Hello- new BJ42 owner- Australia.
- Thread starter beejay42
- Start date
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i was under the impression that LED globes are not ADR approved for use in brakes, indicators, etc. This could be a problem for you so it might be worth checking out first.
- Thread starter
- #103
Thanks alot for that Josh-
and sorry for the dumbass question- but where do the LED resistors go for the indicators?(I would just go the four resistor way).
And thanks for the headsup Andrew- I'll try to look into that.
Do you know what the rational behind that might be?
and sorry for the dumbass question- but where do the LED resistors go for the indicators?(I would just go the four resistor way).
And thanks for the headsup Andrew- I'll try to look into that.
Do you know what the rational behind that might be?
G'day Lads,
The resistors go between the positive wire for the indicator and the earth. They increase the resistence so that the flasher mechanism works.
I'm not sure if they are legal or not. They work very well, so to me, that is what matters. I have seen many loris and ute trays with LEDs on them, so I'd imagine they are legal. Hard telling, though, as everything seems to be illegal here in Australia at some level.
Here in South Australia, our cars do not have to be inspected by Big Brother. It may be that in Qld or Vic I would get caught and have to say 100 rosaries, I'm not sure.
Cheers,
Josh
The resistors go between the positive wire for the indicator and the earth. They increase the resistence so that the flasher mechanism works.
I'm not sure if they are legal or not. They work very well, so to me, that is what matters. I have seen many loris and ute trays with LEDs on them, so I'd imagine they are legal. Hard telling, though, as everything seems to be illegal here in Australia at some level.
Here in South Australia, our cars do not have to be inspected by Big Brother. It may be that in Qld or Vic I would get caught and have to say 100 rosaries, I'm not sure.
Cheers,
Josh
- Thread starter
- #105
Just a little update-
hopefully will be getting the underdash air ducting for the heating soon, and some of the dash switches I am missing for the heater, fan, and fresh vent- (cheers Hamish!).
I haven't been able to find a stock gear shifting knob (mine came with a loose 5 speed knob just sitting on it- different thread so wouldn't screw on)- so I have made a couple on my lathe.
heres some photos,
first one out of salvaged River Red Gum and brass,
second one out of a salvaged mystery dead tree in my old yard, and 316 stainless.
may not be everyones cup of tea- but feel free to offer preferences.
I think I like the materials of the second one (the paler wood) but the shape of the first...
The red gum is great because it is hard as nails- but the red and the brass.... sort of makes me feel like it is a bit better suited to my old wooden boat...
Not to take anything away from our already undervalued River Red Gum (better known as railway sleepers or firewood) but I love this mystery pale timber of mine (have made quite a few tool handles and such out of it)- I suspect it is some sort of fruit tree wood- either way it is beautiful in texture, grain and fragrence- photos just don't do it justice... but then the ballish shape of it isn't as comfortable in the palm as the other one, and the metal ferule is probably a bit big (not to mention the bottom of it -although invisable in use- is buggered up).
Anyway, might be of interest to some- got a preference?
btw, both are simply oiled (no stain or anything) with a homemade Danish oil sort of mix- linseed oil, tung oil, and a dribble of varnish.
hopefully will be getting the underdash air ducting for the heating soon, and some of the dash switches I am missing for the heater, fan, and fresh vent- (cheers Hamish!).
I haven't been able to find a stock gear shifting knob (mine came with a loose 5 speed knob just sitting on it- different thread so wouldn't screw on)- so I have made a couple on my lathe.
heres some photos,
first one out of salvaged River Red Gum and brass,
second one out of a salvaged mystery dead tree in my old yard, and 316 stainless.
may not be everyones cup of tea- but feel free to offer preferences.
I think I like the materials of the second one (the paler wood) but the shape of the first...
The red gum is great because it is hard as nails- but the red and the brass.... sort of makes me feel like it is a bit better suited to my old wooden boat...
Not to take anything away from our already undervalued River Red Gum (better known as railway sleepers or firewood) but I love this mystery pale timber of mine (have made quite a few tool handles and such out of it)- I suspect it is some sort of fruit tree wood- either way it is beautiful in texture, grain and fragrence- photos just don't do it justice... but then the ballish shape of it isn't as comfortable in the palm as the other one, and the metal ferule is probably a bit big (not to mention the bottom of it -although invisable in use- is buggered up).
Anyway, might be of interest to some- got a preference?
btw, both are simply oiled (no stain or anything) with a homemade Danish oil sort of mix- linseed oil, tung oil, and a dribble of varnish.
