PRE-COLLISION SYSTEM MALFUNCTION AND FORWARD CAMERA SYSTEM UNAVAILABLE (2 Viewers)

[82SC]

I removed both connectors when replacing my grille. I don’t recall the exact connection type to the camera but I KNOW it didn’t need a special tool.

So there maybe corrosion there that is the reason for it feeling stuck.

Don’t think there is a “clear code” method for you issue.

 

[Oakleyguy]

As some others have mentioned, check underneath your passenger floor mat , passenger door sill trim, and passenger kick panel for water. I helped a friend diagnose the same issue and it was water leaking into the cabin from a bad windshield installation. Water leaks onto/into electrical harnesses and wrecks havoc.

There are two main culperts for water ingress in this situation:
Blocked/clogged sunroof drain tube
Poor and leaking windshield installation.

 

[ToothDr]

You stated the windshield was “good and sealed”. Do you have the original factory installed glass or a replacement unit

 

[ElTeaKay]

Update: Took the LC to another Toyota dealer service department here in Austin today. And though I have no way of testing the seal on the windshield or the seal around the emblem in the grille, their technician did state they believe the windshield IS leaking just above the camera behind the rear view mirror. Ideally they can re-seal the windshield, save/recalibrate/reuse the windshield camera. The windshield did get replaced in late 2000 with Toyota glass but not installed by a Toyota dealer.

 

[ElTeaKay]

You stated the windshield was “good and sealed”. Do you have the original factory installed glass or a replacement unit

Replaced with Toyota glass months after purchase to repair a crack in the driver sightline.

 

[ToothDr]

Agree that the windshield is the likely culprit. Numerous threads on this very topic.

 

[Oakleyguy]

Just to put it out there, the few ways that come to mind to test the windshield that come to mind:

• Have someone using a pressure washer on the outside of the glass while a second person is inspecting from the interior.
• Soap the exterior seal and use compressed air from the inside, may require head liner removal, etc.
• The hard way, tape closed the pressure relief vents in the rear quarter panels, tape closed the exterior HVAC air inlet, and pressurize the cabin with a shop vac, leaf blower, etc and use soap around the windshield perimeter.

 

[use2bn83]

A quick little look see says that the following connectors are common to those systems. there may be a couple more, but these are the big ones. As mentioned before, it might be worth checking them for corrosion especially if your windshield sealing is suspect or if your sunroof drains are clogged. I tried to kind of order them by number of shared connections.

if you see any corrosion at all, probably want to clean and deox. the lowest ones are in behind the LH (US drivers side) kick panel.

 

[use2bn83]

I can only attach 5 so here’s a couple more

 

[Lunadog]

This is a suggestion from what I've seen trying to replace the grill emblem on my '14 LX... I tried to replace the original sun faded emblem with a $50ish knock off from fleabay after reviewing one of NKP Garages videos. As it turns out the cheap emblems (with same exact PN) do not work if you have radar cruise. The first one I tried the radar would come on with no errors but would not 'see' any vehicles in front even though the cruise would work. The second one would throw PCS errors or radar unavailable errors with cruise not working at all. Re-install the original emblem, everything is happy... So my suggestion is try removing your grill emblem that is directly in front of the radar sensor. Its only 2 phillips head screws and a clip/snap on the bottom. Seems like a potential easy test to rule out a contaminated plastic emblem. Thats my humble $.02 from a new '14 LX owner.