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i bypassed mine, all it essentially does is reroutes some flow to the front breaks relative to the Load on the rear.
There are 2 pipes going to it, one is in one is out. Go from the in, directly to the diff, and fxxx the valve and the other pipe off.
Here's what I did with mine, got the idea from Kevin who owned AOR in Grand Junction, CO, did it on all the mini trucks, has worked perfectly for me. The rod is cut, and adjusted the sucker all the way up. Kevin said it would help decending /ledges, etc., to help get some of the weight shift off the front when it is steep:
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thanks guys
i would just as well like to bypass the proportioning thing but would leave it if doing so could offer better stopping somehow. mike if you move the valve all the way up like you did, are you compromised in making high speed stops as more braking is now in the rear?
also does your abs light stay on all the time-important to get this thing inspected
always thinking outside the box.
Tie a cord on that thing & run it through the floorboard, over the rear seat and tie the other end to your rear-view-mirror. To adjust brake bias just reach up and pull the cord. Tie a bell to it and your passengers can use it to signal when they want off. These rigs are great but some of the gadgets they have cause more trouble than they're worth.![]()
Lop it off. You need to remove a T in the front brake-line along with that overflow line. Then it's all up to MC:WC ratio to get your bias where you want.
Not necessarily.neat pics from trailgear. I guess my hoses are hooked up right.
Looking good Dustin! Might just be done for a snow run this winter! Too bad you missed SnT. It was a blast, especially watching rigs snap axles in half jumping the dunes in the "farthest air" contest.