That sounds like bull**** and a way to tack $80 on. If it was real they could use a battery charger to maintain charge to the car while changing the battery.
GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread
- Thread starter StriderWolf
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That sounds like bull**** and a way to tack $80 on. If it was real they could use a battery charger to maintain charge to the car while changing the battery.
- Thread starter
- #402
Yeah… no clue, I’ll ask more questions. 99% of the time I do it myself but this is my wife’s car and we were in a bind.
Hey everyone, just wanted to check back in again. I think I'm the only one with a Lexus IS 350 but facing the exact same issue. Sport shifting since 140,000 miles. I've got 215,000 miles on the clock and still shifts perfectly fine otherwise. In fact I don't even need to sport shift 80% of the time, it's just the odd ball days it decides to not shift into 4th and throws the two codes. At this point I am just so curious what the core issue is. A full transmission rebuild does not seem to be necessary. I feel like with 65,000 miles of city/highway driving I would notice the issue worsening or just the transmission overall showing signs of wear.
- Thread starter
- #404
Exactly… Makes no sense for those who have been sport shifting for a few years, have changed the fluid, checked the level and even tested the solenoids. But only if like yourself it’s working.
Before you started sport shifting, was it hitting codes daily? I am asking as ours was. It went from once a month to weekly and then daily. In the last month, we changed the battery and tried to do normal automatic shifting and magically, codes haven’t thrown even when it’s 30-50 degrees as cold weather made it worse. It operates fine at normal temp and shifts like a button.
We are now happy we didn’t shell out the $6-7k for a reman, but it’s been 2 weeks of no codes, so we don’t trust it. Just wish we and everyone nationally knew a few culprits of the issue when things have been chased down.
- Thread starter
- #406
Sorry to hear… I’d recommend reading back through this entire thread.
Start with easy things such as the fluid, fluid level and you can have a good transmission shop review and potentially recommend replacing a few solenoids.
But again, give the thread a read. Right now a reman Lexus transmission is $800-900 off making it $2900. Labor is usually $2500-3000.
Or join the sport shift club.
Let us know what you find out.
Never even thought to try the sport shifting. Does that seem to be the work around until it’s properly fixed?
- Thread starter
- #408
Yup, for some. Some have done it for multiple years. Just depends on your transmission, symptoms and issues.
Here’s my GX460 transmission story: I’m skipping over all the code flashes, sport shifting, etc. y’all dont need another description of all that. I’m trying to get to the meat of the problem.
Bought the 2011 truck w/ 168K on the clock. Would hesitate to shift into reverse. The transition from 2nd to third would drop out before catching. This was only a problem for the first 5 minutes after a cold start. Would throw a code every week or so.
I performed a transmission service. Here’s where it gets odd. Drained out a total of 6.5 quarts. Put back in 7 quarts. Leveled the vehicle and performed the fluid level check per FSM. Drained 2 quarts.
So…1.5 quarts too much when I bought it.
Pulled all the Lexus service records which went through 115K miles. Service on the “air pump” for the suspension was performed 3 times.
BUT this is a base model, doesn’t have an air suspension. Odd, right?
During trans service: drain plug has a tough spot to get through going in or out. Leveling plug has zero previous marks. Fill plug has very light wear. Pan bolts have never been touched. Gasket comes off in pieces. Fluid very dark. Not a noticeable amount of metal on magnets. Lotta sludge in pan. Filter manufacture date matches truck assembly date within 2 months (original).
After service: zero improvement. Reverse problem got much worse. Some days I have to push the truck to the edge of the driveway incline and coast it down the driveway. The reverse problem is only during startup. After it’s been driven a few miles, it’ll drop into reverse with a short hesitation. So I always back into the driveway and all parking spots because I never know when it’s going to fail.
This weekend I drained 3 more quarts and put in 4.5 quarts. Here’s my thought process: Toyota techs figured out overfilling the fluid helped the shift delay, maybe. And the air pump service was really a drain and overfill without Toyota having to admit a trans problem or honor a warranty.
I filtered the fluid from this weekends drain (less than 2K miles after 1st service). Got out a couple particles that felt like cork or tree bark. I assume this is nonmetalic material from interior components.
I’m pretty handy with tools, so replacing the tranny is not huge deal for me. I’ve previously rebuilt every system on my LX450 (besides the trans), including the engine. My theory: It’s a LA/MS truck, hot summers. Trans overheated at some point cooking the internal non metallic components. Those are coming apart and clogging the solenoids. The overfill used to keep the solenoids drenched, helping keep them clean.
My plan: pull all the solenoids, clean thoroughly, filter the fluid very well and continue a drain, filter, and fill program using any fluid I pull out every few months. If this doesn’t help, I’m afraid it’s time for a rebuilt unit.
Does anybody have experience putting in an inline trans fluid filter on one of the trans cooler lines?
