Help with 1 ton axle choice for fzj80 build

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That sucks.

Are these the springs you mean?

NAPAONLINE®

Funny thing is I bought a set from NAPA about a year and a half back and they were on the shelf. I'm surprised they're not listing a price.

fred you the man

i dont know why they couldn't find these. they are ordered from the napa in lemoore and will be ready for me tomorow

i hate the the hanford napa. they make you come in and pre pay for all olders
 
fred you the man

i dont know why they couldn't find these. they are ordered from the napa in lemoore and will be ready for me tomorow

i hate the the hanford napa. they make you come in and pre pay for all olders

Glad they could still get them. I figured they were not available anymore since no price was listed.
 
I would help you with the brakes, but I'm sitting in front of Starbucks in downtown Waikiki. :grinpimp:

If you need some caddy rear brakes with the integrated e-brake, let me sell you mine that are off the Dynatrac rear. Didn't need the e-brake on the buggy.
 
I would help you with the brakes, but I'm sitting in front of Starbucks in downtown Waikiki. :grinpimp:

If you need some caddy rear brakes with the integrated e-brake, let me sell you mine that are off the Dynatrac rear. Didn't need the e-brake on the buggy.

lucky bastard. I hope a jelly fish gives you a lap dance.

damn it. i just left lemoore auto and paid $350 for the calipers. these guys have been looking for a pair for 2 weeks. now they are looking for the e brake mechanical assembly for me (the arm piece that bolts to the caliper)

they are going to be pissed when I bring it back. What do you want for your cadi calipers? how about $200
 
Hnag on to your receipt for the calipers. Yo umay want to change your mind. If you find the ebrake levers, you then spend the next year trying to get the adjustedto hold your rig...and then once you finally get them dialed in, they'll come out of adjustment.
HAve you given any thought to any other ebrake options? Ayone make an xfer case brake for your case??? jus thiking out loud.

I just switched back to standard calipers...at a huge savings because of the above mentioned problems...
 
Hnag on to your receipt for the calipers. Yo umay want to change your mind. If you find the ebrake levers, you then spend the next year trying to get the adjustedto hold your rig...and then once you finally get them dialed in, they'll come out of adjustment.
HAve you given any thought to any other ebrake options? Ayone make an xfer case brake for your case??? jus thiking out loud.

I just switched back to standard calipers...at a huge savings because of the above mentioned problems...

upgrading (downgrading) to the cadi brakes wont take place real soon. the more i read on the topic the more hassel i find. truck must be ready to wheel by the 23rd of the month so the 1/2 ton chevy calipers will stay for now

i think a tcase brake would be cool. i was looking at the wilwood mechanical calipers recently
 
Yes, I have the bracket/lever. If you adjust them correctly and use the e-brake periodically they work fine. Not my first choice for rear disk brakes though. I think the explorer rear disk with hub style e-brake was the best.
 
just got em

new 2.0 fox emulsions.
got them from
off road engineering in lakeside cali


guy named michael randolph built them for me. I went with the fox vs the bilstein based on mikes recommendation. mike said that if i am going to do any shim adjustments on my own the fox shocks are easier to revalve.

i asked him to valve them to a heavy "like a 7100 bilstein 400/100 valving". so he supposedly did and gave me a chart showing me what shims he used. also gave me some extra shims to play with and some rubber bushings incase i want to run them vs the heims. price: $140 each. they were at my door 2 days after i hung up the phone.

i went with 14" travel front and 11" travel rear. i went kinda short on the rear as im only going to have 3.5" uptravel and so so my shocks wont hang below the axle. also am going to run plenty of limit strap on the rear

the front is going to be the working end. kinda opposite of the oe setup
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i know some don't like them, but for a pinch and needed to wheel, how about a pinion or t-case e brake?
 
just got em

new 2.0 fox emulsions.
got them from
off road engineering in lakeside cali


guy named michael randolph built them for me. I went with the fox vs the bilstein based on mikes recommendation. mike said that if i am going to do any shim adjustments on my own the fox shocks are easier to revalve.

i asked him to valve them to a heavy "like a 7100 bilstein 400/100 valving". so he supposedly did and gave me a chart showing me what shims he used. also gave me some extra shims to play with and some rubber bushings incase i want to run them vs the heims. price: $140 each. they were at my door 2 days after i hung up the phone.

i went with 14" travel front and 11" travel rear. i went kinda short on the rear as im only going to have 3.5" uptravel and so so my shocks wont hang below the axle. also am going to run plenty of limit strap on the rear

the front is going to be the working end. kinda opposite of the oe setup

I was wondering why he recommended the Fox 2.0 emulsions. I was told it is for light-duty applications, like sand cars, buggies, and light prerunners. Those are from these sources: friend who raced class 7, Fox's text, and the guy at Downsouthmotorsports who set up my 2.0 resi's. I would think that with your upsprung weight of your tires you plan to run and 60's under a heavy rig, that it be not under-valved, but just not enough shock. I know you may not be blasting down dirt roads or sand washes. I was in fact wondering if I should have gotten a 2.5" shock myself.

What valving numbers did he set you up with, if you don't mind me asking? I went 30/70 up front and 35/80 in the rear, and need to revalve to add some more rebound.

Not knocking your decision at all. I think it's a sweet, killer buildup and wonderful work with the welder:clap:.
 
I was wondering why he recommended the Fox 2.0 emulsions. I was told it is for light-duty applications, like sand cars, buggies, and light prerunners. Those are from these sources: friend who raced class 7, Fox's text, and the guy at Downsouthmotorsports who set up my 2.0 resi's. I would think that with your upsprung weight of your tires you plan to run and 60's under a heavy rig, that it be not under-valved, but just not enough shock. I know you may not be blasting down dirt roads or sand washes. I was in fact wondering if I should have gotten a 2.5" shock myself.

What valving numbers did he set you up with, if you don't mind me asking? I went 30/70 up front and 35/80 in the rear, and need to revalve to add some more rebound.

Not knocking your decision at all. I think it's a sweet, killer buildup and wonderful work with the welder:clap:.

i dont know if the 7100's are tougher or not. they both have a 5/8" shaft and a 2" body. im not using the shock to support the body like a coil over would be doing. if i bust them il certainly post it up. according to the bilstein website the 7100's are also too small for our truck. their site chart says we should be using a pair of 7100's for our truck. but like you said we arn't running baja with these things. I just want a shock heavy enough to catch the rear and front of my truck when I fall from ledges so i dont need to put so much emphasis on letting her down slowly. sometimes you just need to catch up.

my shocks are 110 on the compression but the chart he gave me didn't show the rebound. ill have to ask the builder

got more done
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can anyone look at these pics and tell if I need to switch the ram lines or if they are correct before i fill her with oil?

this, by the way, is what the bump looks like st full stuff. i need to add 2 more inches to the slee 2" pucks making for 4" bump extension in the front. which is probably conservative as my axle side spring hangers sit higher than the 80 series did
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