Hello- new BJ42 owner- Australia.
- Thread starter beejay42
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #62
Thanks for the Piccy Matt- it is sorta looking a bit different (well it looks a lot different but that is mainly colouring and material- but the shape might be right?) the best thing might be for me to just bring my original one out, and put them side by side.
Then I can grab some other parts while I'm at it
I'll give you a call tomorrow.
Tmarx- no problem, I'll get some photos up of it soon- its a little dirty and needs a clean, but its a neat little seat, and pretty comfy.
Got it for $60- and aside from a clean and re-vinyl on the back, just have to get some seatbelts for it. With the head room- it will be shorties in the back
(not that I plan on having people in much at all- it is just good to have IMHO, and when folded and tumbled it really doesn't take up too much space).
Hans.
Then I can grab some other parts while I'm at it
I'll give you a call tomorrow.
Tmarx- no problem, I'll get some photos up of it soon- its a little dirty and needs a clean, but its a neat little seat, and pretty comfy.
Got it for $60- and aside from a clean and re-vinyl on the back, just have to get some seatbelts for it. With the head room- it will be shorties in the back
(not that I plan on having people in much at all- it is just good to have IMHO, and when folded and tumbled it really doesn't take up too much space).Hans.
Would love to see some pics of that setup if you have time once you get her
you lucky bugger getting a back seat i've been trying to get one so i can put in our 40 so when we come down to vic to pick it up i can bring my youngest boy with us too for the plane ride anyway still looking
- Thread starter
- #64
Well- the seat may have been a score-
but consider my luck more than nuetralised...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/218089-3b-oil-water-no-water-oil.html
I've got a fair bit of oil in the water- somehow this got missed or hidden in my uncles inspection- or occured between inspection and delivery... (my fault in the end for not getting a proper mechanical survey)
head gasket at the very least it seems- some are saying cracked head
but consider my luck more than nuetralised...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/218089-3b-oil-water-no-water-oil.html
I've got a fair bit of oil in the water- somehow this got missed or hidden in my uncles inspection- or occured between inspection and delivery... (my fault in the end for not getting a proper mechanical survey)
head gasket at the very least it seems- some are saying cracked head
Hi Hans
I think it was most likely the trucking firm that damaged your starter motor by churning the engine over and over continuously while trying to start it (in ignorance of the glow plug procedure).
(No doubt this possibility has already crossed your mind .)
I think it was most likely the trucking firm that damaged your starter motor by churning the engine over and over continuously while trying to start it (in ignorance of the glow plug procedure).
(No doubt this possibility has already crossed your mind .)
- Thread starter
- #66
quite possible mate-
imagining that has gone along with the vision of the same bloke trying to wind down the window (that was off its rail) to tell his mate that the starter motor was rooted- kept winding and stripped the gear.... 'bloody hell- the window is stuffed too!'
imagining that has gone along with the vision of the same bloke trying to wind down the window (that was off its rail) to tell his mate that the starter motor was rooted- kept winding and stripped the gear.... 'bloody hell- the window is stuffed too!'
s*** thats no mate not what you wanted
- Thread starter
- #68
Still gotta get some photos of that back seat- sorry I forgot (am sick as a dog at the moment)
Got the windscreen in today- thanks Matt for that number- they did it for $150- still cheaper than the other people I called.
I found a few little rust spots and holes on the bottom of the windscreen surround- under the rubber seal- so without much time to address it- put a bit of rustkill fishoilene on it.
Thankfully it doesn't stink in the cabin.
Got the windscreen in today- thanks Matt for that number- they did it for $150- still cheaper than the other people I called.
I found a few little rust spots and holes on the bottom of the windscreen surround- under the rubber seal- so without much time to address it- put a bit of rustkill fishoilene on it.
Thankfully it doesn't stink in the cabin.
I'm a fan of using fishoilene too. But unfortunately in 35 years of using it, I've found it actually eats rubber.
I have it inside my doors of my cruiser (and other places) and it has turned the door seal rubber into a "tar-like goo" around all the bottom drain holes.
