Help, I'm in FJ40 door weatherstrip replacement hell

[emac]

Yep, EPDM is tough to get anything to stick to it.

Tips for Bonding EPDM Rubber with Industrial Adhesive

Explore the ins and outs of bonding EPDM rubber, and which types of Permabond adhesivea form the strongest bonds.

www.permabond.com

 

[73FJ40]

I cleaned my front doors and my cityracer weatherstrip with denatured alcohol then used the 011 adhesive. Adhered perfectly.

 

[Braden620]

Neither 011 or 08 work with the city racer stuff

Why? Any information other than it just wont work?

 

[brian]

Why? Any information other than it just wont work?

Neither adhere to the weather strip.

 

[Braden620]

@brian can you explain your application method and environmental condtions during your trials? I have city racer stuff and 08011 3M and I'm about to tackle this project.

 

[brian]

wiped down with dna. i use small acid brushs to apply a little on the door, little on the rubber, let it tack, summer, spring, fall....didnt matter, the adhesive gets no bite on the weather strip.
the last go was with oem in the winter, that s*** sticks as soon as you make contact, get it right the first time because there is no second chance, if you try to remove and restick, you tear the it.
both of those trucks are 011.

 

[Clutchee]

Question, has anyone tried sanding, read in, lightly sanding the weather strip to see if any mold release is present? Thus, it not allowing the adhesive to stick to the weatherstrip? Just trying to provide ideas to make things work.

 

[emac]

@Braden620 , I would read the Permabond article I linked above (post 101) and consider cyanoacrylate for bonding to EPDM. I had zero trouble with OEM weatherstrip, but it is NOT EPDM. If you use regular weatherstrip adhesive and it doesnt bond, you are going to have a huge mess to clean up. Personally, I would spend the extra money and get OEM weatherstrip. It is known to work.

 

[Oregon LC]

@brian can you explain your application method and environmental condtions during your trials? I have city racer stuff and 08011 3M and I'm about to tackle this project.

I successfully installed the City Racer weather striping a couple months back, both fronts and rear ambys. I had zero problems and it seems to be holding up just fine. Used the 08011 after I wiped everything down with 90% rubbing alcohol.

 

[JDNs78FJ40]

@Braden620 , I would read the Permabond article I linked above (post 101) and consider cyanoacrylate for bonding to EPDM. I had zero trouble with OEM weatherstrip, but it is NOT EPDM. If you use regular weatherstrip adhesive and it doesnt bond, you are going to have a huge mess to clean up. Personally, I would spend the extra money and get OEM weatherstrip. It is known to work.

@emac is spot on. I used the CityRacer WS and tried both 3M adhesives and application methods mentioned above with very poor results. I will have to redo most of it and it is going to be a huge pain in the A$$.

 

[Braden620]

@emac is spot on. I used the CityRacer WS and tried both 3M adhesives and application methods mentioned above with very poor results. I will have to redo most of it and it is going to be a huge pain in the A$$.

I'm about finished up with my rear doors right now and the 8011 is stuck like a weld. Follow the directions. Clean everything properly and let both sides tack up. There is definitely something you guys are doing improperly. You need VERY LITTLE GLUE!!!!!!! Too much and your going to have a big sticky gooey mess.

 

[emac]

Glad it is working! Even with "real weatherstrip" the process is technique sensitive. I spread a thin layer on both surfaces using a tongue depressor or similar tool. Let it dry and then another thin layer on one surface and stick it together. Work in short sections.

I have not tried the EPDM, but it sounds like the cleaning and application are the key. Good to hear.

 

[Rock Slide]

Glad it is working! Even with "real weatherstrip" the process is technique sensitive. I spread a thin layer on both surfaces using a tongue depressor or similar tool. Let it dry and then another thin layer on one surface and stick it together. Work in short sections.

I have not tried the EPDM, but it sounds like the cleaning and application are the key. Good to hear.

just to confirm, when you installed your oem weatherstrip, did you clean both the pieces and the metal doors before installing? If so, what did you use? I just picked up 2 oem pieces for the rear amby doors. Already have the 3M 8011. I’ll be doing mine as soon as I get the old ones off and just want to make sure everything is prepped properly if needed.

 

[brian]

just to confirm, when you installed your oem weatherstrip, did you clean both the pieces and the metal doors before installing? If so, what did you use? I just picked up 2 oem pieces for the rear amby doors. Already have the 3M 8011. I’ll be doing mine as soon as I get the old ones off and just want to make sure everything is prepped properly if needed.

DNA

 

[emac]

@Rock Slide I am pretty sure I used brake parts cleaner on the oem weatherstrip and doors. Bottom line, they have to be cleaned and you have to follow the directions on the adhesive. Take your time and it will turn out great.

 

[zerotreedelta]

I've got the CityRacer weatherstrip on hand, just waiting for the door paint to cure and reassembly to start. Ordered up some 080011, but planning to do some flavor of a small "bench test" to check adhesion to the weatherstrip before starting.

I want to say the 40Channel guy used cyanoacrylate for his, doing it section by section...will have to go rewatch that just to see.

