I found this place and ordered 2 ($8.70 each) with only ~$5 shipping. Doesn't seem to bad.
Pipe Water - Toyota (87248-08030) | TRDToyotapar
Pipe Water - Toyota (87248-08030) | TRDToyotapar
Heater hose Tees... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter marques
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Do factory heater t's get crumbly? You bet 
We were installing a Helton hot shower system on a customers 200 Series today, these were the results.
He's not sporting new tees and a shower heat exchanger
We were installing a Helton hot shower system on a customers 200 Series today, these were the results. He's not sporting new tees and a shower heat exchanger
I spy new cooper AT3 XLTs on that rig... Looks great. What size are those? Looks like 17" Icon Six Speeds, so I'm guessing 285 75 17?
And to keep it relevant, my original heater Ts looked not quite as bad as the ones Kurt showed above but were crumbly on my 2008 with 200k miles. I think as these rigs age, we'll see more posts of failures going forward like is all over the 100 series board.
And to keep it relevant, my original heater Ts looked not quite as bad as the ones Kurt showed above but were crumbly on my 2008 with 200k miles. I think as these rigs age, we'll see more posts of failures going forward like is all over the 100 series board.
I used the metal Ts referenced earlier in this thread. I'm sure the plastic linked would have been fine too, but I put metal in my 100 series with no issues, so I decided to do the same on this one.
Went with the Metal Ts as well (Dorman) and Breeze Stainless Constant Torque Clamps. Worked well for my 200.
Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200
Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200
Kurt did an excellent job installing the Helton. Can't wait to use it. And, yes the Ts were shot.
Those are the new Cooper AT3 XLTs..Doing some product testing for Cooper and OutdoorX4 Magazine. Happy thus far with the ride on and off pavement! The tires should be out later this summer.
Those are the new Cooper AT3 XLTs..Doing some product testing for Cooper and OutdoorX4 Magazine. Happy thus far with the ride on and off pavement! The tires should be out later this summer.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Can someone please save me some time, and tell how to release these plastic hose retain clamps?
I'm helping out a Local mud member baselining his 08LX. I've got the tees, also have the hose assembly on hand just in case. I've not dealt with this type of clamp before. What's the trick to releasing?
I'm helping out a Local mud member baselining his 08LX. I've got the tees, also have the hose assembly on hand just in case. I've not dealt with this type of clamp before. What's the trick to releasing?
2001LC
SILVER Star
We think so, with only 88K on the clock.
BTW: I just did and 07 w/64K and the hot side tee fell apart.
BTW: I just did and 07 w/64K and the hot side tee fell apart.
If I remember right, you just need to stick a flat head screwdriver in the left hand, top side of the clamp and pull on the back of it. Should just hinge back then.
Im really surprised that someone like @cruiseroutfit hasnt come up with thier own billet aluminum aftermarket T option. As a plastic cooling system part its def necessary to replace at least 90k as we’ve seen how they age and fall apart- the result if not caught can obviously be catastrophic.
I can think of a custom heater T option with a flow sensor and cabin mounted warning light would do well in aftermarket sales.(at least on the 200&100 forums)
Got mine on the way... this thread scared me into it. I'll change it out in the next couple of weeks and let you know what mine looks like. 08 with 137k.
I’ve been on this site too long I have had too many land cruisers I remember replacing on my 80 series and my 100 series now I have a 200 service but I’m a long ways from replacement. I remember replacing on the 80 was a bitch
Ordered mine earlier this week. Ill too post up what i find 08 145,000+
2001LC
SILVER Star
The figure 8 hose stabilizing clamps have retainer clips on each side that I ended up prying out one side at a time as I continuously pried up, mirror came in handy for this. Now I just needed to grow a third hand to work on the 200 series...LOL.
I wonder if Toyota has a tool to release these?
Just prying up may have worked, but may break retainers as they age and become brittle.
I could have probably remove Tee without releasing this clamp, but the extra play in hose came in handy. This was a learning experience for me which added time to job.
