Hairline Cracks In Cylinder Head -- Advice Please!

[NorCalFJ100]

You know, maybe I'm imagining that it worked. Maybe it slowed the leak a little. I suppose what really worked was whenever I started smelling burning oil I would grab a rag and wipe the head down to keep the oil off the exhaust manifold.

That's pretty much what I've been doing. Haha. Thanks!!!

 

[TomH]

Here's a picture of what it looked like under the heat shields. Might have been some valve cover gasket leakage too.

 

[Rifleman]

I was fine with using the FIPG, worked for me for almost three years and then the head gasket blew so the head had to come off.

My point was that after removing the head there is no way I would reuse it without getting it repaired, and to me that means welding. Not saying Loctite or JB weld wouldn't work but not a risk I would want to take if I was reworking the head.

My head has two cracks and there may even be more. I don't think repairing it is worth the money.

I agree, if i were to remove the head for a failed head gasket, and that head had these small cracks then i would pursue a more permanent repair then using Loctite.

In my case i have a 310 amp Tig welder in my shop, so I'd just grove/grind the crack, preheat the head, fill in the crack with some rod, then let the head slowly cool back to room temperature.

Then I'd finish up the repair by using a straight edge to make sure the head gasket mating surface wasn't warped. After that I'd put the head on the mill to machine the excess weld off of the valve cover rail where the repair was made so the gasket mating surface was smooth and flat again.

The only point i was trying to make about using Loctite, most customers don't want to spend the time and money it takes to fix the crack the right way. So using Loctite is a fast, and simple way to make a pretty leak resistant repair while the head is still bolted fast to their truck.

 

[TomH]

My cracked head has been sitting on the garage floor since I replaced it last month. I thought it would be good to get a couple more pictures of the cracks to document here. I heated the head to try to open the cracks to see how far they went and was a little surprised. I ended up tracing the cracks with a Sharpie to get better pictures.

First two pictures are the crack by cylinder 5.
Next two are by cylinder 2.

 

[SMXSHINGPUMPKINS]

This saga is not over.... Through research (literally only thread I saw on mud on hairline head cracks) I have learned that I am now the unfortunate owner of this exact truck. It Now 134k I have had it for about 2 years. bought it for 6k (probably with a blown head gasket and a cracked head)

I found this thread after owning this car for about two years, and a lot of money later... I was trying to get to the bottom of this oil leak Ive had. At this point the truck has been in the hands of many mechanics not to mention the one I bought it from. None of them mentioned these very obvious to trained eye cracks. I never noticed because I never looked for cracks on the outside or general until I took the valve cover off till yesterday. I figured it was just the gasket wasnt seated proper it was after market etc. Also I am self taught learning as I go not a trained mechanic by any means.. I had a head gasket done and there is no way the machine shop/ mechanics did not see these.

The story continues...

The truck blew the head gasket a while back after I bought it. Pretty sure I bought it blown and they just had put bars in there... Im not sure if @brukshut is who I bought the car from. I bought it from a guy named JR. at Northside Auto Repair in Brooklyn. My first drive with it one of the belts snapped on the Grand Central Parkway knocking my lower radiator hoses off and tranny cooler lines. Spent about full day in a thunderstorm in the parking lot behind a dunkin donuts dumpster on the side of the parkway trying to loosen the alternator bolt with tools I had to realize it was also an after market bolt and It was significantly shorter then stock. I couldn't get it to thread back on with new belt on... So, I had to call a tow truck. Note to anyone who drives through this part of NY... Never brake down on the GCP it is a privately owned road and there is only one tow company that is authorized with commercial plates to go there. minimum 200.00 tow no way around it. I payed to get it off parkway and my Insurance covered the tow back to the shop I bought it from they replaced it for free. Anyway as you can see I was off to a great start.

Jump forward a little bit. A lot of money on other parts and a head on collision which almost totaled the truck. I can post on that saga if interested and my battle with insurance etc.