Bought the 2011 truck w/ 168K on the clock. Would hesitate to shift into reverse. The transition from 2nd to third would drop out before catching. This was only a problem for the first 5 minutes after a cold start. Would throw a code every week or so.
I performed a transmission service. Here’s where it gets odd. Drained out a total of 6.5 quarts. Put back in 7 quarts. Leveled the vehicle and performed the fluid level check per FSM. Drained 2 quarts.
So…1.5 quarts too much when I bought it. Pulled all the Lexus service records which went through 115K miles. Service on the “air pump” for the suspension was performed 3 times.
BUT this is a base model, doesn’t have an air suspension. Odd, right?
During trans service: drain plug has a tough spot to get through going in or out. Leveling plug has zero previous marks. Fill plug has very light wear. Pan bolts have never been touched. Gasket comes off in pieces. Fluid very dark. Not a noticeable amount of metal on magnets. Lotta sludge in pan. Filter manufacture date matches truck assembly date within 2 months (original).
After service: zero improvement. Reverse problem got much worse. Some days I have to push the truck to the edge of the driveway incline and coast it down the driveway. The reverse problem is only during startup. After it’s been driven a few miles, it’ll drop into reverse with a short hesitation. So I always back into the driveway and all parking spots because I never know when it’s going to fail.
This weekend I drained 3 more quarts and put in 4.5 quarts. Here’s my thought process: Toyota techs figured out overfilling the fluid helped the shift delay, maybe. And the air pump service was really a drain and overfill without Toyota having to admit a trans problem or honor a warranty.
I filtered the fluid from this weekends drain (less than 2K miles after 1st service). Got out a couple particles that felt like cork or tree bark. I assume this is nonmetalic material from interior components.
I’m pretty handy with tools, so replacing the tranny is not huge deal for me. I’ve previously rebuilt every system on my LX450 (besides the trans), including the engine. My theory: It’s a LA/MS truck, hot summers. Trans overheated at some point cooking the internal non metallic components. Those are coming apart and clogging the solenoids. The overfill used to keep the solenoids drenched, helping keep them clean.
My plan: pull all the solenoids, clean thoroughly, filter the fluid very well and continue a drain, filter, and fill program using any fluid I pull out every few months. If this doesn’t help, I’m afraid it’s time for a rebuilt unit.
Does anybody have experience putting in an inline trans fluid filter on one of the trans cooler lines?
for some on here not everyone including the two we had in posting an update so far.
Sport shifting doesnt really help me. It will hang on the same gears as it does in automatic mode regardless of my shift. Obviously no help for my reverse problem.
I still believe we are all experiencing the same problem, nonmetallic debris being caught in the solenoids/valve body. I think it just depends on which solenoid and fluid channel gets hit the hardest. Mine is reverse, seconded by the 3-4 shift. And I think random hiccups come from debris moving through the VB and solenoids. I believe I loosened up more material with my trans service.
As for an update on our little situation we had found that solenoids S3 and SLT on the tundra had stopped working even with voltage checks etc. We replaced them in tundra. Client was informed to keep us updated regularly that it may not be a permanent fix. On the Lexus we are making a decision weather to go with a valve body or whole transmission at this point. The solenoids on both vehicles had wear on the insertion side could potentially be fixed short term with adding material to solenoid holes and boring them to spec but debating how short/long term that will be and if its worth it for the customer.
- Thread starter
- #413
THANK YOU! So awesome to hear from a shop that knows its stuff and is helping the greater good! Hope all works out for the clients and thank you for being a trustworthy place!
- Thread starter
- #414
If that’s the case, would love to continue to get updates as you replace more fluid. I will say, that is the other thing I didn’t add as a variable on mine that could go for why it stopped throwing codes.
Thanks for being a part of this solve and helping us all out as you journey through this.
- Thread starter
- #415
*UPDATE* Codes came back… Don’t you hate reading that…
Oddly, after 2 weeks of no codes and even CO temps down to 20-30s, nothing for two weeks after a new battery was installed. Keep in mind I’d say we’ve had 15-18 qts of fresh fluid in the last 2 years and 12 of that in the last year. Had the solenoids originally checked 2.5 years ago with no issues and they work fine after the car shows warmed up.
Anyhow, yay, but back to sports shift. I’d be curious on the theory of with more fluid changes more particulates come out as it’s better now than it was 2 years ago. 2 years ago it flipped the code below 50 degrees every day.
Our future is sports shift until we have the stuck in 3-4 or reverse. Well then do a reman from Lexus, at Lexus and try to get the deals on parts that happen yearly to drop the cost.
Shoot…. Could be worse though.
Oddly, after 2 weeks of no codes and even CO temps down to 20-30s, nothing for two weeks after a new battery was installed. Keep in mind I’d say we’ve had 15-18 qts of fresh fluid in the last 2 years and 12 of that in the last year. Had the solenoids originally checked 2.5 years ago with no issues and they work fine after the car shows warmed up.