When I get around to doing up the doors - I'll clean out the fishoilene from the lower section and treat that area with POR15 instead. But I'll still spray fishoilene into the upper reaches. The beauty of this old-fashioned fishoil stuff is that new applications eat-into the earlier applications to form a thick goey coating. Whereas the modern products tend to flake and prevent subsequent applications from sealing out moisture/salt.
So beneath the windscreen rubber isn't an area I'd tend to use fishoilene now. But unless you were to replace the windscreen yourself (and treat the rust between removing the old screen and fitting the new one) you had no opportunity to deal to it properly anyway.
Having mentioned that it damages rubber, I don't think the small amount you would have been able to apply will damage your rubber to any noticeable extent. But my years of experience with the stuff has taught me that it is also best used where it can easily be "repeat coated" to form a thick goey coating. If it is thin (like where you applied it), it will soon disappear.
Oh - And try to avoid areas where it gets exposed to sunlight - This breaks it down so it becomes an ideal food source for moss and other assorted species of "green gunge".
I reckon there's nothing better than the fishoilene/bitumous mixture that I will continue to spray inside my chassis rails! (I waterbast out the stones and muck, and dry it out before spraying it.)
If there's a "next time" - Perhaps you should replace the windscreen yourself. I found it is not hard. (Flat glass like ours has got to be the simplest to install.)
Bloody hell - Didn't mean to say this much!
- Thread starter
- #70
Thanks again,
the window replacement did look pretty easy- the hardest thing seemed to be getting the old one out. If I needed another windscreen (knocking on wood) I wonder how much cheaper I could just buy the glass? It would have to be a fair bit cheaper- as for $150 installed at home (while I sip my morning tea and watch
) it's really pretty fair.
I didn't know that about fishoilene and rubber. You are right in the small amount I applied. Even if it does turn some rubber goohey- it can't possibly be much- and I doubt it will really be a concern- it might even help goo the rubber into the corrosion and keep water out.
The windscreen guy was nice enough to wait for me to oil it (and first run around trying to find the oil). I was going to use a (phosphoric acid?) rust converter on it- but not having the time to do it properly (let the acid react- then dry and wipe off, etc)- and not really having the best track record with this stuff anyway (at stopping rust and at not ruining paint)- the oil was chosen.
The rust really wasn't that bad at all- and considering the windscreen surround (unlike any other car I've owned) is eventually removable/replacable...
I will be picking up the starter motor later today.
I have too much work to do this weekend to have a decent play with the truck again- but hopefully I'll get the starter on at least and see how it starts.
Cheers,
Hans.
the window replacement did look pretty easy- the hardest thing seemed to be getting the old one out. If I needed another windscreen (knocking on wood) I wonder how much cheaper I could just buy the glass? It would have to be a fair bit cheaper- as for $150 installed at home (while I sip my morning tea and watch
) it's really pretty fair.I didn't know that about fishoilene and rubber. You are right in the small amount I applied. Even if it does turn some rubber goohey- it can't possibly be much- and I doubt it will really be a concern- it might even help goo the rubber into the corrosion and keep water out.
The windscreen guy was nice enough to wait for me to oil it (and first run around trying to find the oil
). I was going to use a (phosphoric acid?) rust converter on it- but not having the time to do it properly (let the acid react- then dry and wipe off, etc)- and not really having the best track record with this stuff anyway (at stopping rust and at not ruining paint)- the oil was chosen.The rust really wasn't that bad at all- and considering the windscreen surround (unlike any other car I've owned) is eventually removable/replacable...
I will be picking up the starter motor later today.
I have too much work to do this weekend to have a decent play with the truck again- but hopefully I'll get the starter on at least and see how it starts.
Cheers,
Hans.
matt.mcinnes
2F-ETI
Top bloke the windscreen guy, little more than I paid for my last one but like I said its been a while. At $150 fitted at you home I don't think you can go wrong.
Beers cold If you fancy dropping in after fitting the new starter.
