Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build
- Thread starter Dusty
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Is it done yet? 
- Thread starter
- #284
Is it done yet?
no
Im working on it in my mind 24/7.
But actually using the tools much less. all the linkage should be done by end of week. finished up the rear spring buckets tonite. need to finish the rear axle side track bar bracket. if the moon is right and I can get some help I may have her at surf and turf
still need:
1.track bar bracket
2.rear trackbar
3.shocks and axle side shock mounts (would also like to do some extended rear frame side shock adapters like clownmidget and other did-wish I could buy a pair)
4.hook up brakes
5.bolt all the hubs/calipers/front spindles on
5.hack away some more body
thats it. she is ready to go.
all the rest is just details that will take years
so come stay at my house for a few days so we can finish this thing. you swim with my kids, do the dishes, clean the house, and man me phone and ill
6 guys, my visa, and the local Napa could finish her in a weekend.
i need to get her all put together and rolling on the springs I have before I can order the right size springs (unless these are perfect) from cristo and I need the springs on before I order the right length 7100 bilsteins
Last edited:
LOL! I know that feeling! My wife is expecting, so I know that my projects timeline will slow down a lot!
- Thread starter
- #290
update
welded up the rear brackets. finished the trackbar:
1. press bushing out
2. cut end off old trackbar
3. the oe trackbar fit snug (had to tap w hammer) into the 1.25" id dom (1/8" wall). used me new tube notcher to make a clean notched tube.
4. weld it up
5. press bushing back in
final product has oe bushing at frame and 7/8" shank q1a heim at axle (3/4" hole)
And this radius arm in the rear with rubicon express bushings is so much easier to cycle than the front radius I pulled off. I wonder how much the track bar has to do with it up front. with all the times I messed with the factory suspension I was continually discouraged by how bound up the track bar was.
note that the spring perches are not fully welded as I want to check the spring fitment first
welded up the rear brackets. finished the trackbar:
1. press bushing out
2. cut end off old trackbar
3. the oe trackbar fit snug (had to tap w hammer) into the 1.25" id dom (1/8" wall). used me new tube notcher to make a clean notched tube.
4. weld it up
5. press bushing back in
final product has oe bushing at frame and 7/8" shank q1a heim at axle (3/4" hole)
And this radius arm in the rear with rubicon express bushings is so much easier to cycle than the front radius I pulled off. I wonder how much the track bar has to do with it up front. with all the times I messed with the factory suspension I was continually discouraged by how bound up the track bar was.
note that the spring perches are not fully welded as I want to check the spring fitment first
- Thread starter
- #291
also finshed the front tierod (1.25 id x 1/8" wall)
and started reassembling the front end. the yukon chromolies disapointed a little. the driver side inner flanges were cut so incredibly sloppy they wont go into the arb. And of course I had to grind off some of the shaft ears to get them through the spindle. I hope Randy's ring and pinion will pony up and give me a new shaft. if not I may need some help breaking this shaft so I can use the lifetime warrantee. And it is not the arb. this inner spline looks like it was cut by a high school kid with a chop saw
the yukons look massive next to a 30 spline shaft
and see the 35 spline drive flange. I wish they had cone washers. never thought I'd miss the yota cones but they always held for me. I feel like ill be tightening these things with every fill up. notice they have no cover. will need to make something-damn.
used these sealsit dana 60 outer acle shaft seals for the front end.
and started reassembling the front end. the yukon chromolies disapointed a little. the driver side inner flanges were cut so incredibly sloppy they wont go into the arb. And of course I had to grind off some of the shaft ears to get them through the spindle. I hope Randy's ring and pinion will pony up and give me a new shaft. if not I may need some help breaking this shaft so I can use the lifetime warrantee. And it is not the arb. this inner spline looks like it was cut by a high school kid with a chop saw
the yukons look massive next to a 30 spline shaft
and see the 35 spline drive flange. I wish they had cone washers. never thought I'd miss the yota cones but they always held for me. I feel like ill be tightening these things with every fill up. notice they have no cover. will need to make something-damn.
used these sealsit dana 60 outer acle shaft seals for the front end.
