Builds Hammersaurus Lex - The LX470 gets tons (3 Viewers)

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Is Marshmellow gone, or just kicked to the curb?

He's good. But he's mostly functional so Im more in a break-fix mode.

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I'm so excited. Hurry up and get this thing wheeling!!
 
I'm so excited. Hurry up and get this thing wheeling!!
Dude, I know. Trying to get a driveshaft flange adapter so I can run a 1350 at the t-case. You have enough experience fabbricobbling things together... any ideas for something better than a 1310 CV that can bolt up to the 66x66x11 flange?
 
I’m guessing you don’t want to swap your pinion flanges for Toyota adapter flanges and run all Toyota drivelines for some reason (what I’d do, flippabble, good joints, common)

You could also make your driveshaft with Land Cruiser on one end and 1350 on the other. Get a 1350 yoke, get a cruiser yoke, one of which with a slip yoke, some tubing and weld it up.
Not flippable though and you’d need two different spare joints.

Or I could probably make you a sweet flange adapter
 
Why do you want a 1310 on the transfer case so badly?
I’m guessing you don’t want to swap your pinion flanges for Toyota adapter flanges and run all Toyota drivelines for some reason (what I’d do, flippabble, good joints, common)

You could also make your driveshaft with Land Cruiser on one end and 1350 on the other. Get a 1350 yoke, get a cruiser yoke, one of which with a slip yoke, some tubing and weld it up

Edit. Sorry, read 1310 instead of 1350

I want CVs at the t-case so I can keep the pinions out of the rocks. In retrospect... maybe not the best choice, but everything is burned in with that assumption (including pinion/caster angle relationship stuff).
 
I edited my previous post after re-reading.
Why not use a Toyota CV? They’re prettt strong and super common. It’s the same joint on any Tundra/Tacoma/4Runner etc
 
I edited my previous post after re-reading.
Why not use a Toyota CV? They’re prettt strong and super common. It’s the same joint on any Tundra/Tacoma/4Runner etc
Do they bolt up to the weird rear output of the land cruiser? I thought they were all 60x60 or some weird tundra pattern?
 
That may be true but the joints are the same. Swap on the cruiser yoke.
Also don’t be fooled into thinking that only driveshaft shops can build driveshafts. If you built all your own suspension you can build a driveshaft.
 
That may be true but the joints are the same. Swap on the cruiser yoke.
Also don’t be fooled into thinking that only driveshaft shops can build driveshafts. If you built all your own suspension you can build a driveshaft.
I can't balance them though
 
Next time someone asks, "how big of tires can I fit?", I will be sure to direct them to this thread.
 
I confuse
If its straight you'd be surprised how smooth they run without being balanced. I've always built mine between a couple mostly empty thirds, clamped to a piece of C-Channel. My cheapest dumpster indicator and favorite persuader.

If you want to balance it yourself I've heard of people using hose clamps, trial and error, and lots of patience. I'd just take it to a shop at that point, but I have yet to have a reason to do so.

Looking forward to finally seeing a hardcore 100 in action soon!
 
I just read this whole thread and have to say that's an epic build right there...
 
If its straight you'd be surprised how smooth they run without being balanced. I've always built mine between a couple mostly empty thirds, clamped to a piece of C-Channel. My cheapest dumpster indicator and favorite persuader.

If you want to balance it yourself I've heard of people using hose clamps, trial and error, and lots of patience. I'd just take it to a shop at that point, but I have yet to have a reason to do so.

Looking forward to finally seeing a hardcore 100 in action soon!

Yep. I've built about a dozen drivelines at home now with good success. Some have had some vibration at 50-60mph but others have been good up to 70-80. I have a lathe now so I can bore/turn yokes and tube to fit together perfectly but before I would just measure the OEM driveshaft tubes and find a DOM size that sleeved over nicely. There's usually a normal DOM size that will.

You're part-time now so your front driveshaft can really be anything. My front driveshaft is 2.5" Sch 80 pipe (.200" wall), I bored the ends to accept Toyota yokes.
 
Where did you learn how to do this? Is this your profession? Guessing not since you'd be doing this in a shop and not home garage. You got some incredible skills and was curious where you obtained the knowledge and experience to do these kinds of builds?

Also, is the strength of the frame compromised at all where you had to cut into it to install the rear coilover towers?
 
Where did you learn how to do this? Is this your profession? Guessing not since you'd be doing this in a shop and not home garage. You got some incredible skills and was curious where you obtained the knowledge and experience to do these kinds of builds?

Also, is the strength of the frame compromised at all where you had to cut into it to install the rear coilover towers?
Thanks! It's not all that hard. Just dive in and understand how stuff works and then go from there. Definitely not my profession.

Good question. The frame was reinforced by me on the backside where I frenched the coilovers. It's in the area between the two crossmembers where you have the old coil buckets so there's a lot of structure overall.
 

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