Hey. 
It's great to personalise one's cruiser Hans.
It must be something generic with us lot. I mean look at Marshall's (Trollhole's) engine!!!
But then we're both a bit more "moderate" I suspect.
I'm going to "personalise" the "diesel" sign on my "fuel filler cover door" soon and I'll probably post photos of that in a few months.
So you do BOTH wood and metal turning!
......Interesting.
I'm always scared about wood and I hate the dust. And I prefer metal because with metal you can easily fill in holes or other defects/mistakes with more metal and no-one would ever know the difference. (Except I've noticed that hot-dip-galvanising tends to expose where metal has been "patched". ... Even though it was undetectable prior to hot-dipping ---- which is weird. The zinc often doesn't "take to" the welded bits the same for some reason. ) But wood is a completely different story in that it is so difficult to "patch/repair". And my experience is that wood can split for no apparent reason too. So I steer clear of it but I do appreciate wood turning/polishing craftmanship like you have displayed here.
It's great to personalise one's cruiser Hans.It must be something generic with us lot. I mean look at Marshall's (Trollhole's) engine!!!
But then we're both a bit more "moderate" I suspect.I'm going to "personalise" the "diesel" sign on my "fuel filler cover door" soon and I'll probably post photos of that in a few months.
So you do BOTH wood and metal turning!
......Interesting.I'm always scared about wood and I hate the dust. And I prefer metal because with metal you can easily fill in holes or other defects/mistakes with more metal and no-one would ever know the difference. (Except I've noticed that hot-dip-galvanising tends to expose where metal has been "patched". ... Even though it was undetectable prior to hot-dipping ---- which is weird. The zinc often doesn't "take to" the welded bits the same for some reason. ) But wood is a completely different story in that it is so difficult to "patch/repair". And my experience is that wood can split for no apparent reason too. So I steer clear of it but I do appreciate wood turning/polishing craftmanship like you have displayed here.
G'day Beejay42,
I like the custom touch. Did you bend your shifter to be closer to the dash? I would have trouble reaching that knob with it bent away from me like that.
As for shifter knobs: You can use the knob from a Hilux or from a 70 series as well if you want a factory one (although I have to say that I like the ones you made better for your rig)- of course, then you have a 5 speed one again. You are going to be stuck with 40 series if you want the factory 4-speed shift pattern, though. The Hilux 4 speed is an 'H' pattern, and so it will show your reverse in exactly the wrong spot.
Are you going to paint your glove box door when you paint your bolt-in dash? I found that, as long as the colour is close to the factory silver, and all of the panels match, it is hard to tell that the paint is not original.
Cheers,
Josh
I like the custom touch. Did you bend your shifter to be closer to the dash? I would have trouble reaching that knob with it bent away from me like that.
As for shifter knobs: You can use the knob from a Hilux or from a 70 series as well if you want a factory one (although I have to say that I like the ones you made better for your rig)- of course, then you have a 5 speed one again. You are going to be stuck with 40 series if you want the factory 4-speed shift pattern, though. The Hilux 4 speed is an 'H' pattern, and so it will show your reverse in exactly the wrong spot.
Are you going to paint your glove box door when you paint your bolt-in dash? I found that, as long as the colour is close to the factory silver, and all of the panels match, it is hard to tell that the paint is not original.
Cheers,
Josh
- Thread starter
- #108
Thanks guys,
Lostmarbles,
I am not much of a turner by any means. Where some will only rest when they can turn a perfect bead with their skew and finish it with the briefest touch over from a bit of sandpaper- I might be sanding away for ages, fixing grain tear-out and achieving my final touches of shaping that way. I get the product I want- but I don't exactly get there like I should, nor as quickly.
I have a funky old lathe that someone with a lot more skill than me home-built a long time ago- it is mainly made out wood and a has a great big inside out-side chuck from a metal lathe...
So when I do metal on it- it is simply tooled by hand and the tool rest-it is a little dicey to put it mildly
I have a couple of people close to me with proper metal lathes if I ever need anything real done.
The extent of my lathe work to date has primarily consisted of restoring tools- lots of handles and ferules- which is what these things basically are- with a threaded nut in them.
Virtually everything I use is recycled- I have a big bucket of brass plumbing fittings for ferules, and plenty of stainless left over from making a pushpit (back rail and seat) for my boat. And I like to reclaim timber as well- frankly we throw out and burn so much great timber it makes me a little mad.
