Builds Grizzly Clint's 2010 GX460 build (1 Viewer)

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My FIL owned his own electrical contracting business. With a meter and 2 pair of Klein Needle Nose Pliers with built in strippers and crimper he could do 90% of the work. But also had a van full of tools and a huge building at the house full.

Finally got around to doing some wiring maintenance. Needed to take the 3rd row out and rear panels off along with the 2nd and 1st row door sills, console, and etc. Oh man is it dirty back there in the back. Ran out of time so I couldn't do the sound deadening so that'll wait for later once my retainer clip replacements arrive. Put the panels and stuff on but not everything.

Just look at the 2/3 row HVAC behind that rear passenger panel. That thing is ginormous and there is no way to get the seatbelt out on that side without removing it. So it'll stay for now.

View attachment 3631237

Yeah in Jakes video when he got to the rear AC he called it something like a cross between a Borg ship and oil refinery, or words to that effect. I already have the color matching seat belt garnish replacement that doesn't have the slot in it for both sides. Planning on removing as much of the belt as I can then cutting that bitch. In theory the tensioner should pull the slack in as long as I pull it out as far as I can first. In theory...

My first Polaris Ranger Northstar was loud in the cab had to yell to talk to a passenger. Did a lot of research on sound mitigation and was able to cut it in half to where you could carry on a conversation in a normal voice.

Many here and elsewhere put down sound deadening material thinking it is sound proofing. It is not, it is only to help prevent the metal (or plastic) from vibrating. And it doesn't take much that is why the factory only puts down a little between the seat braces. To prevent the metal from vibrating and transmitting sound it is not sound blocking. For damping/deadening material I used second skin and from their website:

Sound Deadening Mat: You must cover at least 25% of the surface to deaden the metal. Our testing shows that 60% coverage gets you to about 95% of max results for your typical vehicle.

Of course like most people I put down close to 90% LOL and likely will in the GX. More is more gooder right?!

To sound proof there are several options but basically you need mass. You are losing a lot of mass by removing the seats. Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) is the most common but it needs to be suspended in foam or in walls hanging loose. 1 pound sq. foot is the most common 2 pound sq. foot is of course better. It usually runs ~$10 sq. foot from most automotive supply places for the good stuff at 1 lb. sq. ft.

Farmers driving tractors and heavy equipment operators don't want to listen to machinery noise all day either. Enter Tractor Interior Upholstery in Iowa. MLV runs ~$4 sq. ft. for 1/2" and you can get the MLV with a vinyl facing installed. I have a bunch left over from the buggy project, well enough to throw under the platform. And flooring material that I will put on top of the platform between the L tracks. And it is MLV as well so I will have 3 pound MLV sq. ft. when all is said and done.

Last night ordered $500 worth of various fluids so will be busy doing fluid exchanges for awhile. Plus tranny cooler install. So my 3rd row seat rip out and platform build is going to be more of a summer project at this rate.

Yours is looking good, you're doing it right IMO.
 
Pulling those rear panels, cleaning and then sound mat is on my short list of to do’s.
How hard are they to pull?
When I get home I'll write up something for you.
 
53721929339_04179463cc_b.jpg


My FIL owned his own electrical contracting business. With a meter and 2 pair of Klein Needle Nose Pliers with built in strippers and crimper he could do 90% of the work. But also had a van full of tools and a huge building at the house full.



Yeah in Jakes video when he got to the rear AC he called it something like a cross between a Borg ship and oil refinery, or words to that effect. I already have the color matching seat belt garnish replacement that doesn't have the slot in it for both sides. Planning on removing as much of the belt as I can then cutting that bitch. In theory the tensioner should pull the slack in as long as I pull it out as far as I can first. In theory...

My first Polaris Ranger Northstar was loud in the cab had to yell to talk to a passenger. Did a lot of research on sound mitigation and was able to cut it in half to where you could carry on a conversation in a normal voice.

