Builds Grizzly Clint's 2010 GX460 build (1 Viewer)

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Upgraded backup lights installed. The casualty is that passenger side outboard parking sensor. I keep those off anyway so no biggie.

The part that's annoying is the angle they point is down and to the side so I'll have to change over to diffused flood since these are spot pattern.

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Upgraded backup lights installed. The casualty is that passenger side outboard parking sensor. I keep those off anyway so no biggie.

The part that's annoying is the angle they point is down and to the side so I'll have to change over to diffused flood since there's are spot pattern.

View attachment 3627095
Diffused flood would be a great pattern to light up everything along the side, rear and the very rear.
 
Diffused flood would be a great pattern to light up everything along the side, rear and the very rear.
My front fogs are diffused flood. They work great immediately around the vehicle.
 
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I'm cleaning up my wiring, installing a new dash cam/rear camera and and etc but while taking off the upper rear trim panel I broke one of these...I've never seen this retaining clip anywhere. Each panel has two of them. I spent a half hour scouring the internet and parts catalogs with no luck.

Paging @Acrad

Let me know if you need a better image.
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On another note removing the passenger 3rd row seatbelt requires removing the rear HVAC unit so...yea I don't know about that...
 
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Finally got around to doing some wiring maintenance. Needed to take the 3rd row out and rear panels off along with the 2nd and 1st row door sills, console, and etc. Oh man is it dirty back there in the back. Ran out of time so I couldn't do the sound deadening so that'll wait for later once my retainer clip replacements arrive. Put the panels and stuff on but not everything.

Just look at the 2/3 row HVAC behind that rear passenger panel. That thing is ginormous and there is no way to get the seatbelt out on that side without removing it. So it'll stay for now.

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Oh and I also installed USB A+C ports right behind the 2nd row so my daughter can charge her electronics while in her car seat. Then I'll redneck science a light with a switch for her, probably near the grab handle.

You should see all the damn wires I was able to shorten and clean up.

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Yep, just have to be careful and use the right tools. A good set of Klein tools will last a shade tree mechanic a lifetime.

I spent 9 years working in the IBEW and have kept my card up since leaving the trades in 2020
 
I don't mind it. It's just tedious.
I've learned to solder and shrink tube all connections.
If I can't solder (no space) use a quality crimp joiner, and crimp the heck out of it, and again insulate!
 
I've learned to solder and shrink tube all connections.
If I can't solder (no space) use a quality crimp joiner, and crimp the heck out of it, and again insulate!
I'm shrink tube wrapping, taping, and zip tying. For interior work that'll suffice for now.

Yep, just have to be careful and use the right tools. A good set of Klein tools will last a shade tree mechanic a lifetime.

I spent 9 years working in the IBEW and have kept my card up since leaving the trades in 2020

I agree! I really need to get a good set of Klein tools...
 
I should also mention that I try to always oversize my wire, especially on long runs.
 
I should also mention that I try to always oversize my wire, especially on long runs.
100% agree. So far the longest wire I have is from the front console cubby to the back panel for a USB port. So not a lot of power needed. If I was running wires for a compressor or other large power draw I'd go overboard on wire gauge. LOL
 
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Pulling those rear panels, cleaning and then sound mat is on my short list of to do’s.
How hard are they to pull?
I used a set of harbor freight trim pry bars when I added sound deadening and only broke 3 clips out of how many... definitely worth doing if you do a 3rd row delete, to gain back some deadening you lose.
 

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