Hey and while I'm showing off
here is that pushpit if you wanna see- now this took a long time to make- and then install- out on the water
In general turning,
I've had a few scary moments like wood splitting- but then that was mostly when trying to make things like a bowl... which I then had to think to myself- is a stupid wooden bowl really worth bashing my face in with flying chunk of wood?
I just stick to spindle turning now.
Though I love it, I am sick of turning wood too - the dust and cleaning up drives me crazy. I'd make another knob of some other wood I have (blackwood) but just don't think I can deal with cleaning up again yet maybe later.
And, I would like to see what you are doing with your diesel sign when you are ready- mine aint looking so good and is begging for a restoration effort.
Josh,
I haven't bent the shifter myself- but it is quite possible a PO did. I had noticed it does seem quite far forward?
Maybe it was done for the third seat in the middle- to get a little more crotch room
I guess I will have to see how it feels on the road- maybe I will have to bend it back again.
I figured that if I can't have the right shift pattern on the knob- then I might as well just go for something I would personally prefer anyway- and putting my hand on this lovely old polished wood all day is greatly preferred by me that that old sticky black rubber.
I hadn't thought about the glove box cover- is that meant to be a different colour?
The handle above the glove box had a rusty patch on it- so I have pulled that off, stripped it and primed it, and may very well paint that what is probably a non-original black- sort of as a feature you know
Considering my truck is never going to be a pristine original- the doors, seats, etc- I am not too greatly concerned now with keeping things strictly original. I don't want to go too far from it- but will just go with what is available and looks good.
I have yet to find out what the PO did with the instrument cluster- what it is painted with or plated with.
If that finish matches my dash panel I am about to do- then I would be happy.
oh, and btw,
I think I will be going for the red gum knob- it just feels so much better in the hand.
Thanks fellas-
sorry for the rant.
Hans.
Lostmarbles,
I am not much of a turner by any means. Where some will only rest when they can turn a perfect bead with their skew and finish it with the briefest touch over from a bit of sandpaper- I might be sanding away for ages, fixing grain tear-out and achieving my final touches of shaping that way. I get the product I want- but I don't exactly get there like I should, nor as quickly.
I have a funky old lathe that someone with a lot more skill than me home-built a long time ago- it is mainly made out wood and a has a great big inside out-side chuck from a metal lathe...
So when I do metal on it- it is simply tooled by hand and the tool rest-it is a little dicey to put it mildly
I have a couple of people close to me with proper metal lathes if I ever need anything real done.
The extent of my lathe work to date has primarily consisted of restoring tools- lots of handles and ferules- which is what these things basically are- with a threaded nut in them.
Virtually everything I use is recycled- I have a big bucket of brass plumbing fittings for ferules, and plenty of stainless left over from making a pushpit (back rail and seat) for my boat. And I like to reclaim timber as well- frankly we throw out and burn so much great timber it makes me a little mad.
Hey and while I'm showing off
here is that pushpit if you wanna see- now this took a long time to make- and then install- out on the waterIn general turning,
I've had a few scary moments like wood splitting- but then that was mostly when trying to make things like a bowl... which I then had to think to myself- is a stupid wooden bowl really worth bashing my face in with flying chunk of wood?
I just stick to spindle turning now.
Though I love it, I am sick of turning wood too - the dust and cleaning up drives me crazy. I'd make another knob of some other wood I have (blackwood) but just don't think I can deal with cleaning up again yet
maybe later.And, I would like to see what you are doing with your diesel sign when you are ready- mine aint looking so good and is begging for a restoration effort.
Josh,
I haven't bent the shifter myself- but it is quite possible a PO did. I had noticed it does seem quite far forward?
Maybe it was done for the third seat in the middle- to get a little more crotch room
I guess I will have to see how it feels on the road- maybe I will have to bend it back again.
I figured that if I can't have the right shift pattern on the knob- then I might as well just go for something I would personally prefer anyway- and putting my hand on this lovely old polished wood all day is greatly preferred by me that that old sticky black rubber.
I hadn't thought about the glove box cover- is that meant to be a different colour?
The handle above the glove box had a rusty patch on it- so I have pulled that off, stripped it and primed it, and may very well paint that what is probably a non-original black- sort of as a feature you know
Considering my truck is never going to be a pristine original- the doors, seats, etc- I am not too greatly concerned now with keeping things strictly original. I don't want to go too far from it- but will just go with what is available and looks good.
I have yet to find out what the PO did with the instrument cluster- what it is painted with or plated with.
If that finish matches my dash panel I am about to do- then I would be happy.
oh, and btw,
I think I will be going for the red gum knob- it just feels so much better in the hand.
