Guys with 35-37s, WHERE do you rub?

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Ok, I realize that the guys running around with 315s and no lift claiming they don't rub are more than likely full of it.

However, my hairbrained plan for right now is to try running 35s or 36s with no lift by renewing my vows with my sawzaw Then, even if it doesn't work, I will already have the clearance for big tires

So what I need to know, is where are the critical areas in the front and rear wheel wells?

Here's what I'm thinking so far:

For the rear:

I plan to essentially clearance out as far as I can before getting to the door. This essentially should give me at least another inch of clearance all the way around. Now I *think* people are rubbing the inside vertical face of the rear wheel wells, I'm hoping to fix that through the use of spacers.

For the front:

I really have no idea where the problem areas are. My initial plan is to trim as much as possible while retaining the fender flare bolt holes (oh yeah, did I mention I'm planning to keep my flares with this plan too? ;p)

So go ahead and call me crazy, that's fine, but at least tell me where you're rubbing too. Thanks

Ary

PS Thinking about doing this next weekend

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Ary-

Be careful in trimming the rear! I went to town on it and now I can't find a good way to seal it up without buying sheetmetal... My 315s are rubbing on the inside of the fender wells in the rear and nowhere else. My front used to not rub at all, but now I'm catching the fender somewhere after I flopped it.

I don't think your crazy and I think it can be done, but I would change your focus a bit to include exchanging uptravel for down travel. You will have to adjust where your shocks sit and play with bumpstops and such, but you will end up with a better behaved 80! Good luck!

 

[SR.GRINGO]

I run something like a J spring lift. Up front there are dual batteries, York, Arb. Sometimes I rub up front when wheeling, or if I hit a dip/bump while flying on a dirt road. I have slee's drop blocks on the rear. My longterm solution is to fork out for slee's 6" but if you can make a sawzall work I would take that into consideration.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Ary-

Be careful in trimming the rear! I went to town on it and now I can't find a good way to seal it up without buying sheetmetal...

Oh I have a full sheet of sheetmetal and plan to use a bit of it for this

BTW, I'm not planning on messing with the bumpstops. I want the suspension to function as stock, I just want bigger tires for diff clearance.

 

[NorCalSam]

I am running 315 Toyo MTs with a FOR 3.5" kit.
I have know rubing in the front even at high speed.
In the back I get just a little rub at full flex on the frame.

I think you need a 2" lift and you must space down the system. I don't see how you can cut much on a 80 without making holes to the inside.

Good luck

 

[IBCRUSN]

2.5" OME HD w/ 1" up front, 1" body lift (essentially a J lift) and 36" TSXs. The only rubbing I have is the rear wheel well inner panel. If I ever get around to it I'll try a set of 1" wheel spacers and it should remedy the any rubbing. Either way nothing rubs at any speed other than a crawl with full stuff.

 

[concretejungle]

ditto on the inner wheel well in the rear and no where else.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

*snip*
I think you need a 2" lift and you must space down the system. I don't see how you can cut much on a 80 without making holes to the inside.
*snip*

I agree 100%. Eventually, I will be rockin J springs and (hopefully) 39.5s, but to do so, I need to weld the rear doors shut or truggy it... You will be better off adjusting the shock mounting points for more drop.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Ok, maybe you guys didn't quite understand how much I was planning on cutting. Have you seen Kirk's truck/fender trimming? I was thinking something along those lines... I fully intended to open up the fenders to the inside and then fit new sheetmetal to fill the holes.

 

[Darwood]

Ok, maybe you guys didn't quite understand how much I was planning on cutting. Have you seen Kirk's truck/fender trimming? I was thinking something along those lines... I fully intended to open up the fenders to the inside and then fit new sheetmetal to fill the holes.

Is there a particular reason you want to run 35's with no lift? I would personally go with a bigger tire if I wanted to off road with no lift since you'll still have little ground clearance with only 35's. I predict a lot of dragging on your belly. You might want to consider skid plating the entire underside.

