
My FIL owned his own electrical contracting business. With a meter and 2 pair of Klein Needle Nose Pliers with built in strippers and crimper he could do 90% of the work. But also had a van full of tools and a huge building at the house full.
Finally got around to doing some wiring maintenance. Needed to take the 3rd row out and rear panels off along with the 2nd and 1st row door sills, console, and etc. Oh man is it dirty back there in the back. Ran out of time so I couldn't do the sound deadening so that'll wait for later once my retainer clip replacements arrive. Put the panels and stuff on but not everything.
Just look at the 2/3 row HVAC behind that rear passenger panel. That thing is ginormous and there is no way to get the seatbelt out on that side without removing it. So it'll stay for now.
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Yeah in Jakes video when he got to the rear AC he called it something like a cross between a Borg ship and oil refinery, or words to that effect. I already have the color matching seat belt garnish replacement that doesn't have the slot in it for both sides. Planning on removing as much of the belt as I can then cutting that bitch. In theory the tensioner should pull the slack in as long as I pull it out as far as I can first. In theory...
My first Polaris Ranger Northstar was loud in the cab had to yell to talk to a passenger. Did a lot of research on sound mitigation and was able to cut it in half to where you could carry on a conversation in a normal voice.
Many here and elsewhere put down sound deadening material thinking it is sound proofing. It is not, it is only to help prevent the metal (or plastic) from vibrating. And it doesn't take much that is why the factory only puts down a little between the seat braces. To prevent the metal from vibrating and transmitting sound it is not sound blocking. For damping/deadening material I used second skin and from their website:
Sound Deadening Mat: You must cover at least 25% of the surface to deaden the metal. Our testing shows that 60% coverage gets you to about 95% of max results for your typical vehicle.
Of course like most people I put down close to 90% LOL and likely will in the GX. More is more gooder right?!
To sound proof there are several options but basically you need mass. You are losing a lot of mass by removing the seats. Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) is the most common but it needs to be suspended in foam or in walls hanging loose. 1 pound sq. foot is the most common 2 pound sq. foot is of course better. It usually runs ~$10 sq. foot from most automotive supply places for the good stuff at 1 lb. sq. ft.
Farmers driving tractors and heavy equipment operators don't want to listen to machinery noise all day either. Enter Tractor Interior Upholstery in Iowa. MLV runs ~$4 sq. ft. for 1/2" and you can get the MLV with a vinyl facing installed. I have a bunch left over from the buggy project, well enough to throw under the platform. And flooring material that I will put on top of the platform between the L tracks. And it is MLV as well so I will have 3 pound MLV sq. ft. when all is said and done.
Last night ordered $500 worth of various fluids so will be busy doing fluid exchanges for awhile. Plus tranny cooler install. So my 3rd row seat rip out and platform build is going to be more of a summer project at this rate.
Yours is looking good, you're doing it right IMO.