HELP! LX470 cuts off while driving (11 Viewers)

[Samuel5090]

ECT observed by water temp gauge on dash, is a poor indicator. It only goes high when very hot. I read ECT thought tech stream with a blue-driver & iphone, as I drive. Many devices on the market can read ECT, as we drive.

Misfire typically do not set off a DTC (code). They're viewed through tech stream, while engine running.

I don't know what he's after ("asking"). But if your issues of stalling when AC on, with high OAT (summer OAT heat). Likely your engine coolant is running hot (over heating). Once we have and overheating event. We may have boiled fuel and damage charcoal canisters, of 03-up. The 98-02 is not as susceptible to charcoal canister damage.

A properly maintained coolant system is so important. Which start with radiator fin cleaning.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

Temp never gets even to 1/2 way. Complete cooling system service 3,000 miles ago-- new water pump Radiator good. Last time it cut off was 6:30 in AM-- temp was in the 50's. AC off. Thanks for all your input- you have been a great help

 

[2001LC]

Temp never gets even to 1/2 way. Complete cooling system service 3,000 miles ago-- new water pump Radiator good. Last time it cut off was 6:30 in AM-- temp was in the 50's. AC off. Thanks for all your input- you have been a great help

Temp gauge not getting to 1/2 way in LX is not a good thing. I see gauge read on low side in LC. But in LX then tend to read just above 1/2 way. In both cases, actual ECT the same. 06-07 run at 184 to 187F, until OAT starts getting warmer. I see 194 to 197F ECT, with sun and OAT's of 68f and up. AC on does run up ECT to higher end, but should stay below 200F. When pulling to stop at a red light. If ECT jumps above 200F. This usually indicates radiator fins blocked.

This below 1/2 way on gauge, may indicate your coolant system low. I'd check coolant level first thing tomorrow morning, after 8 hour cool down before sun-up. Park with front end higher than rear end. Remove radiator cap. Coolant should be high enough, to touch bottom of cap when it's on. Some think coolant just above fin inside radiator good enough, it is not. Coolant needs to be a top of radiator, so no air can possible be in system. We park front high, so air moves to high point, which is then radiator top.

Once level set correct (all air out). Check ECT through tech stream. If you're actually running cool (below 184F after warm up), something wrong. This can be bad thermostat or installed wrong, Hose to reservoir clogged or cured up inside reservoir. Or some other coolant system issue, like bad fan clutch, etc.

Once you know coolant system in perfect working order check ECT again. If still running cool, check fuel trims. Rich condition, engine runs cool.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

I believe the last time it happened, the compressor was off. It was in the morning and cool and I had driven about 10 miles.

Reason for me asking is I have an 06 as well, and when I went through this issue was when my AC was ON and and it was going thru high pressure. The ECU was detecting a high pressure on the system and it cuts of the motor for safety. I was able to rectify the issue when I put in an Auxiliary fan from LandCruiserPhil. Aside from that, I also replaced my fuel pump with Denso part # 950-0210 and since then (3 yrs) the stalling hasn’t happened.

 

[100serieslover]

All of these suggestions are very good. I'd add one more to the list though. If you have an OBD Scanner that will allow you to view fuel trims (I think Techstream will do this too, but I don't have it), you could glean some valuable info from them. I've not had stalling issues, but did have intermittent rough idling situation going on. Watched O2 sensor performance and fuel trims, which led me to a bad O2 sensor that was NOT throwing a code for most of the time I had the issue, and in fact only threw a code one time and didn't come back after cleared though the problem persisted. Not saying that O2s are the problem, but watching some of that live data can really give you some clues when diagnosing these sorts of issues.

 

[2001LC]

All of these suggestions are very good. I'd add one more to the list though. If you have an OBD Scanner that will allow you to view fuel trims (I think Techstream will do this too, but I don't have it), you could glean some valuable info from them. I've not had stalling issues, but did have intermittent rough idling situation going on. Watched O2 sensor performance and fuel trims, which led me to a bad O2 sensor that was NOT throwing a code for most of the time I had the issue, and in fact only threw a code one time and didn't come back after cleared though the problem persisted. Not saying that O2s are the problem, but watching some of that live data can really give you some clues when diagnosing these sorts of issues.

I agree. I watch ECT, IAT, FT (fuel trim) long & short, MPH, RPM, CAT temps (06-07) very often. Gives valuable clues to how engine running. I do with a bluedrive, as allows me to log data as long as I like. Which it, like all readers, are tapping into tech stream to get data.

