Heater T's failure - fixed with PEX t's

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Joined
Oct 7, 2014
Threads
18
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186
Location
Columbia, SC
After all the posts on the bad heater t's had on my list of things to change soon. Had this on my mind while at the local Lowe's and thought to check if they had the appropriate size brass t's. These looked like the right size and thought for $3 or so each wouldn't be out much even I forgot to bring them back.
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Tonight when I got home pulled the engine cover and saw this:

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Not looking too good and evidence of a small leak. So I reached in to see how much play there was in there to get pliers on the clamps. Barely touch the tee and this is what I saw next:

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Luckily the engine had cooled down enough I didn't get burned from the coolant gushing out. Time for repair - like others have said not really hard but pain in the a-- getting at all those clamps. Too make it a bit easier I just folded a camp blanket on top of the engine and just laid down on it.

Just for fun - here is what the old clamps looked like:

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Used a shop vac to suck some coolant from the hose and make sure I had all the little pieces. Used the PEX connector along with regularly hose clamps. Fit was just about perfect - the hoses running down to the rear heater were a perfect fit. The upper hose were a little less snug but given the design on the brass I'm certain they will not leak.

Final look prior to taking the flush t back out. Was already planning on doing a complete flush when I did this so already had the flush kit.
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Actual time to install the brass t's was maybe 60 minutes - 35 of that spent cleaning the broken pieces out of the lines. Next 4 hours spent flushing the motor and draining and refilling the system several times with distilled water to displace most of the tap water. One final drain of the radiator and oil cooler line then added 2 gallons Toyota red.

Anyway - A couple of the 3/4 PEX connectors from Lowe's and two 4 packs of clamps from Autozone and I'm back together. Total cost of hardware about $11.

Happy wheeling!
 
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Nice write up. I have OEM t's sitting in a box in the garage. I should really look into doing this sooner than later. My 04' is at 147k now. All these t threads are staring to make me paranoid.
 
If the hose isnt tight, they might leak under pressure.
I'd second this. I bought hoses for both my 100's, and one set of OEM T's, and one set of brass ones. I did my '04 last Thursday, and the brass T's have the same diameter all around, whereas (as you indicated) the lower hose out of the T is a smaller diameter. I went with the OEM T's. Just clicked over 180K miles, and the hot side was just barely starting to disintegrate at the far edges of the T. I'm not sure I would trust the hose clamps to be a long-term fix. Should do just fine until you can get some OEM ones. Or, at least that's what I'd do... :cheers:
 
Thanks for the warning, I'll check them regularly for leaks. For the record, this was on a 99 LC with 238k miles. As bad as they were po should have replaced 85k miles ago.
 
Where did you get the flush t? Thanks for the pex tip too!
 
Flush t was part of a prestone flush kit, available Wal-Mart or just about any auto parts store. Think it was $7 at Wal-Mart. Instructions say to cut the heater hose to install, I preferred the suggestion of another mudder and added a small section of 5/8 hose so I can then remove the t when done flushing.
 
I removed the three hoses and T as a group to help prevent the pieces from breaking off into the system. Then I put together my assembly of new hoses and T, and installed that in the truck..

You need to replace hoses every so many years, might as well put in new factory T's at the same time. I replaced the set with new on my LC and doing the LX this weekend. The idea of "permanent T fittings" doesn't solve the entire problem....
 
^^^^
True enough - and will need to go through all the little hoses on the LC in the near future - my point was able to repair the truck quickly, easily, and cheaply when didn't have access to parts department and such.
 
^^^^
True enough - and will need to go through all the little hoses on the LC in the near future - my point was able to repair the truck quickly, easily, and cheaply when didn't have access to parts department and such.

Got it ! We do what we gotta do when we have to !
 
Nice
Im planning to do mine later.
Any suggestion/tips for if the Ts brake in the hose and how to remove pieces form inside the hoses?
 
Nice
Im planning to do mine later.
Any suggestion/tips for if the Ts brake in the hose and how to remove pieces form inside the hoses?
Mine never broke, but I'd guess a pliers to crush any pieces in the hose, and a dental pick to pick out the broken pieces. Rinse with water and dry with compressed air.

Steve
 
I didn't want to have to remove the hoses from the other end so I just used a wet/dry shop vac with a small tube attachment to vacuum out the pieces. Didn't care about the antifreeze being lost since it was being flushed and replaced anyway.

Other option is to just remove the hoses from the other end before taking the heater t-pieces out.

Good luck either way!

Update - little over a month since installing - not a drop of leak from the tees.
 
98 LC 207K miles. When I bought the car last week, I notice that there was evident of small leaks on both T's. I am replacing both T's and all of the hoses today. It is much easier to replace the hoses by cutting them instead of pulling to get them off the pipe. Mine were all stuck to the pipe. I use a serrated knife to cut the hoses.

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I love PEX! The T should be sturdy enough I would think. Couple of thoughts: one, is it obvious that the coolant and brass will play nice? Also, seems like you used regular clamps, some pretty tight. Looks like they may be chewing up the hose some. You may want to look at clamps that have a solid inner sleeve to help with the latter if it's an issue.
 
Couple of thoughts: one, is it obvious that the coolant and brass will play nice?

This cross my mind too. I think brass should be ok, but I am not an alloy/metal expert here. I use it because I just dont have time to go to the dealer which is across town, and Lowes is just right down the street. The T had a small leak and I was afraid it will burst open since the car has 207K miles.
 
they do have brass radiators out there, so it's probably OK with most (all?) coolants. Of course, one thing to do would be to look at the T's inside after some time and see if there is anything odd looking (although that is not a comprehensive test of course).
 
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