HDJ81 1HD-T BEB replaced

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Now that most of us had our 81's for awhile, and replaced the BEB's, has anyone inspected the new bearings after several thousand k's to see how they are holding up?

Wondering the same thing...

Bearings replaced about 40,000km ago by ATEB.

I have a ticking noise that seems to slowly be getting louder. The timing seems to coincide with revolutions of the camshaft rather than the crankshaft so I'm not sure if I can rule out anything bottom-end or if I can only hear it on the power stroke. (example: at 1200rpm it sounds like about 10 ticks per second, or every second crank revolution.)
 
Any thoughts on the relative merits of doing this (and pistons and rings) with the engine in the vehicle or pulling it? I'm considering a full overhaul on my 1HD-FT. I'm getting some blow-by and starting to pick up some oil from the vacuum line leading to the turbo, indicating oil blowing back into the induction system.
 
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if oil into the turbo via the the crankcase vent is your reason for thinking you need a rebuild i would seriously re-concider. these engines have moderate blow-by. Do your self a favour and do a compression and cyclender leak down test before you wright off your engine. And if the oil in the intake concerns you do what most of us have done and install a CCV system or a simple oil catch can to solve that problem.......... Just my .02 on my experence.
 
I am still interested to see if anyone has oil sample reports on there 1HD-T pre and post BEB replacement or even just post to compair against mine.
 
I'm an ignorant...

Great thread, deserves a bump.........

Did a set of beariings today, worst I have ever seen, guessing the one was near ready to fail...

No question in my mind any more, they need replacing or its like playing Russian roulette....

Euh... Excuze my ignorance please, :o but could someone tell me if those BEB issues apply to ALL Toyota diesel engines? Particularily to my oooold, non-turbo 2H (142K miles)???
If not, which engines are at risks? Thanks.

Marc.
 
Euh... Excuze my ignorance please, :o but could someone tell me if those BEB issues apply to ALL Toyota diesel engines? Particularily to my oooold, non-turbo 2H (142K miles)???
If not, which engines are at risks? Thanks.

Marc.

No, just the 1HDT, from 1990 to 94ish I believe.
 
Any thoughts on the relative merits of doing this (and pistons and rings) with the engine in the vehicle or pulling it?

It's very easy to drop the oil pan and do the bearings with the engine in the vehicle. I wouldn't pull the engine unless absolutely necessary and as other posters have mentioned, these engines to seem to let quite a bit of oil through the crankcase breather hose to the intake.
 
SST pix

Here's a couple pix of the SST I made to cut through the factory FIPG. It's a 4" piece of 1/2" square stock, with part of a 3" putty knife blade welded on, and then a bolt for a handle. Worked perfectly. I tried using putty knives and razor blades, forget that, there's no room to maneuver it. This works so well, it took less than 5 minutes to hammer it around the pan and cut the entire gasket. And of course you can see that I'm not a professional welder!! :-)
sst.webp
sst1.webp
 
I'm going mad choosing the right BEB.

I have a HDJ81 japanese imported also, year 1991.

First time I went to purchase the stock BEB in Toyota, they told me that they had different sizes, so I had to tell them the size. They couldn't tell as my track is japanese and the frame number doesn't mean anything for the spanish Toyota software.

Then a friend told me that was wrong, that is the same size for all 1HD-T engines, but the thing is each cylinder has different sizes and, he added "it's quite confusing to choose what bearing size matches each cylinder, due to a weird japanese numeration system, so take care with what you do".

Then another friend told me about the ACL BEB's, and he said: "you can't go wrong with those, cause they are one size for all".

Then I rang the ACL dealer and he wanted to know if I wanted standard or oversized bearings.

And now, I see wussywup thread, and, if I understood it well, ACL bearings are also different sizes for each cylinder.

To make things worse, I have just bee told that maybe not all the 1HD-T engines have the same bearings.

Can somebody help me to clarify what size of bearings do I have to order, I might be so stupid or this thing too complicated.


Yep, this can be very confusing.

Originally, the tolerances of these engines was so tight that Toyota measured the clearances in very tiny increments and each engine was put together using different sized bearings that fit each journal. There are stamp marks on the rods and rod caps that indicate what size was originally installed. The FSM references all this.