It had been overheating for a bit I noticed coolant disappearing and needed a flush badly.. Since I am from NY I had met @Onur and had him redo the whole cooling system just to have the head gasket blow about 10 miles away leaving his house. He did give me fair warning that could happen. I pulled over the side of the Teconic put some K&W Fiber lock stop leak in and limped it back to the city 2 hours away. Debated how to tackle the blown head gasket as it was dead winter in NY and I didnt have a spot to work on my truck. I got a quote from a shop out on Long Island close to where I grew up. If I remember they quoted 2500 for the job. (BP gas station in St. James on 25a) I always drove by and saw cruisers outside. Figured they knew a thing or two. After much deliberation watching the idaho doug video (pre otramm video) trying to frantically clean a one car garage to work in (turned out truck wouldn't fit anyway) and weighing my time, I payed for the job.

Since I had the gasket done Ive had no issues with over heating. I run cool at 179-181F pretty regularly, highest is 186-190 at a dead stop. She's been cruising no problem, I put a fair amount of miles on her since. The whole time leaking slowly in those spots. I always thought since @brukshut replaced every bolt (literally every bolt... Last night I learned why....) that the cause of the leak was from aftermarket valve cover bolts not tightening properly. It was never really high on the priority list. I had worked on a laundry list of other issues that moved to the top and jumping forward to about last month I had discovered loss of coolant again. That one was an easy one. Rear heater bypass. Now with that out of the way and holding coolant I returned to the leaking valve as it was now leaking really bad to the point of coating the entire bell housing, block, oil pan etc she was "marking her territory" everywhere she went. I ordered the stock OEM valve cover bolts and a bunch of other parts, wits end Valve gasket kit, jegs oil separator etc. I figured the leak was a combo of aftermarket bolts and valve gasket or spark plug seals.

So I finally got around to addressing this. I pulled the cover last night. I had a sneaking suspicion that there was a crack for a while.. But figured the machine shop or someone, anyone who had worked on my truck would have mentioned it. But I confirmed my worst reality. Two cracks... Same two from 2011.... I wish I could see the pictures from @brukshut original post to see how much the cracks have grown in almost 10 years... But here is how they look in 2020 10 years later probably two blown head gaskets later. probably gearing up for her third. Honestly if he did JB weld it. I am impressed with how its held up.

Obviously I want a new head. But Im going to have to patch it for now. Going to have money and wait for it to blow a head gasket again or save the money to do the job myself with a used head (machined valve job etc) or new head, which ever comes first. Seems like a patch is a decent method considering it's lasted 10 years and 54k.

My questions are as follows

- Anyone selling a decent head haha? Id rather go this route since this seems to be a repeating offender. I imagine it will blow a head gasket again.
- Any good trusted shops in NY for machining when I get a head?
- What are the proper methods for prepping for a patch job.
- What is is the best method for patching? FIPG, JB weld, Locktite, Epoxy?

Id appreciate any help on this. As I am just now learning the full extent of my truck. Never thought to look for it on MUD. And the things I learned... Fire in Alabama.. the story is unreal and explains so much on my truck.

 

[SMXSHINGPUMPKINS]

New development...

I put it all back together for time being to get around.

I can see the cracks from the outside. Going to patch for now. Just need to figure out how to clean the inside myself so the loctite bonds properly.
Is there a specific type of loctite you all are using?

@clownmidget how did you clean the head for patch application?

 

[GSTMike]

@PFRELENG I can't offer any advice to aid you in patching your cracks but damn I'm sorry for all the troubles you've been through with you 80 mate!

 

[Rifleman]

Is there a specific type of loctite you all are using?

I use LOCTITE 290, because of its low viscosity and capillary action, I've used it to seal up thin cracks in castings and porosities in welds.

 

[SMXSHINGPUMPKINS]

Thanks @Rifleman

Just need to figure out how to properly clean the oil so it bonds to aluminum. Or is it even worth it to clean it before I loctite? Everything I know tells me it wont stick to oil sooo Id have to clean it really good.

The crack inside goes pretty far down. I need to do an oil change anyway. Do you all think i Should drain oil and clean with brakeclean (or what ever is appropriate) and a toothbrush in there or something?

Open to any suggestions MUD has to offer. I don't feel like paying a mechanic a couple hundred to "chemically clean" if you guys are all just smearing it on and calling it day and its working for you all

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Thanks @Rifleman

Just need to figure out how to properly clean the oil so it bonds to aluminum. Or is it even worth it to clean it before I loctite? Everything I know tells me it wont stick to oil sooo Id have to clean it really good.

