2001LC
SILVER Star
My first choice would be DM bottled water. Even CO tap water has a fair amount of minerals in it.
Heater T's failure - fixed with PEX t's
- Thread starter Scottb4857
- Start date
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E42k miles,on the pex T's with regular screw,clamps and no issues from them. Did drive it for a day and made sure the clamps were still tight. Check them every so often and still tight.
Can someone take a pic that is a bit farther back, so I can locate these Tees? My 100 has been sitting and I want to do this swap-out before I take her out on a camping trip later this week.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #46
Sitting here bored tonight and seeing an update on heater t's. Just for fun thought I'd update this thread. PEX t's still in, 2 more years in place with original clamps, 50,000 miles total. Haven't had to add any coolant, system performing perfectly including the rear heater. In my very unqualified opinion I think the PEX brass t's work just fine. Happy wheeling all!
IF re-using your old hoses then PEX t's (3/4 x 3/4 x 1/2) should work fine. I'd be leery of 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 since the upper hoses are larger than the lowers.
I used these instead of PEX, but in a pinch...I can see where PEX could work for you.
I think the OP used 3/4” on all 3 hoses for each T. Can someone confirm if this works or do i need 1/2” on the bottom. Just bought the 3/4” same as original post.
The bottom hoses are smaller than the tops. IF you are reusing you original hoses...they will be slightly 'belled' at the ends from the previous T's. So...forcing the top ones on should be no problem (mine weren't). In fact... the reason I chose the over-sized T's was so I would have a good tight fit. But for the bottom hoses...trying to force a 3/4" T into what is likely a 9/16" hose I.D. might prove a chore.
If others have done it...then we have proof it 'can' be achieved, but I suppose it will depend on how supple your hoses are. I would think trying to source T's that are more properly sized would be better.
- Thread starter
- #50
I used the exact ones from the first picture. It really wasn't hard at all. The bottom one was a little snug, the top not so much and definitely needs a clamp to keep from leaking due to the pressure in the system. As someone suggested maybe use the lined/smooth clamps instead of the regular like I did, but I don't think it really matters. I've left them the exact same way as when I did the repair in Feb 2015. Went out and checked when I saw this thread. Still looks exactly the same as when installed, no leaks, and haven't had to add coolant the entire time. At this point I refuse to change them just to see how long they last. I suspect though that the hoses will just disintegrate long before the clamp and t will wear out.
Thanks for those steel T's. on order
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After reading this thread i swapswapped my brittle tees for these brass pex tees from home depot. My truck (2002) had 173k on it when i did it. Im glad i did because one of my tees was brittle and broke easily when removing it. Even if the brass reacts slightly (i dont think it will too much if at all)-- i will be doing my timing belt/water pump in 20k which requires a coolant replacement... And shortly after that i will prob be replacing my original radiator due to its age and me wanting peace of mind (that's another coolant replacment). If i remember or care to. I should test the coolant that i take out during these p.m tasks... Honestly ill probably forget. If the op has 50k and 2 years on his--- ill keep my peace of mind... Another 30-40k he will be doing his tb/wp and have fresh fluid anyways.
- Thread starter
- #55
Updating this very old thread - LC now has 340k, 102k more than when I replaced the T's with the PEX. Happy to report I haven't touched the clamps, t's or hoses in all this time and still working just fine. Honestly I haven't even changed the coolant in this time and have maybe added a couple of pints in 102k miles. Drained it all today in getting ready to change the timing belt and water pump again. Coolant looking a little worn, but honestly not bad. Summary is that the PEX T's were a smashing success and planning on getting another 100k miles from them!
Doesn't look like anyone has answered this. Pretty sure heater cores are aluminum, the tubes coming through the firewall which are part of the heater core are soft aluminum. Don't squeeze those heater hoses near the firewall or you will be un-smashing those tubes.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Good timing in here, I need to do timing belt and water pump soon on the 100...
Maybe. I'm sure it depends on the use and environment.
Mine crumbled at 17 yrs and 185K miles but that's when they failed, not when they were significantly degraded. But they don't go 20 years and suddenly go 'bad'. They are deteriorating before that.
Your point is well taken though...that the OEM's seem to last a reasonable amount of time. But the way mine literally crumbled was enough to cause me concern. So I replaced mine with metal which will NOT fail if l live another 50 years.
But its each person's decision. Just replace with them SOMETHING if they've never been done.
what size clamp is works for this?.
looking for the smooth one (not the worm clamp)
3/4 clamp size or I should go bigger?
or this one?
Amazon link
looking for the smooth one (not the worm clamp)
3/4 clamp size or I should go bigger?
or this one?
Amazon link