The ACL bearing is a one-size-fits all, assuming that the crank journal is within a certain size range. It will not offer the ability to "fine-tune" the extremely tight clearance that the engine was originally built to, but frankly, it's not necessary with the quality of the ACL bearing. The differences between the various original sizes are so small, they all fall within the stock ACL "range".

The "standard" ACL bearing assumes the crank has not been reground (to a smaller journal size) and that it is still within factory spec. If that's the case, the standard ACL bearing will work fine. This seems to be the case in pretty much every 1HD-T engine I've heard about. The cranks are usually just fine.

If the crank has been removed and reground (to smaller size) then you'll need the undersize bearings (which are actually thicker than standard because the journal is now smaller), and those are the sizes listed in the table that are .25, .50, etc. Those are the sizes "under" the standard factory size.

Dana
 
Which oil to use?

One more thing I'll add to this thread.

When I bought my truck in 2002, it had 430,000 miles on it, and the engine had over 250,000 miles, on the original BEB's. I'd been reading all about the BEB problems for a couple of years before, so I was extremely nervous on the drive back home. (Salt Lake City Utah to L.A. California)

Well, it made it just fine, and I parked it until I could do the BEBs.

When I got the pan off and the bearing sout, they all looked pretty good. In fact, the one half-shell that had any real problem had way less damage than the one pictured in this thread. I believe the engine would have done another 100K miles without failure.

Yet, I had been reading about catastrophic failure within 150,000 kilometers, and seen pictures of half-shells taken from engines with 1/3 of the miles on mine, that looked much worse.

What gives???

The guy who did the conversion of my truck had been running AMSOIL in it since new. I attribute the condition of the bearings (and the rest of the engine also looked brand-new inside) to the additives in this oil.

There is a guy in New Zealand (Craig Vincent) who did tons of research on this issue, and he concluded that the additive package contained in the AMSOIL synthetics was the best for these Japanese Turbo Diesel engines.

I'd never really thought about it before, but after seeing the condition inside my engine, I became a beleiver. So now I use Amsoil synthetic in my 1HD-T engine.

This is not a commercial for amsoil, this is just my experience.

I'd be interested in knowing what oil some of you folks are running in yours.

Dana
 
No, just the 1HDT, from 1990 to 94ish I believe.

I have been following this thread with interest. I just took delivery of a 2001 1HZ engine. Before it goes into my 40 I have the opportunity to do this fix if needed. As I understand it the BEB was more of a problem in the 1HD-T's, but during what years. Given how similar the 1HD-T is to the 1HZ was premature BEB wear also a problem for the 1HZs during the same years? Finally, if the above quote is accurate did Toyota not get arround to fixing this known problem by 2001?
Thanks,
John
 
Yep, this can be very confusing.

Originally, the tolerances of these engines was so tight that Toyota measured the clearances in very tiny increments and each engine was put together using different sized bearings that fit each journal. There are stamp marks on the rods and rod caps that indicate what size was originally installed. The FSM references all this.

The ACL bearing is a one-size-fits all, assuming that the crank journal is within a certain size range. It will not offer the ability to "fine-tune" the extremely tight clearance that the engine was originally built to, but frankly, it's not necessary with the quality of the ACL bearing. The differences between the various original sizes are so small, they all fall within the stock ACL "range".

The "standard" ACL bearing assumes the crank has not been reground (to a smaller journal size) and that it is still within factory spec. If that's the case, the standard ACL bearing will work fine. This seems to be the case in pretty much every 1HD-T engine I've heard about. The cranks are usually just fine.

If the crank has been removed and reground (to smaller size) then you'll need the undersize bearings (which are actually thicker than standard because the journal is now smaller), and those are the sizes listed in the table that are .25, .50, etc. Those are the sizes "under" the standard factory size.

Dana

Great info and very explanatory.

By the way, it's getting hard to buy the ACL bearings in europe in the last months.

I asked several dealers in the UK and Spain and they are all out of stock and waiting for the bearings to come from Australia for more than a month.

I'll have to order them from a US or australian dealer I'm afraid.

