Last 2 times I performed the fluid level check, the final 1/4-1/2 qt came out foamy. Tomorrow I’m putting in this. Starting to understand why the transmission had an extra 1.5 QTs in it when I got it.
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Once I put the truck in reverse, I have to run the motor up to 4K RPMs before reverse works. Sucking air? Causing foaming/cavitation, starving for fluid?Last 2 times I performed the fluid level check, the final 1/4-1/2 qt came out foamy. Tomorrow I’m putting in this. Starting to understand why the transmission had an extra 1.5 QTs in it when I got it. View attachment 4049613
I like your approach with the heat gun for ohm readings. Will be trying that soonChasing the same issue on friend's 2012 GX460. Tested both speed sensors, the input speed sensor showed 0 Ohms after removing from the vehicle while the sensor was still warm. Tested several times to make sure the sensor was still showing 0. At the same time the rear speed sensor was around 626 Ohms which is in range. Went to local dealership to pickup a new sensor. The new sensor was at 625-630 Ohms. Tested the original input sensor after it was out of the car for approximately 45 minutes and it started showing a reading 620-650 Ohms. Heated up the sensor with heat gun to imitate working condition and the sensor went back to 0. Installed the new sensor, will post an update as I get more info.
At 206K, if the trans fluid has never been changed, I would NOT touch it. And many reputable trans shops have said the same. I went down the route of servicing, filtering, filter change, etc. and I wouldn’t do it again. If you still have good forward shifts and still have reverse with no hesitation, I’d clear the code and move on. I would suggest to not do anything until the transmission forces you.Hello all, just stated getting P2716 only after parking her outside for the first time in ages. I have a 2011 with 206K. I'm only getting this one code stored and the shifitng is buttery smooth. Never chagned the transmission fluid. Chat GPT is telling me under no circumstances should I replace the transmission. Drain, fill, clear the CEL drive for 5K and repeat. I tend to really agree with the AI logic here. Thoughts?
Solid logic as well.At 206K, if the trans fluid has never been changed, I would NOT touch it. And many reputable trans shops have said the same. I went down the route of servicing, filtering, filter change, etc. and I wouldn’t do it again. If you still have good forward shifts and still have reverse with no hesitation, I’d clear the code and move on. I would suggest to not do anything until the transmission forces you.
I’ve been reading the Sonnax plug section on pg 5-6 of this thread. I’m not yet sure what connection it might have to my reverse problem, but if the plug is leaking, it could be the reason why I have to wind the truck up to fill the vein feeding reverse solenoid. And would explain why I have reverse for a short period of time after but I slowly lose it if I don’t use it. I will be ordering the Sonnax kit attempting the repairOnce I get it into reverse, reverse will function fine shortly after. But if I don’t use it for a while or the trans cools down, it’s back to running the engine up to 4-5K RPMs to catch. Like it has to suck up enough fluid to fill all the channels again. And if it sucking up foam, it’s that much more fluid it has to pull.
BP, do you think it would be possible to loosen the VB enough, with completely removing, to push the plug keeper up while you remove the plug with a magnet? Do you think there may be enough room to push up the keeper without loosening the VB? How tough was it to get the plug moving?View attachment 3625770The valve body splits into 3 large pieces with a couple of plates, keeps, and detent balls between the pieces. Start removing all of the bolts so you can separate the pieces. Use the bottom plate(arrows) to pull the top half of the valve body off, if you don't you could lose detent balls and keeps. View attachment 3625774View attachment 3625772When you separate the valvebody place the bolts into the base because they are all different lengths.View attachment 3625776View attachment 3625780the keep that needs to be removed is pictures above, use a pick and magnet to remove it and slowly work the plug out with the pick.
Use lots of brake cleaner to clean your grime out of the valvebody, insert the new plug and the old keep, them reassemble. You will need about a gallon and a half of WS fluid to refill the transmission.
Replacing the transmission speed sensor didn't help, codes are back after two weeks.
Just curious does anyone who has these codes currently but not experiencing any drivability problems have a valley plate leak issue? Just wondering if a coolant could be getting into the harness somewhere and causing the issue?
Replacing the transmission speed sensor didn't help, codes are back after two weeks.
Just curious does anyone who has these codes currently but not experiencing any drivability problems have a valley plate leak issue? Just wondering if a coolant could be getting into the harness somewhere and causing the issue?
Highly unlikely a valley plate would cause issues. The harness plugs are sealed and no where near for a VP leak to cause an issue.Replacing the transmission speed sensor didn't help, codes are back after two weeks.
Just curious does anyone who has these codes currently but not experiencing any drivability problems have a valley plate leak issue? Just wondering if a coolant could be getting into the harness somewhere and causing the issue?
Agreed. If enough coolant was leaking to cause the code, you’d prob have overheating problems.Highly unlikely a valley plate would cause issues. The harness plugs are sealed and no where near for a VP leak to cause an issue.