Yes, but I would say it is less than two inches.
Builds Hammersaurus Lex - The LX470 gets tons (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter nukegoat
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
And my travel trailer is on the hitch right now, so that pic is with the rear suspension compressed a little.
Yeah, muffler not related to axle movement. Just wanted to give a reference for the position of the LCA.
This is awesome to watch! I'm loving the progress. Keep it up!
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
- Thread starter
- #107
Made a huge notch for the frame and cut open the wheel well for the coilover tower to poke through:
I'm a big fan of the King 1.75
At flexy droop:
And at flexy stuff:
So the arguably bad news is that the rear will require a wheel spacer to avoid rubbing the coil on flex-stuff. I think I could get away with a 1" spacer but to give me a bit of margin as the coils bend and bow out of plane, I just bought a 1.5" spacer for each side. I don't want to run spacers on the front to avoid messing up the scrub radius, so the rear will now be a little wider than the front.
Note for anyone copying this in the future: Get a 75" wide rear and 76" wide front if you are using wheels with 4.75" backspacing (which is probably better for steering geometry?)
I'm a big fan of the King 1.75
At flexy droop:
And at flexy stuff:
So the arguably bad news is that the rear will require a wheel spacer to avoid rubbing the coil on flex-stuff. I think I could get away with a 1" spacer but to give me a bit of margin as the coils bend and bow out of plane, I just bought a 1.5" spacer for each side. I don't want to run spacers on the front to avoid messing up the scrub radius, so the rear will now be a little wider than the front.
Note for anyone copying this in the future: Get a 75" wide rear and 76" wide front if you are using wheels with 4.75" backspacing (which is probably better for steering geometry?)
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 578
- Messages
- 16,276
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Are those shock tabs 1/4"? They look thin but that's probably just the scale of everything else being so big. Are you going to brace the towers together or are you wanting room for spare tire like the 80?
Progress is progress keep it up
Progress is progress keep it up
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
- Thread starter
- #110
They are 1/4" thick. Gonna keep room for the spare.
As far as bracing the towers together, there's a few reasons why I think it's unnecessary.
1) Right where the frame is frenched is between two massive crossmembers that would prevent the frame from twisting. Additionally, the swoopy and overly beefy coil buckets add a ton of meat to that area - it's like a torsion box at this point. So I'm not worried about the frame fatiguing or bending...
2) As far as the tower itself, the coilover is fairly vertical so I'm not worried about it inducing much of a side load.
I did have a dream last night where I braced the towers together over the tire or something. Don't ask.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 578
- Messages
- 16,276
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
I don't need to question. I understand completely
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
- Thread starter
- #112
OK, bump stops, limit straps, and both coilover towers are burned in. Links are cut to final length, welded and painted. Rear axle skid plate is burned in.
Need to order driveshafts. Was thinking of just calling up one of the major driveshaft makers (Tom Woods, etc) rather than using the local guy. I had a driveshaft shop in paradise but... they got burned
Beefing back up the frame, brake lines, reservoir mounts, exhaust next...
Then all kinds of little stuff. Capping off the holes in the body, e-brake cables, ARB mount, seam sealer, welding body panels, fixing the weak steering....
Then it's finally the fun stuff like bumpers and skid plates and sway bars and leather
Need to order driveshafts. Was thinking of just calling up one of the major driveshaft makers (Tom Woods, etc) rather than using the local guy. I had a driveshaft shop in paradise but... they got burned
Beefing back up the frame, brake lines, reservoir mounts, exhaust next...
Then all kinds of little stuff. Capping off the holes in the body, e-brake cables, ARB mount, seam sealer, welding body panels, fixing the weak steering....
Then it's finally the fun stuff like bumpers and skid plates and sway bars and leather
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 578
- Messages
- 16,276
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
High-angle is up and running in Chico. You could probably put their Toyota conversion flanges on your axles and run Toyota drivelines
Last edited:
My goodness this pure pornography
Subbed.
Subbed.
South Bay drivelines, have used for few bmw/ls swaps and more... and local.
oops sorry to hear that.
Last edited:
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
- Thread starter
- #119
More progress... Refreshed bearings and seals in the transfer case and put in low range gears and a spool for part time.
Then welded on a smaller muffler to the exhaust. Some 40 dollar cheap thing. Will finish out to the rear bumper later. Don't need the dumb swoopy thing since the coils aren't in the way now...
Then did the brake lines with little tabs for p clamps and a three way tee:
Axle back under the rig. Just need driveshafts and she's drivable... ish
Then welded on a smaller muffler to the exhaust. Some 40 dollar cheap thing. Will finish out to the rear bumper later. Don't need the dumb swoopy thing since the coils aren't in the way now...
Then did the brake lines with little tabs for p clamps and a three way tee:
Axle back under the rig. Just need driveshafts and she's drivable... ish
Is Marshmellow gone, or just kicked to the curb?