Many here and elsewhere put down sound deadening material thinking it is sound proofing. It is not, it is only to help prevent the metal (or plastic) from vibrating. And it doesn't take much that is why the factory only puts down a little between the seat braces. To prevent the metal from vibrating and transmitting sound it is not sound blocking. For damping/deadening material I used second skin and from their website:

Sound Deadening Mat: You must cover at least 25% of the surface to deaden the metal. Our testing shows that 60% coverage gets you to about 95% of max results for your typical vehicle.

Of course like most people I put down close to 90% LOL and likely will in the GX. More is more gooder right?!

To sound proof there are several options but basically you need mass. You are losing a lot of mass by removing the seats. Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) is the most common but it needs to be suspended in foam or in walls hanging loose. 1 pound sq. foot is the most common 2 pound sq. foot is of course better. It usually runs ~$10 sq. foot from most automotive supply places for the good stuff at 1 lb. sq. ft.

Farmers driving tractors and heavy equipment operators don't want to listen to machinery noise all day either. Enter Tractor Interior Upholstery in Iowa. MLV runs ~$4 sq. ft. for 1/2" and you can get the MLV with a vinyl facing installed. I have a bunch left over from the buggy project, well enough to throw under the platform. And flooring material that I will put on top of the platform between the L tracks. And it is MLV as well so I will have 3 pound MLV sq. ft. when all is said and done.

Last night ordered $500 worth of various fluids so will be busy doing fluid exchanges for awhile. Plus tranny cooler install. So my 3rd row seat rip out and platform build is going to be more of a summer project at this rate.

Yours is looking good, you're doing it right IMO.
Jealousy! Too bad you're not close by and we could do some wrenching on our rigs. I could learn some good stuff.
 
53721929339_04179463cc_b.jpg


My FIL owned his own electrical contracting business. With a meter and 2 pair of Klein Needle Nose Pliers with built in strippers and crimper he could do 90% of the work. But also had a van full of tools and a huge building at the house full.



Yeah in Jakes video when he got to the rear AC he called it something like a cross between a Borg ship and oil refinery, or words to that effect. I already have the color matching seat belt garnish replacement that doesn't have the slot in it for both sides. Planning on removing as much of the belt as I can then cutting that bitch. In theory the tensioner should pull the slack in as long as I pull it out as far as I can first. In theory...

My first Polaris Ranger Northstar was loud in the cab had to yell to talk to a passenger. Did a lot of research on sound mitigation and was able to cut it in half to where you could carry on a conversation in a normal voice.

Many here and elsewhere put down sound deadening material thinking it is sound proofing. It is not, it is only to help prevent the metal (or plastic) from vibrating. And it doesn't take much that is why the factory only puts down a little between the seat braces. To prevent the metal from vibrating and transmitting sound it is not sound blocking. For damping/deadening material I used second skin and from their website:

Sound Deadening Mat: You must cover at least 25% of the surface to deaden the metal. Our testing shows that 60% coverage gets you to about 95% of max results for your typical vehicle.

Of course like most people I put down close to 90% LOL and likely will in the GX. More is more gooder right?!

To sound proof there are several options but basically you need mass. You are losing a lot of mass by removing the seats. Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) is the most common but it needs to be suspended in foam or in walls hanging loose. 1 pound sq. foot is the most common 2 pound sq. foot is of course better. It usually runs ~$10 sq. foot from most automotive supply places for the good stuff at 1 lb. sq. ft.

Farmers driving tractors and heavy equipment operators don't want to listen to machinery noise all day either. Enter Tractor Interior Upholstery in Iowa. MLV runs ~$4 sq. ft. for 1/2" and you can get the MLV with a vinyl facing installed. I have a bunch left over from the buggy project, well enough to throw under the platform. And flooring material that I will put on top of the platform between the L tracks. And it is MLV as well so I will have 3 pound MLV sq. ft. when all is said and done.

Last night ordered $500 worth of various fluids so will be busy doing fluid exchanges for awhile. Plus tranny cooler install. So my 3rd row seat rip out and platform build is going to be more of a summer project at this rate.

