Got a repair estimate from a dealership... (1 Viewer)

[slacker24-7]

Man that estimate is nuts !! I recently had my fuel pump go out and luckily had a spare factory pump I had bought for that reason. I replaced it in a hour thanks to It having a access port under the back seat . So for $100 bucks and a hours time it was done. I went back through my receipts from the PO and found where he had had it done years ago at a dealer who charged him $985 to replace the pump. As others have said I try to do all I can my self. With this great resource in Mud and there being you tube vids of about everything it can be done. Glad you posted the stealerships name and declined thier work.

 

[Slashzero]

Yes! This particular dealership service center seems to do it to a lot of people, according to Yelp reviews, just not to the extent they did to me.

I want to start doing all the work myself. I've started to collect cheap Harbor Freight tools, etc. I'm very comfortable working on the interior of cars, but I need to get comfortable crawling under them.

Also, would be interesting to see other's stealership estimates posted here.

Man that estimate is nuts !! I recently had my fuel pump go out and luckily had a spare factory pump I had bought for that reason. I replaced it in a hour thanks to It having a access port under the back seat . So for $100 bucks and a hours time it was done. I went back through my receipts from the PO and found where he had had it done years ago at a dealer who charged him $985 to replace the pump. As others have said I try to do all I can my self. With this great resource in Mud and there being you tube vids of about everything it can be done. Glad you posted the stealerships name and declined thier work.

 

[SHIfTHEAD]

Yes! This particular dealership service center seems to do it to a lot of people, according to Yelp reviews, just not to the extent they did to me.

I want to start doing all the work myself. I've started to collect cheap Harbor Freight tools, etc. I'm very comfortable working on the interior of cars, but I need to get comfortable crawling under them.

Also, would be interesting to see other's stealership estimates posted here.

That's the best way to start. None of this is Rocket Science. Even welding. Whoever did the welds on your muffler was no welder. Hell, I'm no welder but mine look professional by comparison. Since we are on the subject, I bought a flux wire welder from Harbor freight nearly 20 years ago . I have since upgraded to a Mig, but with quality flux wire the HF welder does a pretty damn good job. Might be hard to weld exhaust pipe because flux wire burns hotter, so you burn holes in the tubing, but it's a cheap way to get into welding.

 

[Slashzero]

What if I just get 4 of these Moog u-joints from RockAuto, plus a u-joint removal tool? It looks like they come with clips, in case I lose the existing ones.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=387691&cc=1418352

$16 per u-joint, plus another $16 for the removal tool. I also need a grease gun and grease! I am going to try this myself.

While I'm under there, I might replace the rear sway bar links too. These look OK?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4210956&cc=1418352

You can get all 4 U joints on the truck, from Moog, for ~$100. It's a pain to replace them all, but I bet it's the rear driveshaft that's causing the vibration anyway. If not, you have the other two for the front driveshaft. Do the job yourself and save $600.

U Joint Replacement Kit | 03-11 Toyota Landcruiser 4WD

 

[Slashzero]

The truck will only be out there in June for a bit but if you see a black '06 with a quad retrofit and Toyo Open Country AT2s, chances are that's me!

Change of plans! We won't be out there until July. There are no ferry spots left for June.

I love driving around Nantucket's dirt roads and beaches, don't you?

 

[Leandro]

My 2 cents. If you exhaust is rubbing something in the frame or suspension, you should see the mark / scratch. Look for that.

 

[Slashzero]

My 2 cents. If you exhaust is rubbing something in the frame or suspension, you should see the mark / scratch. Look for that.

They are awfully close... But I don't see any rub marks on the muffler pipe or that bar.

I'll admit I haven't had time to jack the truck up and put it on stands to get a closer look. It's been raining, my driveway is not flat, and there is too much junk in my garage to work in there. Plus it's a single car garage so would be really tight.

I think I'm going to start with the rear u-joints, per @SHIfTHEAD's original suggestion. It's odd the dealership repair estimate only mentioned the front u-joints.

 

[El Perro Grande]

I will never see the inside of a Toyota dealership service center again. I have owned Land Cruisers since '94. I have not been to a dealership for anything but to pick up parts in over 15 years. This is from many years of experience with Toyota dealerships in multiple states. I just simply can't imagine ever taking a vehicle to Toyota. That $11,000 estimate? Ha! Don't let that be the thing you find peculiar.... it's when you say "ok" and then when you go to pick up your truck they give you the bill for $17,000.... and it's still not fixed.

 

[Slashzero]

Hah! Yeah, it's crazy. They likely would do the bare minimum but still charge all the labor hours, not even touch some of the proposed repairs, but still charge for the parts, plus as you said discover "other issues" along the way.