Anyhow, yay, but back to sports shift. I’d be curious on the theory of with more fluid changes more particulates come out as it’s better now than it was 2 years ago. 2 years ago it flipped the code below 50 degrees every day.
Our future is sports shift until we have the stuck in 3-4 or reverse. Well then do a reman from Lexus, at Lexus and try to get the deals on parts that happen yearly to drop the cost.
Shoot…. Could be worse though.
New fluid has a higher viscosity than used fluid. This same property allows it to suspend particles better. If there is a deposit of particles somewhere, new fluid can carry them. This is why I think my problem has become much worse with continues fluid changes. This Sunday I’m going to pull the pan again and clean and test each solenoid. I’m expecting to find large particles preventing full movement. All of this is a temporary fix until I can change the entire trans.
Did someone already try putting a filter in the trans fluid cooling circuit?
I have not. I know it’ll just be a bandaid until whatever has come apart ultimately fails. What I find on Sunday will or won’t send me down that rabbit hole
Pulled the pan and all solenoids last night. Here are the results:
Fluid very clean, pulled out 6.5 qts. Replaced 6 qts. Recall I was 1.5 qts over level previously. Not many large particles filtering through a t shirt. Some, not much.
Pulled all solenoids. Cleaned with CRC Lectra-Motive. Pictures below. I’m not the world’s best photographer.
A few comments on the process:
I pulled and cleaned one at a time, replacing before I pulled the next. If you pull SL1/SLT, SL2/SLU, the keeper/alignment pins will fall out. It takes a little patience and attention to get them back in and the keeper plates all in place while you put the retainer bolt back in. Don’t lose the pins. All solenoids had black material on them. Looks like the same wear metal you find on the magnets. You can see it on the paper towels below. I’m assuming it settles on the solenoids because of the electromagnetism nature and the tight tolerances. Some of the solenoids have extremely tight fitment and you will need to coat in trans fluid to reinsert. S2 removal requires a VB bolt to be removed to pull. Unplugging the wiring harness is a problem. I used a pick to assist in unplugging. Some of the plastic on the solenoids cracked. They seem to still be holding well, but could be the cause of the results below. Noticeable exterior wear on some solenoids. Shift solenoids fit much tighter than solenoids retained with pins. Non shift solenoid screens were clear. See below. This is where I expected to find debris.
Last nights test drive showed little improvement.
This mornings test drive: little reverse action initially like it was halfway in gear for a minute, then it kicked in. 1,2,3 gears fine. Would NOT shift over 3rd. Took it up to 5000 RPM for several minutes, back down, etc. no shift. Will run through 1,2,3 beautifully, far better than before. Got back home, reverse works great.
Sport shift up and down works 1,2,3 but not over 3. When I drop it into sport shift when it should be in 4 or above, the dash screen says 4. Down and up shifting from that point does nothing.
Today’s plan: drain and filter fluid and pull pan. Pull S3 and S4. Clean again, bench test. Reinstall. Set fluid at proper level per FSM.
Fluid very clean, pulled out 6.5 qts. Replaced 6 qts. Recall I was 1.5 qts over level previously. Not many large particles filtering through a t shirt. Some, not much.
Pulled all solenoids. Cleaned with CRC Lectra-Motive. Pictures below. I’m not the world’s best photographer.
A few comments on the process:
I pulled and cleaned one at a time, replacing before I pulled the next. If you pull SL1/SLT, SL2/SLU, the keeper/alignment pins will fall out. It takes a little patience and attention to get them back in and the keeper plates all in place while you put the retainer bolt back in. Don’t lose the pins. All solenoids had black material on them. Looks like the same wear metal you find on the magnets. You can see it on the paper towels below. I’m assuming it settles on the solenoids because of the electromagnetism nature and the tight tolerances. Some of the solenoids have extremely tight fitment and you will need to coat in trans fluid to reinsert. S2 removal requires a VB bolt to be removed to pull. Unplugging the wiring harness is a problem. I used a pick to assist in unplugging. Some of the plastic on the solenoids cracked. They seem to still be holding well, but could be the cause of the results below. Noticeable exterior wear on some solenoids. Shift solenoids fit much tighter than solenoids retained with pins. Non shift solenoid screens were clear. See below. This is where I expected to find debris.
Last nights test drive showed little improvement.
This mornings test drive: little reverse action initially like it was halfway in gear for a minute, then it kicked in. 1,2,3 gears fine. Would NOT shift over 3rd. Took it up to 5000 RPM for several minutes, back down, etc. no shift. Will run through 1,2,3 beautifully, far better than before. Got back home, reverse works great.
Sport shift up and down works 1,2,3 but not over 3. When I drop it into sport shift when it should be in 4 or above, the dash screen says 4. Down and up shifting from that point does nothing.
Today’s plan: drain and filter fluid and pull pan. Pull S3 and S4. Clean again, bench test. Reinstall. Set fluid at proper level per FSM.
