Hiluxforever
SILVER Star
That's a low bar. Lived in Texas in 3 stints, in Houston, Austin and San Antonio.
Builds Grizzly Clint's 2010 GX460 build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter MrTorgue
- Start date
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I lived in Austin while going to UT. Austin was great, but coming from the Ozarks I felt the amount of public land and outdoor opportunities were sorely lacking (perhaps outside of Big Bend which was 8 hours away - and some smaller state parks/conservation areas around Austin). I do, however, certainly miss the food, culture, winter weather, and other forms of scenery that Texas has in spades.
When I left it felt liberating as soon as I crossed into Arkansas at Texarkana. Now that I've been back in the Ozarks for over a decade, I'm never leaving!
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MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
- Thread starter
- #724
Decided to add my ditch lights. I still need to adjust the vertical angle and my dumbass used red loctite thinking i had the right angle. 
On the brightside my switch placement works as I had hoped. I've been using it for my light bar for awhile now. My next project are my red & white flashers when I'm on scene and amber flashers for general use. That'll be the purpose of the 3 position rocker switch on the left.
Those wires tucked in nicely in a flap of carpet directly under the seat.
On the brightside my switch placement works as I had hoped. I've been using it for my light bar for awhile now. My next project are my red & white flashers when I'm on scene and amber flashers for general use. That'll be the purpose of the 3 position rocker switch on the left. Those wires tucked in nicely in a flap of carpet directly under the seat.
r2m
Richard
Never thought about putting switches there.Decided to add my ditch lights. I still need to adjust the vertical angle and my dumbass used red loctite thinking i had the right angle.
Those wires tucked in nicely in a flap of carpet directly under the seat.
View attachment 3901470
View attachment 3901471
Any issues with moving the seat forward/rearward? Considering I'm 6'-0" and my wife, 5'1", the seat is all the way back for me and is moved quite a bit forward for her. I'd have to have a considerable lag loop of wire to accommodate that range of movement.
MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
- Thread starter
- #726
I wanted a solution that didn't involve dash modifications AND that I had easy access with plenty of space and a quick spot to turn off the lights when a vehicle is coming. It is pretty easy to unbolt the seat. As a bonus it was a straight shot from tne firewall grommet to the seat under the carpet. I tried those aftermarket "Toyota" Chinesium switches in the blank spots but for some odd reason I couldn't get them to work. Plus I didn't want to overload behind the dash with wires.
No issues with moving the seat. If you leave a little slack there's no issues. The key is to properly zip-tie the wires to keep them clean and tout. I'm 6' and my wife is 5'5". I do recommend low profile quick connects to ensure room if you've got switches side-by-side.
MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
- Thread starter
- #728
Light bar and Ditch lights:
Low beams: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F12JJMHB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
High Beams:
*same as my original post very early in the thread.
"Fog" lights
www.rigidlightshop.com
Light bar:
Ditch lights:
Low beams: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0F12JJMHB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
High Beams:
*same as my original post very early in the thread.
"Fog" lights
Rigid Industries Diffused Flush Mount Black D-Series Pro - Pair
Rigid Industries Diffused Flush Mount Black D-Series Pro - Pair
www.rigidlightshop.com
Light bar:
Ditch lights:
Nice comparison shots. I didn't notice the deer until you turned the ditch lights on.
r2m
Richard
The light bar doesn't increase the throw range, but really gives a much larger peripheral lit area.Nice little Easter egg eh?
The ditch lights look like they throw way out there AND increase peripheral view.
My biggest concern is that my headlights/accessory lights have enough range so I don't "out run" them when I'm driving.
I've had vehicles when doing 65 MPH or so on an empty road at night with no moon, and have had to slow down because I'm coming up on things faster than I can see them with the headlights.
MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
- Thread starter
- #732
I'll post up a picture of the light bar hitting an object at distance at night. How far would you like me to test? The speed limit for the highways here are 55 and 60 and I don't have any issues outrunning the light. It does throw out a decent spot beam considering the price point and the body/heat dissipators are metal and not plastic so that's a plus. FYI the center of the bar is a spot light and the sides are flood lights.
MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
- Thread starter
- #733
Redneck science for the win. 200lb zipties and a hole drilled solved my drooping headlight. Not gonna waste money buying a new headlight only for them to yellow again OR break this brittle mounting tab. I have other plans to redneck science a solution that'll be realized this year. I hate polycarbonate headlight lenses.
r2m
Richard
One only needs to the lights to throw out as far as one needs for their speed, whether it's 30 MPH, or 60 MPH. So long as you can see what you're coming up on with your lights before you reach that point. If you speed limits or safe speed is only 50 - 60 MPH, I'd think that lights that throw out a 1,000 feet are a waste.
MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
r2m
Richard
THAT's what I'm talking about!!!It does do that yes. It isn't a 1,000ft kind of light bar, but I suppose it throws a solid maybe ~500ft? It is just enough to see a moose, elk, or bear in the road to stop in enough time and to light up the trails like daylight.
MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
MrTorgue
Grizzly Clint
- Thread starter
- #738
Oh, and here are the ditch light brackets in case anyone wondered what I used. The pro is cost and the fact that it works. The cons are that the finish isn't that good and is already starting to show surface rust and I had to raise the forward hood rubber stoppers to stop the hood from flopping around (not that big of a deal). I strongly recommend if you get these to coat them with truck bed liner or something to prevent the corrosion.
