Sorry to bump an ancient thread, but the links to the instructions are dead. Anyone with an updated link on the advanced timing instructions? I'm considering this to be done after I get a bunch of PM squared away. TIA!
Has anyone advanced the timing on 1FZ-FE? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kenton
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Bump to keep it alive, also looking at timing advance for a few free ponies.
I've been running at 9 degrees since 2008 at about 6000 feet with no real ill effects.
I am interested as well. Is it as simple as putting a timing light on it?? The way everyone talks about it in very specific terms ie. 3 degrees, 6 degrees, 8 degrees it sounds like there are marks on the block and a notch on the dist. Come on Beno spill the Bean-o-s
Pretty much.
I did a valve adjust before hand and then timing light, loosening the dizzy housing, jumpering the diagnostic box on the PS of the firewall, and then went away with it.
It's a bit challenging because the timing mark jumps everywhere initially. But then it settles down and then sits at a spot and then you just go with what the timing light says and torque down the dizzy housing and that's pretty much it
At least, that's how I recall I did it. It's been 2 years since I've touched it.
I just moved the timing from 3 to 6, runs smoother, had a little bump in the idle. Jumper wire makes a big difference, you must put it in to check the timing. I did check it before and after the wire was in, I was curious, it does do more then stabilize the mark, seen a 4 degree change.
What terminals are you jumping?
Blackdog
"Y'all smell that?"
Adjust with scangauge?
Is it safe to trust the SG timing readout for adjusting? If you use that as a guide, do you still need to do the whole jumper bit?
Is it safe to trust the SG timing readout for adjusting? If you use that as a guide, do you still need to do the whole jumper bit?
Terminals are: E1 and TE1. There is a diagram under the hood to show which one to jumper.
IMHO i would not time your rig by the SG reading. Also, you need to jumper the terminals to get the true reading.
I tried that, but I get some funky Asian site
Man I am so sorry. Toys link is what was supposed to come up.
So, I bought my rig with a blown head gasket, and fixed that issue. I set the static timing based on the dots on the cam gears, and left it at that for a while. I didn't think that much about it. It did feel pretty sluggish from a dead stop, almost like the old 3FE I had. Then this thread popped up, and I thought to myself...hmm, maybe I should check the timing. So, I did, and it was a little retarded (not the derogatory definition). I bumped it up to between 6 and 7 degrees. Wow it is much smoother, and not as sluggish from a stop. It is no drag racer, and doesn't get driven like that, but I did notice the difference. Now I am looking at how it effects MPG. I'll report back after the new tank is refilled. Before I was getting 13-14 mpg.
I've been running this mod for 9 years now and alls well so far.
I checked compression about 30,000kms ago and had over 200psi in each cylinder with less than 3psi variation.
It's not my DD anymore, but every time its used its a 300+km journey, with a least one 2500+km mission a year.
I'm not sure about octane rating between Oz and US, whether there's a difference (like Imperial, US Imperial and Metric units) but we get 91, 95 and 98. I run 98.
I checked compression about 30,000kms ago and had over 200psi in each cylinder with less than 3psi variation.
It's not my DD anymore, but every time its used its a 300+km journey, with a least one 2500+km mission a year.
I'm not sure about octane rating between Oz and US, whether there's a difference (like Imperial, US Imperial and Metric units) but we get 91, 95 and 98. I run 98.
I adjusted my timing a while back the by bridging the terminals and then setting it with a good timing gun. I noticed tonight with my Mac scan tool plugged in that it reads 4 degrees of timing at idle. I should be up around 10. What should I believe, my scan tool or the timing light?
is everyone on advaced timing still on 86-86 octane? Ya know, the cheapest stuff 
I'm guessing you used the jumper wire with the scan tool? I would barrow a second timing light and compare, bet the light is correct.