The other nasty thing they did was add every single bullet point from that "repair estimate" to the service record of my truck. It now states "possible initial signs of frame rot, cust declined" on the service record.

Ah well. I learned my lesson, again. I thought I had learned it from dealing with the VW dealership. I guess I needed a refresher.

I will never see the inside of a Toyota dealership service center again. I have owned Land Cruisers since '94. I have not been to a dealership for anything but to pick up parts in over 15 years. This is from many years of experience with Toyota dealerships in multiple states. I just simply can't imagine ever taking a vehicle to Toyota. That $11,000 estimate? Ha! Don't let that be the thing you find peculiar.... it's when you say "ok" and then when you go to pick up your truck they give you the bill for $17,000.... and it's still not fixed.

 

[Slashzero]

Thanks for the recommendations. I spoke with Gus over at Volsar, and plan to drop my truck off.

I've been stockpiling parts while waiting for some free time to tear things apart myself, and they are willing to use my parts if any are needed.

Hopefully I don't get another $11,000 repair estimate.

Don't know where in MA you are, but Volsar Auto in Medford or J. White's Automotive in Framingham or BDR Auto in Holliston all work on Cruisers and come recommended.

 

[RND1]

Thanks for the recommendations. I spoke with Gus over at Volsar, and plan to drop my truck off.

I've been stockpiling parts while waiting for some free time to tear things apart myself, and they are willing to use my parts if any are needed.

Hopefully I don't get another $11,000 repair estimate.

Gus is great - they did a lot of work on my cruiser before HIH7 and I did a 5K mile road trip with zero issues. Eddie is his cruiser guy there - knows his stuff and does a lot of off road in a 60 or 80 series. Eddie installed a new steering rack, did some suspension work, alignment, etc. Just wish he was closer to me and in a less dense area.

BTW, as I'm sure you know, Lexington is full of very affluent people that just say "do it" to anything their Toyota or Lexus service manager recommends without the first concern for cost. They also assume that Land Cruiser owners are affluent and if they can afford one, they can afford to pay for whatever it needs.

 

[Slashzero]

These guys really are great! We went out on a test drive together when I got there so they could hear all the noises. Upon hearing the vibration, his first comment was that it's likely the muffler.

I felt good leaving my truck in their hands.

I also had them do my heater Ts, hoses, clamps, and replace all the seized parking brake parts with the "kit" I got from CruisersParts.net. I left some high quality ceramic based brake grease with them to pack the bell crank boots. Hopefully that helps them not seize up again. I use the parking brake a lot though. It's been weird not being able to use it when parking.

They also checked u-joints for the front and rear driveshafts. Looked good, and they greased them up. I had 4 Moog u-joints on-hand just in case.

Tomorrow they are going to cut the tail pipe, re-route it, and do a proper weld. Hopefully that's the end of the vibration and I can enjoy the sound of the engine. If that doesn't get rid of the vibration, well at least the muffler will be routed properly, and they will dig deeper to find the source.

I'm looking at about $500. Wow. Compare that to the dealership repair estimate in my original post... $11,314.24

Gus is great - they did a lot of work on my cruiser before HIH7 and I did a 5K mile road trip with zero issues. Eddie is his cruiser guy there - knows his stuff and does a lot of off road in a 60 or 80 series. Eddie installed a new steering rack, did some suspension work, alignment, etc. Just wish he was closer to me and in a less dense area.

BTW, as I'm sure you know, Lexington is full of very affluent people that just say "do it" to anything their Toyota or Lexus service manager recommends without the first concern for cost. They also assume that Land Cruiser owners are affluent and if they can afford one, they can afford to pay for whatever it needs.

 

[SHIfTHEAD]

That's a fair estimate for all that work. Sounds like a good shop .

 

[RND1]

Glad to hear @Slashzero - I'll be scheduling w Gus soon myself to have them install a Slee diff drop and do some other work.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I used to be such a fan of dealers for "ensuring work gets done right", but I've pretty completely flipped my thoughts on that. Dealers are often as/more incompetent/careless than random indy shops and with a much higher labor rate. They seem to want only easy work with high markup parts. It would seem some poor souls actually buy that every now and then.

Glad you found a good mechanic willing to work on it. It's a shame so many dealers just quote huge assemblies when a simple rebuild kit or something would do. The exhaust manifolds and hardware at over $3k was the line item that stuck out to me most. Holy cow.

Good luck!

 

[Slashzero]

I used to be such a fan of dealers for "ensuring work gets done right", but I've pretty completely flipped my thoughts on that. [...] The exhaust manifolds and hardware at over $3k was the line item that stuck out to me most. Holy cow.

Good luck!

