Builds HDJ80 LHD #snlcbuilt Ute (pickup) (1 Viewer)

[scottryana]

Ya well, I am just a Land Cruiser mechanic/builder so don’t have $50k currently to drop on the build. I am picking away at it as I can, I have thought of selling my 95’ 80 to fund the full on Pigpen “splurge” but I really really like it and want to keep it for now. Long term (5-10yrs) it is probably Pigpen and some sort of 70-series for my two Cruiser limit! I am fairly sure once Pigpen is built I won’t be using my 95’ FZJ80 for much so will consider selling it much harder at that point.

BTW, it is super tempting to “FTE” this FT since I do have an FTE pump (and my head is “FTE) but again trying to keep this somewhat manageable $$$ wise and as soon as I go FTE it gets substantially more expensive. In the end, Pigpen will be ALL go mode if we get hit with an EMP! Mechanical has it’s advantages!

Cheers

You have the most important part, the skill/talent. If you billed for all the hours you work on these trucks it would cost a lot more than $50k. I know when my time became less and I started paying people to do the work I realized I can not do as much as I would like when I did it myself. ha.

 

[ikarus]

Don’t mind me, I am going to blah’ on in my thread!

I was looking at tires and wheels the other night. May have decided on the Nitto M/T in 38x13.5r17 variety. Wheels being Raceline Monster in a 17”x8.5”. The Nitto is also available in a 37x12.5 but it measures 36.7 or whatever and we all know how that goes! The 38’s measure 37.75” so should be closer to a true 37 once on the Cruiser. As my good buddy said skip the wheels & tires for now, that’s a lot of $100 bills to let them sit around while you build the Cruiser. True enough but at some point I will need them to clearance front fenders and build the bed. Until then there is thousands to spend and hundreds of hours in work!

I may not get a Diamond rear housing right now to keep cost down. I want to go chromoly front shafts in the Diamond which is $$$. Plus I am going five lug conversion so I have to buy 105 rear axle shafts and build a 105 rear 3rd member, regear front 3rd too. All new 105 brakes all around planned which will cost some $$$, probably 100-series DBA rotors/pads with new 105 calipers. The 105 front calipers are bigger than 80 btw. So probably sticking with the Diamond front and stock rear housings for now. Got lots of $$$$ to spend on suspension as well even keeping it stock. Half tempted to do a 4WU 3-link front since I got to fab on the housing anyways but that is even more $$$. Maybe I will just do a cheesy radius arm flip for now. Did I mention a new 105-series steering box needed too? Ya it adds up real fast and I do have a cap on what I am spending right now. Should get my FT built and my hood, beyond that probably not much.

Got a new H152 and tcase ready to go though. Also got a whole bunch of frame fabrication that can be done and doesn't cost much besides time.

Cheers

Have you thought about importing a 105 instead and dropping the FT in that? That's my ultimate goal in a few years, bring in an HZJ105 and drop in an FTE with a 5-speed.

I just picked up a PDI airbox similar to the one you referenced, uses a 200 series filter as well. I think it's a great way to go.

Also I flocked a dash in a BMW E30 back in the day and it gave me a similar look. Not sure how well it would hold up dust and dirt but it was nice in a track car.

Did you ship the Radius snorkel from Australia? I'd like to buy either that or a Moonlight 4". Not too many stainless snorkels in the US yet.

I love that Australian style of building cruisers you'll be going for, very different from the average US "overland starter pack" build... maybe it's just because the grass is always greener and Australian stuff is kind of exotic (to me at least) but my build will be/already is taking a lot of the same style cues. Slick top roof, 4" stainless snorkel, beadlocks, bigger turbo, 3" straight pipe, maybe a big antenna on the front just cause it looks cool (I don't actually have any friends to talk to hahah)

From my inspiration folder

 

[SNLC]

Have you thought about importing a 105 instead and dropping the FT in that? That's my ultimate goal in a few years, bring in an HZJ105 and drop in an FTE with a 5-speed.

I just picked up a PDI airbox similar to the one you referenced, uses a 200 series filter as well. I think it's a great way to go.

Also I flocked a dash in a BMW E30 back in the day and it gave me a similar look. Not sure how well it would hold up dust and dirt but it was nice in a track car.

Did you ship the Radius snorkel from Australia? I'd like to buy either that or a Moonlight 4". Not too many stainless snorkels in the US yet.

I love that Australian style of building cruisers you'll be going for, very different from the average US "overland starter pack" build... maybe it's just because the grass is always greener and Australian stuff is kind of exotic (to me at least) but my build will be/already is taking a lot of the same style cues. Slick top roof, 4" stainless snorkel, beadlocks, bigger turbo, 3" straight pipe, maybe a big antenna on the front just cause it looks cool (I don't actually have any friends to talk to hahah)

From my inspiration folder

View attachment 3422293

View attachment 3422294

View attachment 3422295

View attachment 3422296

This was my Nissan Patrol 160-series, “MQ” in Australia, I had nearly 15yrs ago now.

A 62-series I swapped on an 80-series chassis nearly 10yrs ago now.

My old v8 60 I absolutely dialed in as far as axle and suspension, back in 2012.