Thanks fellas-
sorry for the rant.
Hans.
G'day Hans,
Yes, the glove box door is meant to be the same colour as the instrument cover, centre dash and tacho bezel (yours is also probably from an older rig, as the shifting plate on yours is rivetted on, and the 81ish-84 40 series were actually a sticker)- but it is all really preference. I am certainly not an 'all original' guy by any means...
As for the handle, I am not sure that it is factory. Your rig likely came with a padded dash, and it looks as if there are holes where it would bolt on. You will find that they were all the same, so one in nice condition from any year they were available in Australia would fit. (in the US, they were available from 1969ish-1984, here I think it is 81-84, but I could be wrong). There is a light on the bottom of the padded dash which lights up your knobs on the bolt-in centre dash, and it looks as if there is a black plastic cap on your dash where that wire would have come out. I reckon that, if you look back there, you will find a two-pronged plug, meant to go to that light.
As for the colour- I found that the 'silver' colour rattle can from the 'Australian Export' brand at Sprint matches reasonably closely (colour code EX019). The only issue with this is that you have to let it dry for about 30 minutes, and then paint it with a clear coat high gloss top layer, as the paint is not smooth or glossy. It is a pain to paint, as it tends to layer- but after a couple of tries, I figured out how to get it on smoothly. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Josh
Yes, the glove box door is meant to be the same colour as the instrument cover, centre dash and tacho bezel (yours is also probably from an older rig, as the shifting plate on yours is rivetted on, and the 81ish-84 40 series were actually a sticker)- but it is all really preference. I am certainly not an 'all original' guy by any means...
As for the handle, I am not sure that it is factory. Your rig likely came with a padded dash, and it looks as if there are holes where it would bolt on. You will find that they were all the same, so one in nice condition from any year they were available in Australia would fit. (in the US, they were available from 1969ish-1984, here I think it is 81-84, but I could be wrong). There is a light on the bottom of the padded dash which lights up your knobs on the bolt-in centre dash, and it looks as if there is a black plastic cap on your dash where that wire would have come out. I reckon that, if you look back there, you will find a two-pronged plug, meant to go to that light.
As for the colour- I found that the 'silver' colour rattle can from the 'Australian Export' brand at Sprint matches reasonably closely (colour code EX019). The only issue with this is that you have to let it dry for about 30 minutes, and then paint it with a clear coat high gloss top layer, as the paint is not smooth or glossy. It is a pain to paint, as it tends to layer- but after a couple of tries, I figured out how to get it on smoothly. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Josh
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Josh,
Thanks alot this is super helpful. Just to be clear for example:
"2 x 36 LED BA15S WHITE GLOBES (for reverse)"
means that I want to order two of the 36 LED BA15S White Globes correct? I need to modify this a little for the instrument cluster so that I keep three white festoons, one each for the turn signals and high beam light and three red festoons for the remainder of the panel so that it is backlit in red for preservation of night vision purposes.
Hans,
Beautiful work. I actually like the shape of the paler mystery wood knob but in the Red River Gum and brass. Let me know if you ever feel like doing one up in your spare time as I would be interested in a couple.
Josh and Hans,
Because of all of the help from you guys I have decided to go with the original instrument cluster and not the after market replacements. The gauges look good now and will be what I really want if the LEDs brighten them even a little more. I don't have a cool center console instrument panel like you guys, must be an Aussie thing, so I will still have do something to bring some order to that area of my dash. I'll let you guys know once I figure that out.
Thanks again,
John
P.S. Josh, I love your rig baby!!!
I have absolutely no need for one now but it falls squarely in the category of "if I had all the money in the world I'd have one of these just in case I wanted to ...." Any chance that you could post up some pics of the interior on your thread?
John
Josh,
Thanks alot this is super helpful. Just to be clear for example:
"2 x 36 LED BA15S WHITE GLOBES (for reverse)"
means that I want to order two of the 36 LED BA15S White Globes correct? I need to modify this a little for the instrument cluster so that I keep three white festoons, one each for the turn signals and high beam light and three red festoons for the remainder of the panel so that it is backlit in red for preservation of night vision purposes.
Josh, Thanks this is really helpful. Is ther any chance that you have a pic of exactly where in your setup you put the resistors. Something in the village idiot style for me.
I haven't been able to find a stock gear shifting knob (mine came with a loose 5 speed knob just sitting on it- different thread so wouldn't screw on)- so I have made a couple on my lathe.
heres some photos,
first one out of salvaged River Red Gum and brass,
second one out of a salvaged mystery dead tree in my old yard, and 316 stainless.
may not be everyones cup of tea- but feel free to offer preferences.
