Heater hose Tees...

[Ali FJ80]

So this thread made me curious on mine as it just passed 200k and I had a set on hand so swapped them out. The originals looked aged but were still quite intact. I think with proper maintenance the T's on the 200s seem to do a bit better than the 100. I know mine looked a lot worse when I changed them on my 100s. Part of it may also bee how the vehicle is used and how hard and how often the cooling system is pushed.

 

[2001LC]

Pull the T out of the old hose and compare the measurements to a 100 series T: are they the same specs? Same part?

Markings on the T - PA66-30GF= (Nylon 6-6 with 30% Glass Fill). You might see swelling over time but heat and cool cycles will affect plastics chemical properties over time.

Those T’s at 10 years look pretty damn good, some drying but not discolored badly. The T from a 100 series at 10 years would look washed out rusty red color; which my guess is due more to heat than anything, not the type of coolant. Still a prudent idea to replace at this interval IMO.

So whats different in the 5.7 cooling circuit from the 4.7- Im sure the coolant temps are similar but plumbing may be different- probably worthy of discussion on another thread.

I can tell you without measuring, the tees are different. The 100s have one (lower/rear heater) tube is smaller than the two other tubes of each tee, whereas the 200s all are same at ~17mm tubes.

I agree they did look good. Ali's ~10yr old tees, look more like my 01LC at 165K miles and 16 years. Whereas all 06-07 tees I've done have not looked as good.

Interesting, the original 200s factory tees and the alternative (sub PN #) replacement tee had identical marks "179" just as @Ali FJ80 picture above shows. But the OEM Toyota supplied Tee assembly (with hoses) had a different number on tees.

I saw only two differences in piping between 100 to 200 series;

• As I mentioned; tees sit at a low spot in the 200s, making less likely to ever sit out of coolant and in an air pocket. Is this planned by Toyota or just how it turned out to fit in engine compartment. IDK, but "planned" conforms to my thinking that the plastic age faster when not constantly submerged in coolant.
• The hose that sit the highest has a reducer in it.

Why Toyota does not give a PN # for just Tee's, and only gives one for the complet assembly, I can only speculate:

• Whenever a used hose is removed and then reused, likelihood of leak goes up.
• They may feel if plastic bad, rubber not far behind.
• It could have in part to do with reducer, another plastic part.

One thing for-sure it better to change sooner than later.

 

[hankinid]

Why Toyota does not give a PN # for just Tee's, and only gives one for the complet assembly, I can only speculate:

• Whenever a used hose is removed and then reused, likelihood of leak goes up.
• They may feel if plastic bad, rubber not far behind.
• It could have in part to do with reducer, another plastic part.

One thing for-sure it better to change sooner than later.

PN for the T's is 87248-80830, description is PIPE, WATER. ~ $9.00 each from my dealer that typically doesn't discount.

Likelihood of a leak may go up, silicone grease on the T and hose may mitigate that due to ease of assembly. Oem hose spring clips are definitely reusable.

Not sure if the reducer is removable as I have yet to change mine.

hth

Steve

 

[2001LC]

PN for the T's is 87248-80830, description is PIPE, WATER. ~ $9.00 each from my dealer that typically doesn't discount.

Likelihood of a leak may go up, silicone grease on the T and hose may mitigate that due to ease of assembly. Oem hose spring clips are definitely reusable.

Not sure if the reducer is removable as I have yet to change mine.

hth

Steve

Good to hear from you Steve, I've missed you in the 100s section.

I think you may have a typo in PN#, OP has as 87248-08030 for the sub PN# (water pipe), which my local Toyota Parts Dep has at $12.13 retail list. I did have those and the OEM assembly 87209-60C01 $67.43, 87209-60C12 $75.77 retail list plus tax and driving time to pick up $$$. Which all are cheaper online at a number of location.

I find soapy (Dove) dish water is great for assembly of water pipes when need, which I didn't in this case.

Using the substitute tees would've probably been ok. But this was not my rig, so I can't keep and eye on for leaks. Once I found OD different, a red flag went up. I'm regretting not pulling new OEM hose assembly apart and measure OD one of those tee's, but not mine to play with.

Why Toyota only sell assembly, who knows.
We run into stuff like ball joint, rack mounting bushing, 03+ starter contacts & plugger, etc. in the 100 series we can't get individual parts to rebuild. In those, Toyota considers to difficult or to time consume to just replace a part, rather than the whole assembly. Which in this case I can't see either to be the case

 

[NDizzle]

is this the correct size and good brand? https://www.amazon.com/PEX-Inch-Bar...02138&sr=8-1#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div

Willy B, did you end up using this part to replace your heater hose Ts?