 

[Samuel5090]

Temp gauge not getting to 1/2 way in LX is not a good thing. I see gauge read on low side in LC. But in LX then tend to read just above 1/2 way. In both cases, actual ECT the same. 06-07 run at 184 to 187F, until OAT starts getting warmer. I see 194 to 197F ECT, with sun and OAT's of 68f and up. AC on does run up ECT to higher end, but should stay below 200F. When pulling to stop at a red light. If ECT jumps above 200F. This usually indicates radiator fins blocked.

This below 1/2 way on gauge, may indicate your coolant system low. I'd check coolant level first thing tomorrow morning, after 8 hour cool down before sun-up. Park with front end higher than rear end. Remove radiator cap. Coolant should be high enough, to touch bottom of cap when it's on. Some think coolant just above fin inside radiator good enough, it is not. Coolant needs to be a top of radiator, so no air can possible be in system. We park front high, so air moves to high point, which is then radiator top.

Once level set correct (all air out). Check ECT through tech stream. If you're actually running cool (below 184F after warm up), something wrong. This can be bad thermostat or installed wrong, Hose to reservoir clogged or cured up inside reservoir. Or some other coolant system issue, like bad fan clutch, etc.

Once you know coolant system in perfect working order check ECT again. If still running cool, check fuel trims. Rich condition, engine runs cool.

Wondering if this ECT issue is not applicable to my situation--- It died on a cool morning after driving 10 miles- and started right back up. I have never seen the temp gauge go much above 1/2-- ever--so no hard starting, immediate restart does not sound like any temp related or vapor lock issue.

 

[2001LC]

You've very likely, based on fuel pump and relay R&R helping, been running lean. Lean fuel mixture, engine runs hot.

I thought you indicated ECT gauge, 1/2 or below. Now I read not much above 1/2, which is normal for the LX.

Perhaps ECT is fine. But we do want to make sure, it is. I've seen coolant system low, wherein we get false running cool reading on dash gauge. Checking: coolant properly topped, Tech stream ECT data and shoot temp just after turning off a warmed up engine, can be helpful. (IR temp gun should 1-3" from engine side of thermostat housing). Date from tech stream just before shut down and IR gun should match withing a few degrees F. It's important we know, the basic are inline.

Whereas your issues seems fuel related, with R&R of fuel pump then relay gave good results. Stall coming back, may still be fuel related. Possible fuel pump resistor, which would fail more when OAT higher, than cool weather times. Additionally consider; voltage and AMPs to all components is important to consider. I've seen 2007 low miles, with so much battery corrosion (with dried acid). It worked it's way well into wire block housing hanging off battery positive post clamp. Resistance to all system in it, had issues (fuel pump being one), due to poor voltage/AMPs.

Also to be considered is EVAP system.

I find so many owners feel all system good. Yet as I dig in personally with my hands, I find many issue with the basic.

 

[Samuel5090]

You've very likely, based on fuel pump and relay R&R helping, been running lean. Lean fuel mixture, engine runs hot.

I thought you indicated ECT gauge, 1/2 or below. Now I read not much above 1/2, which is normal for the LX.

Perhaps ECT is fine. But we do want to make sure, it is. I've seen coolant system low, wherein we get false running cool reading on dash gauge. Checking: coolant properly topped, Tech stream ECT data and shoot temp just after turning off a warmed up engine, can be helpful. (IR temp gun should 1-3" from engine side of thermostat housing). Date from tech stream just before shut down and IR gun should match withing a few degrees F. It's important we know, the basic are inline.

Whereas your issues seems fuel related, with R&R of fuel pump then relay gave good results. Stall coming back, may still be fuel related. Possible fuel pump resistor, which would fail more when OAT higher, than cool weather times. Additionally consider; voltage and AMPs to all components is important to consider. I've seen 2007 low miles, with so much battery corrosion (with dried acid). It worked it's way well into wire block housing hanging off battery positive post clamp. Resistance to all system in it, had issues (fuel pump being one), due to poor voltage/AMPs.

Also to be considered is EVAP system.

I find so many owners feel all system good. Yet as I dig in personally with my hands, I find many issue with the basic.

Thank you for your continuing input. Vehicle has a new battery. New Fuel pump relay, new Denso FUel pump -- and ALL fluids changed within the last year. new water pump. We are getting ready to change fuel pump resistor and EFI relay.
I checked the radiator level -it is right at the top. how to check the EVAP system??

