Got my ARB- Looking for mod ideas

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geez, you might have to plate the backside of the ARB just to make a nice solid weld, that thing won't break at least.

I see you couldn't keep your finger out of the hole....
 
jeffro109 said:
geez, you might have to plate the backside of the ARB just to make a nice solid weld, that thing won't break at least.

I see you couldn't keep your finger out of the hole....
Click to expand...

Yeah I was noticing the plate behind would need to be beefed up.

And yes, I see hole and I must put finger in :flipoff2:
 
Where do you plan to place those clevis tabs? I was looking at my ARB and it seems like if those were a bit longer you could almost add an extra hole in the bumper side of the tab, cut a slot immediately in front of the frame rails and slide it in and secure it with the cross bolts used to mount the ARB to the rails.
 
wearsabrowncoat said:
Where do you plan to place those clevis tabs? I was looking at my ARB and it seems like if those were a bit longer you could almost add an extra hole in the bumper side of the tab, cut a slot immediately in front of the frame rails and slide it in and secure it with the cross bolts used to mount the ARB to the rails.
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Well I didn't think they would be long to do that but I will definitely check. I was going to install them as close to the frame as possible though. Same with the lift notches.
 
I was thinking about those "T" notches for the hi-lift. If I were to add them it would be just outside of the center section. Just inside of where the ARB decal is on the one side. It would be low of flush to allow adding a plate to reinforce the bumper but at the same time add some height so the flat portion of the hi-lift lifting platform was making contact and not the upward pointing toe.
 
So I found out there is a Parker Connectors and Fittings store less then ONE mile from my work. :D

I picked up a bunch of 3/8" fittings and some hose to play around with ideas. I think I am going to go Parker for everything for the OBA and the Shower install. I really want Stainless Steel fittings and connectors and it turns out we have a mud member who is not only a Parker dealer himself but his entire business revolves around stainless. I think I'm going to be sinking a bunch of money into this endeavor. :P

Yes I'm going to do Pretolok on everything. I learned there is a DOT version which has a deeper lock along with an interior sleeve which goes into the tube. This is seriously stupid overkill especially since the $6 Parker part becomes a $30 DOT part. And that's not even in stainless. I found a quick disconnect I like that I think I'm going to use. They are called Nipple Couplers. They look like your standard compressed air quick disconnects but they are nippled on both sides of the mating connector which prevents any leakage at all. Overkill a bit but I like that. I will get these in all stainless so that I don't need to concern myself over the steel internals rusting. I also picked up a breather filter. I like these and may use them or my breather extenders. The mount for these will just be a bent piece of steel that will be powder coated with the rest of the bumper. I have the Odyssey battery tray on its way and now just reading up on which SureFlo I need to order.

My question on the Parker fittings, how in the heck to I attach them to the truck? I don't want something hideous like a steel, rubber lined, clamp. That just screams cheap.

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Last edited:
NLXTACY said:
My question on the Parker fittings, how in the heck to I attach them to the truck? I don't want something hideous like a steel, rubber lined, clamp. That just screams cheap.
Click to expand...

Bulkhead connector is the term I believe

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cody c said:
Bulkhead connector is the term I believe
Click to expand...

Yeah there are those but I'm talking about something like a "T" fitting. Its in the engine bay. How do I attach this thing to keep it from bouncing around? Some of the solutions I've seen don't make me happy.
 
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