Guys with Freezer Fridges (1 Viewer)

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Ran a circuit from the 2nd battery to the rear cargo area for my Waeco CF50. Fused at the battery and a fuse block at the rear. I used a Marinco locking outlet...wouldn't do it again POS! And like others have said elsewhere be sure to do yourself a favor when running an additional outlet...put two there (you'll use them...trust me)!
 
spressomon said:
Ran a circuit from the 2nd battery to the rear cargo area for my Waeco CF50. Fused at the battery and a fuse block at the rear. I used a Marinco locking outlet...wouldn't do it again POS! And like others have said elsewhere be sure to do yourself a favor when running an additional outlet...put two there (you'll use them...trust me)!

What didn't yhou like about the Marinco outlet?

I am looking into options for mine... what would you use now?

Thanks! :D
 
Wrench,

Just to clarify things a bit....the purpose of a fuse is to protect the wire that's going to your device. Usually, most devices will have their own fuse as well. So, make sure to install a proper sized fuse based on the wire size going to your aux fuse panel or whatever that'll be going back there! If you cut corners here, you'll smell burt insulation, worse, have the carpet catch on fire!

Good luck.
 
cruiseroutfit said:
What didn't yhou like about the Marinco outlet?

I am looking into options for mine... what would you use now?

Thanks! :D

Kurt, I originally thought the locking connector with more spade surface area would be the ticket plus having the security of a locked connection. And it would have been just that if Marinco made one of these connectors that mounted via a square 'hole' in the mounting surface. You see with their stupid design engineering they made the the whole receptacle in a round shape. So in actual use when you rotate the plug to engage/connect with the receptacle (and the reverse when disengaging/disconnecting the plug) the whole base of the receptacle wants to turn/rotate. This really effed up my hunting trip last weekend. I had to spend time, after realizing the wire that connected to the damn receptacle had come loose from all the rotating bs with this design. I was able to adhoc another connnection to keep my fridge powered but now am faced with removing my AO drawers to get access to the back of the cruiser panel to get the damn receptacle replaced.

So I am now back to the point at which I started...looking for a better plug. Maybe the old standby (cigarette lighter style) is just good enough. Let cha know when I know more.

I, after last weekend, am thinking seriously about a M416 or similar style trailer...do you know of any sources for new?
 
cruiseroutfit said:
What didn't yhou like about the Marinco outlet?

I am looking into options for mine... what would you use now?

Thanks! :D
I use the marinco outlet, but not their locking plug. My outlet has the lockable feature, but I simply use the plug supplied by ARB for the fridge.

I could see the outlet wanting to spin. Mine's held on by the nut (on the back side) that they supply.

I don't think there'd be an issue if you don't use the locking plug.
 
Yo alia176,
I've had the ARB fridge for a while now it works great! Thanks for the clarification.
 
I'm interested in running a small solar panel setup similar to the ones described. Can someone post a link to the source?

I've also got a 45 Engel which I've run a dedicated 10awg wire from the primary batt to the rear of the 80. It is fused in the middle by a 2nd fuse block. A dual battery system is installed, but it would be nice to have the solar recharge option. These fridges are so darn effiecient (when run on setting 1-3). As for the outlet, I've used the Marinco ones NorCalDoug recommended. They work great and have a plastic cover that keeps stuff our of the 12v power outlet when not in use (such as a dog who would like to try and lick the live outlet :eek:

- JJ
 
So i'm interested in running a solar panel... has anyone been running one with the fridge on for any length of time? thoughts, suggestions, recommendations?
 
I should have responded to that thread as it's probably more appropriate.. I was curious if the charge interfered with the draw?? It be cool to use the combo for hunting where the truck wasn't started for 3-5+ days but yet you still had the fridge going... I would still have the option of a jump start but after 5 days i'm sure the batterys are really down...
 
well color me stupid.........it cools fine once I moved the crap off the back and sides of it so it could breath ;)

Landpimp said:
I have noticed that the new 33gt does not cool as well9I need to run it at a higher setting) as my older 45gt(or whateve it is) this might be because of running off the dome light circut.
 
Mike S said:
On my trailer, I put a trailer tongue box (Delta) on the front which holds 2 105 AH marine batteries

Nice Mike...

I am using a slick set of solar panels (40 watts total) that mount to the roof of the Eezi-Awn. When I open the tent, the provide power, when everything is closed up, the panels are protected.

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They are very rugged (designed for the military), and will even work with bullet holes in them. They can also be rolled up and used on "human" dependent expeditions...

With these, I can camp near indefinetely (if it is cool with lots of sun).
 
expeditionswest said:
Nice Mike...

I am using a slick set of solar panels (40 watts total) that mount to the roof of the Eezi-Awn. When I open the tent, the provide power, when everything is closed up, the panels are protected.

webkeyimageback.gif


They are very rugged (designed for the military), and will even work with bullet holes in them. They can also be rolled up and used on "human" dependent expeditions...

With these, I can camp near indefinetely (if it is cool with lots of sun).
Where do you get it? How much $$$?
 
They are sold by Brunton. I am using the set for performance testing for Iowa Thin Film.

The set I have will retail for about $900-$1000

I am testing the newest version, which is nearly 20watts per panel. They are light weight and very durable, which is what we need. I have two of the panels connected together, which feeds my 55ah optima aux. battery.

Another important modification is the transit bag. Some of my initial tests demonstrated a nearly 6 amp savings in a 24 hour period. That's 72 watts a day!

I also like to put two of the little blue Colman ice packs inside the fridge. It helps the fridge in the hottest part of the day.
 
expeditionswest said:
I also like to put two of the little blue Colman ice packs inside the fridge. It helps the fridge in the hottest part of the day.

How so? Do they freeze at night then gradually thaw during the day? Are they really that much help? Do you put them on top of the contents or leave them on the bottom, or .... ? Couldn't you just crank down the fridge during the day if needed?

-B-
 
I should have added more detail. Up to this point, I did not have an aux. battery. So when I was driving, I would crank the fridge way down and get things cold. The packs retain cold even better than water, so they help keep the contents cold when the fridge was off (if I didnt want to drain the battery)
 
Where did you get the ezi awn tent? Does the solar charge your main battery or a backup? Do you need special controller?
Thanks
 
cpg said:
Where did you get the ezi awn tent? Does the solar charge your main battery or a backup? Do you need special controller?
Thanks

I got the Eezi-Awn from the US distributor Pangaea Expeditions

The solar panels only charge the aux. battery.

As a general rule, a controller is not required unless the total panel wattage exceeds the AH rating of the batteries. In my case, the Optima is 55ah and the panels are 40 watts total.

I have been doing some testing with a 5.5 watt 2m radio, and I am able to transmit and charge off of one panel. That will be a great asset on the remote hiking treks.
 
Scott - So will you be installing a 12 volt charging plug for your expedition friends with a long cord :idea:

I look forward to seeing your set up at The Fall Forum Gathering :cheers:
 

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