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Well 35s are the minimum. I will test fit my 38s and my friends 36s and see where the limit is.

Custom crossmember and skidplate is next on the list.

 

[GreatLakesWaterjet]

Ok, my turn. I don't rub yet. 37's and 2.5" lift with 1" spacers on the front. If you are willing to trim enough for 37's with no lift- go for it! I love the LCG and big tires! I still need to trim the rear. Look at the artic trucks. They cut a lot and run 44's. I think the onlt problem you will have is finding the correct backspace for the wheels to make the tires go in the fenders without rubbing. Now get to cutting and post some pics!

 

[MaddBaggins]

I only rub on the inside of the tires. No binding, just some rubbing on the inside of the rear wheel wells and a slight rub on the spring seat in the front wheel well. Still got all my sheet metal, No trimming necessary

 

[Dusty]

37 swampers on 4" lift
mine rub rear of front wells
and in the rear. makes lots of noise when rubbibg but the flares have not been torn off yet.

 

[GXO]

4" slees with 37x12.50 Iroks, stock wheels, no spacers. I rub inside of rear, on my front Slee radius arms in hard lock...that's it!

 

[Land Speeder]

Guys with 35-37s, WHERE do you rub?

in the upper thigh area, especially on long jogs.



When I had mudflaps, I would hit there with 35's, took them off and was OK. Outside of that, bumpstops should fix anything else.

 

[MARLIN375]

I only had to trim my mud flaps on the rear to stuff my 34.61456 MTZs

-they touch the top of the fender well at the same time I am on the bump stop (the best I can tell) I can't hear them rubbing but there is some undercoat missing.

-I have the rear sway bar

I think if I take off the sway bar or lift more than 3" I will get rub on the inside with articulation/twist, and with a true 35 I would have to trim more or remove the flaps.

never rubbed up front.........yet.

 

[gotmud]

Ok, I realize that the guys running around with 315s and no lift claiming they don't rub are more than likely full of it.

However, my hairbrained plan for right now is to try running 35s or 36s with no lift by renewing my vows with my sawzaw Then, even if it doesn't work, I will already have the clearance for big tires

So what I need to know, is where are the critical areas in the front and rear wheel wells?

Here's what I'm thinking so far:

For the rear:

I plan to essentially clearance out as far as I can before getting to the door. This essentially should give me at least another inch of clearance all the way around. Now I *think* people are rubbing the inside vertical face of the rear wheel wells, I'm hoping to fix that through the use of spacers.

For the front:

I really have no idea where the problem areas are. My initial plan is to trim as much as possible while retaining the fender flare bolt holes (oh yeah, did I mention I'm planning to keep my flares with this plan too? ;p)

So go ahead and call me crazy, that's fine, but at least tell me where you're rubbing too. Thanks

Ary

PS Thinking about doing this next weekend

Ary,

Too bad you're 3000 miles away. I plan to do the same thing. I've always preferred the low and lean look vs lifting if I can help it. I too plan to run 35's and want to use as little lift as possible, mainly due to the center of gravity.

Once you're done, you'll have to post some pictures for the rest of us to enjoy. Good luck

 

[cruiser80]

ok so i have to ask. why not a lift? do you do any hard wheeling? i understand getting higher diff clearance but what about the rest of the truck? i definatley want to see pics of this! good luck!

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

they will just touch everywhere, you will need bodylift, bumpstop spacers, or cut out lots, but still keep flares?

This is all possible.

If I were doing one, I would go 10mm body lift [not noticable, but adds room to top of fenders]

And I would add 75/8 series bumpstops to front, which look factory but are 25mm longer and I would machine the front arms and put one half of castor correction bushes to the back of the front arms to move the diff forward, will also need a spacer for width to fit.

This will stop the rubbing on the back of the front fenders, and I would then get a big dead blow hammer, and gently make more room around the fender inners, and this will be enough for what you want.