GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread

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Last 2 times I performed the fluid level check, the final 1/4-1/2 qt came out foamy. Tomorrow I’m putting in this. Starting to understand why the transmission had an extra 1.5 QTs in it when I got it.
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Last 2 times I performed the fluid level check, the final 1/4-1/2 qt came out foamy. Tomorrow I’m putting in this. Starting to understand why the transmission had an extra 1.5 QTs in it when I got it. View attachment 4049613
Once I put the truck in reverse, I have to run the motor up to 4K RPMs before reverse works. Sucking air? Causing foaming/cavitation, starving for fluid?
 
Chasing the same issue on friend's 2012 GX460. Tested both speed sensors, the input speed sensor showed 0 Ohms after removing from the vehicle while the sensor was still warm. Tested several times to make sure the sensor was still showing 0. At the same time the rear speed sensor was around 626 Ohms which is in range. Went to local dealership to pickup a new sensor. The new sensor was at 625-630 Ohms. Tested the original input sensor after it was out of the car for approximately 45 minutes and it started showing a reading 620-650 Ohms. Heated up the sensor with heat gun to imitate working condition and the sensor went back to 0. Installed the new sensor, will post an update as I get more info.
 
Chasing the same issue on friend's 2012 GX460. Tested both speed sensors, the input speed sensor showed 0 Ohms after removing from the vehicle while the sensor was still warm. Tested several times to make sure the sensor was still showing 0. At the same time the rear speed sensor was around 626 Ohms which is in range. Went to local dealership to pickup a new sensor. The new sensor was at 625-630 Ohms. Tested the original input sensor after it was out of the car for approximately 45 minutes and it started showing a reading 620-650 Ohms. Heated up the sensor with heat gun to imitate working condition and the sensor went back to 0. Installed the new sensor, will post an update as I get more info.
I like your approach with the heat gun for ohm readings. Will be trying that soon
 
Hello all, just started getting P2716 only after parking her outside on an incline for the first time in ages. I have a 2011 with 206K. I'm only getting this one code stored and the shifitng is buttery smooth. Never chagned the transmission fluid. Chat GPT is telling me under no circumstances should I replace the transmission. Drain, fill, clear the CEL drive for 5K and repeat. I tend to really agree with the AI logic here. Thoughts?
 
Hello all, just stated getting P2716 only after parking her outside for the first time in ages. I have a 2011 with 206K. I'm only getting this one code stored and the shifitng is buttery smooth. Never chagned the transmission fluid. Chat GPT is telling me under no circumstances should I replace the transmission. Drain, fill, clear the CEL drive for 5K and repeat. I tend to really agree with the AI logic here. Thoughts?
At 206K, if the trans fluid has never been changed, I would NOT touch it. And many reputable trans shops have said the same. I went down the route of servicing, filtering, filter change, etc. and I wouldn’t do it again. If you still have good forward shifts and still have reverse with no hesitation, I’d clear the code and move on. I would suggest to not do anything until the transmission forces you.
 
At 206K, if the trans fluid has never been changed, I would NOT touch it. And many reputable trans shops have said the same. I went down the route of servicing, filtering, filter change, etc. and I wouldn’t do it again. If you still have good forward shifts and still have reverse with no hesitation, I’d clear the code and move on. I would suggest to not do anything until the transmission forces you.
Solid logic as well.

Maybe clear the CEL and guage how long it takes to come back? If it comes back within a few days or weeks think about options? Or, best case, it's gone for a year or more.
 
Finally some success…I might jinx it saying that. Last week I put Lubeguard in. One 10oz bottle and about 4-6 oz of trans fluid to flush the fill hose. I saw a small improvement in forward gear shifts. Nothing major. Still had a lag 3-4 and reverse wouldn’t kick in till 4K RPMs.

So I ordered a set of 9 refurbished solenoids off EBay. Came in today. Some looked a little banged up. I swapped all but the 1-2 solenoid since I wasn’t having a problem there and the replacement looked rough. Test drive: took 5 minutes to see improvement. Didn’t initially have reverse to get off the ramps. By the time I got home (approx 7 minutes), I saw a huge difference in shifting. And, full reverse on demand, no hesitation. Turned the truck off for 20 minutes. Restart, full reverse immediately and no 1 second hesitation for first gear from park.

