Builds HDJ80 LHD #snlcbuilt Ute (pickup)

[Indestructible 47]

Ya what better Cruiser to cut up!?


I was looking at some cool stuff the other night on Marks4x4 website. Air cylinder to convert factory elockers to air lockers and bolt in hydro boost brake conversions.

Cheers

Marks4x4 are great at solving problems that don't exist

In all seriousness, I've never had any problems with factory lockers, and ive abused the hell out of them, but I've had a torrid time with the air locker types - funny how people get bad luck with some and others run forever without a problem

 

[SNLC]

Marks4x4 are great at solving problems that don't exist

In all seriousness, I've never had any problems with factory lockers, and ive abused the hell out of them, but I've had a torrid time with the air locker types - funny how people get bad luck with some and others run forever without a problem

For sure, I am actually not a big fan of ARBs because in my Patrol rock crawler they always leaked as well as in a few other Cruisers I have had. On a recent trip though my front elocker didn’t want to engage when I needed it. We could blah blah about all this awhile I an sure!



I want to play around with some more “cheaper” things out of the gates on this build. Your aussie radius arm flip for example. I am going to run the Diamond 8” front with some RCVs and 105 hubs in at least a 4.56 if not a 4.88(+) so when Toyota stuff starts failing I do plan to go more beef. Be nice if a black box could be fitted with the H152/HF2A, not even looked into that at all yet. I am sure at some point if I can’t get real good crawler gears for 37+” rubber I may dump all the Toyota powertrain and go doom-estic!!


In the meantime I am going to get the chassis stretched and do a few cheap mods like go eye all around on shocks mounts and your aussie radius arm flip! Body, tray, FT and blah blah will milk me for awhile before I consider any full sized axles, real suspension or crawler (trans/tcase), 3:1 I am sure will be a little meh with 37+” rubber but I am going to rock it before any serious upgrades in this build.

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

Be nice if a black box could be fitted with the H152/HF2A, not even looked into that at all yet.

Mark's used to make a crawl box that worked with factory trans and transfer in the 80series. Not sure if they still do.
I think it needed floor pan mods, maybe fuel tank too

 

[scottryana]

Mark's used to make a crawl box that worked with factory trans and transfer in the 80series. Not sure if they still do.
I think it needed floor pan mods, maybe fuel tank too

Also overheated on hwy drives. Slee had to add some kind of external cooling if I remember right.

 

[Feldrian]

I run a black box on the crawler 80 with a stock trans and underdrive in the Tcase.

NWF has directions on how to add a pump and cooler for highway use. I also added a catch can because the black box likes to puke.

Other than being a little noisy in low it works great.

 

[Feldrian]

Mark's used to make a crawl box that worked with factory trans and transfer in the 80series. Not sure if they still do.
I think it needed floor pan mods, maybe fuel tank too

Oh, and yeah, requires butchering the floor pan and in my case a carrier bearing for the front shaft.

 

[SNLC]

Got a few hours in this afternoon, stripping it down, cleaning and some dry ice (need more ) to remove sound deadening.

Some cab and body work perhaps up next, going to be a wait on parts-machine work before I build the FT.

Cheers

 

[Feldrian]

Got a few hours in this afternoon, stripping it down, cleaning and some dry ice (need more ) to remove sound deadening.

View attachment 3432590View attachment 3432591View attachment 3432592

Some cab and body work perhaps up next, going to be a wait on parts-machine work before I build the FT.

Cheers

I need to stop reading your build threads. They make everything i do look lazy and half assed.

 

[SNLC]

This is an OEM 79-series back corner drip rail. This will define the shape of the cab here and how the roof is capped here as well.

Inner 79-series OEM top of cab back crossmember.

OEM LHS & RHS outer rockers plus LHS inner. Unfortunately the RHS inner is NLA now. See earlier pics-posts in the thread as to why I got these and will be doing some surgery to the body.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Just played around with some measurements and numbers.

8” stretch gives me roughly 120” wheelbase. Five foot bed would be a 50* departure angle with 245’s! Far more with 37+”.

With a six foot bed looks like around a 40* with 245s and 120”.

Obviously not long enough to sleep in the bed but plenty to play with here in terms of wb, bed length, departure angle, ect-all. I can get creative and still have an awesome departure angle. I don’t think I will go for a bed longer than six foot but we will see.