 

[sr5pickup]

Try searching apps sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor. Could be a possible culprit. I had a hesitation issue with mine over a year ago. Not as aggressive of an issue that you’re having but may be an avenue to look at. But after replacing multiple parts (fuel pump etc.) that I thought were the culprit it ended up being the apps. Oh and I also didn’t have any codes show up when this happened.

 

[Samuel5090]

Try searching apps sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor. Could be a possible culprit. I had a hesitation issue with mine over a year ago. Not as aggressive of an issue that you’re having but may be an avenue to look at. But after replacing multiple parts (fuel pump etc.) that I thought were the culprit it ended up being the apps.

thanks

 

[Samuel5090]

Which fuel pump rely, did you replace? Names of parts can miss lead us.
What are the ECT (engine coolant temperature) as seem through tech stream, running?
Is the security light, ever coming on with IG key in?
Have spark plugs been replace, with know good ones (not some junk China bootleg)?
Any misfire observed in tech stream?

Few thoughts:

Keep a code read plugged in, on all drives. Scan as soon as event happens, without turning off IG key. We sometime can catch a lean condition or other DTC pending. Some disappear if condition clears on next system check.
Make sure wire harness running down LH timing belt cover, is going behind fan bracket and not visible. If running in front of fan bracket. Make sure it's not rubbing serpentine belt or pulleys cutting wires.

Double check grounds firmly connected, like one at firewall to engine at heater tees.

There is a TSB on cam sensor behind RH T-belt cover. But IIRC it's a cranking issue when trying to start. But worth checking. As not only TSB. But during timing belt service. Some damage it's wires or they pull bolts retaining sensors needlessly and don't get torqued back in.

The throttle body electronic can be damage or a sensor wonky. We should get a DTC, but may only be pending. One thing I never do is open the 03- throttle body by hand. Toyota does not say not too. But I've concern with damaging electronics in throttle body. That or if the wire harness loose, could produce issue of stalling. Your butterfly could close (lean condition), cutting air from engine (running rich condition). Look at throttle body butterfly as it opens and closes, while IG key ON (engine off) and someone depress gas pedal. Does it open and close all the way, and smoothly.

Look over air intake pipes, engine and under intake manifold for signs of rodents. Those little guts cause us so many issues.

Run through fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator test by the book.

If dying at low speeds (low RPM), after running at higher RPM like 2,500+. It does point to fuel flow or pressure issue. More thoughts along this line"

1) Make sure vacuum line on fuel pressure regulator, and all points and hose of air box and vacuum hoses snug (no vacuum leaks). This includes air pipe to throttle body, where sometimes pipe is curled up allowing air in at bottom of pipe (can't see). So inspect ever point of intake and vacuum. Monitoring fuels trims can be revealing. Also inspect air filter and air tube coming into from within fender, for obstruction like a nest.

2) Most common is fuel pump in the 06-07 resulting in shut down. I would think the new OEM fuel pump took care of. But it possible you got a bad one. I've never R&R with OEM. I've only used Denso (Not Toyota Denso), which we must remove pump from cage (housing/holder). With the Denso I've never had issue. But if Denso used it must be installed correctly at all points. Which an O-ring we must install, cage set correctly and wire house block connect securely.

3) Just recently a teenage in high school near me, made an observation (very smart and observant of him). He had stall issues, after installing air pump. The pump block the fuel pump resistor which is on RH fender, which has a heat sinks. He moved the resistor into air box, which gives constant air flow to dissipating heat. It's not been very hot here yet, but to-date he's issue cleared. About the some time. A builder and I talking about this fuel pump resistor. He's seen then go bad (not 100 series) on Toyota's. He also said we must have great than 2:" cleaner (air space). They will get hot (increasing resistance) and reduce power (volts/amp) to fuel pump, by to much at low RPMs. During high RPM, ECM routs around resistor and gives full voltage to fuel pump. Fuel flow/pressure drops at low RPM to much if this reply bad or over heating.



View attachment 2995964

Hi any Ideas where to get a fuel pump resistor? Toyota stopped making them....... and why is the EFI relay so expensive??

 

[2001LC]

Sorry NO. I've never looked..

 

[fj40alex]

Hi any Ideas where to get a fuel pump resistor? Toyota stopped making them....... and why is the EFI relay so expensive??