Thanks! Yes, the service manager also kept saying the exhaust manifold was rotten. I think I could get DT headers and still come in under their estimate. I also priced out all the parts to replace with OEM (using McGeorge Toyota) and parts were still around $600.

I'm sure there are some good and honest dealerships that put the customer first, but that number is dwindling. This particular dealership should be avoided like the plague.

 

[97 AZ LC]

I'm looking at about $500. Wow. Compare that to the dealership repair estimate in my original post... $11,314.24

With that evidence in hand you are in better position to dispute the overstated repair estimate showing up on your car's service record - with two arguments: that it's not a service record, and that it's grossly inaccurate to boot. If it was me I'd work hard to get that "service record" deleted from the permanent record.

 

[Slashzero]

You make a very good point! I had not even thought about this. I've been avoiding it. Now that I have proof there was nothing wrong with other parts of the truck, I should contact that dealership and try to have them remove all of that from the service record.

With that evidence in hand you are in better position to dispute the overstated repair estimate showing up on your car's service record - with two arguments: that it's not a service record, and that it's grossly inaccurate to boot. If it was me I'd work hard to get that "service record" deleted from the permanent record.

 

[Samir112211]

Hello,

I've owned my 2003 LC for almost a month now. It drives well, sounds great, and looks good (IMO).

I've been trying to figure out a vibration noise that only happens when I have a lot of people (weight) inside the truck, during acceleration. I decided to take it to a dealership for diagnosis because they are usually pretty "thorough."

So I got a call from the dealership, today. They informed me my truck needs about $11,000 worth of work.

I told them to give me the itemized list, and I do not approve their estimate. I will be picking it up tonight.

Their opinion on the vibration was that the front drive shaft u-joints need to be replaced. ($700)

Here is the full list:

1. PA BOTH FRONT U JOINTS, $696.46
2. PA ALL EBRAKE PIVOT PARTS REAR PADS SHIMS AND ROTORS AND 2 CALIPERS, $1895.60
3. REAR SWAY BAR LINKS AND ALL HDW AND BUSHING, $222.62
4. NO QUOTE, $24
5. PA EXHAUST FROM CENTER MUFFLER BACK ALL GASKETS AND HDW AND VIBRATION DAMPENER, $971.78
6. PA REAR E BRAKE SHOES AND ALL SPRINGS AND HWD, $358.26
7. PA FRONT PADS ROTORS AND ALL HDW AND CALIPERS, $1604
8. NO QUOTE FRAME CONDITION, $.10
9. PA TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP, $1165.08 (note: these were changed at 140k, truck has 197k now).
10. PA FRONT SPLASH GUARD, $401.97
11. PA REAR DIFF VENT, $194.43
12. PA EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND HEAT SHIELDS AND ALL GASKETS AND HDW ALL STUDS AND NUTS, $3090.50
13. 30K8 SERCIVE, $175.02
14. AC REFRESHER SERVICE, $149.95

SUBTOTAL: $10,949.77
SHOP CHARGES: $19.95
TAX: $344.52
TOTAL: $11,314.24

The service manager kept insisting my truck was going to fall apart any minute.

Meanwhile, my personal mechanic has inspected the brakes and informed me I might need new rear pads in a few months, but that's it. The truck front end isn't dragging, I don't smell anything burning, and it brakes fine. At least that's how it was when I dropped it off...

Them telling me the front calipers are seized is what is bothering me the most. The PO had the breaks done in the last year or so, as well as the water pump and timing belt at 140k (have receipts). If my brakes are suddenly messed up, that's going to be an odd coincidence. Have dealerships broken stuff on purpose in the past for anyone? Update: my brakes are working just fine.

At least now I will have a list of stuff I can check.

I've driven this truck all the way to the tip of Great Point in Nantucket (several miles of beach driving), and done some light trails and haven't had any issues so far. I've put almost 1000 miles on it so far.

Sorry if iam wrong but insist you to visit any other special mechanics which has expirence and broad idea in it and also
mostly parts from dealership are overpriced here in my country also it is very overpriced so i insist you to check from third party dealer which also import geniune toyota parts from dubai and japan or you can check yourself at websites like amayama.com megazip.com partsouq.com

 

[Slashzero]

OK! From this point on, I will always take my LC to Volsar Auto.

Got a call earlier this morning that the muffler was done, they added a new section of pipe with the correct bend and routed and secured it properly. That vibration noise is absolutely gone.

They also pointed out both rear sway links needed to be replaced. they were the source of the light clunk heard while breaking. Luckily, I just received a pair of links from the RockAuto "inventory clearance sale" they recently posted on the forums. I bought them thinking mine needed replacing. Dropped them off, and they were installed. Let's see how long the MOVETECH links last.

I'm happy to say all the thunks and clunks, and that nasty vibration sound are completely gone.