I think I like the materials of the second one (the paler wood) but the shape of the first...
The red gum is great because it is hard as nails- but the red and the brass.... sort of makes me feel like it is a bit better suited to my old wooden boat...
Not to take anything away from our already undervalued River Red Gum (better known as railway sleepers or firewood) but I love this mystery pale timber of mine (have made quite a few tool handles and such out of it)- I suspect it is some sort of fruit tree wood- either way it is beautiful in texture, grain and fragrence- photos just don't do it justice... but then the ballish shape of it isn't as comfortable in the palm as the other one, and the metal ferule is probably a bit big (not to mention the bottom of it -although invisable in use- is buggered up).
Anyway, might be of interest to some- got a preference?
btw, both are simply oiled (no stain or anything) with a homemade Danish oil sort of mix- linseed oil, tung oil, and a dribble of varnish.
Hans,
Beautiful work. I actually like the shape of the paler mystery wood knob but in the Red River Gum and brass. Let me know if you ever feel like doing one up in your spare time as I would be interested in a couple.
Josh and Hans,
Because of all of the help from you guys I have decided to go with the original instrument cluster and not the after market replacements. The gauges look good now and will be what I really want if the LEDs brighten them even a little more. I don't have a cool center console instrument panel like you guys, must be an Aussie thing, so I will still have do something to bring some order to that area of my dash. I'll let you guys know once I figure that out.
Thanks again,
John
P.S. Josh, I love your rig baby!!!
I have absolutely no need for one now but it falls squarely in the category of "if I had all the money in the world I'd have one of these just in case I wanted to ...." Any chance that you could post up some pics of the interior on your thread? John
- Thread starter
- #111
Thanks for the compliments John- Glad you like the River Red Gum. It is one of my favourite timbers.. I mainly get mine from old fence posts and and just random chunks I find. This means it is really old and weathered and has become even harder and properly dimensionally stable.
We've probably paved most of the corner of this countries railway lines in the stuff- thankfully we have now realised that concrete sleepers last longer and are cheaper than the meagre profits gained by further decimating our River Red Gum forests for this- however we still burn it by the truckload for firewood.
I'll see what I can do in a month or so when my workload lightens up. I reckon I should be able to do one for you. You'll just have to let me know the exact size thread that your gear stick is- are you going with the 5 speed? Either way, try out a few nuts on it and figure that out to make sure.
There will be no problem doing the same shape as the paler wood- but the ferule will have to be a bit shorter- ie, probably maximum length would be double that of the one on the red gum one I made. Because I would be working down from a brass plumbing fitting rather than starting with a stainless pipe- it limits my options, and insinsts that the end product will probably be little odd in dimensions.
Also, I am not sure If I will have a brass nut to screw it into (like my red gum one has- I got lucky finding one)- It might have to be steel (invisable in use anyway)- We'll see.
We've probably paved most of the corner of this countries railway lines in the stuff- thankfully we have now realised that concrete sleepers last longer and are cheaper than the meagre profits gained by further decimating our River Red Gum forests for this- however we still burn it by the truckload for firewood.
I'll see what I can do in a month or so when my workload lightens up. I reckon I should be able to do one for you. You'll just have to let me know the exact size thread that your gear stick is- are you going with the 5 speed? Either way, try out a few nuts on it and figure that out to make sure.
There will be no problem doing the same shape as the paler wood- but the ferule will have to be a bit shorter- ie, probably maximum length would be double that of the one on the red gum one I made. Because I would be working down from a brass plumbing fitting rather than starting with a stainless pipe- it limits my options, and insinsts that the end product will probably be little odd in dimensions.
Also, I am not sure If I will have a brass nut to screw it into (like my red gum one has- I got lucky finding one)- It might have to be steel (invisable in use anyway)- We'll see.
Last edited:
4 speed and 2 wipers
IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: hopefully fishing here
TLCA# 13
Posts: 566 This describes my 1981 BJ452 from NZ Exactly,ie 2 wipers ,4 speed,and no roll bar
Welcome, and nice cruiser. Does it have a dash pad? I have seen a few BJ-42s with 4 speed and 2 windshield wipers but they didn't come with dash pads or roll bars. Talk about bringing sand to the beach by importing it into Australia, but I guess lots of Aussie rigs are now in the U.S. now or so it seems.