Following

 

[Samuel5090]

Following

UPDATE-- since the last cutoff issue 3 weeks ago, LX has been running great. Maybe the fuel pump relay was the cure. ALmost 16 MPG on a 50 mi trip.

 

[MannRG]

Hey cruiser friends, I'm dealing with what I believe is the exact same issue that @OEMGUY0720 had a few years ago, along with several other 2006 LX owners.

My cruiser (2006 LX - 183k miles) is my daily driver and generally runs great, I've always filled it with premium fuel, and I generally drive like a grandpa (slow & steady), but over the past couple of summers, when the temps get above 100 in Las Vegas, there's been a number of times when I'm exiting a freeway and slowing to a stoplight, and the engine will start to rumble (misfire?) and then stall. I'll sweat it out in the sun for 20 - 30 minutes and then it starts right back up with no issues.

It happened a couple of times in the summer of 2020, and then 3 or 4 times last summer (2021) and it just happened again this past Tuesday for the first time this year (now that temps are pushing 100+ degrees). I had been driving around town for 30-45 in the hot afternoon sun, and then came to a stop after exiting I-15. The time was approximately 2:30 pm, the weather was 100+ degrees, and I was close to empty on fuel as I was heading to a gas station. NOTE: This is the first time I paid attention to the fuel level when the misfire/stall happened, but it's only ever happened in hot, 100+ degree afternoon sun, when I'm pulling up to a stop after driving for a while. I have zero issues in the mornings and evenings, or in the late fall, winter, and early spring.

Since it first happened in the summer of 2020, I've taken it to several mechanics that couldn't replicate the misfire and couldn't find any codes. Even after the CEL came on last summer, and has stayed on, I had a mechanic tell me it wasn't a big deal and was totally safe to drive. Again, the misfire/stall has only ever happened when its super hot outside (100+), the vehicle has been driven in 100+ degree afternoon sun, and I'm pulling up to a stop. Even then, it's only happened a handful of times, and the vehicle is my daily driver.

Despite a couple different mechanics (on a couple different visits) telling me that the vehicle was totally fine and the CEL was nothing to worry about (???), I started researching the problem myself this year and have now spent countless hours on these and other forums, going down endless threads, sending me in every direction, trying to figure out what is causing the misfire. My neighbor helped me check the codes on the CEL, which was throwing P0430 (bank 2), and last weekend I replaced the downstream O2 sensor on the passenger side, but that was simply to try and fix the CEL so I could pass smog (which it didn't fix) and is obviously not fixing the root of the misfire problem. In January, in an attempt to fix the root of the problem, I replaced the fuel filter myself, but obviously, that hasn't fixed the problem being that I just stalled again two days ago.

Reading through all the forums related to this issue, I've seen A LOT of recommendations including replacing the fuel pump, fuel pump resistor, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, ignition coils, ignition wires, MAF sensor, vapor canister purge valve, charcoal canister, fuel cap, throttle position sensor, crank position sensor, pcv valve, egr valve, test for vacuum leaks, and potential fuel injection issues.

Has anyone narrowed down the root cause of this specific type of misfire/stall (ie. hot hot weather, slowing to idle, yet still very intermittent)? Sorry for the long post. I've lost a lot of faith in mechanics this past year and I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this out myself despite only having a high school auto shop class under my belt.

 

[2001LC]

Hey cruiser friends, I'm dealing with what I believe is the exact same issue that @OEMGUY0720 had a few years ago, along with several other 2006 LX owners.

My cruiser (2006 LX - 183k miles) is my daily driver and generally runs great, I've always filled it with premium fuel, and I generally drive like a grandpa (slow & steady), but over the past couple of summers, when the temps get above 100 in Las Vegas, there's been a number of times when I'm exiting a freeway and slowing to a stoplight, and the engine will start to rumble (misfire?) and then stall. I'll sweat it out in the sun for 20 - 30 minutes and then it starts right back up with no issues.

It happened a couple of times in the summer of 2020, and then 3 or 4 times last summer (2021) and it just happened again this past Tuesday for the first time this year (now that temps are pushing 100+ degrees). I had been driving around town for 30-45 in the hot afternoon sun, and then came to a stop after exiting I-15. The time was approximately 2:30 pm, the weather was 100+ degrees, and I was close to empty on fuel as I was heading to a gas station. NOTE: This is the first time I paid attention to the fuel level when the misfire/stall happened, but it's only ever happened in hot, 100+ degree afternoon sun, when I'm pulling up to a stop after driving for a while. I have zero issues in the mornings and evenings, or in the late fall, winter, and early spring.

