Hard Top Question (1 Viewer)

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Dec 2, 2009
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Location
Tomball, Texas
Does the hard top "need" to have those vertical tubes that side into the vertical part of the rocker panel?

One of mine is pretty rusted, should I replace it or just cut if off and run without it?
 
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Alot of people cut them off. I'd leave a little if possible....I'm sure they add to rigidity and overall strength for the hardtop (which is a heavy assembly of metal and fiberglass).

BTW, if you were running a roof rack with no top, this sure would be a good place to anchor a mounting support....just sayin'....:p
 
I just wanted to make sure that if I cut them off, the hard top is not going to "fly" off the FJ at 60 MPH, lol

I would think that the bolts that attach it to the tub would be enough to hold it down
 
I just wanted to make sure that if I cut them off, the hard top is not going to "fly" off the FJ at 60 MPH, lol

I would think that the bolts that attach it to the tub would be enough to hold it down

Those, and the bolts that attach it to the windshield, and the ambulance doors (if you have a later one).
 
i dont know about hackin it all the way off. alot of people cut them down me included to about 4 inches as it dramatically helps wen removing and installing the top. ,ake sure you have bolts for all the holes if you are going to remove them
 
I've had tops without them over the years without any problems. So no worries. :)
 
I know a lot of people have cut them shorter without any issues, but if it were me I'd leave it alone. I believe those poles extend that far down to add more ridgidity to the tub sides when slamming the door closed. There's a second baffle and a bolt further down in the door jamb (below the catch) that holds the poles in position, this gives two points of contact to hold the B-pillar in alignment and act as a solid piece. If you cut the poles shorter, there're really nothing to prevent them from flexing right at the joint. The bolts on the flange are more than enough to hold the hardtop down, but they do nothing to hold the hardtop on the same plane as the tub side.

I think on mine, the problem is exacerbated because of the thicker door weatherstripping, when I push on the door near the latch, I can see the sides bowing inward slightly due to the pressure. If i didn't have those poles going all the way down into the jamb, I think I'd probably have a lot more deflection and have a harder time getting my doors to latch completely.

Just my $.02
 
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thread highjack!! sort of....

side note, what is the exact bolt size for attaching the windshield to the visor?? Are they the same as the bolts that attach to the body?? I say this because the body bolts will start, but feel like they're about to bind up and the last thing I want to do is strip the inserts in the windshield....

Oh and I hacked my poles off too, I haven't driven it that way yet though....
 
I wouldn't worry so much about the top flying off because if you're cruising at 60 MPH you're going downhill with a tailwind.
 
x2 what ducktapeguy said
 
LOL.... Thanks for all the info. I'm going ahead and just fixing the poles. Taking it off the TH and having a storage place is not an issue. I made some short saw horses for it to set on in our 2nd garage

myquestoyota: I wouldn't worry so much about the top flying off because if you're cruising at 60 MPH you're going downhill with a tailwind.

Yeah, I drive to work now in a MINI, and boy is it fast, but when the FJ is done, I'll just be cruising to work at a nice enjoyable pace.... the people behind me will not be happy, lol
 
Life is too short to spend much time looking in the rear view mirror anyway.
 

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