Got Slow Windows? Here's the Fix. (1 Viewer)

[SteveJackson]

Slow 80 windows are a function of one or a combination of three factors.

Weak window motors, replace with new.

Grimed up regulators, clean and regrease.

Stiff window channels, replace with new.

Do all three and you’ll be golden.

In my 24v hj61, I used 12v 80 series motors and they’re still working a few years later, they just run twice as fast and watch your fingers lol!

 

[bwiygul]

Slow 80 windows are a function of one or a combination of three factors.

Weak window motors, replace with new.

Grimed up regulators, clean and regrease.

Stiff window channels, replace with new.

Do all three and you’ll be golden.

In my 24v hj61, I used 12v 80 series motors and they’re still working a few years later, they just run twice as fast and watch your fingers lol!

I’m kind of wondering the same thing. Next spring I may dabble with swapping the wire to a better wire. It seems like you could step up the voltage relatively easily for just the windows and get em moving. But I’m going to also clean em up and do the rebuild/clean/swap the Guides.

 

[baggar11]

I finally got tired of having window issues during the cold months and got around to whipping my front windows into shape. Rear windows coming shortly.

A couple years ago I installed new window runs and lubed them with white lithium grease. Still on the stock window motor, they still didn't really perform all that well. Using white lithium grease was probably not the best choice. It was pretty messy from the get go. So here's what I tackled to restore their function in cold climates...

1. Removed window runs, cleaned with paint thinner(to remove lithium grease) and lubricated with 3m dry silicone spray.
2. Replaced toyota window motor with dorman units off Amazon.
3. Super cleaned the outside and inside window felts that the window slides on. These things were really dirty.
4. Opened up the driver side switch and cleaned out the contacts. Ended up fubar'ing the little spring and lost the window lock function. Oh well.

Front windows work great now. This video shows the auto up in 27F on a cold snow camping trip I was on this past weekend.



Question: Is it also advisable to clean the other window switch contacts? Are they even serviceable for cleaning? I haven't been able to find much in that regard via search.

 

[BILT4ME]

Just to bump this one to the top:

I did my driver's window this weekend.
Installed new window run channel
Installed new Belt moulding inside and outside
Removed entire regulator and cleaned with brake cleaner, re-lubed with white lithium grease
Disassembled motor and cleaned commutator
Cleaned motor gears and used new white lithium grease
I wish I had new brushes for the motor and I would have installed them. The brushes here are probably only 30% remaining. If I would have had time and done another window first, I may have swapped the motor from the LR to the LF since the LR gets a LOT less use. Assuming, of course, that the actual motor part is the same.

Window is MUCH quieter now, approx 4 seconds to roll down, 5 seconds to roll up.

Definitely reduced the wind noise.

All this took me about 7-8 hours on the one door.
1-1/2 hours for the inner and outer belt moulding (and installing new screws and washers on the door card)
1 hour for disassembling the entire door and plastic
2 hours for cleaning the door mechanism and re-greasing
2 hours for disassembling, cleaning, lubricating, and reassembling the window motor (there was a lot of assembly and reassembly, as I had thing turned the wrong way, kept getting grease smeared all over inside the motor housing, and got it all together, only to realize I forgot to install the snap ring)
1 hour to reassemble the door (and lubricated all the interior door mechanisms) including installing the window run.

I don't work fast, and I have to hunt for tools a lot, but I would not be a LOT faster.

The next one will go faster, but I won't get it anywhere close to the 2 hours as stated by others.

I will work through all four doors to improve speed and reliability and to reduce wind noise so I can talk on the phone while I drive.

 

[alia176]

Just to bump this one to the top:

I did my driver's window this weekend.
Installed new window run channel
Installed new Belt moulding inside and outside
Removed entire regulator and cleaned with brake cleaner, re-lubed with white lithium grease
Disassembled motor and cleaned commutator
Cleaned motor gears and used new white lithium grease
I wish I had new brushes for the motor and I would have installed them. The brushes here are probably only 30% remaining. If I would have had time and done another window first, I may have swapped the motor from the LR to the LF since the LR gets a LOT less use. Assuming, of course, that the actual motor part is the same.

Window is MUCH quieter now, approx 4 seconds to roll down, 5 seconds to roll up.

Definitely reduced the wind noise.

All this took me about 7-8 hours on the one door.
1-1/2 hours for the inner and outer belt moulding (and installing new screws and washers on the door card)
1 hour for disassembling the entire door and plastic
2 hours for cleaning the door mechanism and re-greasing
2 hours for disassembling, cleaning, lubricating, and reassembling the window motor (there was a lot of assembly and reassembly, as I had thing turned the wrong way, kept getting grease smeared all over inside the motor housing, and got it all together, only to realize I forgot to install the snap ring)
1 hour to reassemble the door (and lubricated all the interior door mechanisms) including installing the window run.

I don't work fast, and I have to hunt for tools a lot, but I would not be a LOT faster.

The next one will go faster, but I won't get it anywhere close to the 2 hours as stated by others.

I will work through all four doors to improve speed and reliability and to reduce wind noise so I can talk on the phone while I drive.

Nice feedback dude! Hopefully the speed will maintain through the frigid temps.