Thanks a lot.
 
Dana, how goes it man.

Good info, and the Amzoil may well have made a difference..."but"...I would not suggest everyone forgo changing the connecting rod bearings and run Amzoil. I am not a proponent of replacing with new factory bearings either. There certainly have not been the multitude of reports of bearing failures for the new (post 1995 or so) setups, but there are occasional references. Enough that I used ACL on my personal engine, and we use ACL for anything that comes through us.

When the info you are referring to was coming out of New Zealand, I believe there was mention or at least talk that the JDM spec oils were saving the day in Japan and that's why no one was hearing issues from Japan. I do not believe that any longer. There are "way" too many 1HD-T's coming into Canada that have lived their lives on JDM spec oils and still show delamination and pitting.

I don't have any data or feedback for past 2001. Your best best is probably going to the Oz sites.

The 80's cool list is another good source for information.







One more thing I'll add to this thread.

When I bought my truck in 2002, it had 430,000 miles on it, and the engine had over 250,000 miles, on the original BEB's. I'd been reading all about the BEB problems for a couple of years before, so I was extremely nervous on the drive back home. (Salt Lake City Utah to L.A. California)

Well, it made it just fine, and I parked it until I could do the BEBs.

When I got the pan off and the bearing sout, they all looked pretty good. In fact, the one half-shell that had any real problem had way less damage than the one pictured in this thread. I believe the engine would have done another 100K miles without failure.

Yet, I had been reading about catastrophic failure within 150,000 kilometers, and seen pictures of half-shells taken from engines with 1/3 of the miles on mine, that looked much worse.

What gives???

The guy who did the conversion of my truck had been running AMSOIL in it since new. I attribute the condition of the bearings (and the rest of the engine also looked brand-new inside) to the additives in this oil.

There is a guy in New Zealand (Craig Vincent) who did tons of research on this issue, and he concluded that the additive package contained in the AMSOIL synthetics was the best for these Japanese Turbo Diesel engines.

I'd never really thought about it before, but after seeing the condition inside my engine, I became a beleiver. So now I use Amsoil synthetic in my 1HD-T engine.

This is not a commercial for amsoil, this is just my experience.

I'd be interested in knowing what oil some of you folks are running in yours.

Dana
 
There certainly have not been the multitude of reports of bearing failures for the new (post 1995 or so) setups, but there are occasional references. Enough that I used ACL on my personal engine, and we use ACL for anything that comes through us.

I haven't heard of any BEB problems on the 24 valve FT motors. But I don't know exactly when they were introduced.
FTE's arrived in 99 in the 100 series.
 
I haven't heard of any BEB problems on the 24 valve FT motors. But I don't know exactly when they were introduced.
FTE's arrived in 99 in the 100 series.


Maartin Vershure of All American Imports in Holland has told me that he's seen a couple of the FT 24 valve motors with bearings that were showing the first early signs of galling and de-lamination.

So, I think that anyone who runs any of the 1H series motors would be well advised to just pop in a set of ACL bearings and put the whole issue to rest.

I'd still love to hear from someone who's taken out a set of ACL's after 100,000 miles or so, just to have a look at how they're holding up.
 
I haven't heard of any BEB problems on the 24 valve FT motors. But I don't know exactly when they were introduced.
FTE's arrived in 99 in the 100 series.

80bigend.htm

There's another link that is down from his site right now though.

Cryptic reports here and there. Nothing like the early 1HD-T' though.
 
80bigend.htm

There's another link that is down from his site right now though.

Cryptic reports here and there. Nothing like the early 1HD-T' though.

Very strange one that one.
First it's recounting the tales of someone else, so you can't ask for clarification easily. But scored cylinders and rooted injector pump points to more than one problem.

This country is full of 80 series cruisers, most imported from japan used and abused with no service history. The stories of the 1HD-T cranks don't seem to have continued to the later FT. This doesn't mean bearing shells are perfect, it just means they aren't taking cranks out.

Where in Australia, there are very few used japanese imports for political reasons. The vehicles there were likely sold new in Australia.
 
