Help with 3-link on '99 4-Runner (1 Viewer)

[JLHEEPETR]

I installed the studs for the 3rd with a little more high strength Loctite.

The studs tightened and looking pretty.

Tommorrow, spindles, hubs, FJ60 rotors, IFS calipers, Longfields, and the high pinion third.

 

[EWheeler]

Looks like you have a solid pile of parts there. Nice documentation, look forward to watching the rest of the build.

 

[Mace]

You did all that and did not opt for the marlin inner axle seals??

You using custom inner axle shafts that have a secondary seal at the diff end?

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Yeah, didn't get the Marlin seals. I have another set of inner seals already so after two sets fail I'll finally get the Marlin stuff.

And yes, the Diamond housing has a second set of seals just either side of the 3rd to keep gear oil out of the axle tubes. The shafts are from Longfield but cut to length and splined by Diamond to custom length.

 

[Mace]

custom inners then?

 

[JLHEEPETR]

si senor, hopefully that will not prove to be a problem. The axles will be warrantied but finding trail spares will be near impossible.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Got back to the build today. Here is the high pinion diff with Yukon 5.29s and ARB waiting its' turn.

The new Longfields.

Here's the new Longfield next to the outer cv shaft on the IFS I'm running now. Yes it's broken...

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Next step is to test fit the new Longfields to make sure there are no clearance issues. Slide the Longfield into the spindle.

Go ahead and mount the spindle on the knuckle with a few bolts. Spin the Longfield back and forth and feel/listen for any contact inside the knuckle.

I got lucky with mine and had no contact either side. If you did you would have to grind some material from inside the knuckle ball. Here are the new Longfield inners.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

After checking the fit, I joined the Longfield outers and inners. The retaining clip fought a bit but nothing a few drops on a block of wood didn't cure.

Here are the new inners and outers complete.

Before I put the axles in I went ahead and packed a little grease into the knuckle because I wouldn't be able to get back there with the axles in.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Before sliding the axles in go ahead and grease the splines. You wouldn't want it dry and neither do your seals.

From here I went ahead and slid the axles in.

I didn't put the axles in all the way because I hadn't installed the 3rd yet but I wanted to be able to support the end of the axle shaft coming through the inner seal. After it got through I stopped just inside.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Next I went ahead and ran a bead of Ultra Black around the diff flange. I did complete circles around the studs to avoid leaks later.

Here the diff is dropped in.

I went ahead and snugged the studs. The directions say to wait to torque them for about an hour.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

After the 3rd was in I drove the axles in with a deadblow. It helps to turn the drive flange on the diff back and forth to line up the splines.

The spindles can be installed next. First the gasket, then spindle, dust shield or eliminator (pictured) and seal.

Here they are going on.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Install the bolts and lock washers and torque to 38 ft/lbs.

All bolted up.

Time to install the FJ 60 rotors on the hubs.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

First step is to bolt the rotors to the hubs.

Next up, drive the wheel studs in. I used the brass drift and a bfh. You can also pull the studs in with the lug nuts and a spacer.

The hubs and rotors, ready to go.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Pack the inner wheel bearings with grease.

Insert them into the back of the wheel hub. I had already changed the races, sorry no pics.

After the bearing is in the race, drive in a new hub seal. A 4x4 block of wood worked well for me.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Here's the new seal pressed in and greased.

Before you slide on the hub go ahead and grease the seals on the spindle.

Next, slide on the hub.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

Now pack the outer wheel bearings.

Slip the outer bearing over the end of the spindle and into its race.

Up next are the spindle nuts and star washers.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

First the spindle washer and then a nut.

I used a method I read about online. I torqued the spindle nut to 43 ft/lbs and then spun the hub forward and backward about five times each. After every set of spins I would re-torque the spindle nut. Afer about three cycles, I loosened the spindle nut and re-torqued again, this time to 23 ft/lbs. This should give you a preload between 3 and 8 lbs.

I measured the preload from a wheel stud. Again using the pull scale I got a preload pull of just over 8lbs. I called it good as I want to be on the higher end of tolerance for large tires.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

After the preload was set I installed the star washer and another spindle nut. I torqued this nut to 23 ft/lbs as well and then folded the star washer tabs either way to lock the two nuts together.

It's time for the aisin hubs. First up the gasket.

Followed by the hub body.

 

[JLHEEPETR]

I used anti-seize on the manual hub cone washers as well.

Follow the cone washers with locking washers and the 12mm nuts.

Torque the nuts to 23 ft/lbs.