After removing the Tee, I measured OD and compared to new substitute PN # tee. I found old tee was ~0.10mm larger OD (17mm) than new sub PN # (16.90mm). I can't say if old tee was swollen or new sub tee just has a smaller OD. But I elected to replace with Toyota OEM assembly (hoses & tees). For ~$100 buck more why not, and now I know it's good for next 10 yr or 90K miles or more. @abuck99 gave me the same opinion and he knows his plastics.
I did not pull tees from new OEM assemblies to compare OD. As I didn't want to disturb clamps, hoses or tees if using as this is not my 08LX w/88K miles. Nore disturb if returning to Toyota parts department. I may check, when I do my 200 series just to see if they're ~17mm OD as old.
Removing the whole assembly made removing the figure 8 hoses clamps much easier but still a pain. I'd not remove assembly if not replacing, as I never like disturbing hoses needlessly.
Hose end clamps and figure 8 stabilizing clamp needed to be moved to new assembly.
The tee actually looked pretty good but was showing some signs of age & weep.
This is after cleaning and drying overnight. I can see early sign of drying out, which is first stage of failure IMHO.
I believe these are made from same plastic as the 100 series, also same coolant is used. So why am I seeing all 06-07 100 series (not done 03-05) with from ~60K to 200K miles hot side tees falling apart! Could one or two years make this much difference. I do think time makes some difference in condition, obviously. But I've been thinking for some time now, that anytime our coolant system plastic is out of the coolant the plasticizer dries out. This is why tops of radiator and tess get so bad. That out plastic become soaked in coolant, and that coolant has a plasticizer in it.
The 98-02 100 series use Toyota LL (red) coolant that must be flushed every two years or 30K miles. These system I find tees in better condition after 16 years and 200K miles, why?
BTW: I think 10 yr/100K miles is just to long for a coolant. That the plasticizer is depleted before then.
So why then is the 5.7L of the 200 series tees looking better which has same coolant and plastic and recommended flush cycle. IMHO it's because these tees are not at a high point in the 200 series system, as they are in the 100 series. Notice both tee have a hose that loops up above the tee. Air pockets would form there more so than at tee. At least in a system that's properly maintain and keep topped with coolant..
My two cents
I wonder if Toyota has a tool to release these?
Just prying up may have worked, but may break retainers as they age and become brittle.
I could have probably remove Tee without releasing this clamp, but the extra play in hose came in handy. This was a learning experience for me which added time to job.
After removing the Tee, I measured OD and compared to new substitute PN # tee. I found old tee was ~0.10mm larger OD (17mm) than new sub PN # (16.90mm). I can't say if old tee was swollen or new sub tee just has a smaller OD. But I elected to replace with Toyota OEM assembly (hoses & tees). For ~$100 buck more why not, and now I know it's good for next 10 yr or 90K miles or more. @abuck99 gave me the same opinion and he knows his plastics.
I did not pull tees from new OEM assemblies to compare OD. As I didn't want to disturb clamps, hoses or tees if using as this is not my 08LX w/88K miles. Nore disturb if returning to Toyota parts department. I may check, when I do my 200 series just to see if they're ~17mm OD as old.
Removing the whole assembly made removing the figure 8 hoses clamps much easier but still a pain. I'd not remove assembly if not replacing, as I never like disturbing hoses needlessly.
Hose end clamps and figure 8 stabilizing clamp needed to be moved to new assembly.
The tee actually looked pretty good but was showing some signs of age & weep.
This is after cleaning and drying overnight. I can see early sign of drying out, which is first stage of failure IMHO.
I believe these are made from same plastic as the 100 series, also same coolant is used. So why am I seeing all 06-07 100 series (not done 03-05) with from ~60K to 200K miles hot side tees falling apart! Could one or two years make this much difference. I do think time makes some difference in condition, obviously. But I've been thinking for some time now, that anytime our coolant system plastic is out of the coolant the plasticizer dries out. This is why tops of radiator and tess get so bad. That out plastic become soaked in coolant, and that coolant has a plasticizer in it.
The 98-02 100 series use Toyota LL (red) coolant that must be flushed every two years or 30K miles. These system I find tees in better condition after 16 years and 200K miles, why?
