge! They sent me a replacement and worked like a charm!