This has been really impressive to watch and your non-nonchalance about the scale of the project is enviable. Just curious, what sort of background taught you the skills and knowledge to take this on solo? I've seen your 80 but presumably this is a very different scope to build than one already running a SFA.
This has been really impressive to watch and your non-nonchalance about the scale of the project is enviable. Just curious, what sort of background taught you the skills and knowledge to take this on solo? I've seen your 80 but presumably this is a very different scope to build than one already running a SFA.
Thanks. I am not really sure, to be honest. I just like doing it. I don't think it's really all that hard at the end of the day, it just takes commitment and a willingness to light small piles of money on fire.
Battery moved a little, new mount made. coilovers reservoirs mounted, cables and brake lines run, m/c bled, bare metal painted and sheet metal edges covered. ps system bleeding still... Etc etc etc
But she is on the unicorns. With no coilover preload it's looking like about 1.5" too low which is perfect. Tons more to do but technically I can drive down the road all slammed like that.
Rear axle is on jackstands. Debating where to put links. May go with a 3 link in the rear to avoid having to make new upper link mounts that properly triangulate. Minimizing sheet metal removal will sort of dictate the axle placement:
Not sure what the stock 100 series motor mounts look like but if they're the glued rubber/plate style the driver's side can pull apart once you have dual cases, lower t-case gear, etc.. My 80 link bushing mounts transmission zero vibration to the cab but also allow almost no engine movement. They're perfect
Not sure what the stock 100 series motor mounts look like but if they're the glued rubber/plate style the driver's side can pull apart once you have dual cases, lower t-case gear, etc.. My 80 link bushing mounts transmission zero vibration to the cab but also allow almost no engine movement. They're perfect
What is your plan for gearing besides the 5.38 axle reduction? T-case to ~3.1:1? Trying to turn 42s with factory t-case gearing and 5.38s doesn't sound like it will work. Could you get adaptors made to fit the 100 series t-case and trans for a Marlin Taco Box built for the 2UZ in a Sequoia, Tundra, GX, 4R? Is there an Atlas that would work? I potentially want to do a 3-link front with coilovers on my 100 eventually and there does not seem to be gearing to keep up with the suspension. Nice build and I also don't see the point in putting time and money into radius arm SAS.
What is your plan for gearing besides the 5.38 axle reduction? T-case to ~3.1:1? Trying to turn 42s with factory t-case gearing and 5.38s doesn't sound like it will work. Could you get adaptors made to fit the 100 series t-case and trans for a Marlin Taco Box built for the 2UZ in a Sequoia, Tundra, GX, 4R? Is there an Atlas that would work? I potentially want to do a 3-link front with coilovers on my 100 eventually and there does not seem to be gearing to keep up with the suspension. Nice build and I also don't see the point in putting time and money into radius arm SAS.
I will put the low range gears in the t case.
5 speed auto has a nice lowish 1st gear. Other than that, nothin. On my 80 I ran 6.17s in the axles and it works well enough for me even with the a343f.
