Rob if you have any pics of those that you did go ahead and post them. They were ugly!!
Dave
Dave
HDJ81 1HD-T BEB replaced
- Thread starter wussyPup
- Start date
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I'm considering buying a JDM.
How often should the BEB service be done, every 125,000km?
Approximate cost of materials?
Approximate cost if I have to get someone else to do it?
I'm low on the banana scale, but the write up made it simple enough.. except I'm not faimiar with the plasti guide... is that a product you buy to ensure you get the correct spacing, then you just poke it out once everthing is set up? is that right?
How often should the BEB service be done, every 125,000km?
Approximate cost of materials?
Approximate cost if I have to get someone else to do it?
I'm low on the banana scale, but the write up made it simple enough.. except I'm not faimiar with the plasti guide... is that a product you buy to ensure you get the correct spacing, then you just poke it out once everthing is set up? is that right?
BEB's need only be done once, just to replace the oem ones with the ACL's.
Cost for bearings roughly 80-100 bucks.
I would also replace the rod bolts, think it was around 50 bucks for them, need 12.
They are Torque to Yield bolts and if they are stretched beyond their limit, they will not hold properly
Cost for someone to do for you roughly 600 bucks.
Plastiguage is used to measure whether crank is within tolerances.
I haven't heard of anyone whose crank and bearings were out of spec. I actually didn't use the plastiguage after measuring up only #6. I was spot on and just went through and replaced the rest.
Cost for bearings roughly 80-100 bucks.
I would also replace the rod bolts, think it was around 50 bucks for them, need 12.
They are Torque to Yield bolts and if they are stretched beyond their limit, they will not hold properly
Cost for someone to do for you roughly 600 bucks.
Plastiguage is used to measure whether crank is within tolerances.
I haven't heard of anyone whose crank and bearings were out of spec. I actually didn't use the plastiguage after measuring up only #6. I was spot on and just went through and replaced the rest.
Are any of these bearings aluminium?
I first heard mention of it from a workmate with a 1KZ-TE in his Prado. For some reason he had the BEB out and the replacements were one piece uncoated aluminium.
When I bought new Isuzu ones a little later, they too were solid and uncoated aluminium.
Quite cheap too, equivalent of $CA25 for four sets, less than half of aftermarket parts.
I first heard mention of it from a workmate with a 1KZ-TE in his Prado. For some reason he had the BEB out and the replacements were one piece uncoated aluminium.
When I bought new Isuzu ones a little later, they too were solid and uncoated aluminium.
Quite cheap too, equivalent of $CA25 for four sets, less than half of aftermarket parts.
Once you get the pan off, your nearly home free. The tool shown above looks like it would work pretty well. It took me some time to do mine, but doing them a second time would be much simplier now that I've done it once.My bearings looked fine and showed no wear at all. Just make sure who ever you pay does a good job and checks the clearences properly. I know enough mechanics to know the plastiguage rarely leaves their tool box.
I held my breath when I turned it over for the first time until the oil pressure came up. It's been a year and a half now and 15,000kms, so I guess I got it right. If I can do it anyone can, just give yourself some time. Invest in some good safety glasses, put on your coveralls and an old hat.....cause you are going to get DIRTY!!!
70sguy
SILVER Star
The factory installed con rod bearings in the 1HD-T and 1HZ engines are a Tin Aluminum alloy.
The ACL bearings that everyone replaces em with are Copper lead and hold up much better.
BiffS
Too many projects... ooh, look. Something shiny.
Anyone know if the 1PZ is affected by these BEB issues? Thinking that i should do mine if so. . .
crushers
post ho
i have not heard of this being a problem with the PZ engine but if you are concerned then go for it...
cheap peace of mind...
cheap peace of mind...
BiffS
Too many projects... ooh, look. Something shiny.
so Wayne i guess the million dollar question is whether or not you did yours on the propane / turboed PZ that you were trying to kill.
Isn't the 1PZ an HZ without #2 cylinder? if so then i would figure it should be the same parts.
Anyone do a PZ and see signs of imminent failure?
Isn't the 1PZ an HZ without #2 cylinder? if so then i would figure it should be the same parts.
Anyone do a PZ and see signs of imminent failure?
crushers
post ho
nope, the PZJ75 and the PZJ70 are both PI and turbo'd, the PZJ70 is intercooled. both are ex-mine engines which have probably seen extensive idling. both had excellent oil pressure...
time will tell
time will tell
I did a 1HZ for the heck of it but wouldnt recommend it for a 1hz or 1pz that isn't going to be turboed - simply false economy - go out and spend the 6 or 800 on a winch or other cruiser swag. I have talked to mining companies who abuse trucks like no one else - not one has ever told me they had connecting rod bearing problems - most of their responses was boiled to to a "huh?"
We do ALL HZ's that come through G&S. If we had PZ's we would do them as well. They all share the same tin/aluminum connecting rod bearings. While the incidence of flaked bearings is not as common in the HZ's we have seen...it still is there. And will be a reality down the road if you add a turbo. While the mines may not have been seeing an issue, the drivetrains coming over from Japan have shown enough to us, and also some other importers, that is is simply part of what is done to make it ready for sale.
hth's
gb
hth's
gb
wussyPup
just another ex-VI Cruiser
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Wow, those pics certainly demonstrate how much pounding the top halves take... Glad the #6 journal was OK for you.
Did you replace as preventative maintenance, or did you have some other reason to be in there?
-Steve
I decided to check/change the BEB's after learning of the failiure issue on this and other LC forums.I do,in fact,have an engine 'tick' under certain RPM/load conditions which has been there since I bought the truck but I was certain is wasn't BEB related and changing them proved me right.With the new shells in there was no change in the ticking noise or oil pressure etc.Hard to say wether #6 bearing (or any of the others for that matter) would've suffered total failiure but after seeing them I reckon it was time/hassle/££ well spent.That was nearly 15k miles ago and there's still no change in the tick.
Wil try asking here also, any one know anything about Taiho brand bearings instead of usual ACL's?
One important thing thats missing from an otherwise informative thread is the tightening/torque method used to correctly re-install the bearing cap bolts.
What is the initial torque setting??
From there is it 90 degrees for each bolt then a further 90??
Also, from what i have read so far here and in other threads, most people are finding that they are able to replace the bearings with the standard sized bearing shells and the tolerances are with in spec. Is that correct?? (Nobody seems to have done the precautionary bearing change, only to find the crank needs to be removed, machined and oversized shells used)
Cheers,
Pete.
What is the initial torque setting??
From there is it 90 degrees for each bolt then a further 90??
Also, from what i have read so far here and in other threads, most people are finding that they are able to replace the bearings with the standard sized bearing shells and the tolerances are with in spec. Is that correct?? (Nobody seems to have done the precautionary bearing change, only to find the crank needs to be removed, machined and oversized shells used)
Cheers,
Pete.
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You mean high sulfur...
I've also got a HDJ81 Ive imported from Japan - she's got 104Km on the clock. I live in Zambia. The BEB thread(s) have got me concerned, and I've tried to source someone that will replace them. Zambia won't touch them, and even Toyota South Africa won't touch them - they said they'd farm it out to an engineer. The mechanic said he wouldn't open it without the engine losing oil or clicking....
Confuterated in Zambia...
Confuterated in Zambia...
