It probably is. It would depend on what version you want. You might want to check with Cruiser Outfitters to see what their thoughts are.
Builds Hard Ways - Rigger's 1969 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rigger
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- #802
I went out and looked at it some more. I suppose that when they went to the later box, in 1972, that was when they abandoned the three-on-the-tree. And that three speed shifter on the column is something that I really love about my truck.
Floor shift came out in 1973.
If you are going to have to do a column change, I would seriously consider City Racer's power steering.
This is the only way that I would convert a 40 to power steering.
This is the only way that I would convert a 40 to power steering.
Electric Power Steering for '73 and later Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
Your opportunity to enjoy a leapfrog in technology and enter the Tesla age! A complete kit to convert your Land Cruiser FJ40 to electric power steering. Developed by EZ Electric Power Steering using components produced by Koyo and NSK, both made in Japan and affiliated with Toyota.Compatible...
www.cityracerllc.com
there were 2 mount designs for the early 1 piece box/column, not sure if the change happened when the spline change occurred
I like my 3 on the column also, any column change and you may not be able to keep it.
I like my 3 on the column also, any column change and you may not be able to keep it.
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Doing a column swap on a pre-71/40 is extra hard because the driver’s side firewall brace runs alongside the early column.
EWheeler
GOLD Star
Curious if this opinion is due to keeping originality, due to functionality vs. the alternatives, or a combo of both?This is the only way that I would convert a 40 to power steering.
Electric Power Steering for '73 and later Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40
Your opportunity to enjoy a leapfrog in technology and enter the Tesla age! A complete kit to convert your Land Cruiser FJ40 to electric power steering. Developed by EZ Electric Power Steering using components produced by Koyo and NSK, both made in Japan and affiliated with Toyota.Compatible...www.cityracerllc.com
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Future congressman?
Passing the buck/ kicking the can down the road on a 55 year old steering box that has possibly never been opened before.
Future congressman?
Passing the buck/ kicking the can down the road on a 55 year old steering box that has possibly never been opened before.
Unless there's excessive play/other issue to justify further action the juice isnt worth the squeeze imho
Loads of people on MUD have taken same approach to leaky steering box seals and instead packed with grease with no issue/down side
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“Loads of people on MUD…” means nothing to me.
I have been rebuilding these steering boxes for four decades. And you know what I see, over and over again? Rust. Rust from atmospheric condensation that naturally accumulates over time inside the steering box. Rust that needs to be removed before it gets into IRREPLACEABLE bearings and gears. Would you like me to show you a picture of a pitted, worthless worm gear?
Do it right or do it twice is not even a choice when replacement parts to ‘do it twice’ are NLA.
I went on a rant 30 years ago with the outfit that was ‘rebuilding’ steering boxes for TLC annd packing them with grease. And my opinion hasn’t changed. It’s an opinion that has been backed up by having to throw too many steering boxes away that couldn’t be PROPERLY rebuilt anymore.
A properly serviced and adjusted steering box is not a high-wear component, so a seal when properly installed should last until THE NEXT TIME THE STEERING BOX NEEDS TO BE OPENED FOR SERVICE. When the seal leaks, it should be opened, inspected and serviced, period.
“Loads of people on MUD…” means nothing to me.
I have been rebuilding these steering boxes for four decades. And you know what I see, over and over again? Rust. Rust from atmospheric condensation that naturally accumulates over time inside the steering box. Rust that needs to be removed before it gets into IRREPLACEABLE bearings and gears. Would you like me to show you a picture of a pitted, worthless worm gear?
Do it right or do it twice is not even a choice when replacement parts to ‘do it twice’ are NLA.
I went on a rant 30 years ago with the outfit that was ‘rebuilding’ steering boxes for TLC annd packing them with grease. And my opinion hasn’t changed. It’s an opinion that has been backed up by having to throw too many steering boxes away that couldn’t be PROPERLY rebuilt anymore.
A properly serviced and adjusted steering box is not a high-wear component, so a seal when properly installed should last until THE NEXT TIME THE STEERING BOX NEEDS TO BE OPENED FOR SERVICE. When the seal leaks, it should be opened, inspected and serviced, period.
I pumped a steering box on a 40 full of grease 35 years ago with a grease gun and its still full of grease to this day
No rust
No fuss
No muss
No play
If grease is good enough for a steering knuckle then it will work for a steering box
I dont want to argue with you about it but like with many (not all) jobs, there's more than one way to do it and depending on use/environment there may be pros/cons to each.
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- #816
I spent a bit more time looking at my steering.
I’m noticing some slop in the center arm, so will do a rebuild of that component.
The joint at the back end of the drag link (connection to pitman arm) maybe could use some attention, so I’m going to tackle that one, too.
Then I’ll fill the steering box with grease. LOL!
No seriously, I’m still thinking about the steering box. I do have a cost range on the box rebuild.
I also took it out for a spin with one of my grands. He says his ABC’s: “A - B - C - D - E - F - J - 40 ride.”
I’m noticing some slop in the center arm, so will do a rebuild of that component.
The joint at the back end of the drag link (connection to pitman arm) maybe could use some attention, so I’m going to tackle that one, too.
Then I’ll fill the steering box with grease. LOL!
No seriously, I’m still thinking about the steering box. I do have a cost range on the box rebuild.I also took it out for a spin with one of my grands. He says his ABC’s: “A - B - C - D - E - F - J - 40 ride.”
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- #817
Okay. Rebuilt the spring doohickey at the back end of the drag link. I don't know what that netted me in terms of tightening up, since that is kind of a flexible end. I also discovered a few things I forgot from earlier. I need to play catch up ball on the remaining TRE's.
I need to rebuild the center arm, so checking around on pricing and how-to on a rebuild kit.
It's fun to wrench on the '40. I ain't done a lot of it recently. Kinda forgot how much fun it is.
I need to rebuild the center arm, so checking around on pricing and how-to on a rebuild kit.
It's fun to wrench on the '40. I ain't done a lot of it recently. Kinda forgot how much fun it is.
Hit up Cruiser Outfitters for the center arm kit.
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- #819
I'll be rebuilding the center arm just as soon as my rebuild kit gets here. While that project cools its heels .....
I'm going to mount up the spare tire carrier. This was on the truck when I bought it, I removed it for some reason that I can't fully remember.
This pic is from when I bought the truck. Notice that the lower hinge position makes it so that one of the 4 bolts can't be installed.
I'm going to mount up the spare tire carrier. This was on the truck when I bought it, I removed it for some reason that I can't fully remember.
This pic is from when I bought the truck. Notice that the lower hinge position makes it so that one of the 4 bolts can't be installed.
