help getting residual tar up from floor (1 Viewer)

[cruxarche]

Hi all,
I have stripped the factory tar up from the front of my 60. I was chasing little bits of rust and got carried away and ended up pulling up all that tar.

Now I have little tiny bits of tar left (and some adhesive) that is tough to get up. I am trying to get it ALL up so I can put down a new layer of paint all across the front interior floor.

I have tried scraping (which leads to damaging the metal), wire wheel, acetone (too slow and makes a huge mess).

Any other suggestions?


Thanks!

 

[62Cruiser]

Dry Ice!

Before I installed Dynamat underneath my carpet, I got a bunch of dry ice and crushed it. Using gloves, I spread it over the tar and it will literally "pop" off the truck. Some of it needs a little extra "coaxing" with the help from a plastic scraper or similar. For me, the dry ice made the job a breeze. After the tar was up I used some denatured alcohol to clean up residule adhesive and prep the surface.

 

[cruxarche]

62Cruiser,
I did use dry ice to get the tar up but there are lit bits all over the place that are still there. For some reason when the tar came up these bits did not come with it. I am trying to avoid spending hours scraping off little pea size bits of tar!

 

[scrapdaddy]

I don't know what type of wire wheel, you used, but it needs to be a heavy duty one. Not something you put in a drill. I used a die grinder with a very stiff, twisted wire wheel. Please be careful and use a face shield. The wires DO fly out and can punture your skin.

It is a slow process.

 

[cruxarche]

scrapdaddy,
Maybe that was my problem, all I have is the drill-type wire wheel...

 

[62Cruiser]

I got what your saying. Harbor Freight has some cheap grinders that you can swap out the grinding wheels with cutoff wheels, and in your situation a wire wheel. You can get pretty aggresive with these things though..You don't want to tear anything up. They work great for all kinds of things.

4" Angle Grinder

 

[tclark]

I'm not sure if this will work as well as a wire wheel(I hopefully with know later this week) but it doesn't fling wires like a wire brush and lasts quite a while.

Al's Liner Abrasive Nylon Filament Cup Brush

I'm at the exact same point as you, let us know how it goes!

 

[cruxarche]

tclark,
I just picked up an angle grinder at HD, i got 50% off a floor model rigid. THey did not have any wire wheels that looked right. They were all the twisted wire type, but way too heavy duty. Looked like they would rip up the floorboards. When I get one that looks like it will work and start in on the job I will re-post... If your method works out let me know.

Thanks.

 

[lovetoski]

I used a cold chisel and a hammer to chip off the bits that didn't come up with dry ice. The chisel profile I used has a flat back, so only one side is tapered. Flat side down, tap carefuly with the hammer.

 

[tclark]

I used a cold chisel and a hammer to chip off the bits that didn't come up with dry ice. The chisel profile I used has a flat back, so only one side is tapered. Flat side down, tap carefuly with the hammer.

I know that will work as I've messed with it a little but seems like it would take a whole nother eternity!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Now a angle grinder is a different tool, than a die grinder. The wire wheel, on the die grinder, will sit at a right angle to the tool. The twisted wire wheel is the one you need, it won't eat through the steel pan. I used the die grinder, for this job.

 

[John Smith]

Ronson lighter fluid and a putty knife will easily remove the tar residuals.

 

[TEXASYETI]

Heat gun, putty knife, and a little elbow grease. Comes up like butta

 

[redpim1]

Air chipper... have used one to peel the tar out of several Toyotas. Works great wear hearing and eye protection and just be care full not to pinch throught the floor.

GISON-Air Needle Scaler / Air Flux Chipper (2 in 1) (4400bpm, 3mmx19)[GP-851],Air Needle Scaler (Pneumatic Pin Derusting Gun),Air Hammer,Air Tool, Air Tools, Pneumatic Tool, Pneumatic Tools,Taiwan Manufacturer,Factory,Supplier,China,Asia

 

[cruxarche]

WELL!
no shortage of options here... I think I may try the heat gun just for fun. I am in Davis and it is over 100 this time of year. Trying to get it off in chunks requires some level of cooling, otherwise it just kind of mushes around, and tools seem to get stuck in it. Maybe the heat gun is the aikido move?

 

[cruxarche]

Made some progress, thought I would share...

What got me going...

Got up the big pieces:

Then the little stuff:

A little paint:

and thought I would start in on the doors while I was at it.

 

[tclark]

Looking good! I've got to get back at mine; I got busy with other projects and this one has kinda fell by the wayside. What paint did you put down? I've got some Rust Bullet I plan to use, never used it before but I read good things.

 

[cruxarche]

tclark, after agonizing over this for way to long I just went with what i had in my garage! Just had to geterdun.

For what it is worth I ground down to bare metal (almost no black metal left) and used self etching primer. Real light coats and several of them til I had great coverage. Then I just used touch up paint matched silver metallic. I still need to remove that fender and fix the leaky cowl and reseal the seam along the edge of the floor and the door/kick panel. Then I need to get put down dampener. THEN I get to install my new tunes.

 

[kevinmrowland]

Looks like you got it, but for future reference and for others who are looking, just leave the dry ice in place for longer.
It works best to get 100% of the tar off in one piece at one time, if bits are left behind you just need to leave it in place for longer.

If parts are left behind, just put some dry ice on them then tap the floor pan with a rubber mallet from underneath, they will pop right off.

The dry ice "melts" from exposure to air, just cover it with some towels as it sits and a few small blocks will do the whole truck.

KR

 

[TobyB]

...and having done this not too long ago, lacquer thinner will act as a solvent on most of
the tar. It's nasty- you'd want a respirator and thick nitrile gloves- but it's fast if you
soak the little 'stickers' of tar for a bit, then work on them progressively with something like
a scotch- brite or brillo pad.

Looks good!

t