IH8MUD Addict
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: hopefully fishing here
TLCA# 13
Posts: 566 This describes my 1981 BJ452 from NZ Exactly,ie 2 wipers ,4 speed,and no roll bar
Welcome, and nice cruiser. Does it have a dash pad? I have seen a few BJ-42s with 4 speed and 2 windshield wipers but they didn't come with dash pads or roll bars. Talk about bringing sand to the beach by importing it into Australia, but I guess lots of Aussie rigs are now in the U.S. now or so it seems.
4 speed , 2 wipers ,no roll bar etc
I bought a 1981 BJ42 from NZ and it was made in Japan and shipped to NZ . It seems NZ specs were [at least for 1981 's] 4 speed, no roll bar, no dash pad and 2 wipers
I bought a 1981 BJ42 from NZ and it was made in Japan and shipped to NZ . It seems NZ specs were [at least for 1981 's] 4 speed, no roll bar, no dash pad and 2 wipers
G'day Lads,
The bolt-in dash was a 1983-only feature for the US-spec FJ40's, and a 1982-1984 feature of Aussie-Spec 40 series. I don't know the time-line for NZ spec ones, but I would think that it was similar to Australia-however I've heard rumours (which I cannot verify) that the 40 series ran until 1985 in NZ.
As for the roll bar, as far as I know that was never available in Australian 40 series. In the US, it came in on 1974 model year (along with the amber rear turn signals). The 1981-1983 had an additional pad where the seat belt fastens to the roll bar, and was a lighter shade of grey than the 74-80 roll bars. The padded dash here was definately on all HJ47s and was on all BJ42s in Australia. I believe it came in on 1981 model year across the board, but I am not sure.
As for you John, the bolt-in dash is reversed (as you will see from the photos of my 1984 FJ40 LX and my 1983 FJ40), so you would need to find a LHD one if you wanted the bolt-in dash. They were very common in Central America, and you could certainly find one without too many dramas in Panama. Either Hans or I can get a factory 12 volt clock for you (as one from Panama probably would not have the clock, and if it did it would likely be 24 volt) from here in Australia.
I will get some more photos soon (of the resistors and the interior of my troopie), but I have to buy a new digi camera: mine has karked it. The resistors are very straight-forward though. They are a small aluminium box which is about the size of a tootsie roll. One wire gets solder/shrink wrapped onto the positive wire for the respective turn signal globe, and the other side goes directly to earth (ground). On the front, I simply crimped on an eyelet and bolted it to the body using the 10mm bolt which holds the grille bib on. The only thing you need to be wary of is that these resistors can get hot, so don't use wire ties to hold them on and don't attach them to plastic. I used a small hose clamp, and attaced them to the top of the radiator support rods on either side.
I would love to put a new speed-o in my dash, as I wish I had a trip meter. However, I love the look of the original guages, and so I just can't bring myself to do that. For me, the factory dash holds many nice memories, because my family has had the same FJ40 since I was two years old, and I can remember sitting in that truck and being enamoured of all the little guages since I was a kid. It is a silly reason to keep something stock, but it works for me... good on ya for keeping yours John.
Cheers,
Josh
The bolt-in dash was a 1983-only feature for the US-spec FJ40's, and a 1982-1984 feature of Aussie-Spec 40 series. I don't know the time-line for NZ spec ones, but I would think that it was similar to Australia-however I've heard rumours (which I cannot verify) that the 40 series ran until 1985 in NZ.
As for the roll bar, as far as I know that was never available in Australian 40 series. In the US, it came in on 1974 model year (along with the amber rear turn signals). The 1981-1983 had an additional pad where the seat belt fastens to the roll bar, and was a lighter shade of grey than the 74-80 roll bars. The padded dash here was definately on all HJ47s and was on all BJ42s in Australia. I believe it came in on 1981 model year across the board, but I am not sure.
As for you John, the bolt-in dash is reversed (as you will see from the photos of my 1984 FJ40 LX and my 1983 FJ40), so you would need to find a LHD one if you wanted the bolt-in dash. They were very common in Central America, and you could certainly find one without too many dramas in Panama. Either Hans or I can get a factory 12 volt clock for you (as one from Panama probably would not have the clock, and if it did it would likely be 24 volt) from here in Australia.
I will get some more photos soon (of the resistors and the interior of my troopie), but I have to buy a new digi camera: mine has karked it. The resistors are very straight-forward though. They are a small aluminium box which is about the size of a tootsie roll. One wire gets solder/shrink wrapped onto the positive wire for the respective turn signal globe, and the other side goes directly to earth (ground). On the front, I simply crimped on an eyelet and bolted it to the body using the 10mm bolt which holds the grille bib on. The only thing you need to be wary of is that these resistors can get hot, so don't use wire ties to hold them on and don't attach them to plastic. I used a small hose clamp, and attaced them to the top of the radiator support rods on either side.
