Head Gasket job (total noob) (1 Viewer)

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This is what I found:

Reinstalling EGR valve to intake - WTF!

"-EGR reinstall: Antisieze union threads/studs. Put union nut on 2 revolutions. Put gasket /front stud in all the way. Use crowbar across valve cover (rag pad) under union nut to pry EGR up to get rear stud started.. It's going into the aluminum intake, so cautiious not to strip - move EGR up/down slightly until you can get rear stud started a couple revolutions.
Be sure gasket doesn't slip out. Now tighten rear stud in, tighten union nut, then install and tighten both stud bolts. Helps to NOT put upper bolt on water pipe until union nut is tight - will need space to swing cresent wrench on union nut. On one particularly frustrating one, I took the EGR valve off, and used the crow bar and block of wood to bend the EGR pipe a bit, then the EGR studs lined up. Use a flashlight to see which direction the holes are misaligned if the studs don't go in. Get aggressive on the pipe with the crowbar to align the holes."

-reference, IdahoDoug's HG video
 
I had to get aggressive with the pipe and hit it also with big hammer. The EGR is back but took me really a lot of effort. I am almost done still missing the radiator and fan clutch and air intake.

Question related to the throttle cables - I didn't mark the position or better to say I marked it really badly so it is gone. How do I adjust the cables going to the throttle body ?

Thanks,

Jorge
 
Run the top two loose as in some slack you don't want those tight, on tranny cable which is bottom adjust to where the nipple comes out of the sleeve by 1mm
 
Questio: what cheap oil shall i buy to run it couple hundred miles ?
 
Questio: what cheap oil shall i buy to run it couple hundred miles ?

If your running 15w-40 theres not much cheaper than the gallon jugs of Rotella from Walmart. Its actually what I use all year round in my rigs and its actually quite good oil.
 
I am running shell 10w-40 , can I run this Rotella for two weeks and then switch to Shell ?
 
I did put 7.3 quarts of Rottela 15w-40 and will be switching to shell 10w-40 in two weeks. The machine is almost ready (just hookup the battery). I am bit afraid of cranking it and hope it will run.

Just a question regarding the throttle cables , I have them like this now:


Does it look right ? The upper two cables are bit loose as everybody suggested. I am not sure about the bottom one .
 
IT'S ALIVE !!

I got moral support from @half k cruiser via phone, did go ahead and started first with disconnected coil to build the pressure. Unfortunately for some reason the gauge was not moving at all. We decided to go ahead and start it up with the coil. I did also flush the block as described in the DVD, took of the drain cock from the block with 14mm and poured distilled water into upper radiator pipe which goes to the head. I then filled the beast with distilled water.

There was really a lot of smoke coming out of the both engine and exhaust y-pipe , probably it was the gasket material burning after ten minutes or so the smoke disappeared and I took it to drive. There were no leaks whatsoever which I triple checked , I was little worried about the injectors if they could leak but they seem to seal just fine. The idle in D (when not stepping on the pedal) seems little bit off but I would give it little time , maybe the computer needs to relearn the engine. The upper intake manifold is little bit shaking and I will need to take a look into that.

The total costs were:
OEM Toyota parts: 1641 $
Injector cleaners: 108 $
Head service: 200 $
Third party parts (landtank fan clutch, phh bypass etc): 550 $

The total is 2499 and I don't count the tools I had to purchase (like lisle angle gauge, AJP thread chaser for head etc). I didn't cut corners but this seems probably overkill.

Would like to thank everybody helping me with this project, this is wonderful community here.

Happy new Year .

Jorge
 
Big relief for you! Congrats on a job well done!
 
Congratulations Jorge, I'm glad its up and running for you and hope that it serves you well on your trip. Also, don't forget to check the timing with a timing light, it is probably out of adjustment.
Never did the timing check, will have to see how to do that ..

Going to flush the distilled water and put red Toyota coolant.
 
Use green coolant. It's way cheaper and works just as well plus it's available at any parts store if an emergency happens.
When I did my HG last spring the idle was also low but a cable adjustment at the TB was necessary. I must have knocked it out during all the excitement.
 
Use green coolant. It's way cheaper and works just as well plus it's available at any parts store if an emergency happens.
When I did my HG last spring the idle was also low but a cable adjustment at the TB was necessary. I must have knocked it out during all the excitement.
I already purchased red one as it was there before. Now draining the water.
 
Its not hard, just borrow a timing light from the local parts store and look at your FSM. Anytime I pull a distributor I will check the timing as its usually a bit off when you get it re installed.
Ok, now I get the P0301 misfire on cylinder 1 . It is probably the spark plug which you said was wrong and you put it into #1 ... Good catch ..
 
Shall I order all six of them or just replace one ?
 
Curious to see if it switches to a P0302 if you moved the spark plug to #2?

But either way, congrats on the rebuild. A bit of smoke after seems to be common, at least it is with me.
 
Shall I order all six of them or just replace one ?
Depends on how the others look but even through the dealership these plugs a only like $2 each. If you install 6 new ones then you will have a reference point as to how old all are and you should be good to go for a long time.
 

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