 

[Cruisin911]

I ended up replacing both mine on my 2011 with 60k. Saw zero degradation of the plastic. Used these metal ones.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-...8&qid=1534637305&sr=1-1&keywords=dorman+56387

 

[bmwjnky]

I would prefer to put brass ones in my truck. What size T is the right one? I'd like to do it in the next couple days as I'll be driving almost 800 miles over the holiday weekend coming up.

 

[Cruisin911]

Why brass? As far as size, the amazon link I posted is the correct part. Just need 2 of them.

 

[bmwjnky]

Why brass? As far as size, the amazon link I posted is the correct part. Just need 2 of them.

So it's one less piece of plastic in the cooling system. I get the OE ones held up well but I'd prefer metal parts over plastic

 

[bryson]

So it's one less piece of plastic in the cooling system. I get the OE ones held up well but I'd prefer metal parts over plastic

The ones in the Amazon link are steel and work great. If you want brass, just order a 3-way brass tee in 5/8" and you should be set.

 

[Cruisin911]

So it's one less piece of plastic in the cooling system. I get the OE ones held up well but I'd prefer metal parts over plastic

Thats my point. The ones I posted are metal. I was trying to figure out why you preferred the brass to the regular metal ones.

 

[haloseven]

i bought these part numbers for my 100 series on accident, so i have two available. just grabbed stainless ones from oreilly since they had them on hand.

 

[CharlieS]

Maybe a stupid question... Does the 200 have a similar issue to the 100 series heater hose plastic tees?

Answer: yes, this was a stupid question. I used the search function and answered my own question. Sorry all. Rookie move on my part. Have a great day.

I ordered two Dorman metal tees and some Breeze clamps.

 

[bloc]

Just another data point: my 2013 Ts with ~128k on them looked absolutely mint condition when I pulled them out. Ended up reinstalling as they seemed slightly higher quality than the new toyota parts I got.

 

[campoj2]

Looking to swap out the T's (w/brass) AND hoses, does anyone have the P/Ns for the hoses??

 

[ewrk1989]

Just to add info for reference (hope we can get as much documented on the 200 series as we have on the 100 series). New to me 2011 has ~125,000 miles and has been very well taken care of by the PO. Couple of dealer-serviced coolant exchanges so presumably all Toyota fluid for reference. I believe my hoses and tees were original. Decided to replace with the complete hose/tee assemblies, just re-used the necessary clamps. Here are my tees looking in very good condition. No cracks, very strong, just slight residue on the exterior. For anyone doing the remove/replace, I lost approximately 6oz of coolant. Overflow tank was slightly high so I just left it as is.

 

[browntown]

Hi, I need to replace my tees. Should you do a Coolant flush when you replace the tees? Just bought the truck a few weeks ago and don’t know much about what service was done prior.
Also should you do the plugs at the same time as well? Or how do you know when you should

I have a 2000 with 240k on it

thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Baseline it. That means replace all fluids. I only use Toyota OEM TEES, Toyota LL (red) coolant 100% mixed with distilled water 50/50 mix. I'd also replace thermostat, thermostat O-ring (torque thermostat cap nuts to 13ft-lbf) and radiator cap. Make sure to burp the system. Simple fill, drive with cabin (both) heater set to hot. Park vehicle with front end higher than rear (best) or level. Cool down for 8 hours and top radiator. Repeat each morning until no more coolant is needed. Set reservoir to high mark after each topping in the summer time, mid way or low line went very cold OAT (outside air temp).

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[bloc]

Hi, I need to replace my tees. Should you do a Coolant flush when you replace the tees? Just bought the truck a few weeks ago and don’t know much about what service was done prior.
Also should you do the plugs at the same time as well? Or how do you know when you should

I have a 2000 with 240k on it

thanks!

It is best not to “flush” the cooling system but simply drain and refill. Anything you put in there other than coolant will end up diluting your final coolant mix unless you go to great lengths to get it ALL out.
Toyota coolant comes pre-mixed also. Just dump the oof stuff and refill, with 2001LC’s advice being good for getting all the air out.

 

[War330]

I ended up replacing both mine on my 2011 with 60k. Saw zero degradation of the plastic. Used these metal ones.

Amazon product ASIN B000COBB52

Went to Home Depot no luck called Ace hardware same thing. Thanx for posting this I had one just fail the other day luckily I smelled coolant and checked. Replacing both with the metal ones. 2008 160,000 miles