The crack inside goes pretty far down. I need to do an oil change anyway. Do you all think i Should drain oil and clean with brakeclean (or what ever is appropriate) and a toothbrush in there or something?

Open to any suggestions MUD has to offer. I don't feel like paying a mechanic a couple hundred to "chemically clean" if you guys are all just smearing it on and calling it day and its working for you all

Curious about this as well. Need to do the same. Plan to buy the loctite that @Rifleman mentioned. I've tried so many other two-part welds, gasket makers and epoxies. None worked so far.

 

[Rifleman]

Clean the crack, and area around it real well with spray brake cleaner. Then use compressed air if you have it to dry off any left over brake cleaner, and to flush out as much oil as you can from inside the crack. You can get a set of small needle nozzles (from Harbor freight) to use on your air gun to pin point the air directly into the crack.

Another thing i like to do, i like to use a hand held map torch to lightly heat the crack and the area around the crack. What this does, it helps to dry and burn off any left over brake cleaner, and it helps to draw out any oil that's down inside the crack.

If oil keeps coming out of the crack, keep flushing the crack with brake cleaner and heating it until no more oil comes out. Another good point about using a map torch, it helps to expand the crack a little bit so the Loctite can flow deeper into the crack.

Now for an IMPORTANT WARNING!!!! If you use chlorinated brake cleaner, it can, and will produce chlorine gas when heated by a map torch, EVEN IF THE AREA YOU SPRAYED IT ON IS NOW DRY. Chlorine gas is poisonous, it destroys the respiratory organs of its victims and this leads to a slow death by asphyxiation!!!! So make sure you look on the cans label to confirm it's non chlorinated brake cleaner BEFORE you use it around HEAT!!!!

 

[SMXSHINGPUMPKINS]

Awesome! Thanks @Rifleman Solid advice.

You think I could get away with a propane torch? I know temps are bit different just trying to avoid buying a different torch/ fuel

I will definitely check that label before I spark anything....

Thanks again appreciate it.

Also side update on this...

I bought a used head for 350 on the forum last night cams and cover included. Waiting for it to come through Fastenal might be a while. Debating if I should wait to mill it etc till I blow another head gasket since I had one done about a year ago without overheating issues.

Or if I should just start the whole thing once I get the head. This time I'll be doing the head gasket myself.

Also who knows a good machine shop out in NYC/NY region?

 

[SNLC]

Honestly, I would buy a new head from Toyota. Or find a good used one but there is only a few people I would trust to buy a used head from.

Cheers

 

[Kernal]

The Green can of Brake cleaner (says "Environmentally Safe" on the can) at Wallysmart is a non-chlorine solvent, it's Acetone, an excellent degreaser.

 

[Ecliff5]

If anyone wants to see the follow up to this original post. 11 years and almost 60K+ miles later the 80 finally got a new, used rebuilt head to replace the cracked head. It also happend to be dead of winter again, and still no garage lol. Watch the video below.

 

[SMXSHINGPUMPKINS]

Here is part two of the video.



Lets get those h8 comments rolling

 

[bpenn1980]

So it seems the head cracks happen after having the head gasket done? Is that the consensus? And if so, why? Improper torque? Really curious because I've been thinking of having the head gasket done as PM.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

So it seems the head cracks happen after having the head gasket done? Is that the consensus? And if so, why? Improper torque? Really curious because I've been thinking of having the head gasket done as PM.

I think it becomes evident in a lot of cases after the HG because most people have an oily dirty engine bay. After the HG everything in that area is clean. I'm not even sure the hairline cracks would show up with a head pressure test beings that they only become a problem when the engine is at full operating temperature.

 

[SMXSHINGPUMPKINS]

So it seems the head cracks happen after having the head gasket done? Is that the consensus? And if so, why? Improper torque? Really curious because I've been thinking of having the head gasket done as PM.