Matt
Beers cold If you fancy dropping in after fitting the new starter.
Matt
- Thread starter
- #72
Cheers Matt,
yeah I'm more than happy with $150.
If it was my business, and I had to buy the windscreen, maintain the car, petrol, insurance, and whatever else- I would probably want a bit more than $150.
The starter motor just walked in the door (under the arm of my girlfriend). Its sparkling- smells and looks like a new one (been stripped down and repainted- the starter not the girlfriend
). I don't know the whole details of what was done yet- but there will have been few things that were not done/replaced.
Its a bit dark now to put it in- so tomorrow for that.
I'll try to make it around again soon Matt- at the moment I am sick as a dog and am placing myself under quarantine
Of course it only happens when I have a lot of work to do- and I have a bastard of a paper to get done for wednesday. Everyone around me has been sick for weeks- and now that they are better- I get it.
Hopefully soon I will be coming around actually driving the thing. I gotta figure out this window winder mechanism... I might make it through a RWC without a couple of things like a heater or an EDIC- but drivers side window taped up too...
pics of the ittle beast on this thread
yeah I'm more than happy with $150.
If it was my business, and I had to buy the windscreen, maintain the car, petrol, insurance, and whatever else- I would probably want a bit more than $150.
The starter motor just walked in the door (under the arm of my girlfriend). Its sparkling- smells and looks like a new one (been stripped down and repainted- the starter not the girlfriend
). I don't know the whole details of what was done yet- but there will have been few things that were not done/replaced.Its a bit dark now to put it in- so tomorrow for that.
I'll try to make it around again soon Matt- at the moment I am sick as a dog and am placing myself under quarantine
Of course it only happens when I have a lot of work to do- and I have a bastard of a paper to get done for wednesday. Everyone around me has been sick for weeks- and now that they are better- I get it.
Hopefully soon I will be coming around actually driving the thing. I gotta figure out this window winder mechanism... I might make it through a RWC without a couple of things like a heater or an EDIC- but drivers side window taped up too...
pics of the ittle beast on this thread
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2008
- Threads
- 67
- Messages
- 1,887
- Location
- El Salvador and Washington, D.C.
- Website
- www.facebook.com
So,
my local beaurepairs were nice enough to get a fresh from the supplier replacement battery couriered in this morning- just incase the one I bought off them was a little old...
new battery- no difference.
With my girlfriend trying to start it an me climbing under- I mangage to notice that the click noise I was hearing was not coming from the starter- but was just the relays. The starter was doing nothing.
I checked and rechecked and cleaned up the connections- the earths,
gave the starter a few whacks with a hammer...
nothing-
so, I pulled the starter motor off.
The gear thingyD)(can you tell I am not much of a mechanical wizz) was free and working like I thought it should- and everything looked fine...
so I started pulling it apart...
first thing I noticed was a couple loose blobs of solder- just freely rattling around- so I pulled of the other end of the thingy
and presto
two of the copper wires for the bushes had been really dodgily soldered on- and had come loose. Maybe they were knocked loose in transport- maybe they were already loose and just touching- and finally melted out for me... as they were loose but touching- this would have given me my struggling weak as piss turning over (probably sparking at the same time and melting the solder...)
Either way, it seems the problem is located.
Aside from being a bit black and grimy- everything else in the starter motor looked pretty good (at least as far as i got into it)- bearngs are fine- bushes to my untrained eye look pretty good...
Unfortunately it was 3:45 by the time I figured it out- so too late to get any local auto elecs to solder it up for me (I called around and tried).
Long weekend- so will drop it in monday for a proper fix up (rather than trying to bodge it myself- or getting my Jewler girlfriend to have a go
Anyway- thats it for the moment.
Thanks for all the help and advice fella's.
Maybe monday afternoon I will be able to start it up.
Hans.
