Got a repair estimate from a dealership... (1 Viewer)

[Slashzero]

Hello,

I've owned my 2003 LC for almost a month now. It drives well, sounds great, and looks good (IMO).

I've been trying to figure out a vibration noise that only happens when I have a lot of people (weight) inside the truck, during acceleration. I decided to take it to a dealership for diagnosis because they are usually pretty "thorough."

So I got a call from the dealership, today. They informed me my truck needs about $11,000 worth of work.

I told them to give me the itemized list, and I do not approve their estimate. I will be picking it up tonight.

Their opinion on the vibration was that the front drive shaft u-joints need to be replaced. ($700)

Here is the full list:

1. PA BOTH FRONT U JOINTS, $696.46
2. PA ALL EBRAKE PIVOT PARTS REAR PADS SHIMS AND ROTORS AND 2 CALIPERS, $1895.60
3. REAR SWAY BAR LINKS AND ALL HDW AND BUSHING, $222.62
4. NO QUOTE, $24
5. PA EXHAUST FROM CENTER MUFFLER BACK ALL GASKETS AND HDW AND VIBRATION DAMPENER, $971.78
6. PA REAR E BRAKE SHOES AND ALL SPRINGS AND HWD, $358.26
7. PA FRONT PADS ROTORS AND ALL HDW AND CALIPERS, $1604
8. NO QUOTE FRAME CONDITION, $.10
9. PA TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP, $1165.08 (note: these were changed at 140k, truck has 197k now).
10. PA FRONT SPLASH GUARD, $401.97
11. PA REAR DIFF VENT, $194.43
12. PA EXHAUST MANIFOLDS AND HEAT SHIELDS AND ALL GASKETS AND HDW ALL STUDS AND NUTS, $3090.50
13. 30K8 SERCIVE, $175.02
14. AC REFRESHER SERVICE, $149.95

SUBTOTAL: $10,949.77
SHOP CHARGES: $19.95
TAX: $344.52
TOTAL: $11,314.24

The service manager kept insisting my truck was going to fall apart any minute.

Meanwhile, my personal mechanic has inspected the brakes and informed me I might need new rear pads in a few months, but that's it. The truck front end isn't dragging, I don't smell anything burning, and it brakes fine. At least that's how it was when I dropped it off...

Them telling me the front calipers are seized is what is bothering me the most. The PO had the breaks done in the last year or so, as well as the water pump and timing belt at 140k (have receipts). If my brakes are suddenly messed up, that's going to be an odd coincidence. Have dealerships broken stuff on purpose in the past for anyone? Update: my brakes are working just fine.

At least now I will have a list of stuff I can check.

I've driven this truck all the way to the tip of Great Point in Nantucket (several miles of beach driving), and done some light trails and haven't had any issues so far. I've put almost 1000 miles on it so far.

 

[krice118]

Find someone who knows the 100 series and get another opinion. Typically Dealers don’t see many of these

 

[ga12r1]

I would stay away from anyone that quotes a repair on a “rear end tie rod”. Yikes.

 

[Slashzero]

I will! Thanks. When I first dropped it off yesterday, they told me they needed to wait for master technician to be able to look at it.

Does anyone know of a good LC mechanic I'm the Northeast? NH, CT, MA are all within driving distance, but someone in MA would be preferred.

Find someone who knows the 100 series and get another opinion. Typically Dealers don’t see many of these

 

[Slashzero]

He said it was rotten.

I would stay away from anyone that quotes a repair on a “rear end tie rod”. Yikes.

 

[98100Crusher]

On the rear diff breather: for a diy comparison the part [90930-03097, breather plug] is $10 online. There's a union(attaches into housing and a hose that are potentially clogged but its likely its just the breather plug is corroded (especially if the truck has spent time on the beach).

 

[Slashzero]

Thank you! I will look into this.

On the rear diff breather: for a diy comparison the part [90930-03097, breather plug] is $10 online. There's a union(attaches into housing and a hose that are potentially clogged but its likely its just the breather plug is corroded (especially if the truck has spent time on the beach).

 

[cwmoser]

Take comfort that you didn't take it to a Lexus Service Department

Like you I would make brakes the priority item.

 

[Slashzero]

I ordered the parking brake complete replacement kit from cruisersparts.net. they tell me it shipped.

My plan is to replace the seized part in the Bell housing once I receive the kit.

I'm working on the assumption my personal mechanic is correct that my brakes are fine, but I will check them out again myself as well.

Take comfort that you didn't take it to a Lexus Service Department

Like you I would make brakes the priority item.

 

[gnarlynick2072]

$700 for drive shaft u joints? Tell them to pound sand.

