red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Hi everyone,
Tis the season for AC woes... soon it will be back to heater woes and our air delivery systems are OLD now! They can definitely use some help at this point. I recently decided to redo the entire air system in my FJ62, this included everything coming out and getting all new foam seals throughout. It was hard to find into here on MUD in one source and some foam I had to figure out from other sites. So here it is!
For the duct joints:
Low Density Foam Tape, 1/2-by-3/4-Inch
Amazon.com: M-D Building Products 2113 Low Density Foam Tape, 1/2-by-3/4-Inch by 17 Feet, Gray: M-D BUILDING PRODUCTS: Home Improvement
This low density (open cell foam) is perfect for sealing the duct joints as the plastic is irregular and thin and this puts a nice low pressure seal that conforms to the shapes well. 1/2" by 1/2" open cell foam would also work well.
For the blend door and flap in the heater box and the blower box:
I used a polyester open cell foam, I found it as acoustical foam at a foam shop. 12"x4' cost me $3, I bought way too much but wanted to be sure I had enough for mistakes. 1/4" thick was about perfect. I had to thin it out (by shaving) at some of the pivot points but other than that it provides a perfect seal and is besides the color looks the exact same as factory. I used 3M super 90 spray adhesive to attach the foam to the metal doors.
To get some of the blend doors out of the heater core box you have to get some tiny screws out. mine were rusty to I replaced them with new stainless steel:
Video of blend doors working:
For the seal between the box units:
You can use the previously mentioned low density foam tape 1/2 by 3/4" or you can use exterior closed cell foam seal from Home Depot. 1inch by 1/4inch tall allows you to cut it in a way to recreate the factory seal. If any of the plastic is warped at all (from old age) or maybe delicate from cracks, I would use the low density foam as it conforms to shapes better and doesn't put as much pressure on the seal when compressed.
That is about it! Good luck. Not a fun job by any means but it will be nice to have a refreshed system that will work as intended. Oh and not breathing in nasty decaying foam bits. hahaha
Tis the season for AC woes... soon it will be back to heater woes and our air delivery systems are OLD now! They can definitely use some help at this point. I recently decided to redo the entire air system in my FJ62, this included everything coming out and getting all new foam seals throughout. It was hard to find into here on MUD in one source and some foam I had to figure out from other sites. So here it is!
For the duct joints:
Low Density Foam Tape, 1/2-by-3/4-Inch
Amazon.com: M-D Building Products 2113 Low Density Foam Tape, 1/2-by-3/4-Inch by 17 Feet, Gray: M-D BUILDING PRODUCTS: Home Improvement
This low density (open cell foam) is perfect for sealing the duct joints as the plastic is irregular and thin and this puts a nice low pressure seal that conforms to the shapes well. 1/2" by 1/2" open cell foam would also work well.
For the blend door and flap in the heater box and the blower box:
I used a polyester open cell foam, I found it as acoustical foam at a foam shop. 12"x4' cost me $3, I bought way too much but wanted to be sure I had enough for mistakes. 1/4" thick was about perfect. I had to thin it out (by shaving) at some of the pivot points but other than that it provides a perfect seal and is besides the color looks the exact same as factory. I used 3M super 90 spray adhesive to attach the foam to the metal doors.
To get some of the blend doors out of the heater core box you have to get some tiny screws out. mine were rusty to I replaced them with new stainless steel:
Video of blend doors working:
For the seal between the box units:
You can use the previously mentioned low density foam tape 1/2 by 3/4" or you can use exterior closed cell foam seal from Home Depot. 1inch by 1/4inch tall allows you to cut it in a way to recreate the factory seal. If any of the plastic is warped at all (from old age) or maybe delicate from cracks, I would use the low density foam as it conforms to shapes better and doesn't put as much pressure on the seal when compressed.
That is about it! Good luck. Not a fun job by any means but it will be nice to have a refreshed system that will work as intended. Oh and not breathing in nasty decaying foam bits. hahaha
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