Last edited:
Not sure how you are going to like the radius arms in the back. They will lift the vehicle at the frame attachment when you accelerate hard, or when your front tires are up on a ledge and more weight is on the rear. This will cause wheel hop. Atleast you won't need a rear sway bar though from the inherent bind. Should run very nicley on the road.
I would also recommend using 1 1/2" .25 wall dom for the tierod, unless your .120 wall tubing is chromoly and then it should be ok.
BTW, I have some 1.5" x .25" DOM in the shop. Let me know if you need some and I can go measure.
You sure do some quality work though!
I would also recommend using 1 1/2" .25 wall dom for the tierod, unless your .120 wall tubing is chromoly and then it should be ok.
BTW, I have some 1.5" x .25" DOM in the shop. Let me know if you need some and I can go measure.
You sure do some quality work though!
- Thread starter
- #293
Yea. if I could do a do over I may have just went with chevy leafs in the rear.
I already have a bunch of 1.25 x 1/4" wall dom. already welded the 1/8" wall stuff up. I need the 1/4" wall stuff to run the ram good and strong.
Brian you want to help me set up me brakes this sat?
Also there is hardly no room in the front on the axle side to run the shocks. the calipers are just too huge at turn and they get in the way. no room to run the shocks on inside of the links either. I think I will need to run the shock on top the links. this means i need to run rubber bushings up front. just add money
I already have a bunch of 1.25 x 1/4" wall dom. already welded the 1/8" wall stuff up. I need the 1/4" wall stuff to run the ram good and strong.
Brian you want to help me set up me brakes this sat?
Also there is hardly no room in the front on the axle side to run the shocks. the calipers are just too huge at turn and they get in the way. no room to run the shocks on inside of the links either. I think I will need to run the shock on top the links. this means i need to run rubber bushings up front. just add money
Saturday sounds good. Should I bring my double flare tool for the brake lines? email me at bwickert70@sbcglobal.net with the details.
- Thread starter
- #295
little update
brakes almost done
I have tried so hard to source some 76-78 cadi eldorado rear calipers so I could use their integrated ebrake. but they cant be found and I have tried everywhere. any leads? for now I have the 3/4 ton chevy calipers
also I now have the rubicon express rubber bushings on the front lowers at the axle side. i have done this so that i can run the front shocks to the lower arms
brakes almost done
I have tried so hard to source some 76-78 cadi eldorado rear calipers so I could use their integrated ebrake. but they cant be found and I have tried everywhere. any leads? for now I have the 3/4 ton chevy calipers
also I now have the rubicon express rubber bushings on the front lowers at the axle side. i have done this so that i can run the front shocks to the lower arms
Did ya check the parts stores?
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...w/+Hardware+-+Left+Rear+(Semi-Loaded)+-+Remfd
- Thread starter
- #297
built a new tierod out of 1/4" wall dom and found a matching tube clamp. need to set up the ram assist.
the front 1 ton calipers have a small c shape antirattle thing that sits above the allen bolt as shown. i cant find the spring anywhere. the local dodge dealer told me it was discontinued. anyone know where to find them?
the front 1 ton calipers have a small c shape antirattle thing that sits above the allen bolt as shown. i cant find the spring anywhere. the local dodge dealer told me it was discontinued. anyone know where to find them?
- Thread starter
- #298
That sucks.
Are these the springs you mean?
NAPAONLINE®
Funny thing is I bought a set from NAPA about a year and a half back and they were on the shelf. I'm surprised they're not listing a price.
Are these the springs you mean?
NAPAONLINE®
Funny thing is I bought a set from NAPA about a year and a half back and they were on the shelf. I'm surprised they're not listing a price.
- Thread starter
- #300
i had to buy a new spindle for the drivers side as i installed the bearings wrong on the rebuild.
also mocked up the shocks. fronts will be 21 inches compressed
rear will be 18.5 inches compressed if the rear axle bracket is no lower than the link brackets
also mocked up the shocks. fronts will be 21 inches compressed
rear will be 18.5 inches compressed if the rear axle bracket is no lower than the link brackets