 

[RFB]

Just to bump this one to the top:

I did my driver's window this weekend.
Installed new window run channel
Installed new Belt moulding inside and outside
Removed entire regulator and cleaned with brake cleaner, re-lubed with white lithium grease
Disassembled motor and cleaned commutator
Cleaned motor gears and used new white lithium grease
I wish I had new brushes for the motor and I would have installed them. The brushes here are probably only 30% remaining. If I would have had time and done another window first, I may have swapped the motor from the LR to the LF since the LR gets a LOT less use. Assuming, of course, that the actual motor part is the same.

Window is MUCH quieter now, approx 4 seconds to roll down, 5 seconds to roll up.

Definitely reduced the wind noise.

All this took me about 7-8 hours on the one door.
1-1/2 hours for the inner and outer belt moulding (and installing new screws and washers on the door card)
1 hour for disassembling the entire door and plastic
2 hours for cleaning the door mechanism and re-greasing
2 hours for disassembling, cleaning, lubricating, and reassembling the window motor (there was a lot of assembly and reassembly, as I had thing turned the wrong way, kept getting grease smeared all over inside the motor housing, and got it all together, only to realize I forgot to install the snap ring)
1 hour to reassemble the door (and lubricated all the interior door mechanisms) including installing the window run.

I don't work fast, and I have to hunt for tools a lot, but I would not be a LOT faster.

The next one will go faster, but I won't get it anywhere close to the 2 hours as stated by others.

I will work through all four doors to improve speed and reliability and to reduce wind noise so I can talk on the phone while I drive.

KIZMUT pure and simple I have done all runs rubber throughtout entire truck thanks @beno but I need to remove and relube motors bad

 

[RFB]

Now this is a great mod, I did ALL new OEM rubber on my truck ALL of it runs doors rear hatch etc and when it started getting cold BAM windows to a crawl and also tipping enough to allow in air, WTF!! and then I followed this and SHAZAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAMMMM!!! all is well. thank you.

 

[Chappy 65]

Nice... Thanks for sharing.

 

[ALX4X4]

Just bumping into the 2020's for those who spent ages (me) searching for this thread as I knew I'd read it years ago !

 

[GaryN]

Thank you for the writeup and pictures - just finished cleaning the motor and lubing up the assembly. Primary problem now.. given the door is opened up, and window out... is needing to perform all the other improvements -- eg sound deadening, clean the rubber, new felt.

 

[AK Surfer]

Bump for 2021. My windows need some TLC too and now I have a good path forward.

 

[6lug]

Just did my driver window. Much better!

 

[HarryHarrison]

Hey, I was searching out info too. I had a question about beefing a wire up to speed up the windows and to keep things tidy figured I'd ask here. I literally just read someone talking about it in a build but cannot find it. Does anyone know how to do this please?

 

[MrMikeyG]

I think the wiring upgrade happened more often for the 60 series folks, so maybe check over there? I have heard that the same basic mods can help for us 80 folks too. Sorry I'm not more help.

 

[HarryHarrison]

Thanks, I found this on my travels

Power Window Switch Fix w/ Relays

There are some other threads out there that address this concept, most notably: https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/213396-power-window-homebrew-fix.html But I didn't see anything specific to the 80 series so thought I'd include my experience. I've had problems with slow windows...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[FirstToy]

2023 bump- wanted to add some detail to this great thread

1. vapor barrier - just cut the butyl w/ a sharp knife. You can press it back together later or use a new sheet of plastic and cut to shape.
Buy some butyl sealant (photo next post) to stick to the door.
2. clean inside the door! debris -and even ad cards they slide in the window fall in- all that stuff can clog the drain holes (visible in the photo)
3. Window guide rubber - the flat part (red arrow) is what the glass runs against. Wash it all out and scrub. the flat area should be smooth.
Dry and pay attention to lube the inside flat area. Then, lube the entire window rubber inside and out. You can do a bit extra at the ends to help slide in. But make sure you lube both inside and outside of the rubber. Don't try to slide in dry rubber or soapy water. Soap won't hurt anything but rubber lube just makes life super easy and it conditions the rubber.
4. If you remove the motor assembly, remember to grease all the gears and pivots.

 

[FirstToy]

Butyl tape - it's basically a rope of butyl.
I grease the trim clips - so it's less chance to break next time

Toyota has rubber grease but I use Shin Etsu (Honda). It's brilliant stuff and no residue.
I wouldn't use anything else on the rubber. You will be amazed how easy it is to just slide the rubber runs into place.

 

[OkiThe80]

Bump for 2024, definitely a great write up and thread. My passenger front window would barely move once it got cold and now it goes up in about 8 seconds in 30 deg F weather. I was surprised at how gummed up the rollers on the mechanism were. I still plan on removing all the window runs once it warms up and giving them a good cleaning. I think that will improve things a lot as well.

 

[ebbs15]

Definitely going to reference this thread in the spring! my window's won't go but 3/4 of the way up unless they're pulled up. Thanks in advance for the write up. I'll probably end up just replacing the motor and the window runs (anyone have a part number handy?) but we'll see how it goes when I get in there.