Since it first happened in the summer of 2020, I've taken it to several mechanics that couldn't replicate the misfire and couldn't find any codes. Even after the CEL came on last summer, and has stayed on, I had a mechanic tell me it wasn't a big deal and was totally safe to drive. Again, the misfire/stall has only ever happened when its super hot outside (100+), the vehicle has been driven in 100+ degree afternoon sun, and I'm pulling up to a stop. Even then, it's only happened a handful of times, and the vehicle is my daily driver.

Despite a couple different mechanics (on a couple different visits) telling me that the vehicle was totally fine and the CEL was nothing to worry about (???), I started researching the problem myself this year and have now spent countless hours on these and other forums, going down endless threads, sending me in every direction, trying to figure out what is causing the misfire. My neighbor helped me check the codes on the CEL, which was throwing P0430 (bank 2), and last weekend I replaced the downstream O2 sensor on the passenger side, but that was simply to try and fix the CEL so I could pass smog (which it didn't fix) and is obviously not fixing the root of the misfire problem. In January, in an attempt to fix the root of the problem, I replaced the fuel filter myself, but obviously, that hasn't fixed the problem being that I just stalled again two days ago.

Reading through all the forums related to this issue, I've seen A LOT of recommendations including replacing the fuel pump, fuel pump resistor, fuel pump relay, spark plugs, ignition coils, ignition wires, MAF sensor, vapor canister purge valve, charcoal canister, fuel cap, throttle position sensor, crank position sensor, pcv valve, egr valve, test for vacuum leaks, and potential fuel injection issues.

Has anyone narrowed down the root cause of this specific type of misfire/stall (ie. hot hot weather, slowing to idle, yet still very intermittent)? Sorry for the long post. I've lost a lot of faith in mechanics this past year and I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this out myself despite only having a high school auto shop class under my belt.

I've an 07, which I call my test vehicle. It "had" every problem we see in the VVT (06-07). One day with time, I'll write it up and reveal all!

First I'll speak just a little on the fuel pump resistor. This is something I'm just now looking at, and was and has not been issue in my test vehicle. But if it gets to hot, it can cause fuel starvation at low RPM. It's important the heat sink of this fuel pump resistor not be blocked.

A high percentage 06-07 Fuel pump , are known to be bad. They reveal themselves more so, when OAT high (~70F and up) on sunny days. Engine will stall from fuel starvation. After running in high RPM, just as we let off accelerator pedal dropping RPM, engine dies. This is akin to fuel resistor issue. But just swapping out the fuel pump alone, correct the issue. We notice here in CO climbing (higher RPM) mountain passes, as we crest (drop to lower RPM) the top of a pass engine dies/stalls. What happens is: Fuel pump & wiring get hot climbing pass, as engine and fuel pump run in high RPM (fastest speed of fuel pump). Heat creates resistance in wire and fuel pump motor. Than as ECU switches power through to fuel pump resistor lowering power (voltage/AMPs), which reduce fuel pump speed. Fuel pump slows to much, and engine is starved of fuel.

P0430, in the VVT engine, is very likely your CAT BK 2 is bad. It's very likely BK1 CAT (P0420) is also going to fail very soon. Unless you've just a BK 2 pre CAT issues.
There are 2 basic reasons our CATs fail:
1) Impact damage CAT, busting them up inside.
2) Upstream issue(s).

I've worked for years to understand why in our VVT engine. We're seeing both CAT fail, then replace and they fail again.
Here's 1 reason (IMHO) "ALL" our 4.7L VVT engine CATs will fail, unless modified:

S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[MannRG]

I've an 07, which I call my test vehicle. It "had" every problem we see in the VVT (06-07). One day with time, I'll write it up and reveal all!

First I'll speak just a little on the fuel pump resistor. This is something I'm just now looking at, and was and has not been issue in my test vehicle. But if it gets to hot, it can cause fuel starvation at low RPM. It's important the heat sink of this fuel pump resistor not be blocked.