BTW: I think 10 yr/100K miles is just to long for a coolant. That the plasticizer is depleted before then.
So why then is the 5.7L of the 200 series tees looking better which has same coolant and plastic and recommended flush cycle. IMHO it's because these tees are not at a high point in the 200 series system, as they are in the 100 series. Notice both tee have a hose that loops up above the tee. Air pockets would form there more so than at tee. At least in a system that's properly maintain and keep topped with coolant..
My two cents
Pull the T out of the old hose and compare the measurements to a 100 series T: are they the same specs? Same part?The figure 8 hose stabilizing clamps have retainer clips on each side that I ended up prying out one side at a time as I continuously pried up, mirror came in handy for this. Now I just needed to grow a third hand to work on the 200 series...LOL.
I wonder if Toyota has a tool to release these?
Just prying up may have worked, but may break retainers as they age and become brittle.
I could have probably remove Tee without releasing this clamp, but the extra play in hose came in handy. This was a learning experience for me which added time to job.
View attachment 1764188
After removing the Tee, I measured OD and compared to new substitute PN # tee. I found old tee was ~0.10mm larger OD (17mm) than new sub PN # (16.90mm). I can't say if old tee was swollen or new sub tee just has a smaller OD. But I elected to replace with Toyota OEM assembly (hoses & tees). For ~$100 buck more why not, and now I know it's good for next 10 yr or 90K miles or more. @abuck99 gave me the same opinion and he knows his plastics.
I did not pull tees from new OEM assemblies to compare OD. As I didn't want to disturb clamps, hoses or tees if using as this is not my 08LX w/88K miles. Nore disturb if returning to Toyota parts department. I may check, when I do my 200 series just to see if they're ~17mm OD as old.
Removing the whole assembly made removing the figure 8 hoses clamps much easier but still a pain. I'd not remove assembly if not replacing, as I never like disturbing hoses needlessly.
Hose end clamps and figure 8 stabilizing clamp needed to be moved to new assembly.
View attachment 1764190
The tee actually looked pretty good but was showing some signs of age & weep.
View attachment 1764195
This is after cleaning and drying overnight. I can see early sign of drying out, which is first stage of failure IMHO.
View attachment 1764196
I believe these are made from same plastic as the 100 series, also same coolant is used. So why am I seeing all 06-07 100 series (not done 03-05) with from ~60K to 200K miles hot side tees falling apart! Could one or two years make this much difference. I do think time makes some difference in condition, obviously. But I've been thinking for some time now, that anytime our coolant system plastic is out of the coolant the plasticizer dries out. This is why tops of radiator and tess get so bad. That out plastic become soaked in coolant, and that coolant has a plasticizer in it.
The 98-02 100 series use Toyota LL (red) coolant that must be flushed every two years or 30K miles. These system I find tees in better condition after 16 years and 200K miles, why?
BTW: I think 10 yr/100K miles is just to long for a coolant. That the plasticizer is depleted before then.
So why then is the 5.7L of the 200 series tees looking better which has same coolant and plastic and recommended flush cycle. IMHO it's because these tees are not at a high point in the 200 series system, as they are in the 100 series. Notice both tee have a hose that loops up above the tee. Air pockets would form there more so than at tee. At least in a system that's properly maintain and keep topped with coolant..
View attachment 1764201
My two cents
Markings on the T - PA66-30GF= (Nylon 6-6 with 30% Glass Fill). You might see swelling over time but heat and cool cycles will affect plastics chemical properties over time.
Those T’s at 10 years look pretty damn good, some drying but not discolored badly. The T from a 100 series at 10 years would look washed out rusty red color; which my guess is due more to heat than anything, not the type of coolant. Still a prudent idea to replace at this interval IMO.
So whats different in the 5.7 cooling circuit from the 4.7- Im sure the coolant temps are similar but plumbing may be different- probably worthy of discussion on another thread.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
It's not only the heat, but the steam/gasses. PA66+GF35 is not very high up on the food chain of high performance Zytel Plastics.
How much coolant leaks when the tees are replaced without draining the system?
If you're careful, around a cup max spilled for me. It'll collect in your skid plate so you may want to remove that and catch it.
