Gonna swap transmissions… need advice. (2 Viewers)

[REZARF]

I’m going to swap my transmission (99 with 386k mikes) as shes making noise and grumbling and LOUD. Still shifts smooth, go figure.


I found a transmission from another 99 with 170k and I’m going to swap them here asap.

Anyone been down this road? Any tips?

I’m most interested in “while you’re in there” like swapping the rear main seal/bearing, new gaskets and anything else that should be on hand before diving in?

I’m also wondering if a transmission jack ( like the harbor freight one) for reinstallation is worth the $100. Even for a one time job?

 

[nissanh]

Get the rear main seal done. Inspect for any cracks on the flex plate. Check the transmission moount, best to replace with oem. Yes, a transmission jack is well worth if you are doing the trans swap by your self. You can also buy bushings for the transfercase shift lever, there are few bushings so check partsouq.com parts diagram.

 

[2001LC]

I’m going to swap my transmission (99 with 386k mikes) as shes making noise and grumbling and LOUD. Still shifts smooth, go figure.

If shifting well,run in good temp range and fluid level and condition good. You sure it's makin sounds.
I'd make real sure sounds, aren't from something else:
Flex plate,
Engine misfire
Etc..
Exhaust.

 

[REZARF]

If shifting well,run in good temp range and fluid level and condition good. You sure it's makin sounds.
I'd make real sure sounds, aren't from something else:
Flex plate,
Engine misfire
Etc..
Exhaust.

Yeah, I am stumped. Imagine from 2500-3000rpm everything normal sounding under the hood gets loud... like a rushing wind sound... like hitting a huge puddle in the wheel well sound, it is hard to describe. To me it sounds like it is behind the dash cluster. I have a friend listening to it tomorrow with me. I am stumped.

Man, I hope I am wrong but I can't figure out what else it would be.

Fluid is swapped with toyota OEM juice (drain/fill) each oil change.
Temps are good.
Fluid level is good. Need to check at proper temp but the dip stick reads correctly at cold and hot temps.

Trying to decide if I swap as much fluid as possible or even get a flush? I'd assume if I pull the line for the tranny cooler I could get a ton more pumped out? Thanks in advance for any other advice.

 

[REZARF]

I'll try to shoot a video.

 

[Marshmallow]

Check fan clutch - mine got super loud in cold weather and it wouldn’t freewheel at all at -20C.

 

[Malleus]

If you're really going to swap the transmission out, install the transfer case onto the transmission before you install the transmission onto the engine. Much easier. I made do with a floor jack and removed the spinny cradle thing; it was replaced with a piece of 3/4" plywood, about 4x6 inches. I was not impressed with any tranmission jack under $500.

You will need to remove the driver's side running board (if it's there) and the CAT, in order to access the cooler line fittings. Order new exhaust flange nuts and bolts.

 

[2001LC]

Yeah, I am stumped. Imagine from 2500-3000rpm everything normal sounding under the hood gets loud... like a rushing wind sound... like hitting a huge puddle in the wheel well sound, it is hard to describe. To me it sounds like it is behind the dash cluster. I have a friend listening to it tomorrow with me. I am stumped.

Man, I hope I am wrong but I can't figure out what else it would be.

Fluid is swapped with toyota OEM juice (drain/fill) each oil change.
Temps are good.
Fluid level is good. Need to check at proper temp but the dip stick reads correctly at cold and hot temps.

Trying to decide if I swap as much fluid as possible or even get a flush? I'd assume if I pull the line for the tranny cooler I could get a ton more pumped out? Thanks in advance for any other advice.

First, I doubt AT your issue. But I would only do full 12 qts flush of AT Fluid. I'd use Mobil 1 MV synthetic ATF in 98-02 100 series only. Either use tech stream (best) or IR gun (held 3" from center of AT pan, read a few degrees lower than actual), set level after shifting through all gear, in "P" idling with AT fluid temp between 158-176F.

A bad transmission. May slip between gears. May not even producer motion. May not shift to all gears. May run very hot. May set off dash AT light. Many of this, just need a good flush.

Cracked flex plate is generally hear and felt as vibration an rattle. This are not common, and general after a certain type of service in the vehicle past. Often times a misfiring cylinder, is though to be a cracked flex plate.

Misfire don't always set off a CEL. These are bit hard to detect, without tech stream.

You may have one of more more typical issues. For me identifying many, are easy. But I look at these everyday and have more many years.

Test fan clutch:
Engine cold and off, spin fan. It should have a little resistance, first few spins. Then spin with less resistance. Start cold engine, fan blades can't be stopped and has high wind turbo sound. ~90 seconds later, can be stopped. After full warm up when engine coolant temp (ECT) exceeds ~190F fan blades can't be stopped and has high wind turbo sound. I use water pressure to stop fan blade as I wash radiator fins.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

Check Fan bracket.
Remove fan belt, check that FB spins without sound and or no play.
Really bad, they sometimes wobble.


Pulleys fan belt.
Tensioner & Idler pulleys going bad Toyota 07 100 series - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uImUAoh2q-o&t=13s

Brake master

Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.

First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...

forum.ih8mud.com

Spark plug

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

CAT shields bolts often fail/rust. Then shields may rattle. We hear this more at idle in D sitting a red light. Also, we get get "D" vib, which is related to engine turn and mounts.

Additionally time belt pulleys and or water pump, should be inspected. First step is checking all above. Then if unusual sounds still heard in front of engine. Remove fan belt. start engine. See if those sound still present. This "may" then warrant deeper T-belt area inspection.

Also power steering pump (Vane) need considering.

 

[REZARF]

Wow, thanks for taking the time @2001LC

I really appreciate it. I agree if the transmission is shifting fine I can’t imagine there’s much wrong with it.

I’ll continue to knock out your suggestions.

 

[2001LC]

Wow, thanks for taking the time @2001LC

I really appreciate it. I agree if the transmission is shifting fine I can’t imagine there’s much wrong with it.

I’ll continue to knock out your suggestions.

Good luck.

When making video, pause on areas. Like fan belt area. Hold steady for awhile on Fan clutch, Fan bracket, Pulley's, brake master res, etc.. So they can be studied. Best, as the sound produced. Some make videos, constantly moving all over the place. They're, for the most part useless.

 

[REZARF]

Good luck.

When making video, pause on areas. Like fan belt area. Hold steady for awhile on Fan clutch, Fan bracket, Pulley's, brake master res, etc.. So they can be studied. Best, as the sound produced. Some make videos, constantly moving all over the place. They're, for the most part useless.

Looks like the fan clutch is going out. It is out of balance and once up to operating temps it locked up. I could move it barely when cold, and I could hear the bearing squeaking (ever so slightly). It was clearly out of balance. I'll start there as the sound is most like a rushing wind noise.

Thanks again for the help @2001LC and everyone who chimed in.

I'll keep the thread updated.