 

[Rock Slide]

Installed oem weatherstrip on all 4 doors this weekend using 3M 8011. I was out of brake cleaner, but had a store nearby that sells Denatured Alcohol, so went that route. Cleaned the weatherstripping and doors with that DNA first. I then followed the YouTube video posted previously on how to correctly apply adhesive. Installed the weatherstrip onto each door in sections- top, left side, right side and bottom of door.

Wow, amazing how easy this process was. The hardest part I encountered was just waiting the few minutes between sections to let the adhesive set on both the weatherstip and the door before actually placing the weatherstip on the doors. I found I could wait 2 minutes or 10 minutes to let the adhesive set. Maybe could have gone longer, but I didn't want to wait that long.

Like others and the video mentioned, the key is to make sure the 3M 8011 adhesive you've applied to the door and weatherstrip is set (not tacky; almost dry to the touch) before applying the weatherstrip onto the door. I was surprised how well the bond was within seconds of applying the weatherstrip to the doors. You really need to make sure you want the weatherstrip to sit where you lay it. Once the adhesives from both surfaces come in contact, there's not much, if any, moving the weatherstrip around for final placement on the door. Really thought I would have had to use some tape or clamps to keep the weatherstrip in place as I moved to the next sections, but nothing was needed. Amazing bond when done correctly.

 

[73FJ40]

Installed oem weatherstrip on all 4 doors this weekend using 3M 8011. I was out of brake cleaner, but had a store nearby that sells Denatured Alcohol, so went that route. Cleaned the weatherstripping and doors with that DNA first. I then followed the YouTube video posted previously on how to correctly apply adhesive. Installed the weatherstrip onto each door in sections- top, left side, right side and bottom of door.

Wow, amazing how easy this process was. The hardest part I encountered was just waiting the few minutes between sections to let the adhesive set on both the weatherstip and the door before actually placing the weatherstip on the doors. I found I could wait 2 minutes or 10 minutes to let the adhesive set. Maybe could have gone longer, but I didn't want to wait that long.

Like others and the video mentioned, the key is to make sure the 3M 8011 adhesive you've applied to the door and weatherstrip is set (not tacky; almost dry to the touch) before applying the weatherstrip onto the door. I was surprised how well the bond was within seconds of applying the weatherstrip to the doors. You really need to make sure you want the weatherstrip to sit where you lay it. Once the adhesives from both surfaces come in contact, there's not much, if any, moving the weatherstrip around for final placement on the door. Really thought I would have had to use some tape or clamps to keep the weatherstrip in place as I moved to the next sections, but nothing was needed. Amazing bond when done correctly.

My experience, exactly. I used denatured alcohol per CityRacer's recommendation, on both the weatherstrip and the door panels.

 

[brian]

Installed oem weatherstrip on all 4 doors this weekend using 3M 8011. I was out of brake cleaner, but had a store nearby that sells Denatured Alcohol, so went that route. Cleaned the weatherstripping and doors with that DNA first. I then followed the YouTube video posted previously on how to correctly apply adhesive. Installed the weatherstrip onto each door in sections- top, left side, right side and bottom of door.

Wow, amazing how easy this process was. The hardest part I encountered was just waiting the few minutes between sections to let the adhesive set on both the weatherstip and the door before actually placing the weatherstip on the doors. I found I could wait 2 minutes or 10 minutes to let the adhesive set. Maybe could have gone longer, but I didn't want to wait that long.

Like others and the video mentioned, the key is to make sure the 3M 8011 adhesive you've applied to the door and weatherstrip is set (not tacky; almost dry to the touch) before applying the weatherstrip onto the door. I was surprised how well the bond was within seconds of applying the weatherstrip to the doors. You really need to make sure you want the weatherstrip to sit where you lay it. Once the adhesives from both surfaces come in contact, there's not much, if any, moving the weatherstrip around for final placement on the door. Really thought I would have had to use some tape or clamps to keep the weatherstrip in place as I moved to the next sections, but nothing was needed. Amazing bond when done correctly.

yes, that makes the oe so much worth it....plus it compresses like it is intended when the door is shut.
hell i couldnt hardly get the doors shut with the aftermarket stuff on them, and that was after i adjusted them out.

 

[Rock Slide]

yes, that makes the oe so much worth it....plus it compresses like it is intended when the door is shut.
hell i couldnt hardly get the doors shut with the aftermarket stuff on them, and that was after i adjusted them out.

x2! I thought the previous weatherstrip I removed from my doors was oem. They were installed recently and it was obvious the installer did not following the proper cleaning process before mounting them. I was able to pull off all the weatherstrip with ease.

After picking up the oem stuff, I quickly learned I had a set of reproduction weatherstrips on my doors previously. I was led to believe it was oem, but after comparing what was on my doors originally vs what I just picked up, it was night and day different. The oem material compresses so much better; it's almost a soft foam like material. The aftermarket material I pulled off was a very dense material. The oem stuff is also made to the fit the doors EXACTLY. I noticed the other stuff I had was not made to the same specifics and did not have the same exact fitment as the oem. Lastly, the oem stuff was much thicker in places it should be. Whereas the previous stuff was thinner in the same spots.

If that wasn't enough of a reason to go oem, my local dealer gives buyers 31% off on all parts if you purchase the parts through their website versus calling the parts counter directly. Go figure. But hey, I'll take that deal all day.