Beejay,
I just got back from a weeklong trip (business) and tried to start up the 40. went through the glow plug procedure as usual turned over once and then...CLICK, CLICK, CLICK
I knew that the battery was near the end of it's time and am going out to get a replacement today. I hope that that does it if not I'll follow your lead and dig into the starter motor. BTW love the pics of your rig, especially the pics of the headliner and speaker box. I was thinking of a similar mod and decided against it mostly because I want to be able to go with a soft top for part of the year. I am now thinking of mounting the speakers at points along the roll cage ( second phase of the build projected to happen in a few months). For now I just need to get it started! Continued good luck
- Thread starter
- #74
Thanks Jabxyz,
I'd hazard a guess that its just a battery- hopefully! You can always try the old smack it with a hammer trick (its such a treat when that works)
I'll let you know how the rebuilt starter goes in comparison anyway- could be worth doing.
I do love the headliner in my truck, it really gives it a nice feel- the speaker box is cool too, and sounds great- the only negative is that for the rear seat I bought to put in, the speaker box takes up head room- requiring the seat to be more forward than I would have liked. It all fits, but just barely. I am considering lowering the frame on the seat (a custom fold and tumble) as the seat back is pretty high for looking out the rearview mirror... but it is well made and I would really have to butcher it to do it.
I'll figure that out later anyway.
p.s. no word from the boat painter guy- I will try to mail him again soon.
Hans.
I'd hazard a guess that its just a battery- hopefully! You can always try the old smack it with a hammer trick (its such a treat when that works
)I'll let you know how the rebuilt starter goes in comparison anyway- could be worth doing.
I do love the headliner in my truck, it really gives it a nice feel- the speaker box is cool too, and sounds great- the only negative is that for the rear seat I bought to put in, the speaker box takes up head room- requiring the seat to be more forward than I would have liked. It all fits, but just barely. I am considering lowering the frame on the seat (a custom fold and tumble) as the seat back is pretty high for looking out the rearview mirror... but it is well made and I would really have to butcher it to do it.
I'll figure that out later anyway.
p.s. no word from the boat painter guy- I will try to mail him again soon.
Hans.
Hello Beejay.
Apols for long delay in replying. My BJ came with Dunlop SP Road Gripper radials (7.5x16). She has the original 16 inch steel wheels. That's what I'm driving with as there's plenty of miles on them. A friend recently produced an original worm drive winch for me that he had in store for his Austin Gypsy!! However, I don't have the forward PTO and shaft. Have you taken delivery yet? And are you happy? All the best.
Apols for long delay in replying. My BJ came with Dunlop SP Road Gripper radials (7.5x16). She has the original 16 inch steel wheels. That's what I'm driving with as there's plenty of miles on them. A friend recently produced an original worm drive winch for me that he had in store for his Austin Gypsy!! However, I don't have the forward PTO and shaft. Have you taken delivery yet? And are you happy? All the best.
- Thread starter
- #76
Finally...
finished a long-suffering paper for Uni this arv and handed it in, went to an old local pub of mine for recovery and dinner, many pints with mates, great music... even laughed off an old fella (drunk and spilling his beer) who tried to pick a fight
came back and put the long charged battery in- (bearing in mind that my newly rebuilt starter has been waiting for 3 days now for the battery)
gave it a glow for 30 seconds- cranked, second revolution it fired... SWEET.... no problems.
The engine ran as I have only seen it run so far- Beautiful! no smoke whatsoever at start or anytime after. Exhaust is fume, clean and clear.
Then, I took it for about ten blockies (laps around my neighbourhood) up and down hills, exploring the gearing, slow, fast, low range and high, at ranges of revs...
So far so good- apart from one odd thing.
Bunnyhopping
in gear at idle it will crawl away, down a hill, up a hill, dack, dack, dack, dack(LOVE that diesel)... whatever.
Give a teeny bit of throttle and it is OK... give it a tiny bit more (ie about 1/5th throttle) and it easily begins to violently bunnyhop.
Above about 1/4 throttle, then it is fine again...
This isn't just a first gear thing- it can freely happen up to 3rd (might happen in fourth, just haven't been to that rev enough yet in fourth).