Yours is looking good, you're doing it right IMO.
I did mine over a year ago and I basically tapped every piece of metal and if it "rung" in that way that adding material would make it stop, It got some. Definitely get some in the rear wheel wells, there is a TON of space in there.

I just used a $30 box of silass amazon cheap stuff that smelled pretty noxious the first few days.

I also have a couple of cheap dog beds and a cheap throw blanket over my Plywood tire cubby. The dogs love it. My tire and recovery gear are always accessible.
 
Those would be a good edition to the wiki
 
We have a wiki? I feel ashamed that I haven't seen it. LOL
The list of parts and pieces...
Pieces is pieces and parts are Parts.

Lol
 
Some time ago I purchased a bunch of mixed body tabs from Amazon. They come in handy when needing to pull an interior panel and a tab breaks.
 
Ok folks it's getting about that time, my Nitto Ridge Grapplers have nearly 52,000 miles on them and they are pretty bald now.

While I want another set I also am open to other options. Things that I liked about these other than the brand were how quiet they were and their offroad and on-road performance. It'll cost me ~$1,100 for another set of four Ridge Grapplers, any other all-terrains with similar performance and low noise for about the same $$? Living in the PNW now there's a lot of loose sandy roads, wet grass, and mud for large portions of the year so I'll need a good set of tires for these conditions--which the Nittos had.
 
Try the new toyo rt trails. Heard great things. I’m about to get them in 37x12.50r18 for my new set of wheels.
Very similar tire from the same overall company. The Nittos are slightly heavier and I've read that those Toyos can be a balancing nightmare. But that's all internet anecdotes. It's hard to part with my Nittos, they were so quiet before I started to get bald.
 
I’m a HUGE fan of Mickey Thompsons, very aggressive yet a 50,000k mile tire. I like the legend exp it’s an hybrid AT/MT only issue is they do get louder after about 25k.
What's the noise level like compared to the Ridge Grapplers? What model of the MT's do you recommend I look in to?
 
What's the noise level like compared to the Ridge Grapplers? What model of the MT's do you recommend I look in to?
Never had any nittos, but from 0-25,000 miles the legends are great. TBH I try and sell after about 50% life, can still get good money for them and that’s when they get loud.. er. In terms of overall level, gonna be slightly louder than a regular AT but quieter than a true mud tire. The tread blocks are nice and wide to eject mud from what I’ve found, better than my current KO2s. But I’m not a fan of these in any way besides the price I got them for used. I’m biding my time until I can pick up a set of these:
 
Never had any nittos, but from 0-25,000 miles the legends are great. TBH I try and sell after about 50% life, can still get good money for them and that’s when they get loud.. er. In terms of overall level, gonna be slightly louder than a regular AT but quieter than a true mud tire. The tread blocks are nice and wide to eject mud from what I’ve found, better than my current KO2s. But I’m not a fan of these in any way besides the price I got them for used. I’m biding my time until I can pick up a set of these:
Thanks for the info!
 
Ok folks it's getting about that time, my Nitto Ridge Grapplers have nearly 52,000 miles on them and they are pretty bald now.

While I want another set I also am open to other options. Things that I liked about these other than the brand were how quiet they were and their offroad and on-road performance. It'll cost me ~$1,100 for another set of four Ridge Grapplers, any other all-terrains with similar performance and low noise for about the same $$? Living in the PNW now there's a lot of loose sandy roads, wet grass, and mud for large portions of the year so I'll need a good set of tires for these conditions--which the Nittos had.
Boy, you opened up a can of worms with that post!
You know what I'll say...
BFG! All Terrains KO3's. Probably the best all around grip, e.g.: snow, wet, ice, rock, dirt, mud. Oh, and they work great on pavement too!
Very quiet. 👍
You may bust that $1,100 budget.
 
Boy, you opened up a can of worms with that post!
You know what I'll say...
BFG! All Terrains KO3's. Probably the best all around grip, e.g.: snow, wet, ice, rock, dirt, mud. Oh, and they work great on pavement too!
Very quiet. 👍
You may bust that $1,100 budget.
Gotta stay close to that budget. LOL
 
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