DIY a/c repair, worth it? (1 Viewer)

[TexLexican]

Where are y’all buying your schrader valves??

 

[shtbrwn86]

I am so bitter about AC work. I can't stand the industry. It's like pharma, or the NAR, mexifornia, thanks f ers.
DIY. if ten dollar cans of 134 don't convince you than nothing would. Look a the yield curve of R134.
I swear I'm moving contires. I'm that 70 year old man with the diesel merc getting pissed off, shopping at walmart, with dollar cans of 134 in the trunk,
dying of a heart attack because Folgers costs 20 dollars a pound.

re sealable cans, gtfo

What's the deal with resealable cans? Isn't that good? I mean don't you want the cans to reseal so you can keep using them?

 

[shtbrwn86]

Where are y’all buying your schrader valves??

Came back to ask this same question. I don't want to go through this whole process and have some cheapy Autozone valves leak on me. I wonder if I could pull some valves out of a newer car at the wrecking yard?

 

[shtbrwn86]

Looks like low side and high side are the same part number

 

[jerryb]

it's just that puncture cans were easier, you also have to buy an adapter.
WOW I was drunk yesterday. Excuse my last.

 

[Rednexus]

AC works is really easy, I've done all of mine with the $60 HF gauge set and their vacuum "pump" that works off of compressed air ($15 tool or so). I've replaced compressors, lines, condenser cores, O-rings etc on multiple vehicles. Leaks (in my experience) are usually O-rings on the lines. I have not personally had a Schrader valve issue, but have replaced them when installing new lines without issues.

I would suggest when recharging your system to put in 1 can of R134A that includes the green/UV dye (to allow you to find leaks in the future) and 1 normal can.

Regarding resealable cans - no issues for me, I like them as you can pull out the can tap and have the can sit on the shelves for years without worrying about it leaking.

 

[TexLexican]

AC works is really easy, I've done all of mine with the $60 HF gauge set and their vacuum "pump" that works off of compressed air ($15 tool or so). I've replaced compressors, lines, condenser cores, O-rings etc on multiple vehicles. Leaks (in my experience) are usually O-rings on the lines. I have not personally had a Schrader valve issue, but have replaced them when installing new lines without issues.

I would suggest when recharging your system to put in 1 can of R134A that includes the green/UV dye (to allow you to find leaks in the future) and 1 normal can.

Regarding resealable cans - no issues for me, I like them as you can pull out the can tap and have the can sit on the shelves for years without worrying about it leaking.

What high and low pressures are we looking for when recharging?

 

[Eyedaho]

Looks like low side and high side are the same part number

View attachment 3461253

With them only costing a couple of bucks each, is there any reason you're not just getting them from the dealer?

 

[shtbrwn86]

With them only costing a couple of bucks each, is there any reason you're not just getting them from the dealer?

I did get them from the dealer. I just used the partsouq picture for reference

 

[Rednexus]

What high and low pressures are we looking for when recharging?

It's been a few years so I don't totally recall. I usually Google an AC charge chart online and refill to that. I also weigh the cans with a small scale to add the right amount of R134A.

 

[Eyedaho]

I did get them from the dealer. I just used the partsouq picture for reference

Cool. You asked about crappy AutoZone ones, was why I was asking.

 

[TexLexican]

I’m about to turn my a/c issue over to the pros. I was charging my a/c and pulled a vacuum, but my clutch was free spinning the whole time and I wasnt able to properly read the pressure. Anyone know why the clutch would be free spinning??

 

[Eyedaho]

I’m about to turn my a/c issue over to the pros. I was charging my a/c and pulled a vacuum, but my clutch was free spinning the whole time and I wasnt able to properly read the pressure. Anyone know why the clutch would be free spinning??

I'm confused. Were you running the engine while you were pulling vacuum?

If not then I think you had something open to atmosphere?

 

[TexLexican]

I'm confused. Were you running the engine while you were pulling vacuum?

If not then I think you had something open to atmosphere?

My bad. I’m not sure if it’s the correct term but I emptied the refrigerant into the system and the low side gauge was reading zero the whole time.

I’ve only used the dummy proof gauges included with the refrigerant in the past but this time I had a legit manifold.

After I shut off the truck the low side read 70 up from around 30.

 

[Rednexus]

The AC compressor has a pressure sensor on it, and the clutch won't engage until there is a sufficient amount of R134A (and corresponding pressure) in the system. If you don't reach that pressure it will never turn on. This is to keep your compressor from self-destructing (as the refrigerant also contains compressor oil).

Also make sure your manifold set was actually engaging the valves. I tried using a loaner manifold set on one of my other vehicles and they were either too long or short (don't recall) to push the Schrader valve in all of the way, so they did not work. I then bought the cheapie HF set which has worked on multiple vehicles.

Also did you verify that your system held the vacuum for 30 minutes (engine off) prior to charging?