Once it hops, dropping the throttle doesn't really help escape it (I have to engage the clutch to confidently get out of it)- while of course flooring the throttle out of the hopping range does help... after a couple of almighty hops... not exactly the best solution.
I've driven manuals all my life- and am familiar with the occasional initial brief bunnyhopping when one is unfamiliar with an odd car... but this seems out of the ordinary (unless I am just a kook).
My girlfriend (who was in the passenger seat
) reckoned her old peugeot did that when the fuel filter needed changing...
The oil filter has just been done, the oil changed a few days ago, the air filter about to be done, and I was about to do the fuel filter as well- so I will soon see if this helps the problem.
But, any other ideas?
Is this just me adjusting to a new truck?
Does the BJ42, or 3B, or H41, have a tendency to bunnyhop at just above idle?
what gets me is that it crawls nicely at the flat-bottom-revs, and then at the slightly higher revs (that I would going in and out of when wheeling through tricky bits) it starts to bunnyhop
Hopefully I can just get an off the rack fuel filter tomorrow and not have to order one in. Hopefully it does something.
- and thanks for the reply Philclmp- yep, taken delivery, and aside from a few scares, I am very happy with it. Whatever the case, it will be on the road soon- and soon after off the road
I will hopefully be going round to a mates house this weekend to try to fix my window winder. He is a bit of a tech metalwoker- jewlery and metal-art- so we should be able to make something up with my windo system that works.
Anyway,
just an update-
I may have to pose the bunnyhopping question in another thread...
dunno.
finished a long-suffering paper for Uni this arv and handed it in, went to an old local pub of mine for recovery and dinner, many pints with mates, great music... even laughed off an old fella (drunk and spilling his beer) who tried to pick a fight
came back and put the long charged battery in- (bearing in mind that my newly rebuilt starter has been waiting for 3 days now for the battery)
gave it a glow for 30 seconds- cranked, second revolution it fired... SWEET.... no problems.
The engine ran as I have only seen it run so far- Beautiful! no smoke whatsoever at start or anytime after. Exhaust is fume, clean and clear.
Then, I took it for about ten blockies (laps around my neighbourhood) up and down hills, exploring the gearing, slow, fast, low range and high, at ranges of revs...
So far so good- apart from one odd thing.
Bunnyhopping
in gear at idle it will crawl away, down a hill, up a hill, dack, dack, dack, dack(LOVE that diesel
)... whatever. Give a teeny bit of throttle and it is OK... give it a tiny bit more (ie about 1/5th throttle) and it easily begins to violently bunnyhop.
Above about 1/4 throttle, then it is fine again...
This isn't just a first gear thing- it can freely happen up to 3rd (might happen in fourth, just haven't been to that rev enough yet in fourth).
Once it hops, dropping the throttle doesn't really help escape it (I have to engage the clutch to confidently get out of it)- while of course flooring the throttle out of the hopping range does help... after a couple of almighty hops
... not exactly the best solution.I've driven manuals all my life- and am familiar with the occasional initial brief bunnyhopping when one is unfamiliar with an odd car... but this seems out of the ordinary (unless I am just a kook).
My girlfriend (who was in the passenger seat
) reckoned her old peugeot did that when the fuel filter needed changing...The oil filter has just been done, the oil changed a few days ago, the air filter about to be done, and I was about to do the fuel filter as well- so I will soon see if this helps the problem.
But, any other ideas?
Is this just me adjusting to a new truck?
Does the BJ42, or 3B, or H41, have a tendency to bunnyhop at just above idle?
what gets me is that it crawls nicely at the flat-bottom-revs, and then at the slightly higher revs (that I would going in and out of when wheeling through tricky bits) it starts to bunnyhop
Hopefully I can just get an off the rack fuel filter tomorrow and not have to order one in. Hopefully it does something.
- and thanks for the reply Philclmp- yep, taken delivery, and aside from a few scares, I am very happy with it. Whatever the case, it will be on the road soon- and soon after off the road
I will hopefully be going round to a mates house this weekend to try to fix my window winder. He is a bit of a tech metalwoker- jewlery and metal-art- so we should be able to make something up with my windo system that works.