Dunno what you're talking about Dougal...

but that link is to a compilation of emails from a mailing list/group (80's cool) that have been around for years and the emails dealing with connecting rod bearings were saved by WJM.

Middle to end of that long file are remarks from some who have come across 1HD-FT connecting rod bearing issues. it's a long read to get to the 2004-5 posts.

From most accounts, the cranks do not get taken out unless you are on the catastrophic failure side of things from not doing due diligence. In fact, the common theme is to drop the pan, check, replace...and cranks show as fine.

There are participants for Oz, Europe and North America in that file, with the vast majority being from Oz as you say.

We, (Canada) are coming in late on this, and it is an advantage. Our direct experience with JDM engines that have lived their life on JDM oils and still show bearing issues helps me put to rest the talk that JDM spec oils would save the day. Good oils are good oils...but there seems more to it then that in this situation.

Very strange one that one.
First it's recounting the tales of someone else, so you can't ask for clarification easily. But scored cylinders and rooted injector pump points to more than one problem.

This country is full of 80 series cruisers, most imported from japan used and abused with no service history. The stories of the 1HD-T cranks don't seem to have continued to the later FT. This doesn't mean bearing shells are perfect, it just means they aren't taking cranks out.

Where in Australia, there are very few used japanese imports for political reasons. The vehicles there were likely sold new in Australia.
 
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Dunno what you're talking about Dougal...

I was referring to this post in particular.
Hello Guys,

Just thought I'd post some info on some bad luck that a mate had recently
with a 1hd-ft 95 gxl. After many reliable years in a faithful 1hz 75 series,
my mate needed a bit more space so after some discussion and a drive in my
97 ihd-ft he decided this was the series to purchase. Not having much luck
in QLD, he eventually sourced a one owner vehicle in central NSW for the
right money. It was in very good nic and had very minimal off road use( if
any at all). So, after deciding this was the one he returned home with it
and drove it with no dramas, very happy with the truck. However, after a few
months he noticed a drop in power so he decided that it was probably the
injectors and then purchased some genuine toyota injector cleaner.

This course of action didn't seem to help any and the situation worsened
after two more days to the point that the car wouldn't start. So off to the
mechanic who started looking for the basics first but no luck and the engine
had to be stripped down. Major bad news!!- Turned out the problem was a
badly scorched (and grooved) bore in one of the pots.The bottom bearings
were flaked and both the turbo and injector pump were RS because of the
metal that had gone thru them. He ended up purchasing a brand new motor thru
Toyota for a large sum and then had to get the pump and turbo fixed as well.
With discussions with his mechanic and toyota it seemed the most likely
cause of this whole situation was extreme lack of servicing in the oil
changes. The vehecle had just turned over 200k so it was well within the
normal km usage for its age. He did notice when he did get it home and did
an oil change that the oil was a bit thick and sludgy. I suppose this could
could happen to any of us when purchasing a 2nd hand vehicle but he has had
some extremly bad luck. Do you all think it was the extended services that
caused this? Obviously there are problems with the big-ends in these trucks
but this one is a series 3 1995 model? Any Ideas?

Brett
1hd-ft 97 regularly serviced
Brisbane


I have some ACL bearings from my Isuzu which I replaced last year after maybe 60-80,000km. I did an insitu rebuild a few years back and replaced these as a final mop-up. Let me know if you'd like to see photos.

They survived through the engine being starved of oil twice (turbo oil feed hose failures, once at each end) and running up to 20,000km oil change intervals at a time when it was burning a lot of oil (don't use chrome rings and chrome liners).
These Isuzu engines do not have a BEB problem, but this essentially counts as extreme service and the shells are showing damage.

Is it just me who considers that if you don't have a failure event, you don't have a problem to worry about? This problem surfaced when some 1HD-T's ate cranks, I haven't heard of any later engines doing the same outside that story I've posted above. Sure shells will show damage for all sorts of reasons. But they are a wear part and as long as they last until something else wears out (like rings) then there's no problem.
 
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what size of acls do i buy?
there are the different sized ones?

ACL DURAGLIDES 6B8396
O/S: STD, .25, .50, .75, 1.00

what sizes do i pick? whats the standard size?
 

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