I’ll update in a couple days. Needing to see the cold start tomorrow morning to determine level of success
 
Cold start had poor reverse power. Bad shifts from 2-3 and up, some worse than before solenoid change. Reverse problems have returned.

I don’t understand the difference between last night and this morning. I think it has something to fluid pressure/cavitation/flow volume. I don’t know if it’s sucking air, maybe foaming the fluid, etc. but after last night I’m pretty sure it’s not the solenoids, clutches, wiring harness, fluid composition.
 
Once I get it into reverse, reverse will function fine shortly after. But if I don’t use it for a while or the trans cools down, it’s back to running the engine up to 4-5K RPMs to catch. Like it has to suck up enough fluid to fill all the channels again. And if it sucking up foam, it’s that much more fluid it has to pull.
 
Once I get it into reverse, reverse will function fine shortly after. But if I don’t use it for a while or the trans cools down, it’s back to running the engine up to 4-5K RPMs to catch. Like it has to suck up enough fluid to fill all the channels again. And if it sucking up foam, it’s that much more fluid it has to pull.
I’ve been reading the Sonnax plug section on pg 5-6 of this thread. I’m not yet sure what connection it might have to my reverse problem, but if the plug is leaking, it could be the reason why I have to wind the truck up to fill the vein feeding reverse solenoid. And would explain why I have reverse for a short period of time after but I slowly lose it if I don’t use it. I will be ordering the Sonnax kit attempting the repair
 
View attachment 3625770The valve body splits into 3 large pieces with a couple of plates, keeps, and detent balls between the pieces. Start removing all of the bolts so you can separate the pieces. Use the bottom plate(arrows) to pull the top half of the valve body off, if you don't you could lose detent balls and keeps. View attachment 3625774View attachment 3625772When you separate the valvebody place the bolts into the base because they are all different lengths.View attachment 3625776View attachment 3625780the keep that needs to be removed is pictures above, use a pick and magnet to remove it and slowly work the plug out with the pick.

Use lots of brake cleaner to clean your grime out of the valvebody, insert the new plug and the old keep, them reassemble. You will need about a gallon and a half of WS fluid to refill the transmission.
BP, do you think it would be possible to loosen the VB enough, with completely removing, to push the plug keeper up while you remove the plug with a magnet? Do you think there may be enough room to push up the keeper without loosening the VB? How tough was it to get the plug moving?

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Replacing the transmission speed sensor didn't help, codes are back after two weeks.

Just curious does anyone who has these codes currently but not experiencing any drivability problems have a valley plate leak issue? Just wondering if a coolant could be getting into the harness somewhere and causing the issue?
 
Replacing the transmission speed sensor didn't help, codes are back after two weeks.

Just curious does anyone who has these codes currently but not experiencing any drivability problems have a valley plate leak issue? Just wondering if a coolant could be getting into the harness somewhere and causing the issue?

Replacing the transmission speed sensor didn't help, codes are back after two weeks.

Just curious does anyone who has these codes currently but not experiencing any drivability problems have a valley plate leak issue? Just wondering if a coolant could be getting into the harness somewhere and causing the issue?
 
Replacing the transmission speed sensor didn't help, codes are back after two weeks.

Just curious does anyone who has these codes currently but not experiencing any drivability problems have a valley plate leak issue? Just wondering if a coolant could be getting into the harness somewhere and causing the issue?
Highly unlikely a valley plate would cause issues. The harness plugs are sealed and no where near for a VP leak to cause an issue.
 
Just a side note.. there have been reports of (IIRC) knock sensor harness connectors being taken out by major valley plate leaks but that should show up as codes for those sensors
 
Shopping for refurbished valve bodies. Is there a difference between the A460E and A460F 8870 casting and solenoids? They look to be interchangeable is the last better o my refers to the addition of the transfer case.
 
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