HELP Alternator Bracket (1 Viewer)

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I’m in the process of replacing my alternator. To get the alternator out, I went to remove the adjusting arm. One bolt was already broken. The second snapped almost instantly.

Whether I get a new bracket or take this one off and can somehow get the broken bolts out, I’m worried about the bolts holding the mounting bracket to the water pump (I think that’s what it is). So, I’m in a bit of a pickle.

Are the 2 bolts at the lower end of the picture holding the water pump in? If I remove them, am I going to have problems with my water pump?

Any other suggestions on how to un-F this situation?

IMG_2947.jpeg
 
Can anyone help me figure out the part number please? I keep looking at diagrams and cannot find anything.
 
I think I found the part number. Can anyone help verify the difference between my 1989 3FE and the FJ80 3FE regarding this part of the engine? Same block?
 
Part number for the bracket? Doesn't appear that the bracket is unserviceable aside from the broken bolts. Remove the bracket, weld a nut on each of the broken bolts and remove them both. If you don't have the resources to do so, I would think any shop could do it pretty quickly.

The upper nut is on a stud, hopefully the stud will stay in place. The lower bolt does go through the WP but obviously must be removed. Soak both down with PB Blaster or equivalent well in advance of removing them.
 
from the looks of the bolts both were broken for some time, the amount of corrosion on the bolts, not a clean break
it may be easier to replace bracket
 
Spray with penetrating oil. Have you got a small propane torch? With care spray the oil, then
hit the bracket only around the remaining bolt with some heat. Do this a couple of times, then try to
slowly turn that bolt out. The two upper rusty bolts you just have to drill out once you have the bracket in
a vice.
 
So, here is the current plan of action. I have some friends that are welders. They are going to try and weld on a nut and back it out that way. They have been soaking in penetrating oil for a hot minute, along with some heat.

Plan B: Frill out and re-tap.

Plan C: Drill out to a completely larger size and re-tap.

Plan D: I may try to find a bracket anyways, just as a back up in the future.

The Great Unknown: Will my water pump need to be resealed completely? Only time will tell, but have to get this handled first.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll let everyone know how it goes.
 
Plan A worked. My buddy was able to weld on another bolt and we were able to get them to come out with some work. As part of that, we sandblasted some of the corrosion off of the bracket. So, I finished the sandblasting and am repainting before I put it back on.

Water pump is dripping a little with the bracket off. I'll torque to spec and see if it holds. If not, I'll be redoing the water pump gasket too. :facepalm:
 
Plan A worked. My buddy was able to weld on another bolt and we were able to get them to come out with some work. As part of that, we sandblasted some of the corrosion off of the bracket. So, I finished the sandblasting and am repainting before I put it back on.

Water pump is dripping a little with the bracket off. I'll torque to spec and see if it holds. If not, I'll be redoing the water pump gasket too. :facepalm:
nice work. There is definitely a bit more work to replace that water pump gasket. If I was going in that far I’d just get a new water pump.
 
nice work. There is definitely a bit more work to replace that water pump gasket. If I was going in that far I’d just get a new water pump.
I have no interest in doing it. I'm praying that reinstalling the bracket and torquing everything to spec will make it right.
 
I have no interest in doing it. I'm praying that reinstalling the bracket and torquing everything to spec will make it right.
If that water pump gasket is weeping at the bottom you should remove the pump and re-seal.
This essentially means removing the pump. Whether you chose to replace the pump at that
time. Once a seal on a gasket is broken leaking is generally accepted as inevitable.
 
If that water pump gasket is weeping at the bottom you should remove the pump and re-seal.
This essentially means removing the pump. Whether you chose to replace the pump at that
time. Once a seal on a gasket is broken leaking is generally accepted as inevitable.
I'd put the bolts back in and tighten them up. I loosen things all the time to service others, they usually leak until you put the fasteners back in place . Generally the leaks stop after that. The last sentence in the advice given above is not correct.
 
So, here is where we're at. It's AF here and I'm tired. Got the bracket reinstalled and torqued to FSM specs. Dripping stopped (from what I can see), so I am going to let it sit overnight to let any residual coolant get collected. Then, I am going to give it 24 hours to see if there are anymore drips.

Replacing gasket/water pump depends on what happens over the next 24 hours.
 
So, here is where we're at. It's AF here and I'm tired. Got the bracket reinstalled and torqued to FSM specs. Dripping stopped (from what I can see), so I am going to let it sit overnight to let any residual coolant get collected. Then, I am going to give it 24 hours to see if there are anymore drips.

Replacing gasket/water pump depends on what happens over the next 24 hours.

If everything is back together I'd crank up the engine and let it come to operating temp and develop pressure in the cooling system, then check for leakage.
 
If everything is back together I'd crank up the engine and let it come to operating temp and develop pressure in the cooling system, then check for leakage.
I was kind of thinking that too. Might be another couple of days before she cranks. Want to get the battery trays in and belts back on. Water pump won't do anything without belts. Right?
 
I was kind of thinking that too. Might be another couple of days before she cranks. Want to get the battery trays in and belts back on. Water pump won't do anything without belts. Right?
You could always pressure test the system with one of those kits you can borrow from NAPA. That might give you a little piece of mind or not.
 
You could always pressure test the system with one of those kits you can borrow from NAPA. That might give you a little piece of mind or not.
I'll just wait. I have plenty of little things to do.
 
Agree w Godwin, get up to operating temp, check torque, then let it get back to ambient temp and check the torque one last time. I'd be surprised if you have any leakage after that.
 
Tonight, I put on one of the belts (alternator to water pump to crank) just so I could get it running and up to temp. Got up to temp and ran for about a half hour. No issues and no leaks. Going to let is sit overnight to see if anything changes, but seems like I may have avoided a catastrophe.
 
One quick, but related question ... How do you know how tight the belts should be without some specialty tool?
 

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