I'm actually going to have them powder coat the front plate and then I'll probably just have them prep the rest of the plates and paint them once I figure out which paint to go with.
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I'm actually going to have them powder coat the front plate and then I'll probably just have them prep the rest of the plates and paint them once I figure out which paint to go with.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Skids weigh about as much as another adult passenger in your car. 
The whole reason for skids is for protection, so in that regard, material, thickness, and coverage trump weight as a deciding factor for me. I went RCI over bud built, as they are 3/16" v 4mm (20% thicker), coverage about the same, and cheaper. Haven't done an oil change yet with them on, but I'd give the bud built the nod in that aspect, as it looks like they have a bigger panel. I've banged mine on the rocks a few times, and happy with the protection of the steel ones. Not a single soul bought these pigs for their fuel economy, and most everyone that bothers to put skids on had already put on a suspension upgrade that will easily handle all the weight that the GX is rated for, so I don't consider weight savings/less protection to be worth the cost for aluminum.
The whole reason for skids is for protection, so in that regard, material, thickness, and coverage trump weight as a deciding factor for me. I went RCI over bud built, as they are 3/16" v 4mm (20% thicker), coverage about the same, and cheaper. Haven't done an oil change yet with them on, but I'd give the bud built the nod in that aspect, as it looks like they have a bigger panel. I've banged mine on the rocks a few times, and happy with the protection of the steel ones. Not a single soul bought these pigs for their fuel economy, and most everyone that bothers to put skids on had already put on a suspension upgrade that will easily handle all the weight that the GX is rated for, so I don't consider weight savings/less protection to be worth the cost for aluminum.
Skids weigh about as much as another adult passenger in your car.
The whole reason for skids is for protection, so in that regard, material, thickness, and coverage trump weight as a deciding factor for me. I went RCI over bud built, as they are 3/16" v 4mm (20% thicker), coverage about the same, and cheaper. Haven't done an oil change yet with them on, but I'd give the bud built the nod in that aspect, as it looks like they have a bigger panel. I've banged mine on the rocks a few times, and happy with the protection of the steel ones. Not a single soul bought these pigs for their fuel economy, and most everyone that bothers to put skids on had already put on a suspension upgrade that will easily handle all the weight that the GX is rated for, so I don't consider weight savings/less protection to be worth the cost for aluminum.
I have seen quite a few people complain about mileage over on ClubLexus which confuses me.
With stock size Falken Rubitrek's though I'm still getting 17.5mpg on the whole tank with mixed driving and 20mpg+ on the highway so I'm happy.
I am actually thinking about just going with all stainless since the upcharge from BudBuilt is the same for stainless as it is for Aluminum.
It doesn't matter all that much for a 5300lb truck, but skid plates are the least intrusive place to add weight: basically the lowest point of the center of the vehicle.
Skids are high on my list of things to do and I am looking at Budbuilt because they seem to have the best GX-specific maintenance access. Their full coverage system is pricy but it does cover basically everything forward of the rear diff and I like that it all slots together.
Skids are high on my list of things to do and I am looking at Budbuilt because they seem to have the best GX-specific maintenance access. Their full coverage system is pricy but it does cover basically everything forward of the rear diff and I like that it all slots together.
There was a pretty good thread on this topic in January '21. I haven't been able to change the oil filter with the RCI on (draining oil with fumoto and tubing viable). I have a steel skid now (after destroying an aluminum) but still on the fence which is best for my needs (typically moderate overland-style driving)...https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rci-skid-plate-gx-460-weights-experiences-alu-steel.1238480/#post-13602588
Besides having easy access for oil & filter change, are there any restrictions or issues running skid plates with certain brand rock sliders?
I ask because I recall reading somewhere that some folks had issues running certain skid plates with certain rock sliders.
I have SSO Rock Sliders and I'm also considering adding skid plates. Just trying to avoid any future fitment/compatibility issues.
I ask because I recall reading somewhere that some folks had issues running certain skid plates with certain rock sliders.
I have SSO Rock Sliders and I'm also considering adding skid plates. Just trying to avoid any future fitment/compatibility issues.
Budbuilt 460 skids with useable oil filter access panel
https://budbuilt.com/Complete-Armor-Systems_c_459.html I should be getting the first set. Tank skid is the same as their 4R and you can order that now. If you do you own oil changes you will appreciate the load bearing access panel door for the oil filter. Apparently many revisions to...
forum.ih8mud.com
"Due to the HUGE increases in metal prices, we will have a significant increase in our prices on Dec. 1. We didn't think it honest or proper to increase our prices in October, then offer a "sale" in November. Therefore we will not be having a black friday promotion this year. But we have held to our pre metal increase prices thru the end of November. If you have plans to purchase something from us, soon would be a great time to save money.
Thanks for your understanding.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
meaing you can't get your hands/wrench up there with the smaller hole, or you just haven't had the chance?
I decided to just deal with removing the front OEM skid plate to change the oil.
Instead I just went ahead and grabbed the full length fuel tank skid plate since it was only $156 shipped from Toyota yesterday.