I would love to put a new speed-o in my dash, as I wish I had a trip meter. However, I love the look of the original guages, and so I just can't bring myself to do that. For me, the factory dash holds many nice memories, because my family has had the same FJ40 since I was two years old, and I can remember sitting in that truck and being enamoured of all the little guages since I was a kid. It is a silly reason to keep something stock, but it works for me... good on ya for keeping yours John.
Cheers,
Josh
- Thread starter
- #115
Friday night progress report (ramble)...
as it hapened Uni finished for the semester today, and now all I have to do over the next three weeks is start and finish all the work that is due
The washer bottle is in, wired up and working, the blower is in and wired up with a new resistor and working, the heater is in, and just tonight finally finished plumbing in the coolant properly, tested, watertight, and hot and toasty
I had to bend up some pipes to run from the heater core through the firewall- as the the ones I got with the heater had cracked at a bend, and didn't actually fit very well past the very close exhaust manifold on my 3B (might have come from an FJ40? didn't have sharp enough an angle after the firewall)
I tried to find someone today to duplicate some original brass pipes Hamish lent me (from his donor 3B)- in brass, coper, steel... paddle pop sticks- various miscelaneous car places and then where they all steered me- a radiator place... no luck, radiator place said they don't even fab things up in metal anymore- don't even have a pipe bender, just work with and improvise rubber now. They even pulled out every bit of brass pipe they had to see if we could improvise something the lot of it (a few couple of inch bits) all fitted in one hand.
so it was off to a local plumbing trade centre to try to do it myself... got one of those spring pipe benders and a meter of 3/4 annealed copper pipe (first time I have bought copper in a while- even at trade prices it was around $30 for one lousy meter.... wishing I hadn't thrown out the piles of pipe I had a couple of years ago) then got busy with a vise and bending.
I won't say they are perfect... they are far from, but they will do the job, and right now after a polishing on the rouge wheel they look pretty spiffy
All that I am waiting for now is for the central dash panel and the glove box door to come back from the platers... The old place I took it to didn't do any fancy black chromes or anything, so I just went with a satin chrome (they brush the metal before they chrome it, makes it sort of matte finish and hides the imperfections).
If I don't like it then I will just powdercoat or paint it at a later date.
When they are ready within a week then I can put the dash back on and reconnect all the switches and knobs and stereo, properly install the plastic under-dash air ducting I got from Hamish... and then it will be off for a RWC... I do hope they don't want me to do too much more.
Almost there.
as it hapened Uni finished for the semester today, and now all I have to do over the next three weeks is start and finish all the work that is due
The washer bottle is in, wired up and working, the blower is in and wired up with a new resistor and working, the heater is in, and just tonight finally finished plumbing in the coolant properly, tested, watertight, and hot and toasty
I had to bend up some pipes to run from the heater core through the firewall- as the the ones I got with the heater had cracked at a bend, and didn't actually fit very well past the very close exhaust manifold on my 3B (might have come from an FJ40? didn't have sharp enough an angle after the firewall)
I tried to find someone today to duplicate some original brass pipes Hamish lent me (from his donor 3B)- in brass, coper, steel... paddle pop sticks
- various miscelaneous car places and then where they all steered me- a radiator place... no luck, radiator place said they don't even fab things up in metal anymore- don't even have a pipe bender, just work with and improvise rubber now. They even pulled out every bit of brass pipe they had to see if we could improvise something the lot of it (a few couple of inch bits) all fitted in one hand. so it was off to a local plumbing trade centre to try to do it myself... got one of those spring pipe benders and a meter of 3/4 annealed copper pipe (first time I have bought copper in a while
- even at trade prices it was around $30 for one lousy meter.... wishing I hadn't thrown out the piles of pipe I had a couple of years ago) then got busy with a vise and bending.I won't say they are perfect... they are far from, but they will do the job, and right now after a polishing on the rouge wheel they look pretty spiffy
All that I am waiting for now is for the central dash panel and the glove box door to come back from the platers... The old place I took it to didn't do any fancy black chromes or anything, so I just went with a satin chrome (they brush the metal before they chrome it, makes it sort of matte finish and hides the imperfections).
If I don't like it then I will just powdercoat or paint it at a later date.
