HDJ81 1HD-T BEB replaced

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actually is the downward stroke that has the abuse...
the top of the bearing seldom shows any wear at all...
 
Sorry, should have been more specific for you, but the top has the same wear "area" as the bottom - which seems uneven in many circumstances. Yes the bottom does take the brunt of the impact. \\\


Has anyone been checking the bearings on newere HDT's to see if there are any issues? Just curious.
 
Hi everybody!!

I have a question concerning BEB manufacturer, as i can see you all are using ACL replacement bearings but is there any difference between Original (OEM) and ACL bearings?
which are better and more relible?
 
Hi everybody!!

I have a question concerning BEB manufacturer, as i can see you all are using ACL replacement bearings but is there any difference between Original (OEM) and ACL bearings?
which are better and more relible?

How long is a piece of string? I fitted ACL but cannot offer feedback as the time frame is not long enough. Depending on your mechanical skills and if you are sitting on the fence I would go with OEM. If you are skilled in using a a torque wrench then go with whatever you like. AFAIK nobody appears to have a problem with any bearings fitted that are not OEM, anyone give me some help here?

regards

Dave
 
I can do it myself easy, but i need to find exact one which will fit,
ACL -standard -no big choice as i understand (Need to measure with plasti guage)
OEM - there are numbers and codes (puzzl for me at this moment) and i have seen that the bearing for each cylinder can be different depending on the Number or code which is on the block and on bearings....so there are several size of bearings.





this confused me a little bit...
 
Nobody uses Genuine Toyota replacements because as far as we know they are still Tin Aluminum composition which is the root of the whole problem, or at least the weak link. Sure, maybe they tweaked the MFG process or blend of metals so the OEM shells don't flake and fall apart but I doubt many are willing to wager their engine on it.
Most folks prefer a put em in and forget about it type solution, not a pull the pan and check the shells every time you do the timing belt program.
 
Page EM88 in RM172E covers off how do come up with the correct Mark numbers for each
Con rod without pulling the cap and reading the number off the bearing shells.
 
70sguy

Thank you,

I will install ACL also, but will not take chance and will drop down the bearings to be sure of their size, I dont know the history of vehicule ...
 
If it makes you feel better, Greg and I have swapped ACL 6B-8396-STD into every
1HZ, 1HD-T, 1HD-FT that has gone through our shop and not one of em was out of spec, checked as per FSM with plastigauge. I even plastigauged the original bearings in my 1HD-FT to get a baseline clearance measurement so I knew where the ACL STD shells I was putting in compared. The plastigauge showed identical clearance.
It is also a good idea to spend the extra $80 or so on new con rod bolts, as the old ones do stretch and you can feel the difference when you do your final 90 deg on with used bolts compared to new.
Cheap insurance.
 
Nobody uses Genuine Toyota replacements because as far as we know they are still Tin Aluminum composition which is the root of the whole problem, or at least the weak link. Sure, maybe they tweaked the MFG process or blend of metals so the OEM shells don't flake and fall apart but I doubt many are willing to wager their engine on it.
Most folks prefer a put em in and forget about it type solution, not a pull the pan and check the shells every time you do the timing belt program.

The aluminium shells aren't the root of the problem, if they were then every single modern diesel would be spitting out crank bearings.
 
Good point.. How about in this application they are at least the weak link...the victim of whatever voodoo is going on in the 1HD-T engine that hammers the bearings.
 
since ACL are $100 and factory are much more and more complicated to order then why go to the bother?
 
If it makes you feel better, Greg and I have swapped ACL 6B-8396-STD into every
1HZ, 1HD-T, 1HD-FT that has gone through our shop and not one of em was out of spec, checked as per FSM with plastigauge. I even plastigauged the original bearings in my 1HD-FT to get a baseline clearance measurement so I knew where the ACL STD shells I was putting in compared. The plastigauge showed identical clearance.
It is also a good idea to spend the extra $80 or so on new con rod bolts, as the old ones do stretch and you can feel the difference when you do your final 90 deg on with used bolts compared to new.
Cheap insurance.

Great info thanks, I will directly order ACL std Bearings and green plastiguage with new bolts...

Can you please drop the shop e-adress from where I can order acl bearings and green platiguage for hd-t?
 
You've got a PM
 
To answer posts above -

Yes, the ACLs are a different composition than the factory bearings.

The bearing issue has to do with harmonics and cavitation that seem to occur in the 1HD-T at certain loads/RPMs. The technical article is posted via link in other threads discussing this issue. Use the search function.

We have installed many sets of these bearings and they always measure up perfectly - BUT we still check them with plasti-gauge when installing them.

I have only heard of 1 person for whom the standard bearings did not fit one rod journal properly. There are other sizes of ACLs available if you have this very uncommon situation.

Use a good, old school, diesel grade oil in your engine, or a synthetic such as Amsoil ACD. Do Not use newer blends made for gasoline engines - they do not have enough anti-wear agents in them to protect your older/diesel engine from wear.


~John
 
Done, it was Time!!!

Thanks to 70sguy & Radd cruisers for support and bearings!

here is the 6 th cylinder bearing

zf382.jpg


bcofg.jpg


:skull:
 
I thought I might as well bump a good thread and post some pictures....

Just did my dads 81 on Friday and here are the results.... Im quite surprised on how good they look and they are all smooth as can be.

He has 250k on the clock and got the truck at 107k.... He has been using Chevron Delo 400 5w40syn ever since he got it.

There was no record of them ever being done.

L-R is 1-6

Top is the top and the bottom are the bottoms

:beer:
image-1435945513.jpg
 

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