B y r o n

I'll help with a little translation: "Hello Good morning I have a 1978 BJ40 that I need to remove the radiator for service. I thought it was enough to unscrew 4 bolts but it seems to be much more complicated than that. I looked in the technical...

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones. I installed OME lift springs and don't seem to need shims. I did replace all tie rod ends and set the toe-in to 1/8". I've had my FJ-40 into triple digit speeds and no problem with wonder running 33-12.5x15...

Did you simply do a visual inspection or did you remove the bolt and wire brush everything before putting back together? Oxidation can form on the bolt threads, chassis and the eyelet on the ground cable. Once that happens you don't have a...

There are several areas that use rubber weather stripping, what area is this supposed to be used in?

Doesn't look like anything stock I have seen. Give that label a good wipe and see if that gives some more information. Given the other attached cables, it almost looks like something for a CB radio device or the likes.

Grab your circuit diagram for your year and the make some copies. On one of the copies sketch in any changes you have made. This might point you to the logic issue. The light switch has a bunch of connections.

I vote for the pull, flush/clean and possible reseal.

Received this from Georg at Valley Hybrids Installed Was then able to torque the harmonic balancer nut (253 ft-lb). Tightened belts and installed fan.

Maybe the information here will help.

It's been a bit since I posted so thought I'd throw this up. I got the new LED bulb from SUPERBRIGHTLEDS installed last night. It's crazy how something so insignificant can make such a difference. The green glow of "LIGHTS" on that switch...

What are the numbers on the amber bulb? Should be the bulb type/size and also output/wattage.

All you should need is an adapter for the two different thread pitches.

Why not cap it, it have nice thread ready for that

Talk about shine!

Make sure you have your clutch pedal set per the FSM specifications. This should help ensure you are not causing the slave to move to far.

A buddy of mine turned this one up. Its been hiding in storage since the late 70s. Its not a west coast survivor, but certainly one for the eastcoast.

This looks like it will be a great project.

You have to make up for the ice cubes! :)

This sounds like there is a problem with the fuel pump. Pump working poorly but fills the carb fuel bowl. Drives fine until the bowl is emptied and it starts to buck. You pull over and while fuel use is low at idle the bowl fills again. You...

Info at this link shows different part number for front and rear. Without knowing how much lift you are going with not sure which part number is correct for your application because they will mount front or rear, valving should be different.

You said it started by being slow until stopping and then blowing fuses. If the motor or linkage began to bind that would slow things down. When things froze the resistance of the motor would more than likely blow the fuse.

With a quick search I found this. There's a link or download to a manual in this thread. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fairey-od-help-needed.1295387/

Just remember that the body mounts will compress with the weight of the body and tightening the mounting bolts. I would take this into account before cutting anything.

I'd call Dakota Digital

Actually, mine is a '73 that I bought in '76 and insured through state farm. I've never bothered to ask what they value it at. I look at insurance as protection for me so I don't have to pull money out of my pocket in the event of an accident...