Any idea what this is? Seems to have some oil coming from it. 2B engine. If your standing in the front of the engine this is on the left hand side near the motor mount.
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Any idea what this is? Seems to have some oil coming from it. 2B engine. If your standing in the front of the engine this is on the left hand side near the motor mount.
Looks like an oil pressure sensor.
Instead I believe it is the oil pressure SWITCH that will trigger the EDIC to stop your 2B engine in the event that it has insufficient oil pressure..
The oil pressure sender tends to be much larger, as shown here on my 1979 B diesel (where they are side-by-side):
Actually ... looking again at your pic, your 2B and my B have them similarly side-by-side..
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Yes, oil pressure switch. If you are careful you should be able to give it a gentle tightening to stop the oil leakage. It's a tapered thread. DON'T crank on it or you will break it!
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- #5
Excellent. Thanks guys.
Tom yours looks just a bit cleaner than mine thats for sure!
Tom yours looks just a bit cleaner than mine thats for sure!
*thread hijack*
Tom, do you know if it's possible to routinely stop a b engine via the edic instead of using the pull stop.
A follow on question? Can you then wire that into the ignition to turn the engine off via the key.
Finally, why didn't Toyota do this?
Corglass
Tom, do you know if it's possible to routinely stop a b engine via the edic instead of using the pull stop.
A follow on question? Can you then wire that into the ignition to turn the engine off via the key.
Finally, why didn't Toyota do this?
Corglass
Those wires should be separate I believe he is routing the switch wire through the same jacket as the sender
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
You can stop the engine via the EDIC with the oil switch wire if you ground it.
I'm not familiar with 40 series, but that is how the 60 series are shut down. And on start they go to extra rich setting too. Is the pull shut off stock?
hi brownbear. The pull shut off isnt stuck, but I'd like to place a pushbutton 'OFF' switch on the dash to kill the engine.
My fear nobody would know about the pull stop in an emergency. Plus a pushbutton is easier.
I'm going to try the grounding of the oil switch in about an hour, i'll report back........
My fear nobody would know about the pull stop in an emergency. Plus a pushbutton is easier.
I'm going to try the grounding of the oil switch in about an hour, i'll report back........
Before you go cutting into wires you should disconnect your low oil switch wire to see if you EDIC even works.
David*BJ70
Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Only disconnecting the wire do nothing... It have to be ground to cut the EDIC. It may take from 0 to +/-8 seconds to react.
Hi Corglass.
Do you have an ignition switch like mine here:
Turning my key back (anticlockwise) from "On" will always turn my engine off.
I understand this is how it should be on yours too if you have a factory-fitted EDIC system.
Two wires go to it but only one is connected. The other wire goes onwards to my oil switch (and simply shares the same sleeve on route to the sender).
Some oil senders on other Land Cruiser models do have an earth tab (which from what I've seen usually consists of a male spade connector spotwelded to the sender housing) but mine instead relies on the sender mounting threads (1/8 BSPT as I recall) for its earthing circuit.
I think those two wires shared the same sleeve ex-factory but perhaps I modified it when I replaced those sleeves.
(Looks like I fitted "unshrunk heat-shrink sleeving" there..)
Very true.
Exactly the same with the 40-series too (if my 1979 is anything to go by)...
Who mentioned cutting wires?
Yep. If you disconnect the oil switch you won't notice any difference..
(But by doing this you will have rendered inoperable your "engine shutdown on loss of oil pressure".. In other words, your EDIC system will no longer offer any "loss of oil pressure protection".)
lost marbles, my truck doesn't turn off via the key. My ignition looks the same as yours except I have a blanking plate where your has a black button (above ACC in pic)
I'd love to be able to kill it via the key. I presume yours turns off the truck via the key and EDIC?
What would happen if I put +24V to the spade connector on the edic? Would that test it for me?
I'd love to be able to kill it via the key. I presume yours turns off the truck via the key and EDIC?
What would happen if I put +24V to the spade connector on the edic? Would that test it for me?
So you don't have that little button?
I think I need to push that down in order to turn my key fully anticlockwise so that I can pull it out... (but my actions with the key are so automatic after 30+ years of ownership that I just do it and never stop to think about it)...
Does your steering automatically lock with your key removed? Mine does... Not that I'm saying this is a good theft deterrent ... because it isn't as this pic shows:
BTW - This is Hohepa's ignition switch after it was stolen here in the centre of Wellington.
(Bart, who was down in Wellington from the Far North for his university graduation named his 1984 BJ42 "Hohepa".)
Anyways... I'm thinking that if you don't have that button then perhaps your model doesn't have this steering lock..
I wouldn't put 24V into the connector that attaches to your EDIC's oil switch if that's what you're planning...(It was never designed to get a 24V backfeed like that. At best such a backfeed would do nothing while at worst it my cause damage to the EDIC relay.) But if you want to see if your oil pressure protection system works, grounding (by earthing it to the body/frame using a lead with a little crocodile clip at each end or using something similar) that wire while your engine is running should make the EDIC motor move the IP lever to the fuel-shutoff position to almost immediately stall your engine.
Here's the wiring diagram:
So, if your loss-of-oil-pressure-shutdown works,and reading from the above diagram - If you want your key to stop your engine via the EDIC system, just ensure your EDIC system is wired as above where the BY wire from the ignition switch comes into the engine bay to your voltage regulator and EDIC relay.
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lostmarbles,
You're so helpful. Thanks, this is really helping me. (I've a National Car Test here in Ireland on Friday, so urgently need to get some bits finished after 2.5 years of slow restoration...)
OK, back to my EDIC issues. I'll clarify what my truck has first:
So given my current setup, do you think I could manually install an OIL SWITCH (order from Toyota) and manual cutoff via the key (presumably I need an FUEL CONTROL RELAY FOR EDIC for this?
Other issues (probably not related)
Thanks again guys, your replies really help
You're so helpful. Thanks, this is really helping me. (I've a National Car Test here in Ireland on Friday, so urgently need to get some bits finished after 2.5 years of slow restoration...)
OK, back to my EDIC issues. I'll clarify what my truck has first:
- No steering lock
- No oil switch (I searched for it, it's not there)
- No auto shut off via the key (same as my other doner truck, so maybe this was how they were configured for the Irish market?)
- No visible "FUEL CONTROL RELAY FOR EDIC {OPT}" As shown above.
So given my current setup, do you think I could manually install an OIL SWITCH (order from Toyota) and manual cutoff via the key (presumably I need an FUEL CONTROL RELAY FOR EDIC for this?
Other issues (probably not related)
- My ammeter isn't working (yet)
- My oil pressure gauge defaults to high once the ignition is on (working on this, scratching my head a bit though)
Thanks again guys, your replies really help
I hope Gslam isn't offended by our discussion taking over his thread.
But then I'm continuing with this hijack on the basis that we've already identified his oil switch and therefore the thread's already achieved his original purpose (and is therefore free to wander in random directions in keeping with "diesel tech"'s core value of "freedom-to-roam"
).At first I thought maybe you're planning on displaying your BJ40 in a car show but I've since discovered your "National Car Test" is some some sort of "road-worthiness/compliance check" by your authorities!
Do you have an EDIC motor-gearbox like this one pictures here on my spare engine?
I've been assuming you have got this. But have you really???
I think some markets got a pull-out engine-kill knob and an "over-injection magnet" instead of this EDIC system that I have on my two 2977cc B-engines..
Any my EDIC relay (aka Fuel Control Relay) is hidden between my glovebox and the nearby side panel (that incorporates one of my kick-vents).
- Thread starter
- #20
No offense here my question was already answered!