A high percentage 06-07 Fuel pump , are known to be bad. They reveal themselves more so, when OAT high (~70F and up) on sunny days. Engine will stall from fuel starvation. After running in high RPM, just as we let off accelerator pedal dropping RPM, engine dies. This is akin to fuel resistor issue. But just swapping out the fuel pump alone, correct the issue. We notice here in CO climbing (higher RPM) mountain passes, as we crest (drop to lower RPM) the top of a pass engine dies/stalls. What happens is: Fuel pump & wiring get hot climbing pass, as engine and fuel pump run in high RPM (fastest speed of fuel pump). Heat creates resistance in wire and fuel pump motor. Than as ECU switches power through to fuel pump resistor lowering power (voltage/AMPs), which reduce fuel pump speed. Fuel pump slows to much, and engine is starved of fuel.

P0430, in the VVT engine, is very likely your CAT BK 2 is bad. It's very likely BK1 CAT (P0420) is also going to fail very soon. Unless you've just a BK 2 pre CAT issues.
There are 2 basic reasons our CATs fail:
1) Impact damage CAT, busting them up inside.
2) Upstream issue(s).

I've worked for years to understand why in our VVT engine. We're seeing both CAT fail, then replace and they fail again.
Here's 1 reason (IMHO) "ALL" our 4.7L VVT engine CATs will fail, unless modified:

S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks @2001LC! Do you think the CAT going bad (for situations like mine) is more from the misfire/stalling issue than from the SAI issue you expertly outlined? NOTE: My CEL only came on (and stayed on) after the first couple of times it misfired and stalled. Also, would a bad fuel pump only cause intermittent misfire/stalling issues? My cruiser has only misfired and stalled when it's really hot outside (95 -100+ degrees), and the engine has been running at high revs for a while and then slows to idle, but it doesn't do it every time.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks @2001LC! Do you think the CAT going bad (for situations like mine) is more from the misfire/stalling issue than from the SAI issue you expertly outlined? NOTE: My CEL only came on (and stayed on) after the first couple of times it misfired and stalled. Also, would a bad fuel pump only cause intermittent misfire/stalling issues? My cruiser has only misfired and stalled when it's really hot outside (95 -100+ degrees), and the engine has been running at high revs for a while and then slows to idle, but it doesn't do it every time.

SAI issue is not really associated misfire or stall. Although long term failure of SAI filter, perhaps could develop into even worst.

06-07 bad fuel pump act up mostly in hot OAT, after dropping back to low RPM from high we misfire or stall. It's the most reliable sign they're bad. We're also "now" looking at fuel pump resistor, if new fuel does correct. But 9 out of 10 fuel only corrects.

Fuel pump issue could cause lean condition, which isn't great for a CAT. But typical will not cause CAT failure. Whereas a rich fuel mixture condition will damage CATs. That said; the OM warns us do not run out of gas, also do not prolong idle. Doing may damage CATs. Which the weak fuel is kind of like running out of gas.

Very likely, your engine is overheat or was. Most do because of coolant system needing serving (including cleaning radiator fins) and engine turned. I'd run logs while driving of ECT, fuel trims, etc. I use Bluedrive and iphone for tech stream logging. See what is going on, then get basics inline.

I can't stress enough. IMHO all SAI filters of the 4.7L VVT engine, will fail. Which will cause damage to more than just SAI & CATs. But these do not directly cause overheating.

 

[Samuel5090]

SAI issue is not really associated misfire or stall. Although long term failure of SAI filter, perhaps could develop into even worst.

06-07 bad fuel pump act up mostly in hot OAT, after dropping back to low RPM from high we misfire or stall. It's the most reliable sign they're bad. We're also "now" looking at fuel pump resistor, if new fuel does correct. But 9 out of 10 fuel only corrects.

Fuel pump issue could cause lean condition, which isn't great for a CAT. But typical will not cause CAT failure. Whereas a rich fuel mixture condition will damage CATs. That said; the OM warns us do not run out of gas, also do not prolong idle. Doing may damage CATs. Which the weak fuel is kind of like running out of gas.

Very likely, your engine is overheat or was. Most do because of coolant system needing serving (including cleaning radiator fins) and engine turned. I'd run logs while driving of ECT, fuel trims, etc. I use Bluedrive and iphone for tech stream logging. See what is going on, then get basics inline.

I can't stress enough. IMHO all SAI filters of the 4.7L VVT engine, will fail. Which will cause damage to more than just SAI & CATs. But these do not directly cause overheating.

I have been trying to locate a fuel pump resistor for my 06 LX and have been unsuccessful --any thoughts?>

 

[2001LC]

Nope! Let me know if you find any.