Good reason to change headgasket before it blows

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I am pretty sure you would also need to swap over things like oil pump, oil cooler, Timing chain cover, timing chain/guides. I imagine this would actually be the time to replace those parts I just mentioned (except for the timing chain cover). Of course then you also replace alternator brushes, water pump, starter solenoid contacts. Where do you stop?
 
douglashuft said:
I am pretty sure you would also need to swap over things like oil pump, oil cooler, Timing chain cover, timing chain/guides. I imagine this would actually be the time to replace those parts I just mentioned (except for the timing chain cover). Of course then you also replace alternator brushes, water pump, starter solenoid contacts. Where do you stop?

Ah yes, the old "where to stop" dilemma.

FWIW, I have a new short block in stock :) 11400-66041
 
Test drove my "temporary":hillbilly: hg repair today. No signs of internal or external leaks yet. Hopefully it will last until i have the funds for a new short block. On a positive note, replacing the hg is no longer an intimidating job at all so the next time should be easier. I can also say that the truck is idling and running great. I attribute that to all new vacuum hoses (some were cracked and leaking), repaired wiring harness at egr, all the egr ports cleaned out in the exhaust manifold and the cleaned throttle body. The check engine light has not come back on. I definitely recommend swapping the head gasket if it has not been done yet, it is a very doable job for an average mechanic. i definitely feel like I got to know the motor a lot better.
 
Good job Doug. Don't worry about the fix, just drive it like you stole it and forget about it. These are tractor motors, found all over the world so I'm sure your fix is more common than we know. As a way to stop dumping PCV and EGR crud back into that pristine air intake and combustion chamber, look into the various threads that deal with these two bastards. I took apart my '97 twice in two years and you couldn't believe how much crud was deposited two years after a HG job.
 
So Onur, just curious - what's a new short block run $$ wise?
 
scottryana said:
Yes please what is the cost of the new shortblock?

If I remember correctly its ~ 3,500 mud price for a short block. OEM
 
So cool you did it, hope it last a long time.:popcorn:
 
Good job Doug. Don't worry about the fix, just drive it like you stole it and forget about it. These are tractor motors, found all over the world so I'm sure your fix is more common than we know. As a way to stop dumping PCV and EGR crud back into that pristine air intake and combustion chamber, look into the various threads that deal with these two bastards. I took apart my '97 twice in two years and you couldn't believe how much crud was deposited two years after a HG job.
I live in California so all the smog stuff has to stay on, however, sometimes a small piece of copper wire somehow gets stuck between the pins of the female connector when you are reconnecting the egr temperature sensor connector. :rolleyes:
 
I live in California so all the smog stuff has to stay on, however, sometimes a small piece of copper wire somehow gets stuck between the pins of the female connector when you are reconnecting the egr temperature sensor connector. :rolleyes:

Yes, I have to have my SMOG components be "connected" as well and you'll be shocked to see how the emissions is not impacted if the EGR is not going into the air intake.

Also, the PCV is going into the air intake as well but all I do is to filter the oil out of the vapor.
 
beno said:
Incorrect. Much cheaper in fact.

List: $3483.32

MUD: $2800.00

:)

Cheaper than a Supercharger.

Even better @ 2,800 its time to blow my s*** up so I have justification to buy a new SB from u
 
Well, I have been testing my jb weld repair. Last weekend I drove the kids up the Gold Lake 4x4 camp (near Greyeagle) and then drove the Snake Lake Trail clockwise (the hard direction). A day later, after returning to the Bay Area, I hitched on the 3k lb tent trailer and filled the roof rack with bikes and kayaks and did a trip up to Coloma and back. So far, so good.
 
As stated, it's a solid stable block and a low stressed tractor motor. I suspect you're good for years of motoring if you keep fresh fluids in it, and maintain the cooling system well.

DougM
 
What, exactly, was the procedure used in the application of the JB Weld? I've never heard of this method before.
 
What, exactly, was the procedure used in the application of the JB Weld? I've never heard of this method before.
Clean/scrape the block really well, remove all the rust/carbon/gunk from the pitted/etched areas. scrub clean with brake cleaner 3x. Use a razor blade as a "putty knife" to skim the epoxy over the low spots. After it cured I very gently used a flat file diagonally across the block and a sanding block to smooth it out. Rags were stuffed in the cylinders and water jackets and any part that grit might get into. Afterwards, I blew it out with compressed air and I wiped everything down real well. Like I said before, just trying to buy some time before I invest in a short block. I do know this is not as good as a resurfaced block or a new block but I do believe it is better than the damaged block that still lasted quite a while even with an inferior gasket. We will see how much time this buys.
 
The old school way of repairing minor block deck defects without milling is to braze over the defect and then draw file it flat. Fast, cheap and permanent.
 

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