Pinzgauer 6x6 I had and built a lot 20-10yrs ago.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

My 100-series I built (in 2016) and then spent six months living out if it on the road to Panama and back in 2017. Five weeks of that was sleeping in a hammock slung of the side of the Cruiser in Baja every night!

I have done the same trip in a 2004 Taco DC back in 2009/10 & again in 2011. I also had a v8 80-series. Not to mention all the Cruisers we build for customers. So I kind of have it figured out in terms if what works for me, be it “overlanding”, “rock crawling” or something in between. By “figure it out”, I mean for me and my Cruiser uses. Everyone and every Cruiser is different to me, no cookie cutter builds in my world!

Cheers

 

[mudgudgeon]

The question currently in my mind is do I get these!?

View attachment 3422039View attachment 3422040

Cheers

Are the OEM rods no good?

I'm guessing those ^^^ are lighter?

 

[SNLC]

Extra crusty tear down. About there though.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Are the OEM rods no good?

I'm guessing those ^^^ are lighter?

OEM rods are fine up to 30psi and 325-350hp, good idea to upgrade if going for more. That’s why Gturbo had them made. Not sure atm if they are lighter.

My conrods are probably fine but as mentioned OEM is just about the same cost as the upgraded.

*EDIT*

Also on the conrod subject, run them to hard and they will twist. After that, they will crack/break. As per the FSM they should be checked for twisting which we do in our rebuilds but man I want options to up boost! These new GTurbo conrods are rated to 500hp! Considering my build plans, $1250ausd is way worth it!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

#4 is the worst

Crank is fine so far though, a polish will do.

#6 is the next worst, rest are pretty good.

The two worst bores.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Cam is wasted.

I didn’t take any pics but we just had the girdle off and peeked at the main bearings on the crank. Some bearings are fairly hammered but the crank is fine. Good way to end a tear down and week.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Stoked I bought and stashed this going on two years ago now! My head is likely rebuildable (as long as not to warped or cracked and this isn’t an aluminum head!) but from day one with this FT I knew the head was hammered. Only place I could find it was out of Australia, it was real expensive and it is actually an FTE head, hence the Yanmar valve cover. New cam and few remaining parts needed to fully build a brand new head are on the way.

Crank bearings, I have never seen anything but “1’s & 2’s” on the dozen FT/FTEs I have built now. With a polish there is no reason to not stick with standard bearings.

Conrod bearings.

I always check bores with this before sending to the machine shop but since I know we got to bore it due to the pitting I only checked quickly. Bores are true and worn evenly which is common on FT/FTEs I have seen/rebuilt with 100-250k miles.

In case you didn’t know too, Toyota’s tolerances on the FT/FTE is down to the .0001! Not many manufacturers go to that level.

Ordering up the bearings I need and .50 over pistons. I think I am going with the “bling” conrods too!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

We have got a bunch of used FT/FTEs out of Europe now. This one being Belgium at least for awhile and France originally I think. The sump pans being a two layered stamped design are always rotten and leaking. This one is pretty bad. Europe = salt!

Good thing I grabbed this 80-series FT pan awhile ago!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Have you thought about importing a 105 instead and dropping the FT in that? That's my ultimate goal in a few years, bring in an HZJ105 and drop in an FTE with a 5-speed.

Man, I am going to quote you again....because, YES! A 105-series is on my radar! Top 3-5 Cruisers I would love to have/own/build. And not a 100-series SAS’ed but the REAL DEAL 105! I think I could build a super awesome one after owning all the Cruisers I have and to top it off taking my 100 to Panama and back!

A 105 is 100% on my list of “must own/build” Cruisers. So is a 79-series though!

Cheers

 

[AussieHJCruza]

OEM rods are fine up to 30psi and 325-350hp, good idea to upgrade if going for more. That’s why Gturbo had them made. Not sure atm if they are lighter.

My conrods are probably fine but as mentioned OEM is just about the same cost as the upgraded.

*EDIT*

Also on the conrod subject, run them to hard and they will twist. After that, they will crack/break. As per the FSM they should be checked for twisting which we do in our rebuilds but man I want options to up boost! These new GTurbo conrods are rated to 500hp! Considering my build plans, $1250ausd is way worth it!

Cheers

Time for a hit of the bottle @SNLC

 

[SNLC]

Time for a hit of the bottle @SNLC

Eh?


I think I will put money into my front axle next. Might as well since the housing is sitting here ready to build.

Cheers

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Eh?


I think I will put money into my front axle next. Might as well since the housing is sitting here ready to build.

Cheers

If you've got rods for 500hp, a whiff of nitrous?

 

[TheLCProject]

Which F&F is it again where they drag race in 4LO 3x locked?

 

[SNLC]

Oh sh*t!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Core support is wasted, cracked on the other side as well.

Cheers

 

[TheLCProject]

Core support is wasted, cracked on the other side as well.

View attachment 3430907

Cheers

This body and chassis just keeps giving...

 

[SNLC]

This body and chassis just keeps giving...

Ya what better Cruiser to cut up!?


I was looking at some cool stuff the other night on Marks4x4 website. Air cylinder to convert factory elockers to air lockers and bolt in hydro boost brake conversions.

Cheers