When they are ready within a week then I can put the dash back on and reconnect all the switches and knobs and stereo, properly install the plastic under-dash air ducting I got from Hamish... and then it will be off for a RWC... I do hope they don't want me to do too much more.
Almost there.
Common then John, get the photos up. The heater install sounds like something we all need to see photos of, and I can't wait to see how the dash turns out. If you get really stuck for anything, you can always get is sent over from Specter in the US (www.sor.com) They will certainly have it, as they buy everything they can find from the wreckers here and around the world.
Cheers,
Josh
The heater install sounds like something we all need to see photos of, and I can't wait to see how the dash turns out. If you get really stuck for anything, you can always get is sent over from Specter in the US (www.sor.com) They will certainly have it, as they buy everything they can find from the wreckers here and around the world.Cheers,
Josh
- Thread starter
- #117
Cheers Josh,
I'm hanging to see the Dash too... a little anxiously as I am worried is going to look a little wrong They said it would be done BY Friday, hopefully earlier, so I am hoping for a call any day now.
I'll try to get some photos of my heater install up tonight- its nothing fancy though.
Somehow with all the recent wiring my turn signals aren't working anymore, so I am going to try to figure that one out today, plus I've got to get some heat shrink stuff to finish off the wiring I have done.
My girl has just left for Thailand yesterday with all her girlfriends for 3 weeks (left me home to slave and grumble over all my home work)- and she took her digi camera- so the heater install photos will have to from my mobile phone camera.
Oh yeah, and I am Hans, Jabxyz is John
The only major thing now I can think of that I may get picked for (for RWC) is not having an EDIC. But as I am taking it first to a guy who doesnot know or work on Diesel engines, hopefully he won't even know about it?
I've got the 'manual EDIC' working properly now so that it stays out when pulled out... and it is starting just fine now, so I am in no rush to put one in.
More later.
Its misty and cold here in Melbourne and still feels like 8:30 AM, but I really should get started for the day plus my coffee has run out.
Hans.
I'm hanging to see the Dash too... a little anxiously as I am worried is going to look a little wrong
They said it would be done BY Friday, hopefully earlier, so I am hoping for a call any day now.I'll try to get some photos of my heater install up tonight- its nothing fancy though.
Somehow with all the recent wiring my turn signals aren't working anymore, so I am going to try to figure that one out today, plus I've got to get some heat shrink stuff to finish off the wiring I have done.
My girl has just left for Thailand yesterday with all her girlfriends for 3 weeks (left me home to slave and grumble over all my home work)- and she took her digi camera- so the heater install photos will have to from my mobile phone camera.
Oh yeah, and I am Hans, Jabxyz is John
The only major thing now I can think of that I may get picked for (for RWC) is not having an EDIC. But as I am taking it first to a guy who doesnot know or work on Diesel engines, hopefully he won't even know about it?
I've got the 'manual EDIC' working properly now so that it stays out when pulled out... and it is starting just fine now, so I am in no rush to put one in.
More later.
Its misty and cold here in Melbourne and still feels like 8:30 AM, but I really should get started for the day
plus my coffee has run out.Hans.
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Hans,folks are starting to notice that we are beginning to look alike, probably some weird osmosis based on the fact that we each purchased roughly the same vehicle just a couple of weeks apart.
John
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Hans,Cheers Josh,
I'm hanging to see the Dash too... a little anxiously as I am worried is going to look a little wrong
I'll try to get some photos of my heater install up tonight- its nothing fancy though.
Somehow with all the recent wiring my turn signals aren't working anymore, so I am going to try to figure that one out today, plus I've got to get some heat shrink stuff to finish off the wiring I have done.
My girl has just left for Thailand yesterday with all her girlfriends for 3 weeks (left me home to slave and grumble over all my home work)- and she took her digi camera- so the heater install photos will have to from my mobile phone camera.
Oh yeah, and I am Hans, Jabxyz is John
The only major thing now I can think of that I may get picked for (for RWC) is not having an EDIC. But as I am taking it first to a guy who doesnot know or work on Diesel engines, hopefully he won't even know about it?
I've got the 'manual EDIC' working properly now so that it stays out when pulled out... and it is starting just fine now, so I am in no rush to put one in.
More later.
Its misty and cold here in Melbourne and still feels like 8:30 AM, but I really should get started for the day
Hans.
You are doing great!
You are getting stuff done as I sit on my butt waiting for more crap to come in the post. I definitely want to see how you plumbed out the heating. I am shamelessly stealing ideas from you and Josh, e.g., the instrument panel. Anyway keep rolling. 
John