In my case I believe the cracks were already there from the previous owner. I had missed them a long time. I thought the oil was leaking from the valve cover. It is my understanding the original owner was towing a boat with the cruiser and blew a hg. So it must have been replaced then? Maybe torqued on improperly? Over time head twists and cracks grew with excessive heat etc? I’m not even sure the cracks were affecting my hg or engine performance. My coolant looked like s***. I thought it was rust. So I brought it to Onur. It wasn’t until he pointed out the amount of hg stop leak in my cooling system that I became suspicious. I remember the call well. “Hey buddy… I think you got some bigger issues” haha. I couldn’t afford to fix anything there. He told me god speed good luck. Drive it like you stole it. Handed me some hg stop leak said you might need this.. I almost over heated maybe 5miles down the road haha. Scan gauge was reading 230. The only thing holding it together all rhat time must have been what ever clay bar bull s*** the previous owner threw in there. When Onur overhauled my cooling system it was all flushed out. None of us were thinking about cracks in the head. I poured the Kwik seal in and actually drove about 60miles back to Brooklyn. Drove it like that for few months actually haha. Waiting to just be left on the side of the road. The paranoia got to me and I found a guy on Long Island who works on cruisers. Payed him to do my first hg. It was a good price and he works on cruisers, owns a 80 himself. So I took the gamble.. Still no mention of cracks in the head. I don’t think the machine shop he took it too pressure tested it. They just milled it. So yeah drove it like that for ever. Ran great too. I eventually got tired of the oil coming from the top end. So I took the cover off to replace all the valve cover gaskets with the wits end kit. When I took the cover off that’s when I discovered the cracks. From the inside. I followed the hairlines and realized they were going through the entire head. Cleaned the outside from what I thought was old drips from the top was actually oil seeping through the walls of the head. I then could visibly see cracks. I think I drove it like that a year. Probably could have kept driving it. I’m not sure the cracks were affecting anything. It was pure paranoia and frustration that brought me to replacing the head. Btw it’s been running great. Almost been a year. I got to post the the follow up video haha

 

[zapatius]

In my case I believe the cracks were already there from the previous owner. I had missed them a long time. I thought the oil was leaking from the valve cover. It is my understanding the original owner was towing a boat with the cruiser and blew a hg. So it must have been replaced then? Maybe torqued on improperly? Over time head twists and cracks grew with excessive heat etc? I’m not even sure the cracks were affecting my hg or engine performance. My coolant looked like s***. I thought it was rust. So I brought it to Onur. It wasn’t until he pointed out the amount of hg stop leak in my cooling system that I became suspicious. I remember the call well. “Hey buddy… I think you got some bigger issues” haha. I couldn’t afford to fix anything there. He told me god speed good luck. Drive it like you stole it. Handed me some hg stop leak said you might need this.. I almost over heated maybe 5miles down the road haha. Scan gauge was reading 230. The only thing holding it together all rhat time must have been what ever clay bar bull s*** the previous owner threw in there. When Onur overhauled my cooling system it was all flushed out. None of us were thinking about cracks in the head. I poured the Kwik seal in and actually drove about 60miles back to Brooklyn. Drove it like that for few months actually haha. Waiting to just be left on the side of the road. The paranoia got to me and I found a guy on Long Island who works on cruisers. Payed him to do my first hg. It was a good price and he works on cruisers, owns a 80 himself. So I took the gamble.. Still no mention of cracks in the head. I don’t think the machine shop he took it too pressure tested it. They just milled it. So yeah drove it like that for ever. Ran great too. I eventually got tired of the oil coming from the top end. So I took the cover off to replace all the valve cover gaskets with the wits end kit. When I took the cover off that’s when I discovered the cracks. From the inside. I followed the hairlines and realized they were going through the entire head. Cleaned the outside from what I thought was old drips from the top was actually oil seeping through the walls of the head. I then could visibly see cracks. I think I drove it like that a year. Probably could have kept driving it. I’m not sure the cracks were affecting anything. It was pure paranoia and frustration that brought me to replacing the head. Btw it’s been running great. Almost been a year. I got to post the the follow up video haha

I just did mine. I cracked the head on my truck beyond repair. I got a used head and it took it to a very reputable aluminum head specialist. It was pressure tested and inspected. They found one hairline crack and welded it. Their opinion was that it was removed without sequencing the head bolts. I could see that. With the torque to yield head bolts, I'm not sure installing them would be improper torque. Maybe improper technique? Or not doing them in the correct sequence?