The reality is that I won't be doing anything with the GX that justifies me spending nearly $2500 for aftermarket skid plates just to make oil changes easier. I'll just be sure to put anti-seize on all of the bolts of the OEM skid plates when it's somewhat nice out and I feel better.
Instead I just went ahead and grabbed the full length fuel tank skid plate since it was only $156 shipped from Toyota yesterday.
The reality is that I won't be doing anything with the GX that justifies me spending nearly $2500 for aftermarket skid plates just to make oil changes easier. I'll just be sure to put anti-seize on all of the bolts of the OEM skid plates when it's somewhat nice out and I feel better.
You can just pickup the front Budbuilt skid for $323. It will coexist with the factory mid but it leaves that gap as seen in my pictures.
FRONT SKID PLATE | 2010 & UP GX460-FRONT GX460
budbuilt.com
r2m
Richard
If you destroyed an aluminum skid with your, "...typically moderate overland-style driving..." I wonder what your aggressive wheeling is like!!
I should have never checked this thread because I've now ordered my BudBuilt skids. I wonder if they protect me from the wrath of my wife...
Budbuilt 460 skids with useable oil filter access panel
https://budbuilt.com/Complete-Armor-Systems_c_459.html I should be getting the first set. Tank skid is the same as their 4R and you can order that now. If you do you own oil changes you will appreciate the load bearing access panel door for the oil filter. Apparently many revisions to...
"Due to the HUGE increases in metal prices, we will have a significant increase in our prices on Dec. 1. We didn't think it honest or proper to increase our prices in October, then offer a "sale" in November. Therefore we will not be having a black friday promotion this year. But we have held to our pre metal increase prices thru the end of November. If you have plans to purchase something from us, soon would be a great time to save money.
r2m
Richard
You'll just have to get her a better Christmas gift so she forgets about your skids! Jewelry, clothes??
I find that oil changes on the RCI skids are doable without taking the skid off, but require the right tools and patience.
1. Enough 3/8" extensions to reach the Oil Filter removal tool from the passenger wheel side.
2. Small enough funnel to manipulate through the small removable panel on the skid.
3. Patience when opening the filter housing to slowly let out the oil to prevent a mess.
4. Fumoto valve for oil pan for ease of oil draining.
1. Enough 3/8" extensions to reach the Oil Filter removal tool from the passenger wheel side.
2. Small enough funnel to manipulate through the small removable panel on the skid.
3. Patience when opening the filter housing to slowly let out the oil to prevent a mess.
4. Fumoto valve for oil pan for ease of oil draining.
Nicely done! Question re your RCI front skid. What space do you have between the sway bar and the skid? Wondering if the install of a KDSS spacer (e.g. from Treaty Oak) would drop the bar low enough to make contact with the skid?
I'm going to be installing the same spacers. Looks like they'll fit without an issue.
Budbuilt prices look to be the same? 01DEC21
re_guderian
SILVER Star
This is why the forum rocks! For whatever reason, I probably wouldn't have thought of this process. But it's also only 6 bolts to drop the skid, which I did with the OEM one anyway.
Definitely get steel for the front skids, that's the one that will take the majority of the abuse. You could go with aluminum for the rest, but the GX is a heavy beast that steel gives more piece of mind when you do take a hard hit.
I have the full set of RCI skids, and one thing I would do is cut some holes to match up with the holes on the front cross member. The way it's designed it covers all the holes on the bottom but the top remains open, which traps tons of dirt and moisture in there.
These are the holes I'm talking about
This is how much dirt can get trapped in there. The front crossmember was fully packed when I took the skids off. almost up to the engine mounts
I have the full set of RCI skids, and one thing I would do is cut some holes to match up with the holes on the front cross member. The way it's designed it covers all the holes on the bottom but the top remains open, which traps tons of dirt and moisture in there.
These are the holes I'm talking about
This is how much dirt can get trapped in there. The front crossmember was fully packed when I took the skids off. almost up to the engine mounts
Skids weigh about as much as another adult passenger in your car.
The whole reason for skids is for protection, so in that regard, material, thickness, and coverage trump weight as a deciding factor for me. I went RCI over bud built, as they are 3/16" v 4mm (20% thicker), coverage about the same, and cheaper. Haven't done an oil change yet with them on, but I'd give the bud built the nod in that aspect, as it looks like they have a bigger panel. I've banged mine on the rocks a few times, and happy with the protection of the steel ones. Not a single soul bought these pigs for their fuel economy, and most everyone that bothers to put skids on had already put on a suspension upgrade that will easily handle all the weight that the GX is rated for, so I don't consider weight savings/less protection to be worth the cost for aluminum.
I as well have the RCI skids. I lube my prop shafts every oil change. The skid plates need to come down to gain access to the front prop shaft. I usually have 10 lbs of dirt and rocks built up on the skids as well.
If you lightly wheel buy the ARBs. Aluminum and inexpensive in comparison to other brands.
If your more aggressive offroader or like myself purposely sticking your vehicle for training purposes, buy steel skid plates of whatever brand is to your liking.
