Greenbean and his mod/wish it was a build thread...

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These are going to help a TON!

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Decided to try out Mothers lens kit... Wow I am impressed for under 28 bucks.
Headed out soon to do the drivers side.

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So I am wanting to work the paint over myself, I have used an orbital many times in the past with a cleaner and then polish but I want to get one of these from HF and some of the pads and some Meguiar's products. The truck hasn't been detailed in forever but being white it hides stuff well and being well driven it's not needing to be in Concourse Condition, lol...
What product number do I need? I was thinking the 105 and 205. but could be wrong. I am trying to avoid going all over the place for stuff. I can also finish up with their Gold Class Wax on my larger orbital when finished with the DA polisher.
And lastly is P21 wheel gel as good as I think it might be?

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Good news is Toyota uses single stage for the plain white paint and its easy to shine the paint up! Chalky-ness should come right off with even a light polish. Applying a good layer of the Megs glaze and letting it sit before wiping it off will give the paint some of its lost moisture..
 
Malkoff dome light? Is that the same person who does the Surefire and Maglite drop-ins?

If it is, it must be insanely bright. Please post pics, that is interesting lol.


That is he!

I'm a flashlight guy and have one of his Mag-Charger XM-L2 units in my work light and many other products from him.

I'll try and get a pic tonight.

I put his dome in the forward light and I have a cheap 24 SMD in the rear dome. I honestly don't know which is brighter but Genes stuff is awesome. It's a single CREE unit versus other lower quality LEDs.

I have a cheap red LED in my map light and a warm LED for my wife.
 
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Good news is Toyota uses single stage for the plain white paint and its easy to shine the paint up! Chalky-ness should come right off with even a light polish. Applying a good layer of the Megs glaze and letting it sit before wiping it off will give the paint some of its lost moisture..

I hope so,

I'm waiting until some warmer weather before I dive into exterior clean up and that whole ball of wax.

I'm still hunting items on Amazon in the way of an orbital, not sure if I could get away with using the Harbor Freight unit but also I check Craigslist and always keep an eye out for a good cheap one to start with as it'll be my first DA unit.

Good news is it's going to be a couple months before it really gets warm enough for the majority of the day for me to warrant cleaning up the paint.
 
I hope so,

I'm waiting until some warmer weather before I dive into exterior clean up and that whole ball of wax.

I'm still hunting items on Amazon in the way of an orbital, not sure if I could get away with using the Harbor Freight unit but also I check Craigslist and always keep an eye out for a good cheap one to start with as it'll be my first DA unit.

Good news is it's going to be a couple months before it really gets warm enough for the majority of the day for me to warrant cleaning up the paint.

I have a Porter Cable and love it. If I were to get into major defect removal beyond what the PC could handle, i would need to step up my skill level and probably go with a Flex. Spend some time on the Autogeek forums and get the right pads. ( i use lake country) I'm not a professional detailer but have my own OCD problem..lol.
 
AutoZone has the Griot's Garage GG-6 DA buffer as well. Same price as on the Griot's Garage or Autogeek website.

I have Porter Cable that I need to become more familiar with. If you go with the PC, get a 5" backing plate and some 5.5" thin pads. That will help minimize the bogging down and loss of pad rotation. Here's another little tip you may or may not know... You can buy Meguiar's Ultimate products at Wal-Mart considerably cheaper than at Advance or AutoZone. The Meguiar's Ultimate Compound will do pretty much any correcting you will need.
 
@lugueto Here you go,

The light behind me is my motion light on the corner of the house, also I have no window tint but what was already present from the factory.

In the last pic the light above the roof is a neighbors porch light way off in the distance.

I like it the way it is as the 24-SMD unit is brighter but it only comes on in the cargo area.

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So today since it reached almost 70' in WNC I declared it Sway Bar Day!

All the rubber bits showed up overnight so I picked them up from my dealer and decided to go at it.

My truck has pretty much zero rust! Except it seems on one bolt of the two holding the right front sway bracket to the frame, it seems the engineers did FAIL in one area. The drain drops condensate on those threads. Man oh man after three PB Blaster applications it was still a bear to remove but I did get it out. A pic of the bolt is shown below.

So if your wanting to replace all the front and rear rubber bits see the attached pictures with the part numbers, however there is one error and that is on the four bolts that hold the front sway brackets to the frame. I looked them up and e parts man verified the number but it's definarely not the correct bolt. Odd looking and to long to even get started on the bolt that goes up from underneath right above the TB. So I reused thre and had an extra as my fourth in the shed.

It really makes a huge difference in feel and the rocking side to side I had before. The shocks were replaced with OEM Toyota at 423,096 so I knew they were not the issue.

I found with the rig on jackstands front and rear it was pretty easy. Now without air tools and me on a creeper by myself I completed it in @4-hours. Could have been slightly quicker but that one bolt with the rust was tough. And those two bolts are so close to the TB you can only get a wrench in them so I am thankful I had GearWrenches.

Guess I'm going to see if making an extension to the AC drain is doable, although I don't see myself ever going back in there anytime soon, hahaha.

I also included some comparison photos of the old versus the new.


Front part numbers.

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Rear part numbers.

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Rear items.
I do want to add if your rig has surface rust and such I would also recommend the inner sleeve as well. One of mine was a little stuck and took come coaxing out wth a BFM and a large socket over the nut installed back onto the other end.

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Front items.

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These are the bolts that were supposed to be relaced per the FSM but there has got to be something up with the part numbers.

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The correct part number is 90119-08B50. A lot of databases have that wrong and read that letter B as another 8 when it isn't. The bolts you got are alternator bolts used in a lot of Toyota sedans (Camry, Avalon, etc...)
 
Thanks @TheForger I am going to see if they will let me swap them for a credit as I have other parts coming in.

I knew something was up,

I may have them order the correct ones and I'll switch them out as well.
 
Just to give my input on the DA polisher decision. I'd get a Griot's 6" before the porter cable every day of the week. It has a more powerful motor as well as a lifetime warranty which can't be beat! My GG6 died on my after a few years suddenly and I called and the newer revised version was sent to me free of charge!

I use a flex 3401 for most of my detailing work now but the GG6 is a great buffer to start with!
 
@Greenbean Don't feel too bad I did the exact same thing but was too lazy to even send them back so I'm just hanging on to them:) I have seen a lot of other people make that same mistake on this forum as well. Unfortunately, no one will update their database to correct this issue so I'm sure it'll continue to happen to other folks if they don't do a little more research first. Glad you got it all worked out though! When I replaced all of my links and bushings it was a night-and-day difference in ride quality.
 
Swaweet!!!!

So you got it?


Welcome to the Hundy Club!!!
 

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