Transmission service advice needed

[baltistyle]

The myth continues. A transmission shop may not want to take the work because the customer comes back and blames them when the real issue is that the transmission was already failing internally. A "specialty" shop that does a power flush or reverse flush may also lodge debris in solenoids or ports. Unfortunately, the myth of lifetime fluids started around when the truck was built, so many people continue to under maintain their cars even though we now know we must often change our fluids more often than recommended, especially on modern gdi vehicles.

These threads are what make forums so valuable. Dispel the myths, and maintain your vehicles to last. The info 2001lc posts is invaluable and coming from a pro that sees and works on these trucks every day

Op, for what's its worth, on the first hundred I had, the fluid had almost no color left, 200k and no issues. Once changed, the shifts remained smooth as before. It was a 2000 "known" for tranny issues....but none yet, and that truck is running 100k later, smooth as butter. Same results on an 06 with even more mileage.

 

[2001LC]

These aren't Honda Automatic Transmissions (A/T), which they darn not flush.

I've flush 100 series A/T, with up to ~400K and 25 year old. If a 100 series, A/T fails, after a proper full 12qt. flush. It was going to fail regardless. Better to find out now, than 500 miles from nowhere. But, I can honestly say: I've had nothing but good result.

Worst I've seen in a few. Is where, the AT fluid temp comes up very quickly and hard to keep down, during level setting procedure. Those A/T's, have not been well cared for. But even those, have performed better, after a full 12qt. flush. The best A/T, are hard to get ATF up to level checking temp.

Notice: All 04-07 AT were underfilled at the factory (see TSB).
98-03, set level with A/T oil temp #1 at 158F to 176f. When using a full synthetic, set as close to the lower temp of 158F, is best.
04-07, set level with A/T #1 oil temp at 97f to 115f. When using a full synthetic, set as close to the lower temp of 97F, is best.

Toyota TSB, lower the A/T fluid temp in 04-07, due to factory underfilling them.
Tech stream. Note; 06-07 display more data point.

OBDmxII displays, wirelessly on iphone. Very handy data readings, while under vehicle in the 04-up, while pulling A/T level check plug.

TSB for 2004-08

04-07 DO NOT USE the FSM dash A/T oil temp light flashing procedure, in 2004 -07. Which is based on higher temp. Which will result in underfilling A/T

I would, use Mobil 1 in all, if they'd rate for Toy IV or WS. But to date, Mobil 1 has not.

I started using Mobil (one shelf below Mobil 1) MV (multi vehicle) full synthetic ATF, a few years ago. When, Mobil reformulated from a blended to full synthetic and rated for Toy II, III, IV & WS.

Mobil 1, does have and ATF rated for Toy WS. But it is not sold in the USA.

BTW: Toyota & Exxon Mobil. Built a joint refinery in Japan, years ago. See: back of Toyota WS ATF bottle. It states: Manufactured by Exxon Mobil.

Cooling systems:

We also need proper operating cooling system. Which starts with radiator fins. A/T oil cooler is smallest radiator of the 3 (A/T oil cooler, AC condenser, engine radiator). Cleaning bugs, feathers, cottonwood, dust, weeds, etc. form the fins is important. I've washed out, shovels full of debris from the fins. Read your Owner's manual!

Over the years I've change washing procedure a bit. Number one, I don't spray directly on alternator, serp belt of near pulleys or wire housing or wire housing blocks or spark plug coils or PCV grommet.
I'm careful around spark plug coils, top seal. These seals, keep water and dust out of spark plug tube. But often, old rubber seals, have not been replaced. The rubber seals shrink with time and may not seal well. Best we don't wash dust/sand into spark plug tubes. Also, spark plugs masy walked out (loose). Water can enter cylinders.

Same goes for the rubber grommet of PCV valve in 98-02 4.7L. Old grommet hardens and shrinks. We then may get water & dust into engine oil.

I begin wash, when radiator cold or cool (best), but can be done hot provided engine running. After rinsing, then spraying soap through fins, then rainsing again. I start and wash top of engine and continue washing radiators.

While engine running, I test fan clutch: Can't stop cold fan blade/clutch for ~2 minutes. Once warm, can stop fan/clutch. Once coil of fan clutch hot from radiated heat of radiators, can not stop fan clutch) with water pressure. I continue cleans radiator from the 3 direction (outside, inside and front bottom) stopping fan while engine runs. I also wash front of fan clutch, to clean dust from it and the coil that regulates clutch fluid.

I also like to, parked with front end higher than rear. So water flow back to drain in engine valley and off intake manifolds' gaskets seal area to back. I also blow, this area with my HP air pistol while wet. Tip: Check engine valley, for nest. Nest will clog engine valley drains. I listen closely for RPM change, while washing top of engine. Which change means a vacuum leak. Which mat be the intake manifold gasket. I've found where intake manifold bolts, not torqued down properly and or gasket not replaced during services. It is number one reason I wash top of engine, with engine running.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[FrankieJoe14]

Only thing I will say about this is be EXTREMELY careful with the trans pan drain plug. It strips easily. Do NOT over torque. FSM shows 15 ft-lb but I usually go by feel with a new crush gasket.

 

[2001LC]

Only thing I will say about this is be EXTREMELY careful with the trans pan drain plug. It strips easily. Do NOT over torque. FSM shows 15 ft-lb but I usually go by feel with a new crush gasket.

Good advise.

Personnel I use a digital torque wrench and new OEM gasket/washer, every time. My torque wrenches are so used, they sit on top of my tool box. They are my most used tools. Those and my paint marking pen, marking every bolt & nut once torqued.

If drain plug threads, found damaged. Replace the drain plug. It's threads are softer, then pan threads. So pans threads, are typically okay

 

[nissanh]

I use the specified torque for all nuts and bolts on any of my car except drain and fill bolts on diffs, oil pans and valve covr bolts... Just hand snug and a little bit more. Use wrachets/wrenches no more than 6 to 8 inches long.