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

OEM LHS & RHS outer rockers plus LHS inner. Unfortunately the RHS inner is NLA now. See earlier pics-posts in the thread as to why I got these and will be doing some surgery to the body.

If you're cutting rockers out, throw some RHS in instead.
Add slider tubes to the outside of them.

High and tight, and bomb proof.

 

[SNLC]

Removing this floor crossmember to be used on the Ute.

Rocker surgery and they are wasted.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

We have cut up some nice rust free Cruisers that have been donors for chassis swaps and try to save the best parts. I think this one had LHS damage but none on the right. We harvested the NLA RHS inner rocker from it.

Floor crossmember removed and where it is going.

It will need some more work before it fits in here just right.

Taken what we want from this, now it is scrap.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I have washed this Cruiser so many times now and it just keep crapping this Euro dirt.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

RHS inner rocker is about ready to spot weld.

Replacement rust free core support.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I run a black box on the crawler 80 with a stock trans and underdrive in the Tcase.

NWF has directions on how to add a pump and cooler for highway use. I also added a catch can because the black box likes to puke.

Other than being a little noisy in low it works great.

Was just looking at their website and the Black Box. They show it works with the H150/H151, that rocks! I have never really looked into these much just aware of them. It is a planetary doubler right? I like that they say it can work as an adapter too. Seems similar to the old AA Ranger OD planetary box which is an OD vs UD and I had one in a 60. It whined too, didn't bother me. Man, in the future, 1HDFT to H152 to Black Box to Atlas that sounds pretty rad!

Cheers

 

[Feldrian]

Was just looking at their website and the Black Box. They show it works with the H150/H151, that rocks! I have never really looked into these much just aware of them. It is a planetary doubler right? I like that they say it can work as an adapter too. Seems similar to the old AA Ranger OD planetary box which is an OD vs UD and I had one in a 60. It whined too, didn't bother me. Man, in the future, 1HDFT to H152 to Black Box to Atlas that sounds pretty rad!

Cheers

Yup, they're planetary units.

I have to admit the temptation to drop an Atlas behind it is tempting. If nothing else the ability to front dig would be really useful.

 

[SNLC]

Yup, they're planetary units.

I have to admit the temptation to drop an Atlas behind it is tempting. If nothing else the ability to front dig would be really useful.

I may go away from Toyota axles eventually, hence not wanting to link it at this time. If I can get a good crawl ratio I want to keep the FT and H152 long term. No probs on trans hump mods, mine is a gaping hole. I am also considering cutting body mounts off and raising them an inch or so for a built in body lift. Temped to do the same with the engine & trans. It makes it much better to run a big exhaust with the body lift and also allows for less suspension lift. I don’t like pucks though for a body lift so won’t go that route. Lifting engine and trans gets a flatter belly, a real problem with Toyota tcases.

Cheers

 

[Broski]

For sure, I am actually not a big fan of ARBs because in my Patrol rock crawler they always leaked as well as in a few other Cruisers I have had. On a recent trip though my front elocker didn’t want to engage when I needed it. We could blah blah about all this awhile I an sure!



I want to play around with some more “cheaper” things out of the gates on this build. Your aussie radius arm flip for example. I am going to run the Diamond 8” front with some RCVs and 105 hubs in at least a 4.56 if not a 4.88(+) so when Toyota stuff starts failing I do plan to go more beef. Be nice if a black box could be fitted with the H152/HF2A, not even looked into that at all yet. I am sure at some point if I can’t get real good crawler gears for 37+” rubber I may dump all the Toyota powertrain and go doom-estic!!


In the meantime I am going to get the chassis stretched and do a few cheap mods like go eye all around on shocks mounts and your aussie radius arm flip! Body, tray, FT and blah blah will milk me for awhile before I consider any full sized axles, real suspension or crawler (trans/tcase), 3:1 I am sure will be a little meh with 37+” rubber but I am going to rock it before any serious upgrades in this build.

Cheers

If you going to run a Diamond front housing why not go with a 9.5” diff ? Seems to me the 8” is the weakest link in the front axle
And if you you’re doing the 3.1 transfer case gear might as well do the 10% under drive at the same time.
With 5-29s it’s not bad even with 39s

But I’m sure you have thought about all of this

 

[SNLC]

I already have the Diamond in an 8”, it was free.

I already have tcase gears.

Cheers