Anyway,
just an update-
I may have to pose the bunnyhopping question in another thread...
dunno.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2008
- Threads
- 67
- Messages
- 1,887
- Location
- El Salvador and Washington, D.C.
- Website
- www.facebook.com
Finally...
finished a long-suffering paper for Uni this arv and handed it in, went to an old local pub of mine for recovery and dinner, many pints with mates, great music... even laughed off an old fella (drunk and spilling his beer) who tried to pick a fight
came back and put the long charged battery in- (bearing in mind that my newly rebuilt starter has been waiting for 3 days now for the battery)
gave it a glow for 30 seconds- cranked, second revolution it fired... SWEET.... no problems.
The engine ran as I have only seen it run so far- Beautiful! no smoke whatsoever at start or anytime after. Exhaust is fume, clean and clear.
Then, I took it for about ten blockies (laps around my neighbourhood) up and down hills, exploring the gearing, slow, fast, low range and high, at ranges of revs...
So far so good- apart from one odd thing.
Bunnyhopping
in gear at idle it will crawl away, down a hill, up a hill, dack, dack, dack, dack(LOVE that diesel
Give a teeny bit of throttle and it is OK... give it a tiny bit more (ie about 1/5th throttle) and it easily begins to violently bunnyhop.
Above about 1/4 throttle, then it is fine again...
This isn't just a first gear thing- it can freely happen up to 3rd (might happen in fourth, just haven't been to that rev enough yet in fourth).
Once it hops, dropping the throttle doesn't really help escape it (I have to engage the clutch to confidently get out of it)- while of course flooring the throttle out of the hopping range does help... after a couple of almighty hops
I've driven manuals all my life- and am familiar with the occasional initial brief bunnyhopping when one is unfamiliar with an odd car... but this seems out of the ordinary (unless I am just a kook).
My girlfriend (who was in the passenger seat
The oil filter has just been done, the oil changed a few days ago, the air filter about to be done, and I was about to do the fuel filter as well- so I will soon see if this helps the problem.
But, any other ideas?
Is this just me adjusting to a new truck?
Does the BJ42, or 3B, or H41, have a tendency to bunnyhop at just above idle?
what gets me is that it crawls nicely at the flat-bottom-revs, and then at the slightly higher revs (that I would going in and out of when wheeling through tricky bits) it starts to bunnyhop
Hopefully I can just get an off the rack fuel filter tomorrow and not have to order one in. Hopefully it does something.
- and thanks for the reply Philclmp- yep, taken delivery, and aside from a few scares, I am very happy with it. Whatever the case, it will be on the road soon- and soon after off the road
I will hopefully be going round to a mates house this weekend to try to fix my window winder. He is a bit of a tech metalwoker- jewlery and metal-art- so we should be able to make something up with my windo system that works.
Anyway,
just an update-
I may have to pose the bunnyhopping question in another thread...
dunno.
Hans,
My BJ40, has the B engine and the H41 tranny I have driven it around, up and down hills and on flats and in all gears and no hoppity hop my friend. If mine did that unespectedly I think I'd be the one leaving pellets behind in the road not the hopping rig.
Let me know what you find out on this one. Geez.
Well I'll give you a different perspective Hans.
I've owned my BJ40 for 27 years and it has always been able to "bunny-hop".
At low engine revs (especially likely to happen if I'm crawling over very rough terrain and on an uphill gradient) --- if I put my foot down slightly on the accelerator...... she will surge forward suddenely. Then (and I'm not sure whether it is the "surging forward" that makes my foot lift slightly) - but she will momentarily slow. And then she surges forward again - probably because my foot has fallen back to where it was before the "acceleration forces" lifted it. And so the process continues. - BUNNY HOPPING BJ-style.
I think torsion (winding up like a spring) in the transmission plays its part too.