 

[white_lx]

This thread could be major motivator for all of us to keep doing the work ourselves. Not only because it saves money. But also because it gets done better and in general I'm very honest to myself.

Would you mind posting the mileage of your vehicle?

 

[Somebodyelse5]

This thread could be major motivator for all of us to keep doing the work ourselves. Not only because it saves money. But also because it gets done better and in general I'm very honest to myself.

Would you mind posting the mileage of your vehicle?

Yup, if you are willing to curse and bleed a little, almost everything is doable in a driveway. Might take longer but it's more rewarding and you can use your savings to buy more tools

 

[SHIfTHEAD]

Yeah, that dealer is totally ripping you off. Clogged diff breather $250? $700 u joints? The labor rates at this shop must be sky high.

Now, back to the vibration issue, you only feel it when the truck is full (payload is way up). My initial guess would be a u joint due to the rear axle changing position relative to less payload, which in turn changes the angles the U joint is working with when spinning. This is only one of several possibilities, but it's where I'd start.

You can get all 4 U joints on the truck, from Moog, for ~$100. It's a pain to replace them all, but I bet it's the rear driveshaft that's causing the vibration anyway. If not, you have the other two for the front driveshaft. Do the job yourself and save $600.

U Joint Replacement Kit | 03-11 Toyota Landcruiser 4WD

 

[lhommec13]

Just curious which dealer you took it to?

 

[Slashzero]

Current mileage is 197,555.

Truck is originally from Vermont, then a few years Illinois (literally 2), and finally me.

I have their repair estimate in hand now. Total repair estimate: $11,314.24.

The service manager kept insisting the frame was beginning to show signs of rot and the truck could fall apart any minute.

This thread could be major motivator for all of us to keep doing the work ourselves. Not only because it saves money. But also because it gets done better and in general I'm very honest to myself.

Would you mind posting the mileage of your vehicle?

 

[Slashzero]

I'd rather not share my location, but rest assured I never plan to set foot there again.

Just curious which dealer you took it to?

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Current mileage is 197,555.

Truck is originally from Vermont, the a few years Illinois (literally 2), and finally me.

I have their repair estimate I'm hand now. Total repair estimate: $11,314.24.

The service manager kept insisting the frame was beginning to show signs of rot and the truck could fall apart any minute.

They seem to like employing the safety scare factor. As much as I like buying OEM parts, dealing with OEM dealers (or most any shop for that matter) is never especially pleasant.

 

[blatant]

Why, so someone else can waste their valuable time and potentially get screwed by the dealership?

Share the location, the dealership earned it. Help your fellow mudders in that area out.

I'd rather not share my location, but rest assured I never plan to set foot there again.

 

[97 AZ LC]

In Germany they take cars off the road for too much rust. They don't want frames collapsing on the roads or especially the autobahn. One of the symptoms must be drive train vibration under acceleration with a heavy load. That said I think in giving you an $11k estimate the dealer is effectively telling you "we don't to work on your truck and you should never come back here." And you should heed their request.

 

[Slashzero]

Fair enough, but I don’t see a lot of rust under the truck. My mechanic has inspected the truck and found no major rust issues with it.

Meanwhile the dealership is saying the frame is starting to show signs of rot?

The mechanic I had inspect my brakes said my brakes were fine. Meanwhile the dealership wanted to replace every single brake part front and rear?

Something doesn’t add up. The only part I believe is regarding the u joints, because that makes sense with the noise I’m hearing. I will try to get a recording of if.

Side note: About 4 years ago, the VW dealership gave me a $2000 estimate on my wife’s 2008 Passat wagon, insisting I needed to repair stuff ASAP. I took the car and left. Stopped by a mechanic on the way home and had him check everything they pointed out. He said there was nothing wrong with any of it. Car still runs great, never addressed any of their “concerns”. This mechanic happens to be who I take my cars to most of the time, now.

Sometimes you find honest people, sometimes you don’t. I didn’t get a good vibe from this dealership, and feel bad for anyone who takes their car there.

Now that I think about it, I took my mom
to this dealership to test drive a car maybe 8 years ago. I remember we left after test driving a Yaris (which my mom hated). After that, the sales guy called me twice a day for about 3 weeks, and left a voice mail every time. I eventually blocked the number.

In Germany they take cars off the road for too much rust. They don't want frames collapsing on the roads or especially the autobahn. One of the symptoms must be drive train vibration under acceleration with a heavy load. That said I think in giving you an $11k estimate the dealer is effectively telling you "we don't to work on your truck and you should never come back here." And you should heed their request.