Even with a lot of experience of my diesel - I still get into "bunny hopping" situations occasionally now. (Only "off-road" though - Because I've learnt how to easily avoid it "on-road".) But having said that - With experience you will learn how to avoid it most of the time.
On road, I pretty well use 1st gear just to get rolling. (I'm just trying to think whether I even touch the accelerator before changing into second. Bit hazy on that - because it is all "automatic" to me now!)
If I am on a really rough rocky trail, I tend to slow down and take it gently. And this is when you become most susceptible to bunnyhopping.
The high torque of your diesel is responsible and I don't think there's any cure. (Other than planting your right foot HARD all the time which tends to have its own adverse consequences.)
Hand throttle will overcome it - But you need to be in full control on tricky trails so using that is out of the question if you're safety conscious.
I've owned my BJ40 for 27 years and it has always been able to "bunny-hop".
At low engine revs (especially likely to happen if I'm crawling over very rough terrain and on an uphill gradient) --- if I put my foot down slightly on the accelerator...... she will surge forward suddenely. Then (and I'm not sure whether it is the "surging forward" that makes my foot lift slightly) - but she will momentarily slow. And then she surges forward again - probably because my foot has fallen back to where it was before the "acceleration forces" lifted it. And so the process continues. - BUNNY HOPPING BJ-style.
I think torsion (winding up like a spring) in the transmission plays its part too.
Even with a lot of experience of my diesel - I still get into "bunny hopping" situations occasionally now. (Only "off-road" though - Because I've learnt how to easily avoid it "on-road".) But having said that - With experience you will learn how to avoid it most of the time.
On road, I pretty well use 1st gear just to get rolling. (I'm just trying to think whether I even touch the accelerator before changing into second. Bit hazy on that - because it is all "automatic" to me now!)
If I am on a really rough rocky trail, I tend to slow down and take it gently. And this is when you become most susceptible to bunnyhopping.
The high torque of your diesel is responsible and I don't think there's any cure. (Other than planting your right foot HARD all the time which tends to have its own adverse consequences.)
Hand throttle will overcome it - But you need to be in full control on tricky trails so using that is out of the question if you're safety conscious.
- Thread starter
- #79
Thanks guys-
Lostmarbles, that sounds like what is going on with mine.
Maybe we should call it BJ- Bunny Jumping
I was trying to pay particular care that my foot wasn't falling back and forwards with the surging and slowing of the truck... but I am sure it probably was a little.
I don't imagine the very small range that exists between throttle out and throttle all the way in helps much- any small reaction would count.
so, alright... I'm going to have to just work my way around this one. Already by the last blockies I had mostly learnt to avoid it- I just thought it would be likely to be a PITA off road.
- as a thought- I wonder if (for lack of a better word) 'gearing' the accelerator cable so one got a greater level of control (larger range on the floor between all out and all the way in) would help?
If it is caused by the foot thing- then I am sure it must help?
p.s. I was tired last night... H41 transmission? wrong... make that H42.
Lostmarbles, that sounds like what is going on with mine.
Maybe we should call it BJ- Bunny Jumping
I was trying to pay particular care that my foot wasn't falling back and forwards with the surging and slowing of the truck... but I am sure it probably was a little.
I don't imagine the very small range that exists between throttle out and throttle all the way in helps much- any small reaction would count.
so, alright... I'm going to have to just work my way around this one. Already by the last blockies I had mostly learnt to avoid it- I just thought it would be likely to be a PITA off road.
- as a thought- I wonder if (for lack of a better word) 'gearing' the accelerator cable so one got a greater level of control (larger range on the floor between all out and all the way in) would help?
If it is caused by the foot thing- then I am sure it must help?
p.s. I was tired last night... H41 transmission? wrong... make that H42.
That sounds complicated Hans. I think some kind of footrest next the accelerator (RH side) might be simpler and still work OK. (So you can rest your foot partially on the footrest and "lean if over onto the pedal" to achieve "fine low-throttle-control".)
But having said that, I think I'll just live with it and try and fine-tune my "BJ - bunnyhop- avoidance - skills".
